The neolithic settlement Skara Brae is a world-famous attraction on the Orkney Islands.
As you wander through some of the world’s most remarkable Neolithic ruins and standing stone circles, you could be forgiven for thinking the fierce winds that blow over the remote Orkney Islands carry the whispers of the ancients.
With the legacy of a sophisticated Neolithic people, a cultured Norse society, and a role in both World Wars, this archipelago off the north of Scotland would surely be one of Europe’s foremost historical tourist destinations were it easier to get to.
While capital Kirkwall is one of Britain’s most popular cruise ports, the islands are otherwise costly and slow to access from much of the British Isles.
But things are about to change. Scottish regional airline Loganair has launched its first ever flights from London to Orkney. With a stop in Dundee en route, the new twice-weekly service from London City to Kirkwall is sure to boost tourism interest in these historic islands.
Introducing the Orkney Islands
Orkney is a cluster of 70 islands located just 10 miles off the northern coastline of Scotland. Separated from the mainland by the treacherous tidal currents of the Pentland Firth, Orkney has a history and Norse-influenced culture all of its own.
Stromness village in the Orkney islands.
Only a part of Scotland since 1472, Orkney retains significant Norse influence chiefly in its place names and local dialect. Together with Shetland, Orkney is believed to have been a base for Viking raids on the British Isles for hundreds of years.
Yet Orkney’s history stretches much farther back in time, with recent archaeological discoveries suggesting human settlement 8,500 years ago.
Twenty of the islands are inhabited. At the heart of the archipelago lies the largest island, somewhat confusingly named Mainland. It’s here you’ll find the capital Kirkwall, the quaint coastal town of Stromness, and the handful of sites together making up the UNESCO World Heritage site known as Heart of Neolithic Orkney.
The other islands are grouped into three distinct regions: the North Isles, South Isles, and the uninhabited Pentland Skerries, which serve as stepping stones between the archipelago and mainland Scotland.
The remarkable Skara Brae
Older than Stonehenge and with a fabulous coastal setting, Skara Brae is one of the world’s most famous Neolithic sites. The site was rediscovered in the 1850s when a violent winter storm blew and washed away earth and grass from a sandy mound, revealing a stunning network of stone structures.
A prehistoric house with stone furniture discovered at Skara Brae in Orkney.
More recent radiocarbon dating established that the settlement was inhabited from about 3200 to 2200 BCE. Inhabitants lived in small, one-room dwellings built partly into the hillside with stone furniture inside and even a sewer system.
Skara Brae now attracts some 70,000 tourists per year. Those wanting to visit should book in advance as capacity is limited to protect the site. Make sure to call in to the visitor center first, as the film and interactive exhibit provide the context you need to make the most of your visit to the ruins.
Standing stones of the Orkney Islands
On a narrow stretch of land separating the Loch of Stenness and the Loch of Harray are the iconic standing stones of the Orkney Islands.
Twenty-seven of the original 60 standing stones in the majestic Ring of Brodgar remain in place today. The ring with a diameter of 340 feet is one of the finest examples of a late Neolithic stone circle anywhere in the world. Nearby, the four towering Stones of Stenness, once part of another large circle, are believed to be even older, potentially dating back to 3100 BCE.
The purpose of both sites remains shrouded in mystery, with theories ranging from ceremonial gathering places to astronomical observation sites.
The Ring of Brodgar is a massive ceremonial stone circle believed to date as far back as 2500 BCE.
It’s hard to convey the feeling of awe these remarkable stones inspire. Historic Environment Scotland does its best, saying the sites “proclaim the triumphs of the human spirit in early ages and isolated places.”
Kirkwall
The historic city of Kirkwall provides an ideal base for exploring the Orkney Islands. Home to about half of the 20,000 people who call Orkney home, Kirkwall has hotels, bars, restaurants and a vibrant arts scene.
With its blend of Scandinavia and Scotland, Kirkwall promises a memorable introduction to the unique culture and history of these fascinating islands. Housed in a former 17th-century manor, Orkney Museum is the place to begin your itinerary.
St. Magnus Cathedral
At the heart of Kirkwall stands the magnificent St. Magnus Cathedral, a red sandstone marvel that stands as a testament to the city's Norse past. Built in 1137, this stunning example of Romanesque architecture remains an active place of worship but also a symbol of Orkney's rich history.
It was commissioned by the nephew of Magnus Erlendsson, the Earl of Orkney, in order to create a sanctuary that would inspire awe and reverence. Few would have expected the structure to still be doing exactly that almost 900 years later.
St. Magnus Cathedral is a big attraction in Kirkwall, the biggest town on the Orkney Islands.
A visit inside the cathedral is a must to appreciate the magnificent high ceiling, intricately carved pillars, and stained-glass windows, showcasing the craftsmanship of a bygone age.
Stromness
On the western coast of Mainland island, Stromness is the second biggest settlement on Orkney albeit one with just 2,500 residents. Fishing remains important to this charming coastal town as does the Stromness-Scrabster ferry, an important transit link to mainland Scotland.
Stromness Museum reflects the importance of the sea to the town and the islands as a whole, featuring exhibits on whaling and exploration.
How to get to Orkney
Just a few miles southeast of the town, Kirkwall Airport is an important transit link for Orkney. In addition to the new London City to Kirkwall route, Loganair operates scheduled services to Shetland and several airports on the Scottish mainland. There are numerous small airports operated throughout Orkney for local air traffic.
Despite the popularity of air travel, car and passenger ferries remain a critical part of Orkney’s transport infrastructure. NorthLink Ferries operate the two busiest routes from Aberdeen to Kirkwall (and on to Shetland) and from Thurso (Scrabster) to Stromness.
A network of inter-island ferries furthers connectivity, but departures are limited especially to the smaller islands.
While local bus routes do exist on the islands, renting a car is the best option to get to many of the historic sites and nature walks outside Kirkwall. Booking a car in advance is a must.
