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100 yrs: Why 10, Trinity Square, London, deserves a closer look

Surrounded by London’s high-rises, it’s easy to forget that this 20th-century Beaux-Arts-style building was once at the heart of the British Empire’s trade and commerce.

Fiona Keates

Archivist, Port and River

27 October 2022

The next time you pass by the impressive-looking building at ‘10, Trinity Square’, and admire the wonderful 20th century architecture, be sure to pause and soak in the atmosphere. This was once a busy office space at the heart of the British Empire’s trade and commerce!

Perched on a historically significant site — one that saw the grim executions of Sir Thomas More and Thomas Cromwell in the 16th century (this is also a great time to plug our must-visit Executions exhibition here), as well as affording great views of the Tower of London and Thames — it now houses a luxury hotel (as many such buildings now do). But, from 1922 to 1971, this was the headquarters of the Port of London Authority.

Here, at the Museum of London Docklands, we take care of the PLA’s archive and while preparing for an exhibition on the history of the Port of London in 2021–22, came across uncatalogued material relating directly to this impressive structure, around 100 years on.

A painting of the PLA headquarters at Trinity Square from the 1922 opening brochure. (ID no.: PLA/PLA/STO/1/3)

A painting of the PLA headquarters at Trinity Square from the 1922 opening brochure. (ID no.: PLA/PLA/STO/1/3)

Why is the PLA important?

As the early 20th century saw increased trade volumes and competition in London’s ports, there was a need for a regulator. The Port of London Authority (PLA), a public trust, was established in 1909. It looked after trade and commerce through the docks, as well as the infrastructure and management of the River Thames. This included responsibility for the safe import and export of goods worth over £320,000,000 — a year!

The new board, led by Lord Devonport, felt that for such a large endeavour a suitable headquarters was required. ‘10, Trinity Square’ was ideal — close to the river, City of London and convenient for those travelling into London from the enclosed docks in London’s east end. Even William the Conqueror built the Tower of London nearby in the 1070s! It also represented an excellent development opportunity for the PLA as it went on to purchase more buildings and land, ending up with around 3 acres to develop. This included the demolition of existing buildings and a re-working of the street layout such as Catherine Court.

Site of the old Catharine Court when it was being demolished and cleared for the PLA headquarters. (ID no.: PLA/PLA/PM/6/10/2/1)

Site of the old Catharine Court when it was being demolished and cleared for the PLA headquarters. (ID no.: PLA/PLA/PM/6/10/2/1)

Map showing the area before and after development (ID no.: PLA/PLA/STO/1/3 p.19)

Map showing the area before and after development (ID no.: PLA/PLA/STO/1/3 p.19)

A fitting design and build

10, Trinity Square, as it stands now. (Courtesy: Ethan Doyle White/ Wikimedia Commons)

10, Trinity Square, as it stands now. (Courtesy: EthanDoyle White/ Wikimedia Commons)

Figuring out the architect for such an important building was no mean feat. In 1911–12, the PLA ran a competition to select an architect. There were specific preferences, such as “the exterior should be executed throughout in Portland Stone, be dignified and monumental…”. The stipulated cost was a princely £300,000! There were instructions on the required floor area for each department, and a preference for progressive open-plan offices (very different to the cramped city buildings that they occupied already) for their 811 employees. They also required luncheon spaces, committee rooms and reception halls.

Of the 170 sketch designs received, six were shortlisted. Many of the competitors sent in additional queries, which are recorded in the competition volume, where there seemed to be a surprising number of queries about the inclusion of ladies toilets for the PLA’s female staff!

In July 1912, Sir Edwin Cooper — who is also known for designing the Marylebone Town Hall, and the 1928 Lloyds building — was announced as the winning architect. The August 1912 edition of The Builder included sketches of the six shortlisted designs, a copy of which is in the PLA Archive Collection. What’s interesting to see is the similarities in the sketches, indicative of the prevalent architecture styles of the time.

Two of the shortlisted designs that weren’t selected — one by Messrs. Bowden & Wallis (left) and the other by Ernest W. Wray — which were published in The Builder, August 1912. (ID nos: PLA/PLA/LED/1/2/2/2/1; PLA/PLA/LED/1/2/2/2/1)

Two of the shortlisted designs that weren’t selected — one by Messrs. Bowden & Wallis (left) and the other by Ernest W. Wray — which were published in The Builder, August 1912. (ID nos: PLA/PLA/LED/1/2/2/2/1; PLA/PLA/LED/1/2/2/2/1)

The design was ambitious and imposing with the opening brochure describing it as “based on careful study of the best examples of English Renaissance, while Italian and French influences are apparent”. One of the most striking features of the design is a large central rotunda, reflecting the dome of nearby St Paul’s Cathedral, and flooding the building with light.

The exterior is also decorated with statues, thematically linked to the PLA. For instance, you can see the striking image of Father Thames in the central tower. He is flanked by sculptures of a galleon drawn by sea horses and steered by a winged figure — representing “exportation” on one side, and a group of oxen accompanied by a winged female figure, representative of “produce”, on the other.

When opened in 1922, there were additional statues at ground floor level. To the west of the entrance is a male figure holding scales of trade, and books of account, representing “commerce”. And, finally, on the eastern side is a female figure resting her foot on a globe, with steering wheel and chart, symbolic of “navigation”.

The winning design sketch by Sir Edwin Cooper. (ID no.: PLA/PLA/LED/1/2/2/1/10)

The winning design sketch by Sir Edwin Cooper. (ID no.: PLA/PLA/LED/1/2/2/1/10)

A grand opening

The building’s foundation stone was laid by Lord Devonport in 1915. The building work — by John Mowlem & Co. — took seven years, though they understandably faced delays during World War I. Once ready for occupation, the PLA arranged a grand opening on 17 October 1922, while David Lloyd George, the Prime Minister, was their principal guest, members of the cabinet, shipping merchants and even ambassadors were invited to take part in the event. The esteemed guest list shows just how much of a national interest the Port of London occupied. In the archive, there is a list of those invited to the luncheon or reception, alongside whether they invitation was accepted or declined.

Then PM David Lloyd George speaking at the opening ceremony of the PLA’s new headquarters on 17 October 1922, pictured in the rotunda under a specially made canopy. (Courtesy: PLA Archives)

Then PM David Lloyd George speaking at the opening ceremony of the PLA’s new headquarters on 17 October 1922, pictured in the rotunda under a specially made canopy. (Courtesy: PLA Archives)

The press and trade magazines at the time also widely reported the opening of the new headquarters. Architect’s Journal wrote that the building’s “influence upon architecture is obvious and instantaneous”. It was described in The Daily Telegraph as “London’s latest landmark” and as “a dignified structure, synonymous of the Port and all that it stands for”. Of course, these expressions are taken from the cuttings the PLA chose to keep in 1922, so perhaps any dissenting opinions in the press were not retained. One of the articles also suggests the cost was closer to £2,000,000, though that figure may have included costs for land purchases, which had clearly increased dramatically from the competition 10 years before.

The PLA headquarters façade during its first few years. (ID nos: PLA/PLA/PM/6/10/4/1; PLA/PLA/PM/6/10/4/2)

The PLA headquarters façade during its first few years. (ID nos: PLA/PLA/PM/6/10/4/1; PLA/PLA/PM/6/10/4/2)

Working history

The new headquarters quickly become a hub for a lot of PLA services, providing housing for central departments from the General Manager’s Office, the Solicitor’s Office to the Chief Engineer’s staff, as well as counter services for those needing to pay port rates. This made it a busy and bustling place to work.

Typists at the PLA headquarters at 10, Trinity Square, c.1930. (Courtesy: PLA Archive)

Typists at the PLA headquarters at 10, Trinity Square, c.1930. (Courtesy: PLA Archive)

During the Second World War, the building suffered severe bomb damage, with the windows being blown out and the destruction of the glass rotunda. Despite the damage, the building was repaired and refurbished, and in 1946, the PLA hosted a reception for delegates from the newly formed United Nations.

The damage to the PLA headquarters rotunda during bombing in World War II, 8 December 1940. (Courtesy: PLA Archive)

The damage to the PLA headquarters rotunda during bombing in World War II, 8 December 1940. (Courtesy: PLA Archive)

A rather short stay

Despite all the planning, the PLA’s tenure at Trinity Square would not last, and as traffic to the docks increasingly went to Tilbury (where they were better-equipped to deal with containerised goods), the PLA was forced to look for ways to make new efficiencies and changes. They decided to sell 10, Trinity Square. Thus, in 1971, the PLA moved out of the building permanently. The building continued to serve as offices for a brokerage firm, before its acquisition and development as a hotel in 2010.

Today, amidst London’s high-rises, the 20th-century Beaux-Arts-style building stands as a reminder of London’s significant maritime and trade history. And from the grand façade to its striking location, the building’s history, along with that of London’s port, can all be unlocked from the documents in the PLA Archive.