Rubha Rèidh: a dead end that’s tall, light and handsome

Mariners and ship wreckers know it. Cyclists in a gale know it. Parents deep in the hell of Arewenearlythereyet? know it.

Never underestimate the value of a welcoming light.

Or in this specific case, 520,000 candle power of locomotive headlamps, visible for up to 27 miles across the Minch in north-west Scotland.

It’s a long, hard cycle ride to Rubha Reidh (aka Rubh Re, Rua Reidh) with little respite from the elements, so you’d be well advised* to time your arrival for dusk. Doing so ups your chances of catching either a fiery sunset or glimpses of that hypnotic, encouraging light, flashing every 15 seconds to say the pain’s almost over.
(* In winter there’s little alternative.)



Twelve miles of dead end start where you turn west off the A832 at Gairloch’s combined police station and kids’ playpark, just after the phonebox that (like your mobile phone) probably doesn’t work.
Waves crash near the disused Rubha Reidh lighthouse jetty

A calm day at the lighthouse jetty


From there, a quiet coast road with passing-places passes places such as Little Sand and Big Sand before depositing you at Melvaig. (Eyes left for the dead end’s local, the Melvaig Inn.)
Car drivers are requested kindly to park at the end of the village but it’s onward for pedallers like me.

Three miles to go and the road turns private and gets narrower and more precipitous. There’s just one destination left now: the stunningly located century-old Rubh Re lighthouse. The road that serves it (it goes nowhere else) was built well after the light. For five decades the keepers relied upon boat access – on a headland dangerous enough to merit having a lighthouse.

Getting there
Where: Grid reference NG740918, OS Landranger sheet 19
How: the nearest train station is 45 miles away at Achnasheen on the Inverness–Kyle of Lochalsh line. Some days of the week, you can connect there with a bus from Inverness to Gairloch.
Cyclists bear in mind that if a headwind picks up you may well be blown to a stop. Don’t be put off a winter visit though; all these pictures are from a November cycle trip.

What’s actually to do there
You’re surrounded by delightfully remote possibilities.

  • Watch Skye and the sky but not Sky.
  • Share tales with any other folk who’ve battled the elements to be there.
  • Imagine life there before the road. Explore round the lighthouse buildings (access is only for visitors staying) and the old jetty used to construct and access them for fifty years.
  • Get away from those 520,000 candles and on a clear (non-summer) night you’re in a fine spot to see any northern lights.

Practicalities
You can stay in the lighthouse’s former residential block and the owners provide half board meals and packed lunches. Apart from the Melvaig Inn, all other services – shops, bank and an SYHA hostel – are in/near Gairloch.
Pick the brains of locals for whale watching opportunities and other wildlife/outdoor activities.
Pronunciation: Fluent Gaelic speakers please advise, but I’d go for silent bh and dh. “Rubha Reidh” sort of rhymes with “rue the day”.

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2 Responses to Rubha Rèidh: a dead end that’s tall, light and handsome

  1. We are the lucky owners of this dead end! Well done on the pronunciation – the nearest we can get to writing it down phonetically is roo-a-ray. It means ‘smooth point’ – so called because of the way the rocks slope down into the sea. By the way, it flashes 4 times every 15 seconds. And we welcome cyclists to stay at our B&B – there is an outbuilding where you can keep your bike overnight and just in case it rains, we have a great drying room 🙂 Best wishes, Tracy & Roger

    • Ian says:

      Thanks for dropping by here. Six years after my original visit, it’s good to hear Rubha Reidh’s still looking after folk on two wheels.

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