I only achieve simplicity with enormous effort.
~Clarice Lispector
This is the final post about our trip in May. After leaving South Dakota, we headed for another favorite – the Sandhills of Nebraska and the Samuel R. McKelvie National Forest (still seems surprising to find a national forest in the sandhills!). We had camped in this area before and decided to take a couple of side “roads” (sandy two-rutted trails through the grasslands) to check them out for a possible new camping spot. After driving a bit, we decided we preferred the scenery at our previous campsite and headed that way.
-A type of beardtongue (Penstemon sp.) growing in the grasslands of the Sandhills (click photos to enlarge)
-One of the prairie wildflowers known as puccoon (Lithospermum sp.). The common name comes from the Powhatan word, poughkone, which refers to the dye produced from the roots. The genus names translates to “rock seed” and refers to the very hard seeds of this plant.
As always, we heard and saw a lot of birds as we traversed the open grasslands, especially Grasshopper Sparrows. They were seemingly everywhere, singing their buzzy songs.
-A Grasshopper Sparrow putting what seems like a lot of effort into its song which is more like an insect-like buzz than a bird sound
-A new bird for us was the Upland Sandpiper. When we looked it up in our online field guide it said… “A distinctive sandpiper found in areas with short grass, frequently seen perched on fence posts”. Yup, that’s it. Melissa wrote in her journal that these birds “have the best song, like Prairie Warblers, but more musical and with a scream at the end!”. Listen here…one reference says the song ends in a “wolf whistle” (photo by Melissa Dowland)
-A panorama from our campsite in the Sandhills. A highlight was the next morning, I looked out and saw three Pronghorn staring at us from several hundred yards away. It was great to see such an iconic open grasslands animal in this habitat. Now, if only Bison could return…
-Not your typical national forest dispersed campsite
-Looking back at camp from our hike into the grasslands that surrounded us
-A windmill and stock tank for providing water for cattle grazing on the public lands. We walked over to take a look and found a surprise…
-This beautiful Ornate Box Turtle had somehow climbed into the stock tank (from the overhanging shrub?), but had no chance of getting out and was floating in the water. I gently placed it on the ground and it scurried away through the grass. Populations are declining in its range due to habitat loss and fragmentation. We helped another as it was crossing a road the next day.
From McKelvie, we traveled a short distance to re-visit another wildlife refuge, Valentine NWR. The wind was gusting so many of the birds were sheltering in the many roadside thickets. Yellow Warblers and Orchard Orioles were abundant, but tough to photograph in the shrubs. I was standing near some willow trees trying to get a photograph of an oriole when I saw a Common Nighthawk swirling in the wind and dropping into the tree next to me.
-A Common Nighthawk with its distinctive white patches on the wings. This is probably an adult male due to the white tail band and white throat patch, both of which are usually lacking or indistinct on adult females
The name is a bit misleading, as it seems, due to population declines, this species is no longer that common over much of its range (although we did see and hear them feeding on aerial insects at sunset at a couple of our campsites). And it is most active at dawn and dusk (not at night) and is not related to hawks, but rather is a type of nightjar related to birds such as Whip-poor-wills and Chucks-will’s-widows.
-The Common Nighthawk landed on a tree branch, aligning itself with the length of the branch (most birds sit perpendicular to a branch). Its cryptic coloration really helps it blend in.
On our last visit to this refuge we had seen some Sharp-tailed Grouse scooting across one of the dirt roads. They had quickly vanished into the grasses and brush as we had approached. On this trip, refuge staff had recently conducted prescribed burns, and as we drove along we spotted a grouse hiding at the base of some burned shrubs right next to the road. These birds are a bit larger than our Ruffed Grouse that we have here in the East.
-A Sharp-tailed Grouse trying to hide in habitat recently burned
After Nebraska, we pointed the truck to familiar sites on our long drive home – Brickyard Hill Conservation Area in Missouri and Shawnee National Forest in Illinois. These areas have been reliable spots for us on each trip out west, so no need to change now.
-Our campsite at Brickyard Hill Conservation Area. One big plus is that it is near Loess Bluffs NWR, which we visited the next morning on our way south.
Loess Bluffs NWR is a favorite stop on our westward trips as it is conveniently located along I-29 in Missouri, a route we often take coming or going on these truck adventures. The refuge has an excellent auto tour road that passes through numerous habitat types. Unfortunately, on this visit about half of the road was closed for repairs, so we had a shortened stay. Still, birds were numerous (but most were not very cooperative for images).
-An Eastern Wood-peewee was one of the few birds that posed for us (photo by Melissa Dowland)
-A male Dickcissel singing. Males do not assist with the care of young but rather spend the breeding season vigorously defending their territories. Dickcissels are somewhat solitary on the breeding grounds but gather in huge flocks (sometimes numbering in the millions) on their wintering grounds in Venezuela.
Our final night was spent dispersed camping near Jackson Falls in Shawnee NF. Lots of bird activity at sunrise with the sounds of Great-crested Flycatchers, Wood Thrushes, Kentucky Warblers, and Ovenbirds floating through the trees. We made a stop in Asheville for dinner at 7 Clans Brewing and had dinner from the best food truck I have ever sampled – The Garden. We highly recommend both venues.
That last day is always a long one – about 11 hours plus the dinner stop. We got home well after dark but still could see the adequate rains in our absence had transformed our yard into a jungle. It was another glorious adventure, covering 5656 miles in 18 days. The bird life was incredible as was the scenery. And Melissa worked her navigating magic again finding us wonderful remote dispersed sites and snagging some excellent campground locations. Until next time, I’ll leave you with a map of our travels…(ignore the letter codes).
-Our route from May 9 – May 26, 2023 (the lower leg was on the way out) – 5656 miles