On my recent trip to Scotland, nothing surprised me more than Royal Dornoch. I’ve previously talked about how most American golfers traveling to Scotland overlook The Highlands, but by itself, Royal Dornoch is worth the trip.
Less than an hour away from Inverness and the world-famous Loch Ness, the town of Dornoch provides an authentic Scottish Highlands experience. The area is a treasure trove of charming villages, spectacular golf courses, and whiskey distilleries. I highly recommend spending at least two nights in the Highlands; you have several world-class golf courses such as Castle Stuart, Nairn, Wick, and of course, Royal Dornoch.
Having now played several of the courses in the Highlands, hands-down the Championship Course at Royal Dornoch is by far, my favorite. With more character than most, the experience at Royal Dornoch is sure to delight any golfer. To make things better, Royal Dornoch seems to have a sub climate; it always seems to be a little warmer and less wet. No one can explain it, but in Scotland, the weather is a roll of the dice, but the odds tend to be slightly in your favor when playing Royal Dornoch.
The Lore of Royal Dornoch
The Championship Course at Royal Dornoch was coined the “King of Scottish links courses” by Golf International, and I couldn’t agree more. Being a links course design by Old Tom Morris, it doesn’t get much better than this!
Speaking of legends, who knows links golf better than Tom Watson? Perhaps the best links golf player of all-time and undoubtedly the best American links player is an honorary member at Royal Dornoch. He was so obsessed with the course he decided 18 holes wasn’t enough and went out and played another 18, announcing afterward it was the most fun he had ever had on a golf course.
Where Donald Ross Cut His Teeth
If Old Tom Morris and Tom Watson aren’t enough, Donald Ross was born just down the street, no really, he was born on St. Gilbert Street in Dornoch. Ross grew up playing golf at Royal Dornoch and was the first golf professional at the club later going on to take what he had learned at Dornoch to become one of the finest golf architects in the world.
The Championship Course Highlights
The round starts with a rather straightforward short par-4 playing at only 331 yards. The tee is right in front of the clubhouse, and you typically have a small crowd watching your opening shot. Calm the nerves and try to bomb one down the fairway, that’s what I did! Beware of danger on the greens, the first hole is straightforward, but as you approach the green, you’ll get your first taste of the crowned greens. Miss anywhere but short and you’re likely to be chipping or looking down the barrel of a 3-putt.
The first magical moment at Dornoch comes as you make your way from the 2nd green to the 3rd tee. You’ll slide through a narrow path, and as the gorse opens up, you’ll see your first panoramic view of the course.
The sixth is a little par-3 that packs a punch; the green is narrow and small with two bunkers left of the green and a massive slope on the right side of the green. If you don’t hit the green, you’re screwed!
If you can make par, it makes the walk to 7th that much sweeter. As you climb the hill you arrive at one of the best golf views in the world, the course is laid out in front of you with the Dornoch Firth in the background. By the time you tee off on the 7th, I guarantee you’ll be thankful you made the trip!
The back nine starts the way home with a short but tricky par-3, too short and you’re in a bunker, too long, and you’re off the green. Get the distance right, and throw the ball high into the air and hope you hit the number!
I haven’t mentioned a par-5, The Championship Course is a par-70 featuring only two par-5s (9th & 12th). The 12th was one of my favorite holes on the course; a dogleg left that plays every bit of 535 yards. The 12th is a 3-shot hole, be sure to avoid laying up on the left side, the gorse and dunes will block any view of the green for your approach.
Gun to my head, if I had to pick the signature hole, it would be the 14th. One of my favorite golf course architects, Tom Doak, calls it “one of the greatest holes in the game.” The 14th plays 445 yards and is rated as the hardest hole on the course, so make sure you’re getting a stroke from your partner. Like most holes at Royal Dornoch, you will be rewarded more with a right to left ball flight versus a fade. Aim too far to the right you’ll end up in thick grass with no shot into the green. If you attack the left side off the tee, you’ll have a great look at the green, and then an unusually flat green awaits giving a chance to make birdie.
Royal Dornoch Golf Club
Tom Watson summed up the experience at Royal Dornoch best; it’s just a lot of fun. You’re in Scotland, the home of golf and playing links golf at its best!
Having been home for several months now, I can genuinely say the memories from Royal Dornoch are amongst the best from the trip and are still fresh in my mind. If I were in the Highlands and could only play one course, it would be The Championship Course at Royal Dornoch. I’m sitting at home with only two regrets. One, I wish I had allocated enough time to play a second round, experience is the best teacher, and I would have loved to have given Royal Dornoch another go. Second, I wish I would have bought some gear from the pro shop. I love the Royal Dornoch logo, and it’s easily amongst the best course logos out there, my closet will never forgive me.
The staff at Royal Dornoch, are top-notch and love to welcome visitors and show-off their fabulous links. Special thanks to Neil Hampton, the General Manager at Royal Dornoch. Neil not only opened the doors for my daughter and me but made sure we had everything we needed after Aer Lingus lost our golf gear on the flight over from Dublin to Edinburgh. There aren’t too many clubs that I visit and walk away wishing I was a member, but Royal Dornoch is at the top of the list.
Rob Spellman, is an avid golfer and publisher of Golf Aficionado Magazine, he is a member of the Golf Writers Association of America and the Golf Travel Writers of America.