Archival copy: for current recommendations see http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu or your local extension office.
HS1
Sapodilla Growing in the Florida Home Landscape1
Carlos F. Balerdi, Jonathan H. Crane, and Ian Maguire2
Scientific name: Manilkara zapota
Common names: English - naseberry, chikoo,
chiku, dilly. Spanish - chicle, chicozapote, níspero,
zapote, zapotillo.
Scientific name synonyms: Manilkara achras,
Achras sapota, A. zapota, Sapota achras
Family: Sapotaceae
Relatives in same family: mamey sapote,
canistel, caimito, lucumo, green sapote, abiu, satin
leaf.
Origin: Mexico (Yucatan Peninsula) and
Central America
Distribution: The U.S., Caribbean, Central and
South America, Asia, India, Sri Lanka, The
Philippines, Australia, New Zealand, and South
Africa.
Importance: Sapodillas are extensively planted
and consumed locally in Mexico, Central America,
the Caribbean, India and some Asiatic countries.
Invasive potential: Sapodilla has been assessed
by the IFAS Invasive Plants Working Group as
invasive in south and central Florida and is not
recommended by IFAS for planting. For more
information see: Fox, A.M., D.R. Gordon, J.A.
Dusky, L. Tyson, and R.K. Stocker (2005) IFAS
Assessment of the Status of Non-Native Plants in
Florida's Natural Areas [Cited from the internet (6
Jan., 2006) at
http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/assessment.html].
Description
Tree
Sapodilla trees are medium to large trees with a
pyramidal to rounded canopy. These long-lived trees
grow slowly but after many years, may reach 60 to
100 ft in height. Sapodilla trees are well adapted to
subtropical and tropical climates. The tree has
ornamental value and may be used for landscaping.
Branches are horizontal or drooping. A milky latex
exudes from all tree parts. This latex is known as
chicle and was used to make chewing gum.
1. This document is Fact Sheet HS-1, one of a series of the Horticultural Sciences Department, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and
Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida. Publication date, May 1973; minor revision, April 1994 and; major revisions November 2000 and October
2005. Please visit the EDIS web site at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
2. C.F. Balerdi, Professor and Multi-County Tropical Fruit Crop Extension Agent, Miami-Dade County Cooperative Extension Service, Homestead, Florida.
J.H. Crane, Professor and Tropical Fruit Crop Specialist, Tropical Research and Education Center, Homestead, Florida; I. Maguire, Media Artist, Tropical
Research and Education Center, Homestead, Florida.
The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information and
other services only to individuals and institutions that function with non-discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex,
sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions or affiliations. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service,
University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A. & M. University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Larry
Arrington, Dean
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Sapodilla Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
2
Leaves
Climate
The foliage is evergreen. Leaves are 2 to 5 in
(5-20 cm) long, stiff, pointed and clustered at the
ends of shoots. The leaves are pinkish when newly
emerged and light green to dark green at maturity.
Sapodillas are adapted to tropical and warm
sub-tropical climates. Trees are well adapted to south
Florida and to the coastal areas of Florida as far north
as Tampa and Merritt Island.
Inflorescence (Flowers)
Flowers are borne singly or in clusters in leaf
axils near the tips of branches. Flowers are small,
bisexual, off-white, bell-shaped, and measure about
3/8 -inch (9.5 mm) in diameter.
Fruit
The fruit is a berry with a scurfy brown peel.
Fruit may be round to oval-shaped or conical, 2 to 4
inches (5-10 cm) in diameter and weigh 2.6 oz to 2.2
lbs (75 to 1000 g). The pulp is light brown, brownish
yellow to reddish brown, with a texture varying from
gritty to smooth. The pulp has a sweet to very sweet
(19-24oBrix), pleasant flavor. Seed number varies
from 0 to 12. Seeds are dark brown to black, smooth,
flattened, shiny, and 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) long.
When fruit reaches maximum size, it may be
picked and allowed to ripen off the tree. From
experience, one can judge maturity of fruit of a
particular variety or selection by its size and
appearance.
Season of Bearing
In Florida, trees mainly bear from May to
September but fruit may mature throughout the
year.
Varieties
Seeds should not be used for producing new trees
as it takes a long time for trees to begin production
and there is also a lot of variability among seedling
trees. There have been a number of new cultivars
developed in Florida, India, the Philippines, Mexico
and Venezuela. Table 1 shows a list of varieties and
some of their characteristics. Varieties with good
horticultural characteristics should have high yield,
moderately large to large fruit, and a smooth, sweet
and aromatic pulp with little or no grittiness.
Environmental Stress Tolerance
Drought Stress
Young sapodilla trees have been observed to
defoliate or decline due to lack of water; therefore
young trees should be watered periodically during dry
periods. Mature sapodilla trees are tolerant of dry
soil conditions. However, for optimum fruit
production and quality, periodic irrigation during
long dry periods is recommended from flowering
through harvest. In the home landscape, well
established sapodilla trees generally do not require
regular watering to produce satisfactorily.
Flood Stress
Sapodilla has been observed to be moderately
tolerant of excessively wet or flooded soil conditions.
However, prolonged excessively wet or flooded soil
conditions may reduce tree growth and crop yields.
Cold Stress
Young sapodilla trees may be severely damaged
or killed at 30 to 32°F (-1 to 0°C) or below but
mature trees may withstand down to about 26°F
(-3°C) for a few hours without major damage.
Wind Stress
Sapodilla trees are tolerant of windy conditions
and young trees generally do not have a problem with
establishment on windy sites. Mature trees should be
limited to 12 to 15 ft (3.7-4.6 m) in height to help
reduce the chances of toppling due to hurricane force
winds.
Salt Stress
Sapodillas grow well near the seashore,
indicating a good tolerance to sea salt spray. Their
tolerance to saline soils and irrigation water is not
known. Typical symptoms of salt stress include
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Sapodilla Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
marginal and tip necrosis of leaves, leaf browning and
drop, stem dieback, and tree death.
3
may not grow normally or produce much fruit due to
shading.
Propagation
Soils
Although seeds can be used for propagation and
are used for selection of superior types, they should
not be used for home plantings. Marcottage (air
layering) has not been an effective propagation
method. Side veneer and cleft grafting on to seedling
sapodilla rootstock are the most common grafting
methods. Chip budding can also be used. Scions or
bud sticks are chosen from young terminal shoots.
Cover the grafted scions completely with grafting
tape. The best time to graft is late summer and early
fall.
Sapodillas are well adapted to a wide range of
soils but grow best in well-drained, light soils. Trees
are especially well adapted to the rocky, highly
calcareous soils of south Florida. Although sapodilla
trees are moderately tolerant of occasional flooding
or excessively wet soil conditions, they will not
perform well in poorly drained soils.
Top working undesirable mature sapodilla trees
may be accomplished by cutting trees back to a
3-ft-height (1-m) stump, white washing the entire
stump and then veneer-grafting several new shoots
when they reach 1/2 inch (13 mm) in diameter or
larger.
Production
Seedling trees usually begin bearing in 6 to 7
years or more. Grafted trees may begin to bear in the
2nd to 4th year after planting. After 10 years, a good
cultivar may bear 150 to 400 pounds (45-180 kg) of
fruit per year. This yield may keep increasing until
about the twelfth to fifteenth year after planting
depending on plant size and cultural practices.
Isolated sapodilla trees may not be productive
because some sapodilla cultivars are
self-incompatible. In self-incompatible cultivars the
flowers require cross-pollination by another sapodilla
seedling or variety in order to produce fruit. Other
varieties may not require cross-pollination but
produce more fruit when cross-pollinated.
Spacing
Although sapodillas grow slowly, trees that are
not pruned eventually need a lot of space because
they will develop a large canopy. Sapodilla trees in
the home landscape should be planted 25 ft (7.6 m) or
more feet away from the nearest tree and/or structure.
Trees planted too close to other trees or structures
Planting a Sapodilla Tree
Properly planting a sapodilla tree is one of the
most important steps in successfully establishing and
growing a strong, productive tree. The first step is to
choose a healthy nursery tree. Commonly, nursery
sapodilla trees are grown in 3-gallon (11-liters)
containers and trees stand 2 to 4 ft (0.9-1.2 m) from
the soil media. Large trees in smaller containers
should be avoided as the root system may be "root
bound." This means all the available space in the
container has been filled with roots to the point that
the tap root is growing along the edge of the
container in a circular fashion. Root bound root
systems may not grow properly once planted in the
ground.
Inspect the tree for insect pests and diseases and
inspect the trunk of the tree for wounds and
constrictions. Select a healthy tree and water it
regularly in preparation for planting in the ground.
Site Selection
In general, sapodilla trees should be planted in
full sun for best growth and fruit production. Select a
part of the landscape away from other trees, buildings
and structures, and power lines. Remember sapodilla
trees can become very large if not pruned to contain
their size. Select the warmest area of the landscape
that does not flood (or remain wet) after typical
summer rainfall events.
Planting in Sandy Soil
Many areas in Florida have sandy soil. Remove
a 3- to 10-ft (0.9- to 3.1-m) diameter ring of grass
sod. Dig a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times
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Sapodilla Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
as deep as the container the sapodilla tree has come
in. Making a large hole loosens the soil adjacent to
the new tree, making it easy for the roots to expand
into the adjacent soil. It is not necessary to apply
fertilizer, topsoil, or compost to the hole. In fact,
placing topsoil or compost in the hole first and then
planting on top of it is not desirable. If you wish to
add topsoil or compost to the native soil, mix it with
the soil excavated from making the hole in no more
than a 50-50 ratio.
Backfill the hole with some of the native soil
removed to make the hole. Remove the tree from the
container and place it in the hole so that the top of the
soil media in the container is level with or slightly
above the surrounding soil level. Fill soil in around
the tree roots and tamp slightly to remove air pockets.
Immediately water the soil around the tree and tree
roots. Staking the tree with a wooden or bamboo
stake is optional. However, do not use wire or nylon
rope to tie the tree to the stake as they may eventually
damage the tree trunk as it grows. Use a cotton or
natural fiber string that will degrade slowly.
Planting in Rockland Soil
Many areas in Miami-Dade County have a very
shallow soil and several inches below the soil surface
is a hard calcareous bedrock. Remove a 3- to 10-ft
(0.9- to 3.1-m) diameter ring of grass sod. Make a
hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times as deep as
the container the sapodilla tree has come in. To dig a
hole there are several options. Use a pick and digging
bar to break up the rock or contract with a company
that has augering equipment or a backhoe. Plant as
described in the previous section.
Planting on a Mound
Many areas in Florida are within 7 ft (2.1 m) or
so of the water table and experience occasional
flooding after heavy rainfall events. To improve plant
survival consider planting fruit trees on a 2- to 3-ft
(0.6- to 0.9-m) high by 4- to 10-ft (1.2- to 3.1-m)
diameter mound of native soil.
After the mound is made, dig a hole 3 to 4 times
the diameter and 3 times as deep as the container the
sapodilla tree has come in. In areas where the
bedrock nearly comes to the surface (rockland soil)
4
follow the recommendations for the previous section.
In areas with sandy soil follow the recommendations
from the section on planting in sandy soil.
If there is a potential for flooding, plant the tree
on a large hill or mound made up of native soil, 2 to 3
ft high (0.6 to 0.9 m) by 4 to 6 ft diameter (1.2 to 1.8
m).
Care of Sapodilla Trees in the Home
Landscape
A calendar outlining the month-to-month
cultural practices for sapodilla is shown in Table 2.
Fertilizer
Sapodilla is not demanding in its fertilizer
requirements (Table 3). After planting, when new
growth begins, apply 1/4 lb (113 g) of a young tree
fertilizer such as a 6-6-6-2 (%nitrogen-%
phosphate-% potash-% magnesium) with minor
elements with 20 to 30% of the nitrogen from organic
sources. Repeat this every 6 to 8 weeks for the first
year, then gradually increase the amount of fertilizer
to 0.5, 0.75, 1.0 lb (227 g, 341 g, 454 g) as the tree
grows. Use 4 to 6 minor element (nutritional) foliar
sprays per year from April to September.
Sapodilla trees generally do not develop iron
deficiency, even when grown in the rocky,
calcareous, high pH soils of Miami-Dade County. If
iron deficiency symptoms appear (chlorotic leaves
with green veins), apply iron. For trees in acid to
neutral soils apply dry iron sulfate at 0.25 to 1 oz per
tree to the soil 2 to 4 times per year; water the iron
into the ground. In alkaline soils with a high pH,
drench the soil adjacent to the tree trunk with iron
chelate 1 to 2 times per year from June through
September. Table 2 summarizes the fertilizer
recommendations for sapodillas.
For mature trees, 2.5 to 5.0 lbs of fertilizer per
application 2 to 3 times per year is recommended.
The fertilizer mix (NPK) should also include
phosphate (P2O5) and potash (K2O); use a 6-6-6,
8-3-9 or similar material. Use 2 to 3 minor element
(nutritional) foliar sprays per year from April to
September.
Archival copy: for current recommendations see http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu or your local extension office.
Sapodilla Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
Irrigation (Watering)
Newly planted sapodilla trees should be watered
at planting and every other day for the first week or so
and then 1 to 2 times a week for the first couple of
months. During prolonged dry periods (e.g., 5 or
more days of little to no rainfall) newly planted and
young sapodilla trees (first 3 years) should be
watered once a week. Once the rainy season arrives,
irrigation frequency may be reduced or stopped.
Once sapodilla trees are 4 or more years old
watering will be beneficial to plant growth and crop
yields only during very prolonged dry periods during
the year. Mature sapodilla trees do not need frequent
watering and over watering may cause trees to
decline or be unthrifty.
5
Weeds
Weeds compete for water and nutrients. Weeds
may be controlled by herbicide applications of
registered materials, by hand weeding, and/or by
mulching.
Sapodilla Trees and Lawn Care
Sapodilla trees in the home landscape are
susceptible to trunk injury caused by lawn mowers
and weed eaters. Maintain a grass-free area 2 to 5 or
more feet (0.6- to 1.5-m) away from the trunk of the
tree. Never hit the tree trunk with lawn mowing
equipment and never use a weed eater near the tree
trunk. Mechanical damage to the trunk of the tree will
result in weakening the tree and if severe enough can
cause dieback or kill the tree.
Insect Pests
Sapodilla has relatively few insect pests.
Occasionally, a moth (Barnisia myrsusalis) causes
extensive damage to blooms in some years in Florida.
The fruit of some cultivars is susceptible to the
Caribbean fruit fly (Anastrepha suspensa).
Periodically, other pests attack sapodilla, including
the Cuban May beetle (Phyllophaga bruneri), mining
scale (Howardia biclavis), green shield scale
(Pulvinaria psidii), pustule scale (Asterolecanium
pustulans), leafminer (Eucosmophora sp.), and
Conotrachelus sp. beetle. Please contact your local
County Cooperative Extension Service for current
control recommendations.
Diseases
There are no major diseases of sapodillas in
Florida. A leaf rust (Uredo sapotae) causes minor
leaf damage. Other diseases of minor importance
include dry rot (Fusarium solani), septoria leaf spot
(Septoria sp.), fruit rot (Phytophthora palmivora),
phyllosticta leaf spot (Phyllosticta sapoticola),
pestalotia leaf spot (Pestalotia scirrofaciens),
anthracnose (Colletotrichum gloeosporioides), scab
(Elsinoe lepagei), and phomopsis leaf spot
(Phomopsis sp.). Please contact your local County
Cooperative Extension Service for current control
recommendations.
Roots of mature sapodilla trees spread beyond
the drip-line of the tree canopy and heavy fertilization
of the lawn adjacent to sapodilla trees is not
recommended and may reduce fruiting and or fruit
quality. The use of lawn sprinkler systems on a timer
may result in over watering and cause sapodilla trees
to decline. This is because too much water, too often
applied causes root rot.
Mulch
Mulching sapodilla trees in the home landscape
helps retain soil moisture, reduces weed problems
adjacent to the tree trunk, and improves the soil near
the surface. Mulch with a 2- to 6-inch (5- to 15-cm)
layer of bark, wood chips, or similar mulch material.
Keep mulch 8 to 12 inches (20-30 cm) from the
trunk.
Tree training and pruning
Young Trees
The development of a strong limb framework is
important to allow sapodilla trees to carry large crops
of fruit without limb breakage. If the tree is leggy
and lacks lower branches, remove part of the top to
induce lateral bud break on the lower trunk. In
addition, shoot tip removal (1 to 2 inches) of new
shoots of about 3 ft in length, once or twice between
spring and summer will force more branching and
make the tree more compact. Remove any limbs that
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Sapodilla Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
have a narrow crotch angle because these may break
under heavy fruit loads.
Mature Trees
As trees mature, most of the pruning is done to
control tree height and width and to remove damaged
or dead wood. Trees should be kept at a maximum of
about 12- to 15-ft (3.7- to 4.6-m). If the canopy
becomes too dense, removing some inner branches
will help in air circulation and light penetration.
Another pruning objective is the removal of dead,
damaged or diseased branches. Low branches should
not be cut however, unless they touch the soil.
Cultural practices e.g., picking, spraying, and pruning
are easier on small trees.
For mature, very large sapodilla trees in the
home landscape that may pose a risk of damaging
adjacent buildings or trees, we recommend a
professional arborist provide the pruning services.
Make sure the arborist is licensed and has insurance
and knows the local ordinances pertaining to fruit
tree pruning in your area.
Harvest, fruit maturity, ripening, and
storage
For the beginner, fruit maturity is difficult to
judge. Immature fruit may not soften for many days,
may not develop optimum sweetness and flavor, and
may contain pockets of coagulated latex within the
flesh. Fruit picked at optimum maturity usually ripen
in 4 to 10 days. If the time of fruit maturity is
unknown, you may wait until some fruit drop and then
begin to harvest those of similar size. Other
indicators of maturity are fruit size, loss of peel
scurfiness, and a change in skin color from brown to
amber. Another test is to lightly scratch the skin; if it
is tan it can be picked, but if it is green or oozes latex,
the fruit is not fully mature.
Sapodilla trees may have harvestable fruit year
round, though there is a main season for each cultivar
(Table 1). As the season for each cultivar advances,
the ripening time decreases. Ripe fruit may be stored
in the refrigerator.
6
Uses and Nutritional Value
Sapodillas are nutritious and mostly eaten as
fresh fruit (Table 4). Sherbets, milk shakes and ice
cream can be made from fresh pulp. Chicle, the latex
obtained from the bark of the tree, was for many
years the principal ingredient of chewing gum.
Because of their beauty and tolerance to neglect,
sapodilla trees may also be used as an ornamental for
landscaping in south Florida.
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Sapodilla Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
7
Table 1. Sapodilla cultivars in Florida.
Cultivar
name
Country of
origin
Fruit shape
and skin color
Fruit size
Alano
United
States
(Hawaii)
conical to
round, skin
light brown,
smooth
Betawi
Indonesia
Brown
Sugar
United
States
Gonzalez
Philippines
Hasyá
1
3
Pulp color
and
texture
Quality
CFF
2
rating
Yield
Season
S to M, 115-250 g
(4-9 oz)
smooth to
slightly
granular
very good
to
excellent
U
G
Nov.-June
conical
ML, 140-315 g
(5-11 oz)
light
amber yellow,
slightly
granular
very
good,
juicy
U
G
late Dec.
round to ovate,
skin light
brown,
moderately
scurfy
round to oval,
skin very light
brown, slightly
scurfy
S to M, 133-170 g
(4.6-6.0 oz)
brown,
slightly
granular
very
good
M
G to
VG
MaySept.
M,90-260 g (3.1-9.2
oz)
light brown
to brown,
smooth
very good
to
excellent
U
VG
Nov.April
Mexico
oval to slightly
conical, skin
light brown,
moderately
scurfy
ML, 150-365 g
(5-13 oz)
brownish
red
excellent
U
G
Nov.June
Makok
(dwarf)
tree
Thailand
conical, skin
light brown,
slightly scurfy
S, 30-140 g (1-5
oz)
very
good
U
VG
MayNov.
Modello
United
States
elliptic to
ovate, skin
light brown,
moderately
scurfy
M to ML, 227-340 g
(8-12 oz)
light brown
to slightly
greenishred,
smooth
whitish to
tan,
smooth
good
L
F
Feb.-May
Molix
Mexico
oval
M to M-L, 150-360
g (5-13 oz)
brownish
red,
smooth
very good
to
excellent
U
VG
Feb.April
Morena
Mexico
oval
M to ML, 170-345 g
(6-12 oz)
brownish
red,
smooth
very good
to
excellent
U
G to
VG
Feb.April
Oxkutzcab
(Ox)
Mexico
roundish
L to very L, up to
800 g
(1 lb, 12 oz)
reddish
brown
very
good
U
VG
MaySept.
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Sapodilla Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
8
Table 1. Sapodilla cultivars in Florida.
Prolific
United
States
round to
conical, ovate,
skin light
brown, slightly
scurfy
M, 170-225 g
(6.0-7.9 oz)
light tan to
reddish tan
and
smooth
very
good
H
VG
MaySept
Russell
United
States
round to
conical to
ovate, skin
brown with
grayish-brown
patches,
scurfy
L, 284--454 g
(10-16 oz)
pinkish tan,
granular
good,
mildly
fragrant
H
P
MaySept.
Tikal
United
States
ellipsoid to
conical, skin
light brown,
slightly scurfy
S to ML 80-323 g
(3-11 oz)
light
brown,
smooth
very
good,
fragrant
L
VG
Main, Dec.
- March;
minor,
MaySept.
1, S=small; M=medium; ML=medium-large; L=large.
2, CFF, Caribbean fruit fly rating; L=low potential for infestation; M=moderate potential for infestation; H=high potential for infestation;
U=unknown potential for infestation not known.
3, Yield rating; P, poor; F, fair; G, good; VG, very good.
Sapodilla Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
9
Table 2. Cultural calendar for sapodilla production of mature (bearing) trees in the home landscape.
Operation
Jan.
Feb.
March
April
May
June
July
Aug.
Sept.
Oct.
Apply 2-3 dry applications of a
nitrogen-phosphate-potash-magnesium material during this time.
Do not apply any nitrogen containing fertilizer after August because
this may induce the tree to continue to grow during the winter and
therefore reduce flowering in the spring.
Nutritional
2
sprays
Apply 2-3 foliar nutritional sprays containing magnesium, manganese, zinc,
molybdenum, and boron. Applications are most effective during the warm part
of the year.
Apply 1-2 iron applications to the soil around the base of the tree. Iron
applications are most effective during the warm part of the year.
Iron
3
applications
Watering
Insect
control
Do not water the tree unless a severe and prolonged drought occurs.
Monitor for the moth larvae. Control only if a large infestation occurs. Monitor trees for scale insects and treat only if a large
infestation occurs.
Disease
control
In general, diseases are not a problem with sapodilla trees
Pruning
Selectively prune the tree after harvest to control tree height and spread.
1, Use a 6-6-6-3, 8-3-9-3, 4-2-12-2 or similar material.
2, Follow label directions for dilution of dry and liquid micronutrient formulations.
3, In low pH, acid sandy soils apply iron sulfate; in high pH, rockland soils apply chelated iron.
Dec.
Archival copy: for current recommendations see http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu or your local extension office.
General
1
fertilizer
Nov.
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Sapodilla Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
10
Table 3. Suggested fertilizer recommendations for sapodillas for Florida.
Year
Times
per year
Amount/tree/
application
1
(lbs)
Total
amount/tree/
year (lbs)
Minor element
sprays (times/
2
year)
Iron chelate
drenches
(oz/tree/year) 3
1
4-6
0.25-0.5
1.5-3.0
4-6
0.5-0.75
2
4-6
0.5-1.0
3.0-6.0
4-6
0.75-1.0
3
4-6
1.0-1.5
6.0-9.0
4-6
1.0-1.5
4
2-3
1.5-2.5
9.0-10.0
2-3
1.5-2
5
2-3
2.5-3.5
10.0-14.0
2-3
2-4
6
2-3
3.5-4.0
14.0-16.0
2-3
2-4
7+
2-3
4.0-4.5
16.0-18.0
2-3
2-4
1, Use 6-6-6, 8-3-9, or a young-tree or slow release fertilizer.
2. The spray should contain zinc, manganese, boron, molybdenum; it may also contain iron. Foliar sprays
are most effecient from April to September.
3, Iron chelate soil drenches (iron plus water) will prevent iron deficiency; foliar sprays are generally not
effective. Apply soil drenches from June to September.
z
Table 4. Nutrient value of sapodilla fruit (3.5 oz or 100 g of fruit).
Constituent
Approximate
value
Constituent
Water
content
78%
Carbohydrate
20.0 g
Calories
83 kcal
Total dietary
fiber
5.3 g
Protein
0.4 g
Calcium
Fat
1.1 g
Iron
Cholesterol
0 mg
Magnesium
Approximate
value
Constituent
Approximate
value
Phosphorus
12.0 mg
Potassium
193.0 mg
210 mg
Sodium
12.0 mg
0.8 mg
Vitamin C
14.7 mg
12.0 mg
Vitamin A
60 IU
z, Data source, USDA-ARS, Nutrient Data Laboratroy, Database for Standard Reference, Release 18
[website: http://www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/].