Oily, dry, normal skin? Pros share skincare advice

LAS CRUCES - From cleansers that claim to zap your pimples to anti-aging creams that boast the ability to turn back time, choosing the right products for your skin can be difficult.

To help you choose the best regimen for your skin, we've asked skincare professionals to share their advice how to keep your skin looking its best.

Cleansers

When it comes to choosing a cleanser, mild is best, Dr. James Kerner, dermatologist at Las Cruces Dermatology Associates, said.

“You want soaps that are mild that don’t strip oil from the skin, especially in a dry climate that can promote wrinkling and eczema and itching,” Kerner said.

Those who have oily skin or acne should look for a cleanser that contains salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, according to WebMD. However, those with acne or other skin conditions, such as rosacea, may want to look into buying a professional cleanser (available at a dermatologist's office), which contains ingredients that can better target these skin problems, said Andrea Hollosi, a European-trained aesthetician at Las Cruces Dermatology Associates.

Hollosi said the type of cleanser you use is not as important as the type of moisturizer you use.

“Your skin doesn’t absorb them,” she said. “They work on the surface.”

If buying a cleanser at the drugstore, Kerner said he suggests using brands like Cetaphil or Dove.

Hollosi also recommends Cetaphil and CeraVe as good mild cleansers for people who don’t have certain skin conditions.

People who have severe acne or other skin conditions may want to visit a dermatologist to see if a prescription is needed to help treat their condition, according to Kerner.

Exfoliating

Martha Mata, instructor of the esthetician program at Glitz School of Cosmetology in Las Cruces, said regularly using an exfoliating scrub will remove the top layer of dead skin cells and allow your skin to take in all the products you are using.

“(By exfoliating), your skin can absorb the lotion or hydrating serum or whatever you’re using,” Mata said. “It will help your skin absorb it better.”

Mata said any type of exfoliating scrub or enzyme mask bought at the store or a salon will help remove dirt and dead skin cells.

However, exfoliating too often can be harsh on the skin, Hollosi said.

“Here in Las Cruces, what I see as a huge problem is that people have the tendency to over-exfoliate their skin,” she said. “They shouldn’t.”

Skin follows a natural process of shedding dead skin cells and exfoliating too often can force the deeper skin cells to become upper cells too quickly, causing your skin to lose water, thicken and produce wrinkles, Hollosi said.

People with normal skin should exfoliate once every two weeks and once a week if your skin is oily, Hollosi said.

Astringents

While many people use astringents (used to shrink and constrict the skin) as part of their daily skincare regimen, Kerner said he doesn’t recommend using an astringent at all.

“Astringents will strip the skin of oils,” he said.

Mata said using witch hazel is a good substitute for harsh astringents and can be bought at many drugstores.

Sunscreen, face lotions

It's unanimous among skincare professionals that choosing a face lotion containing sunscreen is key — especially for those living in hotter climates.

“We live in the desert, where the ultraviolet (radiation) is 40 percent stronger than it is at sea level, so that contributes to very intense photo damage (sun damage) that people will accumulate over the course of their lives, so the main thing with anyone interested in maintaining their youthful appearance is to protect themselves from the sun,” Kerner said.

Over time, exposure to the sun can cause wrinkles, skin discoloration and skin cancer, according to WebMD.

Kerner said, in this climate, it’s best to use a sunscreen or lotion containing sunscreen that is SPF 50 or higher. Sunscreens should also contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which physically block ultraviolet radiation.

“A broad spectrum high SPF sunscreen should be used every morning,” he said. “Even on a cloudy day, 80 percent of the ultraviolet rays will still get through the clouds.”

Sunscreen should be applied liberally and often. If you participate in a lot of outdoor activities, look for one that is “waterproof” or “water-resistant,” according to the American Melanoma Foundation.

Hollosi also recommends wearing a hat when outdoors to protect the scalp from sun exposure.

Moisturizers, night creams

Mata said it’s a good idea to use a moisturizer or cream at night because that is when your skin absorbs product best.

“For night creams, I would go with something that has retinol (a form of vitamin A found in many products that don't require a prescription), and that’s for any aging skin, oily or sun damaged skin,” Mata said.

According to Mayo Clinic, while many over-the-counter moisturizers claim to reduce wrinkles and reverse damage caused by the sun, these products aren't required to undergo scientific research to prove their effectiveness and the benefits of these products may not very noticeable. However, along with retinol, some ingredients found in over-the-counter moisturizers that may help improve the appearance of wrinkles include the following:

• Vitamin C: An antioxidant that may help protect skin from sun damage.

• Hydroxy acids: Alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids (salicylic acid) and poly hydroxy acids are exfoliants — substances that remove the upper layer of old, dead skin and stimulate the growth of smooth, evenly pigmented new skin.

• Coenzyme Q10: May help reduce fine wrinkles around the eyes and protect the skin from sun damage.

• Peptides: Used in products for wound healing, stretch marks and now wrinkles.

• Tea extracts: Green, black and oolong tea contain compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Green tea extracts are the ones most commonly found in wrinkle creams.

• Grape seed extract: Along with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, grape seed extract promotes wound healing.

• Niacinamide: An antioxidant that helps reduce water loss in the skin and may improve skin elasticity.

Hollosi said those who want better results should look into buying a professional moisturizer, which are more beneficial than over-the-counter products because of the special ingredients they contain.

“Professional products penetrate deeper, making it a more long term effect,” she said.  “Over-the-counter products may feel good when using it, but these products tend to work only on the surface and you will only see a short term effect, which doesn't solve the problem. The ingredients in the professional products are a much higher quality than something that is purchased at a drug store.”

Prescription retinoid products also will have stronger effects than retinol products bought at the drug store or department store, according to WebMD.

"Tretinoin, tazarotene, and adapalene — these are prescription strength retinoids that stimulate the production of new collagen and reduce photo damage," Kerner said. "They are also a mainstay for treatment of acne. ... Sunscreen in the morning and a (topical) retinoid at night is the best combination for preserving a youthful appearance."

Find right products 

Mata said one of the most common mistakes she sees people make is using the wrong products for their skin type, such as using products for oily skin when their skin actually dry.

Hollosi said when choosing which products to use on your skin, it's best to speak with a professional.

“I offer free consultations,” she said. “I am able to match your skin type to the product that is best for your skin."

Skin evaluations are also offered at Glitz, located at 2460 Missouri Ave., for $5.

For those who want to amp up their skincare regimen, Mata said she suggests visiting a salon to get microdermabrasion treatments about every three weeks. This helps exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. Getting a chemical peel also exfoliates the skin, but penetrates the skin a little deeper than the top layer. This should be done about once a month, she said.

Alexia Severson may be reached at 575-541-5462, aseverson@lcsun-news.com or @AlexiaMSeverson on Twitter.