Garden Guide - Golden Acre Garden Sentre

GArDen 

GUiDe 

620 Goddard Avenue ne 

(403) 274-4286 

www.goldenacre.ca 

GArDen Sentre $.99 SKU 480 

GOLDEN ACRE GARDEN GUIDE

StArt 

SAVinG 

toDAy 

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Print management 

the PrintmAn, 

Calgary 

printman@nucleus.com 

ContentS 

Store informAtion.........................3-17 

AnnUALS...........................................18-34 

VeGetABLeS........................................40-46 

BULBS.................................................47-67 

PerenniALS........................................68-91 

HoUSePLAntS....................................93-105 

treeS AnD SHrUBS.............................106-133 

roSeS.................................................135-142 

LAWnS................................................147-149 

LAnDSCAPinG....................................150 

XeriSCAPinG......................................151-153 

SoiL...................................................154 

ComPoStinG....................................155 

nUtrientS.........................................157-161 

BirDS....................................162-163 

PeStS & ProBLemS.........................164-178 

CHriStmAS...............................179-181 

Store informAtion

Store informAtion 

HoW to finD US 

Calgary 

620 Goddard Avenue ne 

1 Block north from the corner of edmonton trial and mcKnight Blvd. 

Phone: (403) 274-4286 

edmonton tr. 4th St. n.e. 

Goddard Ave. Deerfoot tr. 

mcKnight Blvd. 

visit our website at www.goldenacre.ca

Store mAP 

BULK 

ProDUCtS 

LArGe 

CALiPer treeS 

SoD 

neW 

VeGetABLeS 

HerBS 

BULK 

ProDUCtS 

LArGe 

CALiPer treeS 

SoD 

neW 

LAnDSCAPinG 

SUPPLieS 

WHoLeSALe 

PerenniALS 

treeS 

SHrUBS 

eVerGreenS 

SoiL 

fertiLizer 

ADDitiVeS 

GArDen 

SUPPLieS 

SoiL 

fertiLizer 

ADDitiVeS 

tiLL 

eXit 

GArDen 

SUPPLieS 

SoiL 

fertiLizer 

ADDitiVeS 

ConCeSSion 

PArKinG 

foUntAinS 

SHoW room 

eXPreSS tiLL 

Pottery 

CUStomer 

SerViCe 

AnnUALS 

PLAnterS 

troPiCALS 

eXotiCS 

entrAnCe 

reSt 

roomS 

Store informAtion

GUArAnteeS 

Golden Acre Garden Sentres Guarantee and return Policy 

GUArAntee PoLiCy 

1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 

Perennials are guaranteed up to the first frost of the season 

Tropicals are guaranteed for 30 days from the date of purchase 

Trees, Shrubs, Evergreens, and Shrub Roses are guaranteed for one (1) year from the date of purchase 

□ A Replacement Certificate will be provided for returned items 

Non-plant hard goods are guaranteed for 30 days from the date of purchase 

itemS not GUArAnteeD 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Annual Plants 

Seasonal Flowering Tropicals 

Tea Roses 

Cedars 

Holiday Merchandise 

retUrn PoLiCy 

1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

Customer must have a valid receipt for any returned items (no exceptions) 

Returns less than $5 will receive Cash Back 

Returns greater than $5 will receive Golden Acre Gift Card 

Purchases with a Replacement Certificate are final sale and not guaranteed 

Items not deemed resalable will not be returned 

Golden Acre reserves the right to deny any returned merchandise if it is deemed to be misused, abused, or carelessly 

treated 

DeLiVery SerViCe 

• Golden Acre Garden Sentres is glad to deliver any of your large purchases such as trees, shrubs, house plants, bird baths, 

fountains, or other concrete products. 

• A general delivery service charge applies to most deliveries, consisting of any number of items, which are delivered to the same 

address within the city limits. 

• A higher delivery service charge applies to patio furniture and fountains which are leveled and set up upon delivery to the same 

address. 

• Deliveries cannot be specified to arrive in the morning or afternoon on a specific day. We will guarantee that your delivery will 

arrive between 9am-9pm on the specified day of delivery. 

• Due to the seasonality of our business the frequency of our delivery service varies periodically. Please check with sales staff 

you for specific delivery days. 

• Special instructions on where delivery items can be placed in your yard are to be indicated on the delivery form at the time of 

purchase. 

It is not necessary that you be home when your delivery arrives. Your delivery items will be placed in your yard as you requested 

at the time of delivery. If no special instructions were given at the time of purchase our driver will place your delivery items in the 

most appropriate available location. 

• Occasional problems do occur with deliveries. Please notify Golden Acre within 24 hours if you experience any difficulties with 

your delivered items. 

Store informAtion


CCHt/LAntA CertifiCAtion 

Aaron Barb 

Carol Donna 

Jeanette Kelly 

Ken Liana 

Nancy Pavlina 

Golden Acre Garden Sentres Ltd. Calgary is proud 

to announce that we have the greatest number of 

Canadian Nursery Trades Association/ certified 

Horticultural Technicians in Western Canada. In 

order to serve you better and to fulfill our mission 

statement every year staff members train for the 

nationally recognized CNTA program. Each of our 

staff members who has taken and passed this course 

underwent rigorous testing in both practical and 

applied knowledge across a wide range of subjects 

such as plant identification and care, pest and plant 

pathology, fertilizing, and so on. All our staff members 

who have attained this high level of horticultural 

training are listed to the left . Ask them any question 

you may have; their knowledge base is broad and if 

they do not know the answer they will know who does. 

Congratulations to all who have acheived this honour!

GiftS & 

Home 

DeCor 

At Golden Acre Garden Sentre and Gifts you can find 

everything you need for the perfect christmas. And that 

includes the perfect gift. 

In our Giftware Department we carry a variety of gifts 

ideal for both the home and garden. We have racks of 

stunning artwork, realistic artificial flowers, decorative 

containers, hand & body lotion, and anything else you 

might need (or want). 

Our stock is constantly changing, and we are always 

receiving new and unique giftware. Come in and see 

our amazing selection for yourself. 

Store informAtion


10 

WorKinG WitH 

oUr CommUnitieS 

Calgary Children’s Foundation 

The Calgary Children’s Foundation has always been one of Golden Acre’s favorite charities. We have supported 

the Children’s Foundation for over 20 years and donated over $300,000. Wade Hartwell, founder of Golden Acre, 

is even a director of the foundation. During May, designated Arbor Month, we donate $1.00 from every tree sold 

at both the North and South Calgary store to the Calgary Children’s Foundation. At Christmas we hold a Black Tie 

Gala from which all proceeds of a silent auction go to the Children’s Foundation. Also during Christmas we donate 

$1.00 from every live tree and $5.00 from every everlasting tree over six feet tall that we sell. 

Olds College Foundation 

Golden Acre is a big supporter of the Olds College Foundation, improving education in our industry and agriculture 

in Alberta. Projects we have worked on are the development of an indoor teaching centre and the Olds College 

Arboretum. 

Our Community 

In addition to these programs, Golden Acre assists literally hundreds of community organizations in a number of 

ways. We are always willing to help schools through donations of plant material for educational purposes, goods 

for fundraising raffles, and beautification projects. Golden Acre helps out more than 400 organizations including 

churches, sports teams, community associations, and performing arts groups by donating items for raffles, 

money raising activities, and so on. For the past few years we have been proud to support the Dean House, Fort 

Calgary, and the Okotoks Community Center by supplying plants for their extensive gardens. Finally, and perhaps 

most importantly, Golden Acre is committed to education. We assist schools in fundraising and by supplying plant 

material for learning purposes.

Store informAtion


12 

LAnDSCAPe ConSULtAnt 

DAn SinCLAir 

If you have landscaping in mind for this year and don't know where to begin, Golden Acre offers a landscaping 

consulting service. Our consultant, Dan Sinclair, has been in the horticultural industry for over 30 years. For a 

fee he will offer recommendations regarding placement of structutral elements, and planting advice. He will also 

make suggestions regarding evergreens, colorful trees and shrubs, perennial flowers, shade planting, seasonal 

flowering, annuals, and ground covers. 

Dan can help with trouble-shooting your garden. If you have any questions about pests, problems, or diseases 

he will be able to assist you from an Integrated Pest Management point of view. He is also available to give advice 

on pruning and tree care. 

to ArrAnGe An APPointment CALL: 

274-4286

CALGAry’S 

GArDen Center 

SinCe 1967 

GArDen Sentre

Store informAtion


16 

ALBertA PLAnt HArDineSS 

zone mAP

LoCAL 

HortiCULtUrAL SoCietieS 

We at Golden Acre Garden Sentres Ltd. are proud of 

the diversity and enthusiasm of local gardening groups 

and are aware of the benefits they bring to the horticultural 

milieu of Calgary and southern Alberta. They are 

an exceptional group of people involved in exceptional 

groups! Above all they love gardening and growing by 

their own hands and for this they should be recognized. 

To help promote the individual groups and to encourage 

the diversity of our horticultural community we would like 

to try to mention most of the societies active in southern 

Alberta. If you belong to a horticultural society that you 

think should be listed here, please give us a call at (403) 

274-4286. 

WeBSiteS 

Calgary Horticultural Society 

208-50 Ave S. Calgary, AB 

403-287-3469 Fax: 403-287-6986 

E-mail: office@calhort.org 

http://www.calhort.org 

Calgary Rock and Alpine Garden Society 

http://www.crags.ca 

Calgary Rose Society 

E-mail: info@calgaryrosesociety.com 

http://www.calgaryrosesociety.com 

Foothill Orchid Society 

E-mail: foothillsorchidsociety@shaw.ca 

http://members.shaw.ca/foothillsorchidsociety/ 

Stampede City African Violet Society 

E-mail: violets@telus.net 

http://www3.telus.net/scavs 

McKenzie Towne Gardening Club 

http://www.mckenzietownegardeningclub.com 

LANTA 

Landscape Alberta Nursery Trades Association, 

10215 - 176 Street, Edmonton, Alberta T5S 1M1 

Phone: (780) 489-1991, Fax: (780) 444-2152 

http://www.landscape-alberta.com 

Petals Garden Club - Okotoks, AB 

http://www.petalsgc.shawbiz.ca/petals/ 

Morinville Garden Club - Morinville, AB 

http://www.petalsgc.shawbiz.ca/mgc/ 


1

AnnUALS 

1 

AnnUALS yoUr qUeStionS 

Q: What is that white powdery substance on the top of 

my begonia? Rose? Impatiens leaf? 

A: Powdery mildew is the name of this fungus that attacks the 

upper leaf structure of begonias, roses, chrysanthemums, 

and impatiens. It starts out as white spotting which, 

with time, forms a white mass on the leaf. This is due to 

high humidity coupled with poor air circulation around a 

stressed plant. Watch your planting space so plants are 

not so close as to be overcrowded when mature; 

avoid watering at night. When powdery mildew 

is at it’s beginning phase, 

spray with a fungicide 

like Funginex, following 

directions on the bottle. 

Q: My peppers have 

little tiny green bugs on 

the tips of the plant. What 

are they? 

A: These bugs are called 

aphids, sucking insects 

which are born pregnant. 

Unfortunately, peppers 

and aphids seem to go 

hand-in-hand. The best 

control is to start out with 

a clean, weed-free growing 

area. Secondly, during the 

growing phase, spray with 

Safers Soap or Trounce 

every two weeks for a 

constant control. Ensure 

that you rinse the spray off 

the plant the following day 

or damage may occur over 

time. 

Q: My tomatoes and/or 

peppers have a sunken 

soft black spot on their bottom. 

What is it? 

A: Blossom end rot is the name of 

this problem, brought on by one or a 

combination of these factors: 

-Insufficient calcuim in the soil 

-Excess nitrogen, magnesium, potassium, or 

sodium has been applied as a fertilizer. This interferes 

with calcium absorption. 

-Very wet or very dry conditions interfere with the 

uptake of calcium. 

To reduce the possibility of blossom end rot maintain soil pH 

around 6.5. The lime in our soil adds calcium but it cannot 

be absorbed by the plant unless the soil is less alkali. 

Watering with rain water will help as it is neither alkali nor 

acidic and adding sulphur to the soil will reduce alkalinity. 

Avoid drought stress and wide fluctuations in soil moisture 

by mulching or watering consistently. To avoid moisture 

stress apply enough water to wet all the soil in the root 

zone when the soil is dry several inches down, depending 

on the pot size. 

Q: What annuals bloom late in the season? 

A: Good annuals for late summer flowering are zinnia, 

cosmos, cleome,salvia, sunflower, and morning glory. 

Q: My plants are so leggy, long, and spindly. What 

can I do? 

A: Cut or pinch the soft tissue of the plant’s 

main stem, removing up to 50% of the 

overall plant’s height. Increase the light 

availability if inside the house. Fertilize 

the plant with an all-purpose fertilizer 

following the instructions for that 

particular fertilizer. 

Q: I have what look like 

little white flies covering the 

underneath leaves of my fuchsia. 

What are they? 

A: As the description of the insect 

implies, they are known as white 

flies. From egg, larvae, pupae to 

adult, they reside on the underneath 

portion of the leaf. If a small 

infestation is present, even a quick 

manual wiping off will control the 

problem. Total removal of the leaf 

or leaves during the egg, 

larvae and pupae stage is 

the easiest. Yellow sticky 

strips attract and catch the 

adult. Use of the chemicals such as 

Trounce or Safers Soap as per label 

directions coupled with the above 

manual control may 

work. Many beneficial 

insects like lacewings 

and ladybugs feed on 

whiteflies. Care must be taken 

when applying pesticides so as 

not to inadvertently destroy good 

insects. 

Q: I have a fuchsia that has little berrylike 

structures forming on the tips where 

the flowers used to be.What are they? 

A: The berry-like structures are the seed pods, which form 

after the flowers were pollinated. It would be best to remove 

the pods to send all the energy into more blooms. Pinching 

or cutting off can be easily done. 

Q: I planted my annuals yesterday during the day; today, 

they are like limp little noodles. What’s happening? 

A: This may be transplant shock. Transplanting on a cool 

or overcast day, avoiding the hottest part of the day to do

the actual planting would be less stressful on the young 

plants. Watering the plants thoroughly with a final soaking 

in with a high phosphorous fertilizer would cushion the 

roots protecting them from their new surroundings. 

Q: I woke up this morning to find white, droopy leaves 

on my petunias. What’s wrong? 

A: Frost may have touched them; typically a papery, thin, 

white leaf structure is synonymous with frost damage. If the 

whole plant has toppled over it may be too late to revive. If 

it’s just the leaves it will regrow but protect the plant from 

future frost damage by using a frost blanket. This sort of 

damage may also be from too much heat or too little soil 

moisture; be sure to evaluate the situation. 

Q: How do I prepare my soil for planting annuals? 

A: In the spring, before planting, turn the soil of your beds 

to a depth of 6-12” (15-30 cm). Loosen heavy clay soil by 

adding peat moss and/or compost and zeolite. You can 

also add slow release fertilizer like Vigoro Pink (8-12-16). 

Rake bed smooth and you’re done! 

Q: How do I look after my plants before I plant them? 

A: If you are unable to plant your bedding out plants the 

day you purchase them make sure to water them well and 

place in the shade. If frost is expected, keep indoors in a 

well-lit location and water as needed. The ideal planting 

time would be a cloudy evening but if you have to plant on 

a sunny day water immediately after planting. Also, be sure 

to use a rooting fertilizer like Plant-prod 10-52-10 or Plant 

Start 5-15-5. 

Q: How often should I water my hanging baskets? 

A: There are a number of factors contributing to the rapid 

drying of hanging baskets – size of the pot, the exposure 

to wind, air, and sun, and the tendency of hanging plants 

to get root bound. Because of this, hot days can be a 

real problem; you may have to water 2-3 times per day. 

Normally simply water when the soil is dry to the touch. 

There are water-conserving soils available which can help 

reduce the amount of watering. The addition of zeolite can 

also help as it will lock in moisture. Both of these products 

only help the soil conserve moisture; on hot days you will 

still need to check the soil often. 

Q: When is the best time to water plants? 

A: Ideally watering should be done in the early morning. 

This lets the plants soak up water thoroughly. Watering in 

the afternoon, especially during hot weather, can cause 

damage to the plant leaves. Water can sit in drops on the 

leaves, effectively acting like little magnifying glasses and 

burning the plant tissue. Watering late in the day allows 

the water to sit over night and can promote disease and/or 

fungus problems like powdery mildew. 

Q: What is the best date to plant my annuals? 

A: In the Calgary area we have a notoriously unpredictable 

spring. Because of this we generally recommend that you 

plant your annuals on the first weekend of June. If you 

purchase them before this date please follow the above 

instrucions regarding keeping bedding out plants alive in 

their containers. 

Q: How much fertilizer should I use on my flowers and 

how often should I fertilize? 

A: This depends on the type of fertilizer you are using. As 

a general rule liquid/water soluble fertilizer can be applied 

every 2-4 weeks. There are specific annual fertilizers 

available that encourage blooming. Look for a high middle 

number (15-30-15 or 10-52-10). You can also use Smartcote 

slow-release granular fertilizers designed for annuals and 

hanging baskets. Simply turn fertilizer into the soil when 

you plant. Other granulated fertilizers are available and 

can last up to 3 months, though occasional supplemental 

fertilizing with a water-soluble fertilizer is recommended. 

Q: What does deadheading mean and is it important? 

A: Deadheading is the process of removing spent flower 

heads from the plant to encourage further blooming. The 

seeds would form where the dead flowers were if they were 

pollinated and the plant would focus most of its energy 

towards seed production instead of flowering. Removing 

dead flowers also helps reduce the risk of diseases such 

as Botrytis. 

Q: What would be the best annuals for cut-flower 

gardening? 

A: The most popular flowers for cut-flower gardening are 

as follows: snapdragon, calendula, cosmos, gypsophila, 

sweet pea, zinnia, celosia, aster, sweet william, sunflower, 

and bachelor’s button. Cut the flowers early in the morning 

and immediately place in lukewarm water. Cut off all the 

leaves below the waterline to reduce bacterial and odour 

problems. 

Q: I heard on the news that we are going to have a 

frost and I have planted my annuals already. What can 

I do? 

A: The best defense against frost on tender annuals is 

waiting to plant until either the May long weekend or the first 

weekend of June. However, we do live in Calgary and the 

weather can be quite unpredictable. Covering your annuals 

with blankets or frost protection products like Remay fabric 

will certainly help. Obviously, if it is in a container bring it 

indoors for the night. Take care not to use plastic coverings 

if you can help it. If it is unavoidable definitely keep the 

plastic from touching the leaves of the plant. 

AnnUALS 1

AnnUALS 

20 

AnnUAL fAVoriteS 

We would like to share with you some of our favorite 

tried and true plants that work well or are very popular in 

Calgary every year. 

Alyssum 

This annual flowers from early spring until the first frost, 

making it one of the most useful border plants. Masses of 

dainty, fragrant blue, pink, or white flowers are produced on 

2 in.(5cm) plants. This annual does well in sun or partial 

shade. Space alyssum 6-8 in.(15-20cm) apart to create 

a carpet of color. 

Coleus 

This rapidly growing foliage plant can also be used as a 

houseplant. Pinch back the terminal buds of a 12-14 in. 

(30-35cm) tall plant to produce a very full multicolored 

accent plant for shady areas. 

Dracaena Spike 

These vase-shaped foliage plants have grass-like leaves 

that cascade as the plants mature. Dracaena makes a 

great centerpiece in containers or formal flowerbeds. 

Fuchsia 

Fuchsias are weeping woody plants grown here as annuals. 

These attractive plants have large glossy leaves and 

produce exquisite bell-shaped single or double-pink flowers 

in purple, mauve, pink, or red. They are often bi-colored 

with combinations of these colors with white centers. 

Place these hanging baskets in partially shaded locations 

and keep them consistently moist throughout the growing 

season. These plants can be over-wintered indoors. 

Alyssum 

Coleus 

Dracaena Spike Fuchsia 

Lobelia 

Impatiens 

The bright green, shiny leaves of this plant are attractive 

indoors as a houseplant or outdoors as an easy to grow 

annual. This 8-10 in.(20-25cm) tall annual produces an 

abundance of salmon, pink, white, or red flowers. Plant 

in partial or full shade, spacing the seedlings 18 in.(45cm) 

apart and keep the soil evenly moist. 

Lobelia 

There are two basic varieties of lobelia: trailing and upright. 

The trailing variety looks especially good cascading over 

the edge of a planter box. This profusely blooming annual 

grows 6 in.(15cm) upright and trailing 12 in.(30cm). 

Lobelia produces a mass of dainty blue, purple, white, or 

red colored flowers. 

Marigold 

Available in numerous heights, each variety produces 

a wide range of colors from bright yellow and orange to 

bronze and reddish-brown. Plant marigolds in full sun, 

spacing the seedlings 12-14 in.(30-35cm) apart. 

Nasturtium 

Nasturtiums can be planted in either flower beds or hanging 

containers. They grow in a mounded fashion with round, 

smooth leaves. Dwarf varieties are 8-10 in.(15-25cm) tall 

while taller varieties can grow to 24 in. (60cm) tall. The 

2 in.(5cm) white blossoms come in white, salmon, yellow, 

orange, or red colors and have a strong fragrance. Plant 

this annual in full sun or partial shade, spacing the seedlings 

8 in.(20cm) apart. 

Impatiens 

Marigold 

Nasturtium

Osteospermum 

Also known as African daisy, this tender plant produces 

masses of large 4 in.(10cm) flowers which are excellent 

for cutting. White, yellow, salmon, and rose colored 

flowers are produced on a 12 in.(30cm) tall plant. Plant 

osteospermum in a sunny location in dry soil and space 

6in.(15 cm) apart. 

Pansy 

Pansies are a flexible annual/perennial that can be found 

in a wide assortment of colors. Pansies are extremely frost 

tolerant so they do well in the early spring and with attention 

can bloom well into the fall. They thrive in cool moist 

soil. Sunnier locations will produce more flowers, although 

hot positions are not recommended. Pansies are good for 

borders, beds, edging, and container gardening. Do not 

allow them to dry out in hot weather. 

Petunia 

Petunias are the most popular annual because they require 

little care to produce masses of flowers all summer long. 

Petunias produce 2-4 in.(5-10cm) wide, trumpet shaped 

flowers and are available in an endless number of colors. 

The large, showy flowers and the low maintenance required 

to keep them growing and producing flowers makes the 

Grandiflora petunias the most popular. Multiflora petunias 

have smaller flowers but make up for it in the number of 

flowers they produce. Multiflora petunias are available 

in more colors and shapes than the Grandifloras – starshaped 

and striped varieties are available. 

Osteospermum 

AnnUAL fAVoriteS 

Portulaca 

Portulaca grandiflora consists of bright flowers that look 

like tiny roses. Portulaca oleracea is a single petal trailing 

plant on a woodier stem used for enhancing hanging 

baskets and containers. Portulaca does require a hot and 

sunny location. 

Snapdragon 

This familiar plant creates large masses of color in any 

flower bed. Each flower is like a colorful butterfly, making 

them excellent for cutting. Large heads of lightly fragrant 

flowers are produced on tall, medium, or dwarf snapdragon 

varieties. Tall varieties grow 24-30 in.(60-75cm) tall requiring 

support and produce white, red, yellow, orange, 

bronze, cherry, pink, and rose flowers. Medium varieties 

grow 18-24 in.(45-60cm) tall and produce scarlet, crimson, 

yellow, orange, white, pink, cherry, or mixed colored flowers. 

Dwarf varieties grow 6-8 in.(15-20cm) tall and come 

in mixed colors. Snapdragons are heat-tolerant and should 

be planted in rich, well-drained soil. 

Pansy Petunia Portulaca 

Snapdragon 

AnnUALS 21

AnnUALS 

22 

AnnUALS ContAiner GArDeninG 

In recent years container gardening has become very 

popular mainly because this sort of gardening is both attractive 

and convenient. Containerized gardening is perfect 

for those with little or no garden space such as people living 

in apartments, condominiums, or small lots. This form of 

gardening is appealing to anyone with little time to spend 

cultivating, weeding, fertilizing, etc. Even though the same 

or more attention must be paid to container gardens, it 

takes less time and some jobs (like weeding) are greatly 

reduced. Gardening this way is more economical in the 

long run; you will require less water, less soil, less fertilizer, 

and so on. Container gardening is ideally suited for those 

with limited mobility like the elderly or disabled who wish 

to grow a beautiful garden or their own vegetables but 

are unable to do so in the conventional manner. Finally, 

container gardens simply look good and many gardeners 

use them to supplement their own garden beds. 

Containers 

There are a wide variety of container types available for 

planting. What must be remembered is that they all require 

decent drainage holes (if this is impossible then a layer of 

rocks or Styrofoam peanuts at the bottom of the pot will 

work if a layer of fiberglass screen or landscape fabric 

is added on to prevent soil and plant roots from growing 

amongst the rocks) or the soil may retain water and roots 

can begin to rot. Drainage can be increased by raising 

the pot off the ground an inch or so with 'feet', wedges, or 

blocks. It is also important to keep in mind that the top of the 

plant is usually proportionate to the roots. Therefore, large 

tomatoes require a large pot otherwise they can become 

root-bound and will require constant watering. 

Wood is a very popular form of container because it is 

attractive, fairly lightweight, and blends in well with most 

homes. Woods like cedar provide some resistance to rot 

and are usually the best to use. Try to stay away from pressure 

treated woods or railroad ties as they emit chemicals 

that are harmful to plants. 

Clay, terracotta, and ceramic containers are often used. 

Indeed, few things look nicer than an herb garden or annual 

arrangement in a terracotta pot. The main drawback of 

ceramic is that it wicks water away from the soil because it 

is porous. As a result they may have to be watered more often. 

Always bring ceramic pots indoors or store somewhere 

dry during in the fall; our winter weather with its cycles of 

freezing and thawing can quickly destroy these pots. 

Another commonly used type of container is plastic. These 

are light, inexpensive, and usually have pre-drilled drainage 

holes (and if they don't it is easy to make your own). 

Be careful not to use dark or black pots for sun-loving 

plants. The dark color absorbs light and heats the soil, 

increasing water evaporation. 

If a permanent location has been selected, large containers 

made of concrete, iron, or metal can be used but always 

make sure they have proper drainage. A similar look can 

be achieved with lightweight foam pots. 

Soil 

Generally, it is not a good idea to use garden soil or top soil 

for containers planting. The high clay content of garden soil 

DeSiGn LAyoUt of A miXeD PLAnter 

Center Area 

Middle Area 

Edge Area 

Center Area Middle Area Edge Area 

Plant the tallest or largest 

plants to act as the focal point 

of your planter. Use one or 

two plants here. You can try 

canna lilies, tall marigolds, 

or the traditional dracaena 

spikes. 

Use lots of colorful plants with 

a ‘mounding’ growth habit to 

fill your container and provide 

early color. Try geraniums, 

pansies, petunias or any number 

of things. Be creative! 

Choose at least two differemt 

trailing plants to add texture 

and to soften the look of the 

container. Try bacopa, trailing 

lobelia or any plants with a 

trailing habit.

will not provide adequate drainage and is not conducive 

to root growth. If allowed to dry out, garden soil separates 

from the side of the pot and is hard to re-wet. Container 

plants should be grown in a light, airy soil capable of holding 

water and nutrients while at the same time draining 

easily. It is best to use a soil-less potting mix made up of 

peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite. There are even some 

mixes that are made specifically for container garden with 

moisture-retaining crystals and/or wetting agents. Adding 

charcoal will help to sweeten the soil. Finally, make sure 

the soil is only filled up to within two inches of the top of 

the pot to allow space for watering. 

Fertilizer 

Container-grown plants require a lot of water over the 

summer and this will flush out fertilizer quite quickly. This 

can be counteracted by mixing a slow-release fertilizer into 

the soil before planting. A consistent fertilizing program 

every two to four weeks as per the fertilizer instructions 

will keep the plants fed if a slow-release fertilizer is not an 

option. Make sure you do not over-fertilize. The salts and 

nitrogen in fertilizer can easily burn tender roots. 

Water 

Careful watering is perhaps the single-most important 

aspect of container gardening. In a normal summer containers 

dry out faster than the ground (hanging baskets dry 

out even faster) because they are exposed to the drying 

effects of the wind and the sun. Containers will require 

watering at least two to three times per week during a 

normal season. In wet periods water less or the roots will 

sit in water. In dry times water more often, up to twice a 

day for some plants. To tell if watering is required watch for 

HeLPfUL DeSiGn tiPS 

Foliage plants provide colour, leaf shape and texture. 

Use plenty of them. 

Don’t be afraid to cutback or trim faster growing plants 

that may ruin your original design. 

Mix Zeolite into the soil when planting. Zeolite will help 

the soil retain water. 

Use more plants than seem to be needed. Containers 

will look better and bloom longer. 

Start with flowers that are just about ready to flower. 

Use a variety of plant sizes. 

Water often! Containers tend to dry out quicker than 

you might expect. 

Use colourful foliage plants (like coleus) to ‘echo’ the 

colours of the flowers in your container. 

Add flowers of different shapes in your container to 

add interest. 

wilting or test the top inch or so of the soil. If it is dry then 

water until water flows out of the drainage holes. Some 

containers need to be watched more closely like terracotta, 

smaller pots, dark pots, and hanging baskets. 

Planting 

There are a few general tips for planting container gardens. 

For more specific information please refer to that 

particular section in the guide. Do not crowd too many 

plants together since they will require room to establish 

themselves. Remove dead flowers and prune back leggy 

plants to encourage bushy growth. Watch for insects 

and diseases on your container plants as the plants are 

stressed. Finally, be sure to stake climbing plants or rig 

up a trellis. If this is done use a very heavy pot or anchor 

the container to prevent it from blowing over. 

Annuals 

Annuals, lasting only a single season, are the most common 

plants found in containers. Flowers and foliage plants 

can be mixed or all of the same type. It is important when 

planting a mixed container that all plants have the same 

light requirements. Growth habits must also be considered; 

place tall plants like dracaena or canna lilies near 

the back or center and trailers and low-growing plants like 

petunias or bacopa on the outside of the planter. The following 

is a list of light requirements for commonly grown 

annuals. For further information on these plants refer to 

the annuals tables. NOTE: for Supertunias it is vital that 

they be watered daily. 

Sun 

Amaranthus Geranium - Ivy Minalobata 

Asarina Gomphrena Petunia 

Cobaea Hyacinth Bean Snapdragons 

Datura Sunflower - Dwarf Lavatera 

Marigolds Eccremocarpus Verbena 

Sun / Part Shade 

Alyssum Rhodochiton Bush Lantana 

Bacopa Lobelia Scaevola 

Calibrachoa Nasturtium Schizanthus 

Dracaena Nemesia Stock 

Fuchsia Sweet Potato Vine Nicotiana 

Godetia Petunias Thunbergia 

Phlox Kennilworth Ivy Vinca 

Shade 

Coleus Asparagus Fern Pansy 

Begonia Impateins Viola 

Browallia Mimulus 

AnnUALS 2

AnnUALS 

2 

AnnUALS ContAiner GArDeninG 

Vegetables 

Planting vegetables in container gardens can be fairly 

simple, convenient, and rewarding if a few steps are 

followed, though productivity will vary depending on variety 

and season. Vegetables require a sunny location and a 

large container. Root vegetables need a lot of soil while 

large plants like tomatoes require a lot of space for root 

development and to ensure that the soil does not dry out 

too quickly. The following is a list of vegetables that can 

do well in containers arranged by growth habit. Further 

information can be found in the vegetable section of this 

guide. 

Climbing / Trailing 

Cucumber Summer Squash Peas 

Muskmelon Pole Beans 

Root Vegetables 

Beets Green Onions Radishes 

Carrots Parsnips Turnips 

Leaf Vegetables 

Cabbage Lettuce 

Kale Swiss Chard 

Others 

Bush Beans Tomatoes (dwarf and determinate) 

Bush Peas Eggplant Peppers (hot and sweet) 

Summer-Flowering Bulbs 

Spring-flowering bulbs like tulips and daffodils rarely 

survive a winter in a container. However, summer-flowering 

bulbs, corms, tubers, etc. do very well in large containers 

for the growing season. Try dahlias (especially dwarf 

varieties), begonias, glads and specialty bulbs such as 

the climbing gloriosa lily. 

Herbs 

A very popular container-grown crop, fresh herbs can be 

grown close to the back door for convenient harvest as 

long as there is sufficent light. Please see the herb section 

for details. 

Sun 

Anise Oregano Basil 

Feverfew Rosemary Borage 

Horseradish Sage Chives 

Hyssop Savory Dill 

Lavender Thyme - lemon Fennel 

Verbena - Lemon Marjoram 

Sun / Part Shade 

Bay/Laurel Cilantro Rue 

Caraway Comfrey Sorrel 

Garlic Catmint/Catnip Tarragon 

Chamomile 

Shade 

Thyme - Common Lemon Balm 

Chervil Mint Parsely Sweet Woodruff 

Perennials, Shrubs, Bulbs, etc. 

Generally plants do not do well when left in containers over 

the winter in Calgary. Our fluctuating winter temperatures 

are the main problem; the soil freezes and thaws, either 

encouraging growth and then killing it or destroying roots 

and bulbs. Soil temperatures in the ground are much more 

consistent, protecting roots from winter damage. 

However, there are exceptions to this rule. Larger 

containers with more soil will shelter plant roots. Adding an 

insulating material like Styrofoam lining before planting will 

also help. Only very hardy native species like potentillas 

do well. It is important to water the plants in the containers 

well before the ground freezes in the fall. This ensures 

moisture during warm, dry winter periods. Even following 

this method will not guarantee that plants will overwinter. 

The end result is completely dependent on severity of the 

weather, the plants' location, the type of container used, 

the size of the plant, etc.

Geraniums are one of the most popular and commonly 

used bedding out plants. Geraniums are available in a 

wide range of colors from red, scarlet, pink, coral, salmon, 

peach, orange, lavender, to white. Geraniums are used in 

many areas in the yard, including flower beds, pots, planters, 

and hanging baskets. 

Types 

1. Zonal - Pelargonium hortorum 

Aptly named because of red zones on leaves. 

2. Martha Washington - Pelargonium domesticum 

Plant has fancy flowers. 

3. Ivy - Pelargonium peltatum 

Trailing plant is suitable for hanging baskets. 

Care & Culture 

Most geraniums prefer full sunlight in a west or south 

location, needing approximately 6 hrs. of sun each day. 

Martha Washington geraniums prefer partial shade in a 

north or east orientation. For watering, keep the soil moist 

until the roots are established, after which geraniums are 

considered to be semi-drought tolerant. Fertilize every 

week or two during the growing season with a complete 

fertilizer such as 20-30-20. 

Overwintering 

Geraniums may be kept from year to year, as they are 

technically perennials grown as annuals. There are 3 

methods of overwintering geraniums: 

AnnUALS GerAniUmS 

1. It may be treated like an indoor house plant, giving it 

as much light as possible in a south or west window. If the 

plant gets stretched out or spindly in winter, prune it back 

by pinching off the large, lanky leaves and long stems. 

2. The second method involves lifting the plant out of the 

pot, shaking off as much soil as possible, and storing it in 

a cool, dark box. Keep the roots covered with a moist cloth 

which maintains the plant’s life at a bare minimum. 

3. Another method is also shaking the soil off the root 

system and then storing the plant upside down in a garage 

or other area where the temperature hovers just above 

freezing. With the last two methods plant in pots in early 

March and water with a high phosphorus fertilizer like 

Plant-prod 10-52-10 to initiate root growth. With all of the 

above three methods, plant the geraniums outside at the 

end of May when the danger of frost is over. 

AnnUALS GerAniUm CUttinGS 

Preparation 

Take cuttings, applying rooting hormone on unrooted 

cuttings will aid in rooting uniformly. Even the smallest 

excess of hormones may cause severe damage use 

sparingly. 

Air Temperature 

Temperatures of 15-20 degrees Celsius should be 

maintained during rooting. Ideally the cutting should receive 

bottom heat to keep the planting media temperature at 

20-22 degrees Celsius. 

Watering Cuttings 

Moisten just enough to prevent wilting. Excessive misting 

can leach nutrients from the cuttings or create conditions for 

Botrytis infections to develop. There is a fine line between 

wet and dry. Change duration of misting. Short bursts are 

better. Stop misting after six days. Shading for first couple 

of weeks helps The cuttings can receive full sunlight as 

soon as they develop roots. 

Fertilizer 

Can be applied two weeks after planting. Fertilize with 10- 

52-10, and as always read the label. 

Ventilation 

To prevent Botrytis keep humid air moving using a 

horizontal fan. Keep leaves dry at night. 

Fungicides 

Use No Damp two weeks after planting or when rooting 

occurs. Cleaning off old leaves and dis-budding will also 

control disease. When rooted out put into 4” or 6” pots in 

professional planting mix. 

AnnUALS 2

AnnUALS 

26 

BeDDinG oUt PLAntS 

Names 

Height/ 

Spread 

Uses 

Flower 

Color(s) 

Features 

all annuals listed subject to seasonal 

and supplier availability 

Sun 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

Indoor/ 

Outdoor 

Seed Date 

AFRICAN DAISY 12/8 in. beds, borders, orange, Dark eyed, daisy flowers; » Mar. 20-28 seed 

Dimorphotheca species 30/20 cm mass planting yellow also called cape marigold May 1-10 trans. 

AGERATUM 6/10 in. borders, beds blue,red, Compact mound of Feb. 20-28 seed, 

(Floss Flower) 15/25 cm mass planting white fluffy flower clusters May 1-15 trans. 

ALYSSUM, SWEET 8/10 in. border, purple, Compact mound of dainty » Mar. 15-30 seed, 

Lobularia maritima 20/25 cm edging plant white flowers, excellent edging plant May 1-10 trans. 

ASTER, CHINA 12/8 in. beds, borders, purple, Late summer blooming; flower Mar. 15-30 seed, 

Callistephus chinensis 30/20 cm mass planting pink forms are daisy and pompom May 1-10 trans. 

BABY’S BREATH 12/12 in. beds, borders, white, Profuse sprays of May 15-30 seed, 

Gysophila elegans 30/30 cm bouquets pink dainty delicate flowers May 1-10 trans. 

BEGONIA, WAX 8/6 in. beds, borders, red, pink, Colorful clusters of flowers; Feb. 1-28 seed, 

Begonia semperflorens 20/15 cm planters white fleshy leaves and fibrous roots n/a trans. 

BEGONIA, TUBEROUS 14/12 in. planters, pots, red, pink, Large showy double flowers; n/a trans- 

Begonia tuberhybrida 35/30 cm specimen yellow plant tuberous root after last frost n/a plant 

BELLS OF IRELAND 24/12 in. borders, green, & Tiny white flowers in green bells; Mar. 1-15 seed 

Moluccella laevis 60/30 cm cut flowers white square stems, toothed leaves Apr. 20-30 

BRACHYCOME 10/10 in. planters, pots, purple, Daisy-like flowers are Mar. 1-15 seed 

(Swan River Daisy) 25/25 cm hanging baskets gold eye suitable in all containers May 1-15 trans. 

BROWALLIA 14/12 in. planters, pots, violet Trumpet-shaped blossoms; Feb. 20-28 seed, 

Browallia speciosa 35/30 cm hanging baskets likes sheltered, shaded situation May 1-15 trans. 

CARNATION 12/8 in. beds, borders, various Strong stemmed, Jan. 1-15 trans- 

Dianthus caryophyllus 30/20 cm cut flowers mixed fragrant flowers n/a plant 

CELOSIA 12/6 in. beds, borders, various Feathery, plumed, or crested, Apr. 20-30 trans- 

(Cockscomb) 30/15 cm planters mixed comb-like large flowers n/a plant 

CENTAUREA 18/10 in. beds, borders, true blue, True blue flowers readily reseed Feb. 15 seed 

(Bachelor’s Button) 45/25 cm mass planting pink also called cornflower Apr. 15 

COLEUS 18/10 in. beds, borders, colored Combo. of multi-colored leaves, Mar. 1-15 seed, 

Coleus x hybridus 45/25 cm planters foliage also called flame nettle n/a trans. 

COSMOS 36/24 in. background pink Tall plant with feathery foliage, Apr. 1-10 seed, 

Cosmos bipinnatus 90/60 cm of border easily grown from seed May 10-20 trans. 

DAHLIA 14/10 in. beds, pots, various Late summer blooming; Mar. 10-20 seed, 

Dahlia pinnata 35/25 cm borders mixed tuberous root May 10-20 trans. 

DATURA 4/2 ft. back of border white, Exotic plant, large trumpet Mar. 10-20 seed, 

Datura pinnata 1/.5 m specimen in pot yellow flowers also called thorn apple n/a trans. 

DIANTHUS-China Pink 12/8 in. beds, borders, red, pink, Fragrant fringed flowers similar Mar. 1-10 seed, 

Dianthus chinensis 30/20 cm mass planting white to carnations or sweet william n/a trans. 

DRACAENA SPIKES 24/24 in. planters, pots, foliage Rosette of sword shaped leaves; » n/a trans- 

Cordyline indivisa 60/60 cm specimen plant plant in center of container n/a plant 

African Daisy Dahlia 

Begonia Celosia 

Datura 

Cosmos 

Dianthus Ageratum 

Seed/ 

Transplant

all annuals listed subject to seasonal 


Names 

Height/ 

Spread 

Uses 

DUSTY MILLER 12/8 in. border, silvery Colored foliage plant Feb. 1-10 seed, 

Centaurea cineraria 30/20 cm edging plant foliage with hairy, divided leaves n/a trans. 

GAZANIA 12/12 in. beds, borders, yellow, Similar to African daisy; Feb. 10-20 seed, 

Gazania splendens 30/30 cm planters orange also called treasure flower n/a trans. 

GERANIUM-Pelargonium 20/20 in. planters, beds, pots red, pink, 4 types: zonal, ivy, seed » Jan. 10-15 seed, 

hortor-domestic-paltatum 50/50 cm hanging baskets white or Martha Washington n/a trans. 

GODETIA/CLARKIA 18/12 in. beds, borders, red, pink, Showy, satiny, » Apr. 10-20 seed, 

Satin Flower 45/30 cm mass planting white cup-like blossoms May 10-20 trans. 

IMPATIENS 10/10 in. planters, borders, red, pink, Succulent stems, spur flowers; Feb 15-20 seed, 

(Garden Balsam) 25/25 cm hanging baskets white for sheltered, shaded sites n/a trans. 

KALE-Ornamental 16/16 in. beds, borders, pink &/or Colorful rosette of foliage; edible, Apr. 10-20 seed, 

Brassica oleracea 40/40 cm specimen white color shows in cool temp. in Sept. May 1-10 trans. 

LANTANA 18/18 in. specimen orange, Place outside after last frost; » n/a trans- 

Lantana camara 45/45 cm in container yellow does well in hot, dry area n/a plant 

LAVATERA 36/24 in. back of border, pink, Large, showy, cup-like flowers; Apr. 1-10 seed, 

Lavatera trimestris 90/60 cm pots white resembles hibiscus & hollyhock May 10-20 trans. 

LIVINGSTONE DAISY 6/6 in. borders, planters, pink, red, Daisy-like flowers; succulent; Mar. 15-30 seed, 

Mesembryanthemum 15/15 cm hanging baskets lavender good for windy, hot, dry area May 1-10 trans. 

LOBELIA 4/6 in. borders, planters, true blue, Both trailing and compact forms » Feb. 20-28 seed, 

Lobelia erinus 10/15 cm hanging baskets red,white with delicate flowers for edging n/a trans. 

MARIGOLD, AFRICAN 30/12 in. background of bed, orange, Tall plants with lacy leaves and Apr. 1-15 trans- 

Tagetes erecta 75/30 cm cut flowers yellow large flowers that repel insects May 15-30 plant 

MARIGOLD, FRENCH 16/6 in. borders, beds, yellow, Combos. of bicolor flowers; Apr. 10-20 seed, 

Tagetes patula 40/15 cm mass planting orange includes Dwarf Boy Series May 15-25 trans. 

MARIGOLD, POT 12/8 in. beds, borders, yellow, Similar looking to true marigolds; Apr. 10-20 seed, 

Calendula officinalis 30/20 cm cut flowers orange flowers reseed readily May 15-25 trans. 

MIMULUS 10/6 in. beds, borders, red & Suitable for moist shaded area; Mar. 15 seed. 

(Monkey Flower) 25/15 cm mass planting yellow flowers mimic monkey faces May 15-20 trans. 

NASTURTIUM 10/10 in. beds, borders, yellow, Dwarf plants with edible foliage » Apr 1-10 seed, 

Tropaeolum majus 25/25 cm planters orange and round peltate leaves May 1-10 trans. 

NEMESIA 10/6 in. beds, borders, various Clusters of flowers with » Mar. 10-20 seed, 

Nemesia strumosa 25/15 cm mass planting mixed lower bearded petals May 10-20 trans. 

NICOTIANA 16/10 in. beds, borders, red, wine, Fragrant, star-shaped flowers; » Mar. 1-10 seed, 

Nicotiana alata 40/25 cm cut flowers rose also called flowering tobacco May 1-10 trans. 

PANSY 6/6 in. border, beds, various Hardy, frost tolerant, short plants Feb. 1-10 seed, 

Viola tricolor 15/15 cm edging plant mixed for shaded, moist areas n/a trans. 

PETUNIA 16/8 in. borders, beds, wide Most popular annual flowers; » Feb. 15-20 trans- 

Petunia hybrida 40/20 cm planters, baskets range spreading or cascading growth May 10-20 plant 

Livingstone Daisy 

Gazania 

BeDDinG oUt PLAntS 

Flower 

Color(s) 

Features 

Indoor/ 

Outdoor 

Seed Date 

Seed/ 

Transplant 

Nicotiana Nemesia 

Lavatera 

Sun 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

AnnUALS 2

AnnUALS 

2 

HAnGinG BASKetS all 

Sun 

Name Features Flower 

Part Shade » 

Color 

Shade 

BACOPA » Shade tolerant annual white 

annuals listed subject to seasonal 


Satura cordata 

BEGONIA,Tuberous Showy, large, double flowers; pink, red, 

Begonia tuberhybrida shade Illumination & Non-Stop series orange 

CALIBRACHOA » Small pastel colored petunia-like blue,pink 

(Million bells) blooms likes lots of water and food or white 

COLEUS » Combo. of multi-colored leaves; colored 

Coleus hybridus Minter Rainbow cultivar foliage 

FUCHSIA » Drooping bicolored flowers; red, white 

Fuchsia hybrida bring woody shrub indoors in fall & purple 

GERANIUM, IVY Hanging or climbing stems, red, pink 

Pelargonium peltatum durable plant with divided leaves or white 

IMPATIENS Popular annual hangers; wide 

Garden Balsam Accent and Rosebud series range 

SCAEVOLA » Creeping herbaceous perennial; blue 

Scaevola aemula Blue Wonder variety 

SUPERTUNIAS » Abundant pastel flowers; wide 

Petunia hybrida lots of water and fertilizer each day!!! range 

VERBENA Flower clusters; keep wet!; various 

Verbena hybrida hairy, toothed, lanceolate leaves 

Hanging Baskets 

Frost Tolerant Annuals 

Centaurea Pansy 

Dianthus Petunia 

Dracaena Snapdragon 

Dusty Miller Viola 

Kale 

Frost Sensitive Annuals 

Ageratum Lavatera 

Amaranthus Marigold 

Begonia Mesembryanthemum 

Dahlia Portulaca 

Gazania Statice 

Geranium Strawflower 

Impateins Verbena 

Lantana Zinnia

AnnUALVineS all annuals listed subject to seasonal 


Sun 

Indoor Seed or 

Names Ht. Use Flower 

Color 

Features Part Shade » 

Shade 

Seed 

Date 

Transplant 

ASARINA- 7 ft. hangers, planters, pink Trailing vine with large, Feb. trans. 

MYSTIC PINK 2 m. trellis trumpet-shaped flowers 15-28 

CANARY BIRD VINE 7 ft. vine coverage on yellow Annual climber with » May seed, 

Tropaeolum peregrinum 2 m. fence or trellis (with cut petals) 5-lobed leaves 10-20 

COBAEA SCANDENS 12 ft. trellis, violet Bell-shaped flowers n/a trans. 

(Purple Climber) 4 m. hanging basket with green sepals 

CREEPING JENNY 4 in. planters, yellow Creeping perennial » n/a trans. 

Lysimachia nummularia 10 cm. hanging basket or ground cover 

ECCREMOCARPUS 10 ft. hangers, planters, yellow, orange, 2 cm. tubular blooms Mar. trans. 

(Chilean Glory Vine) 3 m. trellis screening red 1-15 

HYACINTH BEAN 10 ft. hangers, planters, Lilac flowers form Twining climber with Mar. trans. 

Dolichos lablab 3 m. trellis purple edible pods triangular leaves 1-15 

KENILWORTH IVY- 24 in. bed, border, planter, single, tiny pink Profusion of small » Feb. 

Cymbalaria muralis 60 cm. hanging basket, pot blooms leafed foliage 15-20 trans. 

MINA LOBATA 12 ft. planters, red, orange, Twining climber; Mar. trans. 

(Spanish Flag) 4 m. hanging basket yellow 3 flower colors same time 

MOON VINE 10 ft. trellis screening white Large 15 cm. fragrant Mar. trans. 

Calonyction aculeatum 3 m. flowers open at night 20-31 

MORNING GLORY- 10 ft. trellis screening blue Large 10-15 cm. trumpet- Mar. trans. 

(Heavenly Blue) 3 m. shaped flowers 20-31 

PETUNIA -Super 4 ft. planters, blues,pinks 6 cm. flower n/a trans. 

cascadias, surfinia 1.2 m. hanging basket 

RHODOCHITON- 7 ft. hanger, planter, purple bell-shaped flowers » Mar. trans. 

Purple Bells 2 m. houseplant 20-31 

SCARLET RUN. BEAN 7 ft. screens, trellis, red Vine with flower clusters; n/a seed 

Phaseolus coccineus 2 m. posts edible beans 

SWEET PEA 10 ft. screens, pink, white, blue, Old-fashioned favorite » n/a seed, 

Lathyrus odoratus 3 m. beds red, cream, purple with fragrant flowers trans. 

THUNBERGIA ALATA 3 ft. planters, orange or yellow Arrow shaped leaves; » April seed, 

Black Eyed Susan Vine 1 m. hanging basket with dark center individually borne flowers 10-20 trans. 

VINCA MAJOR 3 ft. hanger accent, blue Variegated trailing foliage; » n/a trans. 

(Greater Periwinkle) 1 m. planter cousin to Vinca minor 

AnnUALS 2

AnnUALS 

0 

AnnUALS HerBS 

Names 

Annual, 

Biennial, 

Perennial 

Culinary Cuisine Uses 

Sun 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

all herbs listed subject to seasonal 


Indoor/ 

Outdoor 

seed date 

Days From 

Seed to 

Harvest 

Seed/ 

Transplant 

ANISE annual Licorice flavored seeds for Anisette liqueur, May 15-30 70-75 seed 

Pimpinella anisum baking and white meat n/a trans 

BASIL annual Pungent flavor for tomato sauces; 6 varieties May 15-30 80-85 seed 

Ocimum basilicum including Sweet, Purple and Lemon types n/a trans 

BAY/LAUREL woody Bay leaves flavor soup and stew; » n/a 

Laurus nobilis also available as indoor tropical plant n/a trans 

BORAGE biennial Leaves are used in salads; May 15-30 80-85 seed 

Borago officinalis edible blue flowers self seed n/a 

CARAWAY biennial Seeds flavor bread and cheese; » n/a seed 

Carum carvi resembles carrot or dill May 15-30 2nd year 

CATGRASS Oats perennial Cat treat; » n/a 15-20 seed 

plant indoors in pot or outdoors May 10-20 

CATMINT/CATNIP perennial Cat treat or soothing tea; » May 10-20 75-80 seed 

Nepeta cataria in mint family with square stems n/a trans 

CHAMOMILE, German annual Relaxing, soothing tea; » May 10-20 20-30 seed 

Matricaria recutita white daisies readily re-seed n/a 

CHERVIL annual Gourmet parsley for salad garnish; » May 15-30 70-80 seed 

Anthriscus cerefolium one of the four fine French herbs n/a 

CHIVES perennial Mild, onion-like flavor to salad, sauce & soup; May 15-30 80-85 seed 

Allium schoenoprasum attractive purple flowers n/a trans 

CHIVES, Garlic perennial Mild garlic flavor to salad, sauce & soup; May 15-30 85-90 seed 

Allium tuberosum attractive white flowers n/a trans 

CILANTRO/Coriander annual Leaves are also called Chinese parsley; » May 10-20 20-30 seed 

Coriandrum sativum seed is called coriander n/a trans 

COMFREY perennial Once used as a poultice on » n/a 60-90 

Symphytum officinale cuts, bruises and broken bones May 10-30 trans 

DILL, Fernleaf annual Tangy tasting pickles, salad, sauce & stew; May 15-30 60-70 seed 

Anethum graveolens a dilly of an herb that self seeds! n/a trans 

ECHINACEA perennial Also called coneflower, Apr. 1-15 120 seed 

Echinacea angustifolia strengthens immune system n/a trans. 

FENNEL annual Mild anise/licorice flavor to May 10-20 80-90 seed, 

Foeniculum vulgare salad, sauce & fish n/a 

FEVERFEW perennial Put in salad or soup to May 10-30 80-90 seed, 

Matricaria parthenium prevent migraine headaches n/a trans. 

GARLIC annual Popular sulphur flavoring to meat & veg. dishes » May 1-15 100-120 bulb 

Allium sativum allegedly wards off evil vampires! n/a cloves 

GARLIC, Elephant annual Nutty, milder garlic flavor; » May 1-15 100-120 bulb 

Allium ampeloprasum good grilled or roasted veggie n/a 

HORSE RADISH perennial Hot condiment on beef and pork; May 1-15 100-120 bulb, 

Armoracia rusticana tuberous roots n/a 

HYSSOP perennial Bitter taste to salad, soup or stew; May 10-30 30-60 seed, 

Hyssopus officinalis blue flower spikes n/a 

LAVENDER, English hardy Fragrant flowers for bouquets, Mar. 1-10 100-120 seed, 

Lavendula angustifolia perennial baths, potpourris and sachets n/a trans. 

LAVENDER, French tender Fragrant flowers for bouquets, Mar. 1-10 100-120 

Lavendula dentata perennial baths, potpourris and sachets n/a trans. 

LEMON BALM perennial Balmy lemon flavored tea, » Apr. 10-20 90-100 seed, 

Melissa officinalis salad garnish n/a trans. 

LEMON VERBENA tender Zesty lemon flavor to hot or cold n/a 

Aloysia triphylla perennial desserts, dishes or drinks n/a trans 

MARJORAM, Sweet annual Strong flavor to meat and veggie dishes; Apr. 10-20 80-85 seed, 

Origanum majorana closely related to oregano n/a 

MINT/Peppermint perennial Strong, hot flavored tummy tea, lamb, jelly & Apr. 1-10 80-85 seed, 

Mentha piperita dessert; plant has square stems May 1-10

AnnUALS HerBS Sun 

Names 

Annual, 

Biennial, 

Perennial 

Culinary Cuisine Uses 

MINT/Spearmint perennial Cool, mild flavored Mint Julep and lamb; » Apr. 1-10 80-85 seed 

Mentha spicata square stems with pebbled, pointed leaves May 1-10 

OREGANO tender Sharp flavor to Italian pizza & pasta sauce » Apr. 10-20 60-80 seed, 

Origanum vulgare perennial or Mexican dishes; Greek & common types n/a trans 

PARSLEY, Curled biennial Curled leaf garnish type; Apr. 1-15 70-90 seed, 

Petroselinum crispum replant every year May 15-30 trans 

PARSLEY, Italian biennial Plain leaf cooking type; » Apr. 1-15 70-90 seed, 

Petroselinum neopolitanum replant every year May 15-30 trans 

ROSEMARY tender Mediterranean herb in meat & veggie dishes; » n/a seed, 

Rosemarinus officinalis perennial blue flowers and evergreen, linear leaves May 10-20 75-85 trans 

RUE tender Bitter tasting herb to reputedly repel cats; » Apr. 15-30 70-90 

Ruta graveolens perennial toxic to pregnant women n/a trans 

SAGE perennial Strong flavor in stuffing, sausage & poultry; Apr. 10-20 80-85 seed, 

Salvia officinalis 4 varieties with purple flower spikes n/a trans 

SAVORY, Summer annual Strong, peppery flavor to beans and meat; n/a seed 

Saturega hortensis use fresh or dry leaves May 10-20 60-65 trans 

SAVORY, Winter perennial Strong, peppery flavor to beans and meat; n/a 

Saturega montana evergreen creeping plant May 10-20 60-65 trans 

SORREL, French perennial Sour lemon flavor to soup or salad; » May 1-15 60-90 seed 

Rumex acetosa also known as sour grass in Europe May 15-30 

SWEET WOODRUFF Perennial Sweet scented tea or wine; » n/a 

Galium odoratum great ground cover with white flowers n/a trans 

TARRAGON, French Perennial Anise/licorice flavor to salad or fish; » n/a 

Artemesia dracunculus another one of the four fine French herbs n/a trans 

TARRAGON, Russian perennial Mildly bitter anise flavor to salad or fish; » May 10-30 60-90 seed 

Artemesia dracunculus less versatile variety lacks aromatic oils n/a 

THYME, Common perennial Flavors soup, meat and veggie dishes; » Apr. 1-10 85-90 seed, 

Thymus vulgaris good ground cover n/a trans 

THYME, Lemon perennial Lemon fragrance to white meat dishes; Apr. 1-10 85-90 

Thymus citriodorus attractive green and gold variegated leaves n/a trans 

tiPS for SAVinG HerBS 

Harvest herbs just before the flower buds appear since this 

is when they are at their most flavorful. Using a sharp knife 

or scissors, cut the stem leaving at least four inches below a 

pair of leaves in order to ensure good regrowth. Wash herbs 

in cold running water and drain on paper towels. 

The easiest way to preserve your herbs is through air-drying 

at room temperature. For plants with long stems such as 

sage, parsley, and rosemary tie 6-8 stems together and 

hang upside down in a warm, dark place for approximately 

1-2 weeks. Use trays or screens for short-stemmed herbs 

like thyme and large-leafed herbs like basil. Store in a warm 

dark place until dry. 

Once the herbs are succussfully preserved keep in an 

airtight container in a cool, dark place as light and heat will 

destroy their flavour and color. 

Another method of preservation is freezing. This is 

especially useful for herbs that do not dry well such as dill, 

chives, and basil. Simply wash, chop, freeze, and thaw 

when needed. 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

all herbs listed subject to seasonal 


Indoor/ 

Outdoor 

seed date 

Days From 

Seed to 

Harvest 

Seed/ 

Transplant 

Basil 

AnnUALS 1

AnnUALS 

2 

WAter PLAntS yoUr qUeStionS 

Q: How deep should I plant my water lily? 

A: Your lily can survive with only one and a half inches of water 

above the crown of the plant. It will be more susceptible to adverse 

temperature swings in Calgary from day to night. The best location 

is in a quiet portion of the pool, away from any waterfalls, to a 

depth of eighteen inches from the bottom of the pot to the top of 

the water. If you follow these directions your lily will be safe even 

when there is a threat of frost. 

Q: What is the difference between marginal and bog 

plants? 

A: There is not a major difference - marginal plants need high 

humidity while bog plants need wet roots. The best place for 

marginal plants is on the edge of the pond; bog plants should be 

immersed in the water depending upon variety - follow instructions 

for individual plants. 

Q: Why can’t I get my water hyacinth to bloom? 

A: The hyacinth is a “tropical” plant which loves the heat. 

Unfortunately, the cool nights of Calgary are not conducive for 

blooming. These plants do well in crowded conditions which may 

help to encourage blooming. 

Q: Do I need to fertilize my water plants? 

A: Use pond tablets to feed your lilies at a rate of one tablet per 

plant per growing month. This provides the minor elements which 

are used up from your pond quite quickly. Nitrogen, phosphorous, 

and potassium, are in ample supply from your water source so 

there is no need to add any. 

Q: What type of soil do I use for my water plants? 

A: A rich clay loam, is preferred. “Top soil” by Homestead would 

be the best choice for planting all your water plants into. 

Q: Why are marginal / bog plants in such a small pot? 

A: This benefits the customer. Small pots are a much more 

economical altenative to the expensive larger potted plants. 

Q: Can I put water plants in a half oak barrel? 

A: Yes, but only a maximum of one lily, one floater, such as a 

hyacinth, or lettuce, and one bog plant. Don’t forget to top up 

water lost through evaporation. 

Q: How many water plants should I put in my pond? 

A: You can use one lily per 5 square feet of pond surface area, 

one bog plant per one square foot, and one bundle of oxygenating 

plants such as hornwort per 18 cubic feet (3’x3’x2’). Floaters, 

including surface area covered by bog and lily, can equal up to 

60% of the total surface area. 

Q: What do I do with the plants when winter comes? 

A: If the pond is to be drained at the end of the season and all the 

bog plants and lilies are in their own containers make sure you 

leave the plants in their own containers. Floaters and oxygenators 

are not in containers so they’ll need to be treated differently. 

A) Lilies- Lift the entire plant, pot and all, and place in a dark, 

plastic bag. Store the lily in the bag in a cool location, with the bag 

slightly draped closed not twist-tied shut. Place moist sphagnum 

moss around the crown of the plant, on the soil surface. Keep this 

moss wet, checking at least every two to three weeks. Once the 

foliage has died back, remove. Keep in this location until March of 

the following year. At this time place in bucket of water and cover 

one and a half inches above the crown. Give the plant a pond 

tablet. Bring into a higher light, warmer location. Place into pond 

when frost is unlikely at a minimum depth 18”. 

B) Bog plants once lifted out of the pond can be “heeled-in”, 

which is digging a trench deep enough to cover the pot up to 

four inches above the crown of the plant. Backfill the trench 

after soaking the roots, leave the foliage on the plants until they 

are totally brown and dead, then remove. In the spring dig up 

once the soil has thawed and bring into a warmer and brighter 

location. Water well, and keep them standing in a saucer, which 

is constantly filled with water. 

C) Marginal plants which can be planted along the edge of the 

pond will need a four inch mulch layer after being well watered 

before the big freeze of winter sets in. Their survival will depend 

upon the plants’ hardiness zone. 

D) Floaters, water hyacinth and lettuce, will need to be brought 

in before they are touched by frost. To over-winter they will need 

to have their free-floating root system planted into ‘top soil’, 

and placed in a high light window, south preferred for the winter 

months. 

E) Hornwort- the best place for it to over winter if the pond is 

to be drained is in an aquarium type setting with 12-14 hours of 

flourescent light a day. 

Q: How do I control the algae? 

A: A little amount (a thin coating) is fine but when it gets to the 

point where a film, or what is known as filamentous algae, has 

grown it is time to scoop it out. Follow the 3’x3’x2’ cubic footage 

space needs for the hornwort bundles in order to have enough 

oxygenating plants for the area. Have the water pass through a 

filter system, which is maintained, skim off the garbage from the 

top to keep the surface as clean as possible, and if you have fish 

don’t overfeed.

Pond Basics 

PonDinStALLAtion 

Water features, such as ponds and fountains, have recently become very popular . The sound of running water is soothing and 

an attractively landscaped pool with some fish, water plants (even water lilies!), and a waterfall or fountain can be a beautiful addition 

to your garden. The most important first step is to decide where your pond is to be located, and how it is to be constructed. 

Things to consider are: 

Pond size should be as large as the site and your budget will allow. Larger volumes of water do not change temperature as 

quickly. Depth is most practical at 18-23 inches. A pool 24 or more inches deep requires, by law, a lockable, 6 foot fence. If plants, 

particularly water lilies, are to be included, at least 6 hours of sunlight daily is necessary. Locate your pond where it can be seen 

and heard from both inside your home and seating areas of your garden. Try to avoid locating under decidous trees, as leaves 

dropping into the pond are a nuisance. An electrical supply is necessary for a pump and possible lighting. 

Choosing the Pond 

Pre-formed ponds are the easiest to install but are limited in 

size and shape. Heavy butyl liners are more of a challenge 

to install, but give you unlimited flexibility and design. Poured 

concrete is not practical in Alberta. With our fluctuations in 

temperature, they crack too easily. 

Installing a Pond 

Choose site and outline area with garden hose to visualize 

shape and orientation. Excavate area and line with old carpet, 

or layers of newspaper, then add sand to cushion the liner. 

Pre-formed ponds are set into the hole so that the lip is just 

at soil level. Liners are draped into the hole and neatly folded 

at curves to fit. 

Add water as you shape the liner to help it settle into the 

pond. 

Be sure the pool is level. Use a board across it with a carpenter's 

level. If the pond is not level, the water will still be level, so 

it will look unbalanced. Edge the pond with appropriate material 

for your garden. It might look best with rock edging if rock is 

used elsewhere in the area. If there are other wood features 

such as a deck close by, it could look best with wood edging. 

Water Garden Plants 

Oxygenators help filter the water and utilize nutrients that algae 

otherwise use, so their utilization cuts down on algae formation. 

They float on the water surface. Floating plants, and potted 

plants with floating leaves such as water lilies, cover a portion 

of the water surface, so also cut down on algae production by 

eliminating sunlight on the water. They also are very attractive 

additions to the pond. Marginal plants, in pots on shelves or 

upturned pots in the pool at the edges, grow in soil, and add a 

natural appearance to the pond. Plants around a pond should 

look appropriate, but often mimic what would normally grow in 

a bog around a natural pond. The area surrounding an artificial 

pond is usually dry, so bog plants do not do well. 

Fish 

Fish add a fascinating aspect to a pond, with their movement 

and color. Goldfish do well in a pool over the summer, and are 

inexpensive. Koi are more expensive, have beautiful coloration, 

grow to be large fish and become somewhat tame. Fish also 

eat mosquito larvae. 

HoW to inStALL 

Overwintering 

Once there has been a frost, water plants and fish should be 

brought indoors. Neither can survive outdoors over the winter. Once foliage has died back remove and keep remainder in a loosely 

tied plastic bag with a damp rootball, in a cold but frost-free place until spring. Check the rootball periodically to be sure it hasn't 

dried out. Some tropical water plants may be kept in water under artificial lights for the winter. If an appropriate place is not available 

to store plants over the winter (we don't always have cold basements anymore), it is best to consider them as annuals and 

replace them in the spring. Fish can be kept in an aquarium indoors for the winter. It will need a filter, but not a light or heater. 

AnnUALS

AnnUALS 

AnnUALS WAter PLAntS all water plants listed subject to 

seasonal and supplier availability 

Floating Plants Latin Name Description 

Hornwort Ceratophyllum Submerged feathery foliage; good oxygenator 

Water Hyacinth Eichornia Fleshy floater with occasional lavender flowers 

Water Lettuce Pistia Looks like small floating cabbage 

Marginal Plants Latin Name Description 

Arrowhead Sagittaria Arrow-shaped leaves, white flowers 

Buttercup, Creeping Ranunculus Bright yellow flowers, creeping stems 

Cardinal Flower Lobelia Red or blue trumpet-shaped flowers 

Cattail, Miniature Typha Miniature brown cattails, slender leaves 

Creeping Jenny Lysimachia Bright yellow flowers, small round leaves, trailing stems 

Iris, Blue or Yellow Flag Iris Blue or yellow flowers on these stunning specimens 

Marsh Marigold Caltha Golden yellow flowers, serrated leaves 

Monkey Flower Mimulus Yellow or pink, snapdragon-like flowers 

Palm, Umbrella or Papyrus Cyperus Tall plant with umbrella-like foliage 

Pickerel Weed Pontederia Heart-shaped leaves, flower clusters 

Rush Juncus Narrow leaves, brown seed heads 

Sedge Carex Grass-like, arching leaves; brown seed heads 

Water Lilies Nymphaea Colours: pink, red, white, yellow

StArtinG SeeDS 

6 

StArtinG SeeDS yoUr qUeStionS 

Q: How deep should seeds be planted? 

A: Most seed packages give depth and spacing directions 

but a good rule of thumb is to plant at a depth of three 

times the width of the seed. Very small seeds can simply 

be pressed into the soil and not covered. 

Q: What causes young seedlings to collapse? 

A: The most common cause of this is lack of light or watering 

problems. If watering or lack of watering is not the 

cause then “damping off” (a fungus) is a possible cause. 

By using a sterile soil less mix and providing good air circulation, 

the risk is reduced. A fungicide called No Damp 

used at the time of planting or with early waterings will also 

protect the seedlings. 

Q: Why do seedlings started indoors tend to get tall 

and weak? 

A: Light conditions and temperatures indoors are often 

unsuitable for healthy growth. Young plants stretch toward 

light and are less robust when kept too warm. By using 

full spectrum fluorescent lights for 12-16 hours a day, kept 

about 4-6 inches(10-15 cm) above the plants, they should 

stay more compact. Temperatures should be kept at about 

15 degrees C at night and 20 degrees C during the day. 

Q: How often should seedlings be watered? 

A: The soil should be kept slightly moist. Light, temperature, 

growth and size of plant will affect how often watering 

should be done. High temperatures and strong sunlight 

will dry soil very quickly as will larger plants in small containers. 

Q: Should seedlings be fertilized? 

A: Once the young plants have their second set of true 

leaves they can be fed. Any fertilizer with a slightly higher 

phosphorous ( second number) level is fine. Follow package 

directions for mixing and frequency of feedings. 

Q: What is pricking out? 

A: The transplanting of seedlings is referred to as pricking 

out. When separating or moving small plants try to move 

as much soil as possible with the plants. Use a pencil or 

popsicle stick to lift plants and handle the plants by a leaf 

rather then the stem. Replant into individual containers at 

the same depth and form soil gently around plant. 

Q: What does ‘pinching’ mean? 

A: Pinching is a type of pruning. By removing the growth tip 

of plants they are encouraged to branch out. Many plants 

respond well to pinching but check on individual varieties 

as some are best left alone. 

Q: Can garden soil be used when starting seeds indoors? 

A: Garden soil can be very heavy and dense and may 

contain weed seeds or fungi. Generally it is best to use a 

sterile soil-less mix. A soil-less mix is usually a mix of peat 

moss, vermiculite, and perlite. This combination is light, 

porous, and works well when starting seeds and growing 

plants to maturity. 

Q: What is hardening off? 

A: This is the process of exposing plants to outdoor conditions 

gradually. About two weeks before placing plants 

in their final location put plants out in a shady spot for an 

hour or so. Each day increase time outside and exposure 

to sun. Protect plants from frost. 

Q: Why bother to grow things from seeds? 

A: Although seed prices have increased it is still far less 

expensive to grow plants from seed than to buy plants. 

The selections and varieties of seeds are much larger then 

that of plants, particularly annuals and vegetables. Growing 

plants from seed can be very rewarding. 

Q: I planted runner beans and would like to save the 

seeds for next year. How can I do this? 

A: Cut the beans from the vine and store in a cool dry place. 

When the pods have dried, remove the beans and store 

them in a cool dry place as well. This method wil also work 

for sweet peas and other legumes. For sweet peas lightly 

cover the container the pods are in with a piece of paper 

as the pods pop and you may have sweet pea seeds all 

over your basement! 

Q: What is ‘damping off’? How do I treat it? 

A: Damping off is a fungal disease that causes the seedlings 

to wither at the soil line and fall over. Using a sterile 

growing medium like soil-less mixes helps greatly to reduce 

this problem. Make sure you wash containers well if you 

plan to re-use them. Don’t overcrowd the seedlings and 

leave the tops of any indoor greenhouses slightly ajar to 

improve airflow. If this fails there are fungicides like No 

Damp available.

StArtinG SeeDSfLoWerS Flower Indoor Seeding Outdoor Seeding Germination Temperature Germination 

Time Time (Celsius) (days) 

African Daisy Mar 20 - 28 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 18 

Ageratum Feb 20 - 28 May 1 - 15 18 - 24 15 - 20 

Alyssum Mar 15 - 30 May 1 - 10 24 - 27 3 - 5 

Amaranthus Feb 20 - 28 - 18 - 24 15 - 20 

Aster Mar 1 - 15 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 15 

Aubretia Mar 15 - 30 May 10 - 20 16 - 22 18 - 25 

Baby’s Breath Mar 15 - 30 May 1 - 10 18 - 22 12 - 15 

Bachelor’s Button Mar 15 - 30 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 18 - 22 

Balsam Mar 1 - 20 May 1 - 15 18 - 24 12 - 15 

Begonia Feb 1 - 28 - 18 - 24 18 - 22 

Bells of Ireland Mar 1 - 15 - 10 - 13 25 - 35 

Canterbury Bells - May 15 - 30 22 -24 14 - 21 

Calendula Mar 20 - 30 May 1 - 10 17 - 23 12 - 15 

California Poppy - May 1 - 10 18 - 24 20 - 25 

Candytuft Mar 1 - 20 May 1 - 15 18 - 24 12 - 30 

Carnation Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 15 18 - 24 10 - 15 

Castor Bean Mar 15 - 20 May 10 - 20 22 - 26 12 - 18 

Celosia Mar 10 - 20 May 15 - 20 18 - 24 12 - 15 

Chinese Lantern Feb 1 - 28 May 1 - 20 18 - 24 18 - 24 

Christmas Pepper Apr 1 - Jun 15 - 23 - 27 20 - 28 

Cineraria Mar 1 - 15 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 12 - 15 

Chrysanthemum Mar 1 - 10 May 15 - 20 16 - 18 12 - 15 

Clarkia - May 10 - 20 18 - 24 12 - 18 

Cleome Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 13 - 27 15 - 20 

Coleus Mar 1 - 15 - 23 - 27 16 - 20 

Columbine Mar 1 - 15 - 18 - 24 28 - 36 

Cosmos Apr 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 6 - 12 

Cynoglossum Mar 15 - 20 May 20 - 30 22 - 24 7 - 14 

Dahlia Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 6 - 12 

Delphinium Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 13 - 18 18 - 25 

Dianthus Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 10 - 15 

Digitalis Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 6 - 10 

Dusty Miller Feb 1 - 10 - 19 - 23 6 - 10 

Euphorbia Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 18 - 22 

Four O’Clock - June 1 - 10 18 - 24 10 - 15 

Gaillardia Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 15 - 20 

Geranium Jan 10 - 25 - 22 - 24 12 - 18 

Geum Mar 1 - 10 Mar 15 - 30 22 - 24 28 - 30 

Godetia Apr 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 16 - 22 12 - 20 

Hollyhock May 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 15 - 18 10 - 12 

Impatiens Feb 15 - 20 - 21 - 24 18 - 22 

Larkspur Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 12 - 15 20 - 25 

Lathyrus(Sweet Pea) Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 15 

Lavatera - May 1 - 10 18 - 24 10 - 21 

Livingstone Daisy Mar 15 - 30 May 1 - 10 21 - 22 12 - 18 

Lobelia Feb 20 - 28 - 18 -24 15 - 20 

Lupine May July 12 - 14 14 - 16 

Marigold Mar 10 - 20 May 15 - 25 18 - 26 5 - 10 

Money Plant Mar 10 - 20 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 18 

Mimosa Mar 15 - 30 May 30 26 - 29 10 - 12 

Morning Glory Mar 15 - 30 May 20 18 - 24 10 - 14 

Nasturtium Apr 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 18 

StArtinG SeeDS

StArtinG SeeDS 

StArtinG SeeDS fLoWerS 

Flower Indoor Seeding Outdoor Seeding Germination Temperature Germination 

Time Time (Celsius) (days) 

Nemesia Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 13 - 15 15 - 20 

Nicotiana Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 20 - 26 15 - 20 

Night Scented Stock Mar 20 - 30 - 20 - 26 7 - 10 

Ornamental Cabbage - June 15 18 - 24 10 - 12 

Pansy Feb 1 - 10 - 21 - 24 8 - 15 

Petunia Feb 15 - 25 May 10 - 20 18 - 21 12 - 18 

Poppy Annual - May 15 - 30 18 - 21 10 - 14 

Poppy Iceland Mar 20 - 30 May 15 - 30 18 - 21 12 - 15 

Portulaca Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 18 - 21 12 - 18 

Salpiglossis Mar 15 - 25 May 10 -20 18 - 26 12 - 18 

Salvia Mar 1 - 10 - 24 - 26 12 - 18 

Scabiosa Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 12 - 18 

Schizanthus Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 15 - 21 15 - 18 

Shasta Daisy Mar 15 - 30 June 18 - 24 8 - 14 

Snapdragon Mar 1 - 15 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 10 - 15 

Statice Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 20 - 25 

Sunflower - May 10 - 20 21 - 26 12 - 18 

Sweet Pea - Apr 15 - 20 18 - 21 12 - 15 

Sweet William Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 18 - 21 10 - 15 

Verbena Feb 20 - 28 May 10 - 20 20 - 30 20 -25 

Vinca Feb - Mar - 18 - 24 15 - 25 

Viola Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 20 - 26 10 - 12 

Wallflower Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 20 20 - 26 10 - 14 

Wildflower mix - May 10 - 20 18 - 24 varies 

Zinnia Apr 1 - 10 May 20 - 30 20 - 26 5 - 12 

StArtinG SeeDS HerBS 

Herb Indoor Seeding Outdoor Seeding Approximate days 

Time Time from seeding to harvest 

Anise - May 15 - 30 70 - 75 

Basil - May 15 - 30 80 - 85 

Borage - May 15 - 30 80 - 85 

Catnip - May 10 - 20 75 - 80 

Chervil - May 15 - 30 70 - 80 

Chives - May 15 - 30 80 - 85 

Dill - May 15 - 30 70 - 75 

Lavender Mar 1 - 10 - 100 - 120 

Lemon Balm Apr 10 - 20 - 90 - 100 

Oregano Apr 10 - 20 - 60 - 80 

Peppermint Apr 1 - 10 - 80 - 85 

Rosemary - May 10 - 20 75 - 85 

Sage Apr 10 - 20 - 80 - 85 

Sweet Majoram Apr 10 - 20 - 80 - 85 

Summer Savory - May 10 - 20 60 - 65 

Thyme Apr 1 - 10 - 85 - 90

StArtinG SeeDS VeGetABLeS 

Vegetable Indoor Seeding Outdoor Seeding Approximate days from 

Time Time Seeding to harvest 

Beans - May 20 - 30 50 - 80 

Beets - May 10 - 20 50 - 60 

Brussel Sprouts Mar 15 - 30 - 90 - 100 

Cabbage Mar 20 - Apr 10 May 15 - 30 70 - 100 

Chinese Cabbage Mar 15 - 30 May 15 - 30 70 - 80 

Carrot - May 1 - 10 65 - 80 

Cauliflower May 10 - 20 May 15 - 30 55 - 75 

Cantaloupe Mar 15 - 30 - 110 - 120 

Celery Mar 15 - 30 - 120 - 130 

Corn - May 10 - 20 68 - 80 

Cucumber Mar 10 - 20 May 20 - June 10 55 - 65 

Chicory Apr 10 - 20 - 130 - 140 

Cress Anytime May 15 - July 31 10 - 2 0 

Eggplant May 10 - 20 - 80 - 100 

Borecole Kale - May 20 - 30 60 - 75 

Kohlrabi - May 10 - 20 60 - 70 

Leek Mar 20 - 30 May 10 - 20 60 - 90 

Lettuce - May 10 - 30 50 - 70 

Onion Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 30 90 - 110 

Okra Apr 30 - May 10 May 20 - 30 55 - 65 

Pak Choi - Apr 20 - 30 45 - 55 

Parsley - Apr 30 - May 10 70 - 90 

Parsnip - Apr 15 - 30 120 - 130 

Pea - Apr 15 - 30 60 - 75 

Pepper Mar 15 - 30 - 65 - 75 

Pumpkin Apr 15 - 30 - 90 - 100 

Radish - Apr 30 - July 15 20 - 30 

Spinach - Apr 30 - July 15 45 - 60 

Squash - May 15 - June 1 50 - 100 

Swiss Chard - May 1 - 15 55 - 65 

Swede Turnip - May 20 - June 10 70 - 90 

Strawberry Feb 15 - May 15 - 140 - 150 

Tomato Mar 15 - Apr 1 - 80 - 110 

Turnip - May 1 - 15 55 - 60 

Vegetable Marrow - May 15 - 30 85 - 100 

Watercress Anytime May 20 - 30 60 - 70 

Watermelon Apr 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 75 - 90 

fLUiD SoWinG 

Starting vegetable seeds indoors is usually a good idea, especially in our 

climate. It allows you to get a jump start on the season and reap the fruits of 

your labour faster. If you don’t get a chance to start the seeds indoors, have 

dry soil, or want to sow seeds in the summer months. Here’s a little trick you 

can try: 

Pre-germinate the seed on sheets of moist paper towel. When the roots are 

just showing, before the leaves open, mix the seeds with a half-strength, fungicide-free 

wallpaper paste or a special sowing gel. Put the mix into a plastic 

bag to prevent the paste oozing out, then squeeze out the mixture into the 

prepared seed drill as if you were icing a cake. This helps speed up germination 

and keeps the seeds moist while they get established. But don’t forget 

to keep them well watered. Most vegetables grow much better when there is 

plenty of water available. Check the seed packages if you are not sure. 

StArtinG SeeDS

VeGetABLeS 

0 

VeGetABLeS GettinG StArteD 

Planning a Vegetable Garden 

The environmental requirements for growing vegetables are 

quite simple. The best vegetable gardens are grown in sunny 

locations where the soil is moist and nutritious. 

In order to maximize the productivity of your garden plot you 

should first consider which vegetables your family enjoys 

most. It is senseless to waste valuable garden space on 

vegetables that no one is going to eat. Plan the planting 

order of your vegetable garden. Start with a sketch showing 

approximately where you want to locate each vegetable crop. 

Increase your gardens’ production potential by planting coolcrop 

vegetables such as broccoli and cabbage early in the 

spring. Use these early vegetables when they are mature and 

then re-plant the same spot with warm-weather, short-season 

crops such as lettuce and radish. Leave only enough space for 

development between low-growing vegetables such as radish, 

lettuce, and onion. Space can also be conserved by growing 

trailing vegetables such as cucumbers on trellises or other 

supports. Plant newly developed, dwarf vegetable varieties 

that require less space to grow than their larger, traditional 

counterparts. If ground space for a garden plot is not available 

vegetables can be grown in containers. Vegetables can also 

be effectively grown in combination with annuals. Be sure to 

organize the garden so that tall growing vegetables do not 

shade low growing vegetables. 

Planting Vegetables 

Soil Preparation: Spade or rototill the garden soil deeply 

to break the soil into small clods. Add 454 g (1 lb) of granular 

all purpose fertilizer per 30 sq m (37.5 sq yd) and turn the 

soil again. Rake the soil smooth and your garden is ready for 

planting. Improve the texture of heavy, clay-loam soils with 

additions of peat moss, compost, vermiculite, perlite, or sand. 

Do not work garden soil when it is wet. 

Pre-Planting Care: Due to the short length of our growing 

season many vegetables are available as bedding-out plants. 

Vegetable bedding-out plants that can not be planted the 

same day they are purchased should be watered and stored 

in a shady location to prevent excessive wilting. 

Planting vegetables from seed or bedding out 

plants: Sow vegetable seeds in moist soil, just dry enough 

to be workable. Vegetable seeds are generally sown three 

times as deep as their diameter. Cover the seeds with fine soil, 

compost, vermiculite, or sand. Gently remove vegetable bedding-out 

plants from their packs or flats. Plant them in moist 

soil deep enough to bury the root ball and a portion of the 

lower stem. Plant vegetables started in peat pots or expandable 

peat pellets in the same way. In these cases also bury 

the peat pot or pellet. When planting vegetable bedding-out 

plants be sure to leave adequate room for development. 

Watering: After sowing 

your vegetable seeds 

keep the garden soil 

consistently moist until 

the vegetable seedlings 

are established. Water 

freshly planted vegetable 

bedding-out plants 

thoroughly to give them 

a good start; use a starter fertilizer to establish a healthy 

root system. Thereafter, water your garden whenever the 

top 2.5-5 cm (1-2 in) of soil dries out. It is best to water early 

in the day. Keep plant foliage as dry as possible by watering 

at the soil level. Water droplets that remain on plant foliage 

overnight encourage the development of plant diseases. Do 

not rely on rain to water your vegetable garden sufficiently. It 

is important to observe the condition of your garden often to 

ensure continued growth and productivity. 

Post-Planting Care: Keep your garden healthy by removing 

weeds as soon as they appear. Weeding is easier when 

garden soil is moistened before you weed. This makes the 

soil looser and more workable. Remove the weeds between 

the rows by scraping a flat-bladed hoe over the top few centimeters 

of soil. Pull weeds from within the rows out by hand. 

This reduces the chance of disturbing vegetable roots and 

prevents weeds from competing with them. 

Frost-free Days: Frost free days for a particular area are 

the average number of days in a growing season with the 

minimum temperature above 0 degrees Celsius. Freezing 

temperatures may not necessarily kill all of your plants. This 

means that the growing season may be longer than the number 

of frost free days. The length of a growing season may 

vary within relatively close proximities. For example, the heat 

island effect of cities such as Calgary and Edmonton extends 

their growing seasons. The average number of frost free days 

in Calgary is approximately 105, from May 24 to September 

5. Edmonton has a longer growing season because of their 

lower elevation and longer distance from the mountains. The 

average number of frost free days in Edmonton is approximately 

140, from May 7 to September 23. When you decide 

to plant and to harvest, take these factors into consideration: 

elevation and proximity to mountains, nearness to bodies of 

water, wind exposure, personal observation, and whether the 

garden is on a north or south slope of a valley. 

Vegetables and Vitamins: Vegetables are high in various 

vitamins. Vitamins are classified as being fat soluble or 

water soluble. Vitamins A, D, E and K are fat soluble, which 

means that they can be stored in the body's fat tissue. Vitamins 

B and C are water soluble, which means that they 

must be taken into the body on a daily basis. Vitamin A is 

known as retinal and is present in orange, yellow and green 

vegetables. It is especially high in cantaloupe, carrots, peppers 

and squash. Vitamin A deficiency is characterized by 

dry eyes and night blindness. Vitamin C is called ascorbic 

acid and is contained in cantaloupe, peppers, potatoes and 

tomatoes. Vitamin C deficiency is called scurvey. Vitamin E is 

known as tocopherol and is found in vegetable oils. Vitamin 

E deficiency allegedly causes sterility.

VeGetABLeS PotAtoeS, onionS & GArLiC 

Seed Potato Planting 

Tubers should never be exposed to hot sun or drying winds 

before planting keep them in a cool place. Large tubers may 

be cut into several pieces, as long as you are careful to leave 

two or three eyes in each piece. Let cut surfaces dry before 

planting. Soil should be loose and drain well. Dig as deeply 

as possible before planting. DO NOT add lime or manure 

– both encourage scab formation on potatoes. They are 

planted 4-6” deep, and 15-18” apart, which requires 3-4 lbs 

per 50-foot row. Fertilizer should not be high in nitrogen, as 

this promotes excess top growth. Most vegetable fertilizers 

would be appropriate. Consistent watering is essential as 

potatoes that become too dry before watering are prone 

to hollow heart and scab, and tubers will rot in very wet 

soil. Weeds between rows can be hoed – be careful not to 

damage roots of potatoes. After harvesting, store them in 

the dark about 8 degrees C, with good air circulation, and 

they will keep several months. 

Seed Potato Varieties 

Early 

Norland: Red potato, oblong with smooth skin and shallow 

eyes. Resistant to scab, a good eating potato. 

Warba: White potato, earliest cultivar available. Round, 

deep eyes, good yield, but susceptible to scab. 

Purple Potato: Early bluish-purple skin, white flesh, uniform 

shape; good yielder, hardy. 

Mid Season 

Kennebec: White potato, large with smooth skin. Stores 

well, good for boiling, baking and frying. 

Pontiac: Red potato, round heavy yield, drought resistant, 

excellent for boiling and mashing, bruises easily. 

Yukon Gold: Yellow potato, round, smooth skin, boils and 

bakes well, good flavor. 

Late Varieties 

Bintje: Yellow potato, one of the most popular in Europe. 

Good for good for boiling and baking, store well. 

Russet Burbank: White potato, large oblong with shallow 

eyes. Excellent for baking and frying; stores well. 

Garlic 

Is a member of the onion family but instead of producing 

one bulb, it produces a group of small bulbs called cloves. 

They are planted in early spring (or try fall planting, mulching 

over winter to protect bulbs). Break bulb apart and plant 

cloves separately in rich soil. Garlic needs ample water 

over the summer. Insects are not a problem with garlic it 

is a natural insect repellent. Harvest bulbs when tops die 

down, and hang to dry in bundles. 

Onions 

Can be planted from seed started early indoors, but planting 

“onion sets” (tiny onions from previous year, purchased 

in packages) outdoors when ground can be worked, is 

much simpler and more dependable. These are available 

for multipliers (also called shallots or scallions) bunching 

onions, cooking onions and spanish onions. 

Multipliers (or scallions) from clusters of bulblets in the 

ground. They are usually used as a green onion but can 

be allowed to mature, to a larger bulb. If they are going to 

be allowed to mature, thin out or space well. 

Shallots are larger then multipliers but similar in growth 

habit. 

Cooking onions produce a large, single bulb, and are 

available in yellow, white and red types. They keep well. 

Spanish onions are mild flavored, often eaten raw but poor 

keepers. They are available in yellow and white types. 

Silverskin or pickling onions are started from seed in 

March or early April. 

Growing Onions 

Onions need well-drained, cool soil. Onion sets are planted 

in early spring, about the first of May, transplanted (either 

purchased or your own grown from seed) are set out a little 

later. Use an onion maggot killer when planting to prevent 

damage from these pests. Do not plant too deep the bulb 

should ½ - 1” below the ground. They must never be allowed 

to dry out. Keep the soil evenly moist. A fertilizer 

lower in nitrogen (such as 3-11-0 or a bulb fertilizer) would 

be suitable. As the days lengthen and the temperature rises 

the tops stop growing and the bulb enlarges. Stop watering 

mid-August. The tops will wilt and fall over naturally, 

indicating it is time to harvest. Store clean, dry onions in 

a dry, cool place. 

Chives 

A hardy perennial that can be clipped continuously all 

summer to provide an onion like flavor to salads, dips, 

sauces, etc. Chives prefer rich, moist soil in full sun but 

will tolerate partial shade. They can be used fresh, frozen 

or dried. There are also “garlic chives” like regular chives 

but tall with a garlic flavor. If not clipped regularly, chives 

produce pom-poms of lavender flowers. 

Leeks 

Are a mild flavored member of the onion family. They do 

not form bulbs as onions do. To get long, white stems, 

plant in trenches 4-6 inches deep and hill up as the plant 

grows. They take 80-90 days to grow from transplants and 

140-150 days from seed, so seed must be started indoors 

by the end of March. 

VeGetABLeS 1

VeGetABLeS 

2 

VeGetABLeS 

Asparagus 

Asparagus is normally grown from roots or year-old crowns 

since growing from seed is unreliable and it takes three 

years until the plant is mature enough to harvest. Plant 

between May 10 and 30, 15” apart in a trench with the 

buds 6” below the ground level but with only a thin layer 

of earth covering them. Fill in this trench as the growing 

season progresses. Harvesting should begin in early to 

mid-spring depending on the season and should last only 

4 to 6 weeks. Harvest a very limited number of spears in 

the first year after planting. Always allow a few spears to 

develop into ferns. These ferns can be pruned occasionally 

to keep them at bay but they must remain to feed the 

root system throughout the summer; fertilize the plants 

occasionally and water as normal. 

Days to Harvest: 1 to 3 years 

Beans 

Plant beans in the spring after all danger of frost has 

passed, usually between May 20 and 30. For bush beans 

plant seeds about 1” deep and 2” apart in rows 2 to 3 feet 

apart; thin seedlings to 3-4” apart. Growing pole beans 

requires more space; rows should be 3 to 4 feet apart in 

hills 3 feet apart along each row. Use a pole or other form 

of support approximately 7 feet tall in the center of each 

hill. Plant 3-4 seeds around this pole. Do not let the soil 

dry out while the beans are blooming as this will cause the 

flowers to drop, reducing your yield. Harvest beans when 

they are around 5-6” long and the plant should continue 

to produce for several weeks. 

Days to Harvest: 48-70 depending on variety 

Beets 

Beets do best when planted in full sun and well-drained soil. 

Seed in mid-May (10-20) outdoors about ½” deep and 1” 

apart in rows. Thin as they grow to 3” apart. Take care to 

keep weeds down, especially among young seedlings as 

beets have difficulty competing at this stage. Harvest the 

beets whenever they appear large enough for use; roots 

any larger than 3” in diameter are usually too tough and 

fibrous. Leave an inch or so of the top attached to the root 

after harvest to prevent ‘bleeding’. 

Days to Harvest: 45-65 from seed depending on type 

Broccoli 

The best time to start this member of the cabbage family 

is indoors between March 15 and 30. Transplant to the 

garden when all danger of frost has passed. Do not allow 

plants to remain in potting trays for too long since they 

may not mature properly. Plant seedlings 15” apart in rows 

spaced up to three feet apart. It is important that broccoli 

gets sufficient water, especially as the heads begin to 

grow. To harvest cut off the central head along with 5-6” 

of stem when it is fully developed but before it begins to 

loosen or flower. Side shoots should grow after the central 

head is removed. 

Days to Harvest: 75 from transplant 

Brussels Sprouts 

This hardy, slow-growing, long-season vegetable is in the 

cabbage family. It requires a long growing season maturing 

in the cooler fall days. Seed indoors around March 15- 

30 and transplant outside after all danger of frost has 

passed. Transplant the seedlings when they reach 3” tall 

approximately one foot apart. During dry summer periods 

Broccoli Beets Beans 

Asparagus Brussels Sprouts

make sure you keep the plants watered and the area 

weed-free. Pick or cut sprouts from the stem when they 

are firm and around one inch in diameter. Lower sprouts 

are the first to mature. 

Days to Harvest: 90-100 from transplant depending on 

variety. 

Cabbage 

One of the most popular and healthy vegetables, cabbage 

comes in a variety of colors and types from green to 

purple and from wrinkled to smooth. Start indoors between 

March 20 and April 10 or plant seeds directly in the garden 

between May 15 and 30. Seedlings can be hardened off 

to allow for earlier planting. Transplants should be spaced 

one to two feet apart. Harvest cabbage any time after the 

heads form but before they split or become damaged. 

Always removed damaged cabbage heads and cut stems 

to reduce insect pests and diseases. 

Days to Harvest: 65-100 depending on variety. 

Carrot 

Carrots can be seeded outdoors quite early (May 1-10) 

because they can tolerate some frost. The soil should be 

worked to a depth of 9” to allow good root growth. Plant 

seeds ¼” to ½” deep in rows 1’ to 1½’ apart. Thin seedlings 

when they reach an inch in height to 3 per inch for finger 

carrots, one or two per inch for a young harvest, and one 

per 1-2 inches for large varieties. Keep weeds under 

control during the early stages. Harvest carrots when they 

reach ½” in diameter for young or finger varieties. Others 

should be allowed to grow ¾” in diameter. 

Days to Harvest: 50 to 80 depending on variety 

Cabbage 

Califlower 

VeGetABLeS 

Chard 

Essentially chard is a beet that has been bred for its leaves 

at the expense of root formation; there are red, white, or 

yellow-veined varieties. Seed outside from May 1 to May 

15, ½” to ¾” deep. Thin seeds as they grow to about 5” 

apart. Chard tolerates heat better than spinach but an 

adequate water supply is still important. To harvest cut 

the outer leaves 1 to 2 inches above the ground when 

they are around 8 to 12 inches in length. Take care not 

to damage the terminal growth bud at the bottom centre 

of the foliage. 

Days to Harvest: 50-65 from seed. 

Cauliflower 

Cauliflower is more difficult to grow than other members 

of the cabbage family and takes a bit of experience and 

a lot of patience. Start cauliflowers from seeds indoors 

between April 1 and April 20; move them outside after all 

danger of frost has passed since cauliflowers are more 

sensitive to the cold than other crucifers. Ensure that 

the plants are kept growing throughout the season. Any 

interruption from heat, cold, drought, etc. can result in 

no heads being formed. Because of this it is important to 

water consistently. To blanch (or whiten) the head tie the 

outer leaves over the centre of the plant. This prevents the 

head from turning green or developing incorrectly. When 

the head is mature (firm and white) it can be harvested by 

cutting the main stem. Do not allow the heads to become 

coarse in appearance as quality will be significantly 

reduced. 


VeGetABLeS 

Carrots

VeGetABLeS 

VeGetABLeS 

Corn 

Corn requires a lot of light and a long growing season. Sow 

seeds outdoors between May 15 and 30 about 1” deep 

and 9” to 12” apart. It is best to plant two or more rows of 

the same variety to ensure good pollination. Sweet corn 

should be protected from cross-pollination by starchy corn 

like field or popcorn; pollination by starchy corn will result 

in a loss of sweetness. Keep weeds down and ensure a 

good water supply while the tassels are emerging through 

to harvesting. Pick corn ears when they are full and plump, 

usually 20 days after the appearance of the first silk 

strands. Signs that the corn is ready to harvest include 

drying and browning of the silks, fullness of tip kernels, 

and firm-feeling ears. 

Days to Harvest: 65-80 days depending on variety 

Cucumbers 

Cucumbers, as well as other curcurbits such as squash, 

pumpkins, and melons, are large vines which grow best 

during warm nights and warm days. These plants require a 

lot of space in the garden but can be trained onto trellis in 

order to save room. Seeds require warm soil to germinate 

so it is best to start them indoors and transplant outside 

at the end of May/beginning of June. Plant in the late 

afternoon or early evening in hills up to 2 feet apart taking 

care not to disturb the roots. Water deeply to make sure 

the lower roots are wet. All curcurbits benefit from organic 

mulches applied in the summer like peat moss, compost, 

or herbicide-free lawn clippings to a depth of 3”. 


Eggplant 

This vegetable is cold-sensitive and requires a long warm 

season. Begin indoors between March 20 and 30 and 

transplant after the soil has warmed and the danger of 

frost has passed. Plants should be spaced one foot apart. 

When the fruits are 6” to 8” long and glossy they are ready 

to be harvested. Eggplants need full sun and a consistent 

watering regime. 


Kohlrabi 

Though it looks similar to a turnip, kohlrabi is actually a 

member of the cabbage family. Start the plants indoors 

in early April and transplant when the danger of frost has 

passed or sow seeds directly outdoors at the end of April. 

Plant seeds ¼” to ½” deep and thin to 6” apart. It is best to 

harvest kohlrabi when it is small (around 2” in diameter). 

Days to Harvest: 55-60 from seed or transplant date 

Lettuce 

Lettuce does best in cooler temperatures and should be 

planted in the early spring or late summer. Seed lettuce 

outdoors around the end of May ¼” to ½” deep in rows 12” 

to 18” apart. Thin to 4” apart for leaf lettuce or 8” to 10” for 

Romaine and other large lettuce types. Cultivate carefully 

to avoid disturbing shallow roots and water frequently yet 

lightly for good quality leaves. Cut leaf lettuce whenever it 

is large enough to be used. 


Corn Cucumber 

Eggplant 

Lettuce

Muskmelon (Cantaloupe) 

Refer to ‘Cucumbers’ for general growing instructions. 

Start indoors to allow the plant adequate time to grow in 

our short season. When the melons are ripe they should 

easily separate from the vine and take on a tan or yellow 

color. These plant require light, warmth, and shelter. 


Onions 

Plant onion bulbs in the spring as soon as the soil can be 

worked; early planting generally results in larger onions. 

Plant from sets to produce green onions or from bulbs for 

larger onions. For green onions plant sets 1” apart and 1½” 

deep. Dry onions should be planted 1” to 2” deep and 3” 

to 4” apart. Green onions can be harvested whenever 

they appear ready; if they are picked earlier the flavor is 

milder. Bulb onions are usually ready in late August or early 

September. When the tops are dry pull the onions and dry 

in a shaded area for 2 to 4 weeks. When the plants have 

dried cut off the tops an inch above the bulb and store 

in a container (mesh bag or slatted crate) in a dry, wellventilated 

area. It is important that the necks are completely 

dry to reduce the likelihood of disease or decay. 


Parsnip 

Grow this root vegetable in full sun in deeply turned soil. 

Seed between April 15 and 30, ½” deep in rows 18” to 24” 

apart. Thin seedlings until they are 6” apart. Since rapid 

growth is needed for good quality roots a fertilizer with high 

phosphorous is recommended. Parsnips can be harvested 

any time they reach a good size. If they are kept in cold 

storage for a short period parsnips tend to sweeten and 

Onion 

Peppers 

VeGetABLeS 

improve in flavor. 

Days to Harvest: 120 from seed. 

Peas 

Three types of this frost-hardy cool-season vegetable are 

grown in Calgary: garden or English peas, snap peas, 

and snow or sugar peas. Garden peas are grown for their 

seeds, while both snap and sugar peas are grown for 

their pods. Plant peas outdoors near the end of April 1 to 

1½” deep and 2” to 3” apart. Rows should be spaced 18” 

to 24” apart. Treat small seedlings with care since overfertilizing 

or improper cultivation can damage them. Dwarf 

and determinate peas are self-supporting. The taller, more 

productive pea vines (indeterminate varieties) require poles 

or stakes to climb. Harvest garden peas when the pods are 

swollen and round, snap peas before the seeds get very 

large, and snow peas when they are still flat.Pick snow 

peas often to ensure sweet, fibre-free pods. 

Days to Harvest: 55-70 from seed 

Peppers 

Peppers are a tender warm-season vegetable which 

require fairly high temperatures. It is best to start peppers 

indoors between March 15 and 30 and then transplant 

them into the garden when all danger of frost has passed 

and the soil and air are warm. Place transplants 18” apart. 

Ensure that the soil is well-drained and well-watered during 

dry periods. Pick the fruits at any time they appear to be 

ripe; green peppers are usually picked when they are 3” 

to 4” long or left to ripen as red or yellow peppers. Hot 

peppers can be picked at any stage. 

Days to Harvest: 60-90 from transplant depending on 

variety 

VeGetABLeS 

Peas

VeGetABLeS 

6 

VeGetABLeS 

Potato 

Potatoes are cool season vegetables that do best in 

cooler soils. Plant seed potatoes between May 15 and 30 

approximately 10” to 12” apart and cover to a depth of 1” 

to 3”. Rows should be spaced two feet apart to allow the 

foliage to shade the soil. After the plants have emerged 

a mulch can be applied to keep weeds down, conserve 

moisture, and cool the soil. After the potatoes break the 

surface, build up a ridge 

of loose soil around the 

plant. This will reduce the 

number of greened tubers. 

Dig potatoes when they 

are 1” to 2” in size for 

‘new’ potatoes or allow the 

tops to die down before 

harvesting. 

To avoid scab (rough, 

raised corky lesions on 

the potato surface) reduce 

the application of organic 

material; do not apply 

manure in the spring. 

Days to Harvest: varies depending on type (early, mid, 

late) 

Pumpkin 

Follow ‘cucumber’ instructions for general information. 

Start indoors between April 15 and 30 and plant outside 

when the soil is warm in an area which receives a lot of 

sun. Harvest when the rind is hard and of a deep, solid 

color. Pumpkins can be covered during a light frost but 

should be brought in if a heavy frost is expected to prevent 

such damage as softening. 

Days to Harvest: 110-120 from transplant 

Radish 

Radishes are among the 

easiest of vegetables 

to grow. Early varieties 

usually do best in the spring 

but some later-maturing 

varieties can be planted 

for summer harvest. Seed 

directly outdoors any time 

between May 1 and July 

15 ¼” to ½” deep. Thin the 

rows out, leaving ½” to 1” 

between plants for spring varieties and 2” to 4” for winter 

types like Daikon. Pull radishes when they are young 

(around 1” in diameter); leaving them in the ground any 

longer results in spongy, poor-tasting roots. Large winter 

varieties can be kept in the ground much longer. 

Days to Harvest: Spring: 20-30 from seed; Winter: 50 

Squash 

See ‘cucumber’ for general growing instructions. Many 

types of squash are available from zucchini to yellow 

crook-neck and other summer varieties to winter types 

such as acorn or spaghetti squash. Harvest zucchini when 

they are around 6” to 10” long and yellow crookneck at 4” 

to 7” in length. Winter squash should be picked when the 

stems are greyish and beginning to dry up. Cold weather 

will increase the sugar content. 

Days to Harvest: Summer: 50-60 depending on type 

Winter: 90-100 depending on variety. 

Tomato 

There are two main types of tomatoes: determinate and 

indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes eventually form a 

flower cluster at the terminal growing point causing the 

plant to stop growing in height. Indeterminate tomatoes 

have only lateral or side-branching flower clusters and 

grow indefinitely. Indeterminate varieties can be very 

late in maturing but are generally more flavorful then 

determinate types whose fruit is far quicker to mature 

and, in general, easier to control. Start seeds indoors 

early in mid to late-March and transplant outside when 

all danger of frost has passed (usually the first weekend 

in June). Spacing depends on the type of plant - dwarf 

plants only need 12”, staked plants 15” to 24”, and some 

indeterminates require up to 8 feet between plants. Apply 

a mulch after the soil has warmed and ensure consistent 

watering throughout the growing season. Pick tomatoes 

when they are firm and well-colored. If a heavy frost 

is expected harvest all the green fruit and allow them to 

continue ripening indoors in a cool, light area. 

Days to Harvest: 45-80 depending on variety. 

Turnips 

These members of the cabbage family require the cool 

temperatures of spring and fall as well as full sun for best 

results. The leaves can be used for greens and the root 

can be cooked like beets. Plant seeds outdoors between 

May 1 and 15 and thin to 3” to 4” apart. The soil should 

be loosened to 10” to 12” deep for adequate root growth 

before the seeds are planted. 

Days to Harvest: 55-60 depending on type 

Watermelon 

For basics regarding watermelons refer to ‘Cucumbers’. 

When growing seedless varieties it is important that a few 

normal seed types be planted to allow pollination. Start 

seeds indoors at the beginning of April or outside at the 

end of May at a depth of one inch. Transplant seedlings 

when the soil is warm and allow considerable space (plants 

should be 3 to 5 feet apart). Watermelons are ready for 

harvest when the skin is rough and dull and when the 

bottom of the melon turns from light green to yellow.

Allium (Allium species) 

These bulbs belong to the large onion family. They produce 

6 in. - 5 ft. (15 cm - 1.5 m) tall plants, depending 

on the variety, with typical hollow flat basal leaves. They 

also produce few or many white, yellow or pink to purple 

ball-shaped flower clusters on tall hollow stems. These 

bulbs prefer sunny locations. Plant allium bulbs 4-6 in. 

(10-15 cm) deep and 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) apart. 

Crocus (Crocus species) 

These corms produce dwarf 3-4 in. (7.5-10 cm) plants 

with narrow grass-like leaves. They also produce attractive 

short-stemmed purple, yellow, white, or striped 

cupped flowers during the early spring. There are a few 

varieties that flower in fall. These corms can be naturalized 

in your lawn or planted under trees or shrubs. Plant 

crocus corms in early Sept., 4-6 in.(10-15 cm ) deep and 

2-6 in. (5-15 cm) apart. 

Daffodil (Narcissus pseudonarcissus) 

These bulbs produce 6-18 in. (15-45 cm) plants, depending 

on the variety, with flat rush-like basal leaves. 

They also produce, in the very early spring, attractive 

white, yellow, orange, or bicolored, nodding bell-shaped 

single or double flowers.The Narcissus family contains 

many types of daffodils, the most common being King 

Alfred, a large bright yellow trumpet-like daffodil. However, 

there are several other varieties that grow well 

here. Most varieties are suitable for forcing indoors. 

Plant daffodils bulbs 8 in. (20 cm) deep and 6-8 in. 

(15-20 cm) apart. 

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis) 

These bulbs produce 18 in. (45 cm) tall plants with narrow 

grass-like basal leaves. They also produce fragrant 

showy columnar clusters of yellow, white, pink, or bluepurple 

flowers. Plant 6 in. (15 cm) deep and 

6 in. (15 cm) apart. 

BULB 

fAVoriteS 

Grape Hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum) 

These bulbs produce 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) tall plants with 

long narrow leaves. They also produce clusters of blue, 

white or mauve urn shaped and drooping flowers. These 

bulbs are great for naturalizing, for rock gardens, or for 

forcing indoors. Plant muscari bulbs 2 in. (5 cm) deep 

and 4 in.(10 cm) apart. 

Lily (Lilium species) 

Garden lilies are one of the most under used bulbs. A 

wide range of colors are now available, from the typical 

‘Tiger’ orange to red, yellow, peach, rose, pink, purple, 

maroon, cream, and white. Many varieties are attractively 

spotted. Lilies may planted in the spring or the 

fall. Lilies bloom in the mid-summer rather than early 

in spring. Plant lily bulbs 6-8 in. (15-20 cm) deep and 

12 in. (30 cm) apart. 

Striped Squill (Puschkinia scilloides) 

These bulbs produce 6 in.(15 cm) tall plants with straplike 

leaves. They have pale blue, blue-green striped, 

bell-shaped dense flower spikes. These hardy and longlived 

bulbs multiply each year. Plant puschkinia bulbs 

4 in. (10 cm) deep and 2-4 in. (5-10 cm) apart. 

Tulip (Tulipa species) 

These bulbs produce 4-30 in. (10-75 cm) tall plants, 

depending on the variety, with wide bluish-green basal 

leaves. They have solitary flowers on thick upright stems 

that arise from the basal leaves. The flower shape can 

vary tremendously from slender and pointed to round 

and open-faced. Their flowering time can vary from early 

April to late May. The flowers are available in almost 

every imaginable color including striped, mottled, and 

different colored edges. No other spring bulb offers such 

diversity as the tulip. Tulips are great for indoor forcing. 

Plant tulips bulbs 8 in..(20 cm) deep and 

6-8 in. (15-20 cm) apart. 

BULBS

BULBS 

BULBS yoUr qUeStionS 

Q: Can gladioli be started indoors to encourage 

earlier flowering? 

A: Gladioli can be given a head start by planting them 

in April in pots. It is a good idea to dust bulbs with insecticide/fungicide 

dust before planting. 

Q: What causes white streaks and distorted blossoms 

on gladioli? 

A: A small insect called thrips can cause damage to both 

the corm and the plant. Dust corms prior to storing and 

planting and spray for exposed thrips on the plant itself 

as soon as insects or damage appear. 

Q: How can one prevent squirrels from digging up 

bulbs? 

A: There are no absolute remedies to this problem but 

by planting bulbs at their maximum depths or sprinkling 

blood meal onto the soil surface damage may be reduced. 

Squirrels do not eat daffodils so planting some 

with other bulbs may also help. Some have had success 

with putting out a feeder for the squirrels. The animals 

feed on sunflower seeds and do not bother to look for 

the harder to find bulbs. 

Q: Can tulips and other spring flowering bulbs be 

planted in outdoor pots in the fall for bloom the 

next year? 

A: Our climate is very harsh, with extremely cold temperatures 

and large fluctuations when our chinooks come 

and go. Generally speaking, bulbs in pots tend to either 

freeze or rot as a result of these conditions and do not 

survive the winter. Container gardening with tulips can 

be attempted if you protect the bulbs from the weather. 

Containers should be a minimum 14 inches across. If 

possible store in a garage or other unheated protected 

area. If containers are too heavy to move wrap them 

with burlap and cover with snow in the winter. 

Q: When should I start my begonias? 

A: Ideally, begonia tubers should be started indoors in 

March 6-8 weeks before you plan on setting them out. 

Plant tuber concave side up just below the surface of 

the soil (ideally sterile mix). Place in a well-lit spot that 

cools overnight to about 15 degrees C. 

Q: When should the flower stem and leaves be cut 

down after a bulb has flowered? 

A: The flower stem can be cut as soon the flowers are 

finished. The leaves should be allowed to die back 

before being cut. By planting bulbs around perennials 

the yellowing bulb foliage will be hidden. 

Q: Which are the hardiest lilies for our area? 

A: Tiger and Asiatic lilies are the hardiest. Trumpet and 

Oriental can do well here with a good layer of mulch 

applied after the ground has frozen. 

Q: Which bulbs produce fragrant flowers? 

A: Oriental and Trumpet lilies are very fragrant. Tuberose, 

acidanthera, hyacinth, some narcissus, tulips 

and iris are also fragrant. 

Q: Are tulips perennial? 

A: Species tulip are quite good at coming back year after 

year. Other tulips often act as short lived perennials and 

do best when planted 6 to 8 inches deep in rich, well 

drained soil, and fed in the spring and fall. Allow the 

leaves to die back completely before removing them 

since they feed the bulb. 

Q: Can bulbs which have been forced be saved and 

forced again? 

A: Amaryllis can be kept to replant for next year. Hyacinth, 

tulip, daffodil, crocus, and paper whites should be 

discarded after flowering. In some cases hyacinths can 

be planted in the garden in the spring, however, it will 

take at least two years for them to reflower. 

Q. Why can’t I plant tulips in the Spring? 

A. Spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips and daffodils 

must be planted in the fall or early winter to bloom in 

spring because they require a long period of cool temperatures. 

The exposure to low temperatures allows 

the bulb to flower. Not only do they need to be planted 

in fall but they need to be planted before the ground 

freezes to develop roots.

Q. I forgot to plant my spring-flowering bulbs last 

fall and I just found them in the garage. Should I wait 

until next fall to plant? 

A. No. If the bulbs are still firm plant them as soon as 

you are able to in the spring. If you leave them too long 

they will dry out. These bulbs still may survive and could 

even flower this season if you are lucky. However, if you 

leave them in the bag you may as well just throw them 

out. 

Q. Help! It’s the middle of March and my crocuses 

have started to sprout but cold weather is forecast 

for next week. Will this kill my bulbs? 

A. Not usually. Spring-flowering bulbs are very tough. A 

short spell of freezing weather will do little if any damage 

to the leaves though it may burn the flowers. Warm snaps 

during Chinooks can encourage growth but this should 

not damage your bulbs either. 

Q. What are species tulips? 

A. These are varieties that have not been hybridized or 

bred. They are basically as they can be found in nature. 

As a result species tulips naturalize much more readily 

than heavily hybridized bulbs. Though they are usually 

smaller they are colorful and unique. Examples of species 

tulips are Tarda, Kaufmaniana, and Saxatilis 

Q. Which fertilizer is best for my bulbs? 

A. When planting spring-flowering bulbs you can use 

either a sprinkle of bone meal or commercial fertilizer in 

the bottom of the hole to get the roots started. After this, 

fertilize with bulb fertilizer in the fall and once again when 

the shoots appear in the spring. 

BULBS yoUr qUeStionS 

Q. Do tulips prefer a sunny or a shady spot in the 

yard? 

A. Tulips prefer sun but can do alright in the shade. When 

planning your garden late in the season remember that 

early spring gardens are much brighter as the leaves 

have yet to come in on the trees. 

Q. My tulip has finished blooming and the leaves 

make my garden look ugly. Can I cut them down? 

A. No. The leaves are vital in supplying the bulb with nutrients 

and energy through photosynthesis. If you remove 

the leaves you will quickly exhaust the bulb. Letting the 

leaves remain will increase your chances of having the 

bulbs naturalize. Plan to plant perennials or annuals in 

the area to disguise the fading leaves. 

Q. What is a good bulb for shady areas? 

A. Most bulbs like a decent amount of sunlight but there 

are a few that can adapt to partial shade. 

These are glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa), 

Siberian squill (Puschkina), checkered lily 

(Fritillaria melagris), and some hyacinth. 

Planting bulbs in shady areas greatly reduces 

the chances of naturalizing and the 

amount of blooms. 

Q. Will my daffodils multiply like my 

tulips? 

A. In optimum conditions daffodils will 

naturalize. They will split and form new 

bulbs and thus new flowers. In less-than 

top conditions (ie. Calgary) the bulbs will 

split into smaller bulbs and thus smaller 

flowers and in poor conditions only the 

original bulb will continue to flower. 

Q. Why is it recommended to plant 

bulbs in clusters? 

A. Bulbs planted in groups of odd numbers 

tend to look more natural than those planted in rows. 

They will complement each other and appear to be more 

or at least have a greater impact than a single bulb. Large 

bulbs should be planted 3-6 inches apart and smaller 

bulbs should be planted 1-2 inches apart to allow for bulb 

growth. 

BULBS

BULBS 

0 

BULBSSPrinG fLoWerinG informAtion 

Spring-flowering bulbs bloom in March, April, May 

& June and must be planted in the fall. They are 

popular because they are the first harbingers of spring 

time, and provide the spring garden with color and 

variety. There are so many different bulbs with as many 

colors and heights that combinations are endless. Due 

to the large variation in blossoming periods, one can 

enjoy flowering bulbs for many months. 

Soil Requirements 

All soil types are suitable for planting flower bulbs. 

Only very wet soil presents problems. Before planting 

loosen the soil thoroughly. Heavy clay soil is improved 

by mixing gypsum, peat, or compost into topsoil. 

Fertilizing 

Flower bulbs don’t require extra fertilizer since bulbous 

plants have storage food of their own. If the flower bulbs 

are to remain in the soil for many years, application 

of a slow release fertilizer in fall is recommended. A 

balanced complete fertilizer (such as bone meal) is 

suitable for bulbs. Additional nourishment provides 

sufficient strength for flowering the following spring. 

Fertilizing must be repeated every year. 

When to Plant 

Spring flowering bulbs are planted from September 

till November, provided the soil is not frozen and can 

be worked easily. Planting before it becomes too cold 

provides more time for root growth. 

Where to Plant 

Spring flowering bulbs can be planted everywhere in 

the garden depending on their light requirement: in 

sunlight, shade or part-shade; in borders, around a 

fence or tree. Low-growing flower bulbs look their best 

in an area where they are clearly visible. Tall varieties 

are best planted in the back of borders. 

How Deep to Plant 

The general rule of thumb for spring bulbs is that they 

should be planted three times as deep as they are 

high. More specifically, the underside of the bulb (the 

flat side), should be 8 inches deep for large bulbs such 

as the tulip, hyacinth and daffodil; and 4 inches deep 

for smaller bulbs such as the anemone, scilla, and 

muscari. 

Watering After Planting 

If nature itself does not provide sufficient water after 

planting, the plants should be watered by hand. The 

plants form roots quicker in moist soil, and this is 

important for their further development. 

Covering Layer 

Flower bulbs benefit from a mulch of leaves or straw. If 

the winters are extremely severe and particularly if we 

do not have adequate snow cover, a protective mulch 

of about 4 inches will prevent alternate freezing and 

thawing which can prevent flowering. 

Good Combinations 

Best results are obtained by taking into consideration 

heights, color combinations and flowering periods. It 

is preferable to plant the bulbs in small groups, but to 

avoid circles or squares, in order to obtain as natural 

an effect as possible. Gardens may be provided with 

long periods of color by planting different bulbs together 

which have varying flowering times. Examples to try 

are combinations of low-growing crocuses with late 

flowering tulips, scilla with early flowering tulips, or 

saffodils with Darwin tulips. 

Naturalizing 

Many spring bulbs are ideally suited for naturalizing, 

and they provide the garden with a "natural" look when

planted in the grass, around trees or under shrubs. 

Species tulips, low-growing daffodils, crocuses, snowdrops, 

and scillas are very suitable for naturalizing. 

Taller-growing bulbous plants (ie. Trumpet daffodils) 

can best be combined with others. When planting near 

trees or among rocks, always use at least six bulbs. If 

planting bulbs in grass consideration should be given 

to the fact that mowing should not be done until the 

flowers and leaves have withered. 

Among Ground Covers 

Flower bulbs are well suited for planting among ground 

covers. The roots of flower bulbs sit deeper and therefore 

don't rob the ground cover of food. Moreover, once 

the flowers have finished blooming, the ground cover 

ensures an attractive garden. 

Indoors 

Many kinds of spring bulbs are suitable for indoor forcing, 

enabling them to blossom in the winter. There are 

special bulbs such as the amaryllis and the paperwhite 

(Narcissus spp.) perfect for providing fragrance and 

color during the long winter days. Species such as 

hyacinth, tulip, daffodil and crocus will require a cold 

period to bloom. Please refer to our Indoor Forcing of 

Flower Bulbs section. 

Perennial Flowering 

By leaving the flower bulbs in the ground after they 

blossom, most spring bulbs will bloom again the following 

year. It is important to cut the flowers off after they 

have finished blooming, but leave as many leaves as 

possible on the stem. The plant will receive sufficient 

frAGrAnt tULiPS 

If you plan on cutting tulips for indoor flower 

arrangments, or want to add more fragrance 

to your spring garden, here is a list of some of 

the more fragrant varieties of tulips. 

Angelique (Double Late) 

Apricot Parrot (Parrot) 

Apricot Beauty (Single Early) 

Ballerina (Lily-flowered) 

Christmas Marvel (Single Early) 

Dillenburg (Single Late) 

Keizerskroon (Single Early) 

Princess Irene (Triumph) 

T. tarda (Species) 

storage food to recharge the bulb underground. It will 

then bloom again the following spring. 

After the Flowering Period 

After the flowering period, the choice is leaving the 

bulbs in the ground or digging them up. By leaving 

them in the ground a sort of naturalizing takes place. 

Planting some additional bulbs in the area will create 

a splendid effect. You can also dig up the flower bulbs 

and plant something different the following season. To 

be able to use these bulbs another time, they should 

be dug up only when the leaves have completely died. 

Remove the soil from the bulbs and save them until fall 

in a dry, well ventilated place. 

Cold Climate 

In a very cold climate, sprouting bulbs can be damaged 

by extreme weather and by sudden Chinooks. If 

the bulbs are starting to sprout in December or January, 

it's wise to cover them with a layer of soil, peat 

or leaves. Mulching bulbs in the fall with straw or dry 

leaves helps prevent them from sprouting too early. If 

it starts to get warmer more quickly than normal, the 

bulbs' flowering time may also begin earlier; so you 

should be prepared to cover them with sheets or burlap 

if a frost is forecast. 

Problems 

Bulb Dust is helpful in preventing either soil insects 

or disease from damaging bulbs. Gopher or squirrel 

problems ( they use garden bulbs as a food source) 

can be deterred by sprinkling blood meal on top of the 

soil where bulbs are planted. 

Grape Hyacinth 

BULBS 1

BULBS 

2 

BULBS SPrinG fLoWerinG 

Crocus 

all bulbs listed subject to seasonal 


Planting Bloom 

Variety Color Height Depth/ 

Spacing 

Time Features 

DUTCH HYBRID: very large, showy flowers 

Flower Record strong purple 4”-6” 3” deep/ 

2”-6” apart 

early spring large, showy flowers 

Golden Yellow rich, buttercup 4”-6” 3” deep/ early spring Heirloom since 1600; fragrant 

yellow 2”-6” apart 

Jeanne d’Arc pure white 4”-6” 3” deep/ 


early spring Heirloom: 1925 

Pickwick greyish white 4”-6” 3” deep/ early spring Heirloom: 1940 

with lilac stripes 2”-6” apart 

SPECIES: hardiest crocus; produce small flowers very early in the spring 

Advance soft yellow inside, 4” 3” deep/ early spring Orange stamens 

violet outside 2”-6” apart 

Ruby Giant reddish 4” 3” deep/ early spring Somewhat squirrel resistant 

purple 2”-6” apart 

Tricolor orange, white, 4” 3” deep/ early spring Bronze/burgundy stamens 

lilac 

Daffodils 


Variety Colour Height Depth/ Time Features 

Spacing 

ROCK GARDEN 

Canaliculatus white & yellow 4” 6” deep/ late spring A true miniature 


Jenny ivory matures 12” 6” deep/ early spring Reflexed petals 

to white 3”-6” apart 

Peeping Tom pure yellow 12” 6” deep/ early spring Long trumpet with back 

3”-6” apart curving petals 

Tete-a-tete yellow with 8” 6” deep/ early spring Long lasting; good for 

golden cup 3”-6” apart forcing 

Thalia white 12” 6” deep/ mid spring Three blossoms per stem 


LARGE CUPPED 

Accent white petals with 16” 6”-8” deep/ early spring Unusual color! 

salmon cup 4”-6” apart 

Carlton all yellow 18” 6”-8” deep/ early spring Vanilla scent 


Kissproof creamy yellow with 20” 6”-8” deep/ early spring Unusual color! 

large, flat brick red cup 4”-6” apart 

TRUMPET 

King Alfred bright yellow 18” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring Excellent in cooler climates 


Mount Hood creamy white 15” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring Local favorite 


PLANTING DEPTH 

Bulbs are usually planted either too deep or too shallow. 

For best results, bulbs should be planted THREE times as deep as their diameter.


Daffodils 




Variety 

BUNCH-FLOWERING 

Color Height Depth/ 

Spacing 

Time Features 

Geranium white & orange 15”-17” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring 3-5 flowers per stem; 

4”-6” apart heirloom 1930 

Yellow Cheerfulness 

DOUBLE-FLOWERING 

yellow 16” 6”-8” deep/ 


late spring Double flowers 

Flower Drift white with 16” 6”-8” deep/ early spring Beautiful, large daffodil 

yellow-orange cup 4”-6” apart 

Ice King white 16” 6”-8” deep/ 


early spring Very vigorous 

Rosy Cloud white petals with 18” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring Cup is double 

SMALL CUPPED 

pink cup 4”-6” apart 

Actea pure white; 18” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring Heirloom 1927 

small yellow cup 

has red band 


Barret Browning white with 16” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring One pretty and small 

orange-red cup 4”-6” apart flower on a tall stem. 

Pickwick Crocus 

Golden Yellow Crocus 

Flower Drift Daffodil 

Jeanne d’Arc Crocus 

Carlton Daffodil 

BULBS 

Daffodil

BULBS 


Tulips 

Planting 



Bloom 

Variety 

BOUQUET 


Spacing 

Time Features 

Gypsy Love Raspberry violet 18-20” 6” deep/ 


late spring Great cut flower 

Toronto salmon rose 14” 6” deep/ 


mid spring Multi-flowering. 

DARWIN HYBRIDS: excellent perennializing tulip; one of the best in Calgary. Many more varieties available! 

American Dream yellow with 24” 6” deep/ mid spring Very showy! 

red edging 4”-6” apart 

Daydream apricot orange 22” 6” deep/ 


mid spring Unusual color. 

Golden Oxford golden yellow 22” 6” deep/ mid spring Sometimes will have a red 

with yellow center 4”-6” apart edge or blush. 

Pink Impression deep pink with 24” 6” deep/ mid spring Favorite pink. 

black center 4”-6” apart 

Parade bright red with yellow base 22” 6” deep/ mid spring Biggest red tulip. 

& yellow edged black center 4”-6” apart 

Silver Stream creamy yellow; 20” 6” deep/ mid spring Leaves edged with pink and 

DOUBLE EARLY 

streaked red & pink 4”-6” apart yellow. 

Abba deep red 10”-16” 6” deep/ early spring Red is a very popular tulip 

4”-6” apart color. 

Monte Beau lemon yellow with a 10”-12” 6” deep/ early spring New Variety 

broad white edging 4”-6” apart 

Peach Blossom 

DOUBLE LATE 

deep rose 10”-16” 6” deep/ 


early spring Heirloom 1890. 

Angelique soft shades of pink 14”-16” 6” deep/ 


late spring Fragrant. 

Blue Spectacle reddish purple 14”-16” 6” deep/ 


late spring Interesting variety 

Lilac Perfection lilac purple 16”-18” 6” deep/ 


late spring A favorite! 

Uncle Tom dark mahogany 18” 6” deep/ late spring Beautiful, deep color. 

red 4”-6” apart 

Golden Oxford Tulip American Dream Tulip 

Silver Stream Tulip 

Angelique Tulip 

Monte Beau Tulip 

Blue Spectacle Tulip 

Parade Tulip


Tulips 

Planting 



Bloom 

Variety 

FOSTERIANNA/EMPEROR 


Spacing 

Time Features 

Easter Parade rose/yellow 16” 6” deep/ 


early spring Just in time for Easter 

Flaming Purissima pastel white with 18” 6” deep/ mid spring Streaked blooms. 

rose feathering 4”-6” apart 

Red Emperor lipstick red with 14” 6” deep/ early spring Other ‘Emperor” colors are 

black center 4”-6” apart yellow, orange, and white. 

FRINGED lavender, wine, 20”-26” 6” deep/ mid to late spring Feathery, fringed petal edges 

red, yellow 4”-6” apart 

GREIGHII red, pink, 8”-12” 6” deep/ early spring Very reliable; interesting 

red with white stripe 4”-6” apart mottled leaves. 

KAUFMANNIANA red, lemon, salmon 6”-8” 6” deep/ early spring Striped, mottled leaves. 

pink, salmon variegated 4”-6” apart 

LILY-FLOWERING: more available! 

Mariette deep rose 22” 6” deep/ 


late spring Great in south facing gardens! 

Marilyn peppermint 24” 6” deep/ 


late spring Try with blue tulips for impact 

West Point golden yellow 20” 6” deep/ late spring Named after West Point 

4”-6” apart Academy 

White Triumphator opens ivory yellow 24” 6” deep/ late spring Lovely pure white 

PARROT 

and turns white 4”-6” apart 

Blue Parrot lavender blue with 22” 6” deep/ mid spring Sport of ‘Blue Amiable’. 

violet hints 4”-6” apart 

Estella Rynveldt deep red with 20” 6” deep/ mid spring Very good cut flower. 

ivory flames 4”-6” apart 

Fantasy bright pink with green 22” 6” deep/ mid spring Very strong fringed edges. 

SINGLE EARLY 

streaks and white flames 4”-6” apart 

Apricot Beauty shades of apricot 18” 6” deep/ early spring Strong stems, fragrant. 

tinged pink 4”-6” apart 

Christmas Dream fushia pink with 14” 6” deep/ early spring Good for forcing. 

large white base 4”-6” apart 

Christmas Marvel cherry pink 14” 6” deep/ 


early spring Good for forcing. 

Fringed Tulip 

Apricot Beauty Tulip 

Marilyn Tulip Flaming Purissima Tulip 

Christmas Dream Tulip 

Blue Parrot Tulip 

Mariette Tulip 

BULBS

BULBS 

6 


Tulips 

Planting 



Bloom 

Variety 

SPECIES 


Spacing 

Time Features 

T. clusiana red & white 12” 4” deep/ mid spring Multiply and naturalize well. 

peppermint 4” apart 

T. saxatilis lavender pink with 10” 4” deep/ mid spring Small, delicate center. 

yellow center 4” apart 

T. tarda yellow edged in 6” 4” deep/ mid spring Star-shaped flowers! 

TRIUMPH 

white 4” apart 

Attila reddish violet 20” 6” deep/ 


late spring Great with pansies. 

Blueberry Ripple white with purple 18” 6” deep/ early spring Exclusive to independent 

flames 4”-6” apart garden centers. 

Calgary snow white 8”-10” 6” deep/ 


early spring White as spring snow. 

Francoise creamy white with 24” 6” deep/ mid spring Large, long-lasting blossoms. 

ivory yellow flames 4”-6” apart 

Negrita reddish purple 18” 6” deep/ 


mid spring One of the deepest tones. 

Princess Irene orange with pale 14” 6” deep/ mid spring Fragrant. 

purple flames 4”-6” apart 

Rosalie two-toned 20”-22” 6” deep/ mid spring Dark purple stems. 

lavender pink 4”-6” apart 

Sweet Love soft pink petals with 20”-22” 6” deep/ mid spring New variety. 

VIRIDIFLORA 

deep rose flames & pale 

pink edges 


Deidre true green petals and 18”-20” 6” deep/ early spring New variety. 

greenish white edge 4”-6” apart 

Greenland soft to rich pink brushed 18”-20” 6” deep/ early spring New variety. Good cut flower. 

with yellow and green 4”-6” apart 

Nightrider blue-purple blooms with 18”-20” 6” deep/ early spring New variety. Good cut flower. 

grass green flames 4”-6” apart 

Attila Tulip Blueberry Ripple Tulip 

Francoise Tulip 

Princess Irene Tulip 

Nightrider Tulip 

Rosalie Tulip 

Queen of the Night Tulip





Variety Color Height Depth/ Time Features 

Spacing 

ALLIUM 

A.christophii lavender 14” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Prefers sunny location. 

6” apart Globes of star-shaped flowers 

A. giganteum purple-blue 48” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Large globes. 

6” apart 

A. ‘Globemaster’ purple 36” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Ten inch flower heads. 

6” apart 

A. moly yellow 11” 3” deep/ early summer Multiplies quickly. 

3” apart 

A. ‘Mount Everest’ white 48” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Broad leaves; fluffy white 

6” apart heads 

A. ‘Purple Sensation’ purple 36” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Very reliable perennial. 

6” apart 

A. sphaerocephalon purple-red 25” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Available in single & double 

6” apart forms. 

FRITILLARIA 

Fritillaria meleagris cream, purple and 8” 4” deep/ mid spring Delicate bell-shaped 

‘Checkered Lily’ brown 4” apart checkered flowers. 

Fritilaria Imperialis red or yellow 36” 6”-8” deep/ late spring Bulb gives off skunk-like 

8” apart fragrance which may repel 

squirrels. 

GLORY OF THE SNOW 

Chinodoxa blue or pink with 5”-8” 3”-4” deep/ early spring Tall plants with narrow grass 

white centers 2”-4” apart like leaves and nodding 

flowers. 

GRAPE HYACINTH 

Muscari white, blue, violet 4”-6” 2”-3” deep/ mid spring Double and single varieties 

4” apart available. Naturalize well. 

HYACINTH 

Hyacinthus orientalis white, pink, purple, 8”-12” 6” deep/ mid spring Suitable for forcing; many 

blue, yellow, apricot 6” apart varieties of pre-cooled 

bulbs available. 

IRIS - DWARF 

Iris spp. yellow, light blue, blue 6” 2”-3” deep/ early spring Flowers appear before 

4” apart leaves in spring. Good for 

forcing or rock garden. 

BULBS 

Fritillaria meleagris Hyancinth 

Allium giganteum 

Dwarf Iris 

Allium moly

BULBS 

BULBSSPrinG fLoWerinG 




Variety 

SNOWDROPS 


Spacing 

Time Features 

Galanthus spp. white 4” 3” deep/ early spring Available in single & double 

SIBERIAN SQUILL 

2”-3” apart forms. Solitary, nodding 

dainty white blooms. 

Scilla siberica 

STRIPED SQUILL 

deep blue 5” 4” deep/ 

3” apart 

early spring Multiplies readily. 

Puschkina libanotica blue with dark 5” 4” deep/ early spring Hardy, long-lived bulb. 

STAR OF BETHLEHEM 

blue stripe 3” apart Good companion for tulips. 

Ornithogallum spp. white 7” 4” deep/ late spring Large clusters of star-shaped 

6” apart blooms. Plant under trees or 

shrubs. 

WINTER ACONITE yellow 3” 4” deep/ early spring Tuberous plants with rounded 

Eranthis hyemalis 6” apart/ leaves. Solitary, bright yellow 

flowers.

BULBS SUmmer fLoWerinG informAtion 

Bulbs that bloom in summer, rather than spring, are usually 

not as winter hardy as spring-flowering bulbs and cannot survive 

the winter outdoors on the Prairies. This group includes 

dahlias, gladioli, begonias, some lilies, and numerous small 

bulbs. They are often started in pots indoors, in March or April, 

and planted outdoors after the last spring frost. In fall they are 

dug up, cleaned, allowed to dry, 

dusted with Bulb Dust, and stored 

in a cardboard box or paper bag 

(not plastic) containing vermiculite, 

sawdust, or peatmoss in a 

cold but frost-free place until next 

spring. The inexpensive smaller 

bulbs can be treated the same 

way but are usually replaced 

every year as their size makes 

them hard to find once planted 

and the cost is minimal. 

Gladiolus 

For top quality blooms, select 

high crowned corms at least 1 

½” in diameter. They will produce 

a single sturdy stalk with 

large flowers. Wide, flat corms 

with hollow centres are older, 

and not as vigorous. In Calgary, 

corms started in the house about 

the end of April will have an earlier 

flowering season then those 

planted directly outside. They 

can be planted several to a large 

shallow pot (ice cream pails with 

holes punched in the bottom, or 

large bulb pans work well) in a 

mixture of 2/3 potting mix and 1/3 

sand, just burying the corm. Keep 

slightly moist, and in a bright light 

once growth begins. Placing outdoors 

when weather permits can 

harden them off. Bringing in or protecting if there is danger of 

frost, and planted outdoors about the beginning of June. They 

should be planted slightly deeper outdoors than they were in 

pots. If preferred, corms can be planted directly into outdoor 

beds about the end of May. 

Gladiolus like a sunny spot, sheltered from wind. They are 

planted about six inches apart. Fertilize with an all purpose 

fertilizer (15-30-15) monthly. They will bloom in late July and 

August, in a wide array of colors. 

In fall, after a frost, dig up corms, and cut tops several inches 

above the top of the corm. Keep in a warm, dry area for about 

two weeks, until the tops are dry. Pull off the old corms, tops 

and roots, dust with bulb dust (to prevent any problems with 

insects or disease) and store in a frost-free cold, dry place in 

vermiculite or peat moss in a cardboard or paper container. 

The little “cormels” on the corms can be stored separately and 

planted next year – they take about three years to bloom. 

Thrips are a problem with gladiolas. They are tiny insects, 

which leave long white streaks on leaves and distort blooms. 

Dusting with bulb dust before storage and again before planting 

is essential. Planting in a different area the next season 

is helpful if practical. 

Tuberous Begonias 

Start tubers indoors at the end of March. Plant the bulbs in a 

shallow tray or pot in any well-drained planting medium, i.e. 

Golden Acres Professional Mix. Set the tubers in this mix, with 

the depression upward about an inch apart, do not cover tuber 

with soil. Set the tray in an area where it will have at least 60 

F temperature to break dormancy. 

Keep rooting medium slightly damp. 

Bright light is necessary, but keep 

out of full sun and keep water out of 

tuber’s depression (the hole in the 

centre of the tuber). 

As soon as the tubers are well rooted 

and shoots are ½” or more long, 

transplant into individual 6” pots. Use 

the same planting medium as stated 

above. Fill pots without disturbing 

roots. Do not cover the tuber with 

planting medium. 

Keep the planted tubers in a warm 

area in bright light but shaded from 

the hot sun. Too much heat will produce 

long, weak growth. Feed weekly 

with a flowering fertilizer diluted at 

half strength, such as Plant-Prod 15- 

30-15 or Plant-Prod 20-20-20. They 

are both excellent fertilizers. Plant 

the tubers outside after the threat 

of frost has passed, where they will 

be sheltered from wind and hot sun. 

Tubers can be removed from pots and 

placed in open soil, about 12” apart. 

You can leave them in their pots and 

plunge them into the flowerbed. This 

is sometimes preferable in case of 

early frost – it is easier to take them 

indoors. 

TIP: Stake tall plants or those heavy 

with blooms. 

In the fall, after a light frost, reduce 

watering until the leaves die. Dig up, break stem close to tuber 

and allow them to dry in an airy location. Dust tubers with bulb 

dust to prevent insect and disease damage and store in dry 

peat, perlite or vermiculite. Store in a cold frost-free room. 

Dahlias 

Similar care to a begonia. Mature plants can range from a 

few inches high to several feet, so choose appropriate size 

for that area where they are to be planted. They are usually 

started in the house about the end of April, to be set outside 

after any danger of frost is past. Dahlias are planted so that 

the long fingers are spread out pointing down, with the top of 

the root just below soil level, in a sunny spot sheltered from 

the wind. 

The larger types will need staking. If a stake is set in at planting 

time it will avoid possible root damage which could occur 

if you tried to insert a stake into the ground later. 

Fall care is the same as for tuberous begonias. 

For more detailed information on summer flowering bulbs, please visit our bookstore. 

BULBS

BULBS 

60 

BULBS GroWinG iriS 

When to Plant 

For best results, iris should be planted in July, August or 

September. It’s imperative that the roots of newly planted Iris 

be well-established before the growing season ends. Iris are 

also available as potted plants in the perennial lot, and these 

can be planted in spring, summer or fall. 

Where to Plant 

Iris need at least a half-day of sun. In extremely hot climates 

some shade is beneficial, but in most climates iris do best 

in full sun. Be sure to provide your iris with good drainage, 

planting either on a slope or in raised beds. 

Soil Preparation 

Iris will thrive in well-drained garden soil. Planting on a slope 

or in raised beds helps ensure good drainage. If your soil is 

heavy, coarse sand may be added to improve drainage. Gypsum 

is an excellent soil conditioner that can improve most clay 

soils. The ideal pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic), but iris are tolerant 

in this respect. To lower the pH of your soil, sulphur may be 

added to alkaline soils. 

Depth to Plant 

Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed 

and the roots are spread out facing downward in the 

soil. In very light soils or in extremely hot climates, covering 

the rhizome with 1 inch of soil may be desirable. Firm the soil 

around each rhizome and then water to help settle the soil. A 

common mistake is to plant iris too deeply. 

Distance Apart 

Iris are generally planted 12 to 24 inches apart. Close planting 

gives an immediate effect, but closely planted iris will need to 

be thinned often. Plants spaced further apart will need less 

frequent thinning. 

Watering 

Newly set plants need moisture to help their root systems 

become established. Specific watering information depends on 

your climate and your soil, but keep in mind that deep watering 

at long intervals is better than more frequent shallow watering. 

Once established, iris normally don’t need to be watered 

except in arid areas. Over watering is a common error. 

Fertilization 

Specific fertilizer recommendations depend on your soil type, 

but bone meal, superphosphate and10-52-10 are all effective. 

A light application in the early spring and a second light application 

about a month after bloom will reward you with good 

growth and bloom. Avoid using anything high in nitrogen, as 

nitrogen encourages rot problems. 

Thinning Old Clumps 

Iris need to be thinned or divided before they become overcrowded, 

generally every 3-4 years. If iris are allowed to become 

too crowded the bloom will suffer. Some varieties may 

crowd others out and disease problems may be aggravated. 

Old clumps may be thinned by removing the old divisions 

at the centers of the clumps and leaving new growth in the 

ground, or you may dig up the entire clump and remove and 

replant the large new rhizomes. 

General Garden Care 

Keep your iris beds clean and free of weeds and debris, allowing 

the tops of the rhizomes to bask in the sun. Bloom stems 

should be cut off close to the ground after blooming. Healthy 

green leaves should be left undisturbed, but diseased or brown 

leaves should be removed. 

tiPS for iriS GroWerS 

Divide clumps of bearded iris every 3 to 5 years 

for best bloom; remember they like good drainage 

and plenty of sun. Clean up and burn dead bearded 

iris leaves in the fall or spring to help control iris 

border. Plant plenty of yellows and blues for best 

visual results. Lavenders add sparkle! There are 

many shorter growing iris to choose from, including 

early blooming dwarfs such as dwarf bearded (Iris 

pumila), arctic (I. setosa), beardless Japanese (I. 

ensata) and Siberian iris (I. sibirica). Irises do not 

require frequent division; many beardless irises also 

do well in moist spots

For storage, temperatures and moisture conditions vary 

for each bulb species. The following list is compiled 

from the Netherlands Flowerbulb Information Center 

at www.bulb.com. Some of the directions refer to 

container grown bulbs and other directions for bulbs 

planted out in the ground. 

Achimenes - Leave in container, dry out planting medium, 

and place at 16-21°C. 

Agapanthus - Leave in container with slightly moist 

planting medium and place at 2-13°C. 

Amaryllis belladonna - Store in container at 13-21°C 

Anemone coronaria (St. Brigid and De Caen) - Store 

dry at 10-13°C. It is better to leave in the ground and 

cover. 

Begonia (Tuberous Hybrids) - Dig in fall, and store in 

dry peat at 2-5°C. 

Canna - Dig in fall, store in dry peat or vermiculite at 

5-10°C 

Crinum - Store in slightly moist sand at 2-7°C. If grown 

indoors in a container, place in a bright room with cool 

(13°C) night temperatures. 

Crocosmia (Montbretia) - Store in peat or vermiculite 

at 2-5°C. 

Dahlia - Harvest tuberous roots in fall and store in vermiculite 

or dry sand at 2-7°C. 

Eucomis - Store dry at 13-20°C. 

Freesia - Store in containers dry at 25-30°C. 

Galtonia - Store dry in vermiculite at 17-23°C. 

Gladiolus - Harvest after foliage dies and before the 

BULBS StorAGe 

first frost. Store dry at 5-13 °C. 

Gladiolus Callianthus (Acidanthera bicolor) - Harvest 

in the fall before frost, dry, clean carefully, and store at 

13-20°C. 

Haemanthus - Bring containers indoors and either store 

dry or continue growing at 13-18°C. 

Hymenocallis - If container-grown, bring indoors and 

grow at 13-18°C. To store bulbs, harvest them carefully 

leaving soil around the roots, and store at 16-21°C. 

Ixia - Store dry at 20-25°C. 

Liatris - Store in moist peat at 2°C. 

Lilium - Best left in the ground, but can be stored in 

moist peat at 2°C. 

Nerine - Store dry or in ventilated container at 2°C. 

Ornithogalum - Store dry at 21-27°C. 

Oxalis- Store in peat or vermiculite at 2-5°C. 

Ranunculus - Store dry at 10-13°C. 

Sandersonia aurantiaca - Store in peat or vermiculite 

at 13°C. 

Schizostylis - Place in moist peat at 7°C. 

Sparaxis - Store dry at 20-25°C. 

Sprekelia - Store dry in peat or vermiculite at 5-13°C. 

Tigridia - Store in peat or vermiculite at -5°C. 

Veltheimia - store dry at 25°C. When in containers, take 

indoors for winter at 10-16°C. 

Zantedeschia (Calla Lilies) - Store dry at 10- 16°C. 

Take care not to injure the storage organs. 

Zephyranthes - Store bulbs in peat or vermiculite at 

10-16°C. 

BULBS 61

BULBS 

62 

BULBS SUmmer fLoWerinG 

Dahlias 



Planting 

Variety Color Bloom 

Size 

Height Depth/ 

Spacing 

Features 

DECORATIVE DAHLIAS: Good garden display; excellent cut flowers. 

Arabian Night Deep burgundy 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Popular deep color; rounded petals. 

Duet Red with white tips 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Excellent color 

Mystery Day Deep burgundy 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Elegant, slightly pointed petals. 

with white tips Nicely formed flower heads. 

Blue Bell Purple blue 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Best dahlia! 

Bonesta White with rose veins 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Stunning presentation 

DINNERPLATE: The following is only a sample of our many varieties. 

Babylon Purple Medium purple up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Large, well-formed blooms. 

Big Wow Wine red up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Clear green leaves; pointed petals. 

Fleur Pure white up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart White 

Grand Prix Yellow with up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Incurved petals give 

white tips. interesting texture. 

Café au Lait Creamy mocha up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Beautiful in fall arrangements. 

GALLERY: A shorter variety excellent for pot, container, and garden. 

Art Fair white; greenish yellow center 3” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Excellent for fall pot displays. 

Cezanne Yellow 3” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Clear, vibrant yellow. 

Singer Deep red 3” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Good flower form; 

GIANT BALL: Rounded, multi-headed flowers. 

Babette Lavender pink 5”-6” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Deep color. 

Belinda Pink Soft rose pink 5”-6” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Charming in summer arrangements. 

Evelyn White with 5”-6” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Bloom in abundance 

lavender tips. over a long period. 

Marble Ball white with purple streaks 5”-6” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Pristine. 

CACTUS: Long narrow petals give a starburst cactus-like appearance. 

Black Cat Dark Maroon 5”-6” 20”-50” 3” deep/12” apart Excellent garden or border plant. 

Fire Bird Fiery red; gold center 5”-6” 20”-50” 3” deep/12” apart Tall, striking plant. 

Mixed Peppermint White with rose streaks 5”-6” 20”-50” 3” deep/12” apart Extra large flower heads up to 8”. 

Red Pygmy Blood Red 5”-6” 20” 3” deep/12” apart Border type at around 1.5 feet tall. 

POWDER PUFF: A new class of Dahlias with soft, multi-petalled rounded center. 

Blue Bayou Double purple 6”-10” 24”-36” 3” deep/12” apart Interesting color 

Lambada Soft rose petals, 

creamy white center 

6”-10” 24”-36” 3” deep/12” apart Similar appearance to Scabiosa 

River Dance Red flowers 6”-10” 24”-36” 3” deep/12” apart Exclusive to independent garden 

centers. 

Arabian Nights Dahlia Duet Dahlia 

Babette Dahlia 

Red Pygmy Dahlia 

Big Wow Dahlia 

Blue Bayou Dahlia 

Lambada Dahlia 

Blue Bayou Dahlia 

Cafe au Lait Dahlia 

Bonesta Dahlia

BULBS 

SUmmer fLoWerinG 

Dahlias 



Planting 


Size 

Height Depth/ 

Spacing 

Features 

WATERLILY: similar in appearance to waterlily flowers. 

Le Castel White 4”-5” 40”-45” 3” deep/12” apart Traditional color 

Sam Hughes Dark maroon 4”-5” 40”-45” 3” deep/12” apart Beautiful when paired with yellow. 

Sympathy Buttercup yellow 4”-5” 40”-45” 3” deep/12” apart Blends with summer color palettes 

IMPRESSION: single blooms with a contrasting ruff. 

Famoso Sunny yellow 3” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Solid, strong yellow 

Fantastico Cherry red with 3” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Red and white compliment each 

white ruff other 

Festivo Scarlet with gold 3” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Nice impact 

BORDER: shorter plants that grow without staking. 

Bluesette Purple and pink 4”-5” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Unusual color combination 

Extase Salmon and gold 4”-5” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Pink and yellow compliment each 

other 

Begonias 

Planting 


Size 

Height Depth/ 

Spacing 

Features 

ROSE FORM Pink, scarlet, white, yellow, 4”-5” 14”-18” Concave side up just Double flowers similar in shape to 

apricot, peach, rose, salmon below the surface camelia or rose blossoms. 

Picottee: Yellow with red edge, 

white & pink, white & bright red 

6”-12” apart 

HANGING Copper, orange, pink, red, rose, 3”-4” na Concave side up just Fully double flowers 

BASKET white, yellow, white/pink, below the surface Bright non-fading colors 

yellow/red 6”-12” apart Plant in partial to full shade. 

NON-STOP Copper, pink, red, yellow, white 2.5” 8”-12” Concave side up just Continuous bloom; early floweryellow/red, 

apricot below the surface ing. Excellent for window boxes, 

6”-12” apart patios, and low borders. 

CRISPA Red/white, red/yellow 3” 12”-18” Concave side up just Large single flowers with frilled, 

below the surface 

6”-12” apart 

ruffled edges of a different color. 

CAMELLIA Scarlet, yellow, pink, white 3” 12”-18” Concave side up just Bright, clear colors. 

below the surface 

6”-12” apart 

Beautiful flower form. 

RUFFLED White, copper, pink, yellow, 3” 12”-18” Concave side up just Unusual fringed flower petals. 

CAMELIA orange, red below the surface Large, even blooms. 

Picottee:Cream/apricot, white/red, 

white/pink, yellow/red 

6”-12” apart 

Famoso Dahlia Extase Dahlia 

Bluesette Dahlia 

Le Castel Dahlia 

Sympathy Dahlia 

Rose Form Begonia 

Hanging Basket Begonia 

Non-Stop Begonia 

BULBS 6 

Camellia Begonia 

Ruffled Camelia Begonia

BULBS 

6 

BULBS 


Gladioli 



Planting 

Variety Height Depth/ 

Spacing 

Features 

ORCHID up to 24” 6”/6” Smaller delicate blossoms; best planted in clumps. 

Types available: Charm, Prins Klaus, Charming Beauty, and Elvira in shades from white to deep pink. 

LANDSCAPE 36”-42” 6”/6” Need no staking; perfect for small-scale gardens. 

Types available: Coral Seas (soft coral); Award (pink); Florida (yellow with red blotch); High Seas (lavender) 

Land O’ Lakes (magenta with white stripes); Norseman (brilliant red); Sunbold (golden yellow); White Wings (white) 

POPULAR 

VARIETIES 

48”-60” 6”/6” Excellent cut flowers with large blossoms. 

Types available: Glowing Orange; Golden Yellow; Snow White; Vibrant Red; Deep Red; Light Yellow; Peach Parfait; Rosy Pink; 

Lavender & White; Pink & Red; White & Red; Yellow & Red 

DUTCH HYBRIDS 48” 6”/6” Extra-large corms; unique colors. 

Types available: Flevo Eyes (white with raspberry blotch); Don Juan (raspberry red with white throat); 

Flevo Safari (Crimson with white brushmark); many more varieties available. 

CALIFORNIA 

NOVELTY 

GLADS 

48” 6”/6” Large flowers in unusual colors. 

Types available: Airborne (rich royal purple); Cloud Nine (begonia pink); Great Lakes (light blue); Mr. Lincoln (rich dark red); 

Green with Envy (green); Popcorn (pale yellow with cream edge). 

Lilies 

Planting 


Spacing 

Features 

ASIATIC 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” Reliably hardy; earliest of the lilies to come into bloom. 

Types available: Pair of Giraffes ( orange with red spots); Chianti (vintage pink); La Toya (magenta purple); 

Marseilles (pretty pink & white); many more varieties available! 

ASIATIC PIXIE 12” 6”-10”/12” Can be used as an annual when planted in pots 

Great in perennial garden. 

Types available: Butter Pixie (primrose yellow); Crimson Pixie (bright red); Denia (soft cherry pink); Orange Pixie (orange) 

ORIENTAL up to 48” 6”-10”/12” Large, beautifully fragrant flowers; full sun to part shade. 

Favorite of florists; usually the last to bloom. 

Types available: Arena (Huge white flowers with yellow markings); Cascablanca (white); Tom Pounce (pink petals with white) 

Starfighter (wine red edged in white with burgundy spotting); Stargazer ( bright red to pink with white margins) 

FAIRDALE HYBRID 

DWARF ORIENTAL 

LILIES 

18” 6”-10”/12” Good for pot culture; very fragrant. 

Types available: Gold Nymph: (white petals with yellow stripes and spots); Pink Nymph (pink with dark pink spots); 

Red Nymph: (pink petals with white edges an dark pink stripes); Silver Nymph (bright silvery white) 

Charm Gladiolus Airborne Gladiolus 

Elvira Gladiolus 

Green With Envy Gladiolus 

Flevo Eyes Gladiolus 

Popcorn Gladiolus 

Chianti Lily 

Acapulco Lily 

Stargazer Lily 

Casablanca Lily

Lilies 

BULBS 




Planting 


Spacing 

Features 

TRUMPET 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” Large trumpet shaped fragrant flowers. 

Tolerates partial shade. 

Regal’ does well in Calgary area. 

Types available Golden Splendour (yellow); Pink Perfection (pink); African Queen (yellow with garnet brown markings); 

Regal (white with maroon) 

L.A. HYBRIDS 40” 6”-10”/12’ Combine the best features of asiatics with longiflorums 

Large waxy flowers; subtle fragrance. 

Types available: Fangio (dark pink); Rodeo (clear pink with fuschia tips); Royal Perfume (deep fiery red) 

TIGER 36” 6”-10”/12” Garden favorites since Victorian times; very easy to grow. 

Broad, slightly recurved petals dotted with black spots. 

Types available: 

OTHER 

Tigrinium Splendens (gleaming salmon orange); Tigrinium Rose (rich pink with black dots); 

Yellow Star (buttery yellow with black dots); Sweet Surrender (white flowers with maroon dots) 

Lilium Citronella 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” Lemon yellow with dark brown spots 

Lilium Rubrum 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” White and pink 

lilium Tenufolium 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” Red and orange 

Other 

Planting 

Variety Colors Depth/ Features 

Spacing 

ACIDANTHERA White with purple 3” deep/ Similar to gladioli, having sword-shaped leaves and flower spikes. 

BICOLOR MURILAE blotch at throat. 6” apart Originally from high mountain regions of East Africa. 

ANEMONE White, lavender, blue 3” deep/ Soak tubers overnight then plant in partially shaded moist area. 

pink, or purple 6” apart Many varieties 

BABIANA Violet, blue, and red 2” deep/ Flowers similar to freesias; leaves and stems are hairy. 

2” apart Common name is ‘Baboon Root’. 

BLETILLA STRIATA White, blue, pink, 1” deep/ Terrestrial orchid; grow outside in hanging baskets in summer 

amethyst red, purple 4” apart Originally from Asia; common name is ‘Chinese Ground Orchid’ 

BRODIAEA SPECIES Lavender Funnel-shaped flowers and narrow leaves; needs full sun. 

4” apart Flowers after the leaves die down. 

CALADIUM No flowers but 2” deep/ Leaf colors in shades of green, white, red, and pink with obvious 

brilliant leaf color 4” apart veins. Leaves hate wind - plant in a partially shaded, moist, 

sheltered area. 

CALLA LILY White, pink, yellow, 4” deep/ Flower bract surrounds central spike covering small, true flowers. 

(Zantedeschia species) rust, various colors 16” apart Requires full sun, heavy watering, acid soil, and good drainage. 

Regal Lily Golden Splendour Lily 

African Queen Lily 

Royal Perfume Lily 

Yellow Star Lily 

Sweet Surrender Lily 

Tigrinium Splendens Lily 

Acidanthera Bicolor Murilae 

BULBS 6 

Calla Lily 

Caladium

BULBS 

66 

BULBS SUmmer fLoWerinG 

Other 

Variety Colors 

Planting 

Depth/ 

Spacing 

Features 



CANNA Orange, red, pink, 3” deep/ Large, dramatic feature at the back of a perennial bed. 

or yellow 18”-36” apart Canna will bloom longer if dead flowers are removed. 

CHILDANTHUS Yellow 1” deep/ Fragrant, lily-like flowers in a cluster at the top of a stem. 

FRAGRANS 4” apart Prefers full sun; long-lasting as a cut flower. 

COLOCASIA NA 2”-3” deep/ Grown as an ornamental for its large leaves. 

(ELEPHANT EARS) 3’ apart Plant in partial shade in moist or wet soil near ponds. 

CROCOSMIA Deep orange 2” deep/ Flowers on long branched stems with sword-shaped leaves. 

CROCOSMIFLORA 4” apart Flower spikes make attractive, long-lasting cut flowers. 

EUCOMIS SPECIES Greenish-white barely covered/ Common name is ‘Pineapple Lily’; two foot high flower spike with 

6” apart small star-shaped flowers topped with bracts resembling a pineapple. 

GALTONIA CANDICANS White 6” deep/ Tall spike with fragrant, bell-shaped flowers. 

8” apart Likes warm spots in the garden; common name: ‘Summer Hyacinth’ 

GLORIOSA Red & yellow 2” deep/ Tuberous, climbing plant with tendrils on leaves for support. 

ROTHSCHILDIANA one per 6” pot Prefers cool roots and moist soil. Climbs up to 6 feet tall. 

HOMERIA COLLINA Yellow or peach 3” deep/ Two-inch, cup-shaped, fragrant flowers last only a day but stems 

4” apart have many buds opening in succession. Full sun is needed. 

HYMENOCALLIS Creamy white barely covered/ Fragrant, spider-like flowers hence the common name ‘Spider Lily’. 

8” apart Best suited to a sunny spot - one plant per 5” pot. 

IXIA HYBRIDA Pink, yellow, red, 3” deep/ Long-lasting flowers make excellent cut flowers. 

orange, cream, white 2-3” apart Needs full sun; also known as ‘African Corn Lily’. 

NERINE Pink barely covered/ Funnel-shaped flowers with six spreading segments at tips. 

8” apart Needs full sun and ample water. 

POLIANTHES TUBEROS White barely covered/ Waxy tubular flowers have a powerful fragrance. 

5” Single and double forms available; full sun & good drainage. 

RANUNCULUS White, red, pink, gold, 1”-2” deep/ Requires full sun, and good drainage; several blooms on each stem. 

ASIATICUS range,bronze,picotte 3” apart Soak corms for an hour before planting. 

SPARAXIS TRICOLOR Yellow, pink, purple 2” deep/ Small funnel-shaped flowers in spike-like clusters. 

red, or white 2”-3” apart Full sun, good drainage, keep on the dry side. 

SPREKELIA Crimson 2” deep/ Spectacular 5” flowers resemble a waxy orchid. 

FORMOSISSIMA 2”-3” apart Full sun, ample water, and good drainage required. 

TIGRIDIA PAVONIA Orange, yellow, rose, barely covered/ Many of the large cup-shaped flowers are bi-coloured with spots. 

crimson, scarlet 6” apart Leaves form a pleated fan; full sun & good drainage required. 

ZEPHYRANTHES Pink, white 4” deep/ Crocus-shaped flower with needle-like foliage. 

CANDIDA 3” apart Grows best in full sun. 

Canna Lily 

Colocasia 

Crocosmia 

Nerine 

Ranunculus Asiaticus 

Tigridia Pavonia 

Zephyranthes Candida

BULBS forCinG inDoorS 

Many fall planted, spring flowering bulbs may be grown 

indoors to bloom during winter. Some of the most commonly 

forced indoor bulbs are small early tulip varieties, 

crocuses, daffodils, narcissus, and hyacinths. Pot these 

bulbs in a well-drained planting mix and containers with 

drainage holes. Plant the bulbs so that they are only half 

covered with potting soil. Allow for 1 in. (2.5 cm) or more 

of soil below the bulbs. For best results plant bulbs with 

the same flowering time in the same container. 

Most hardy outdoor bulbs require a cool dormancy 

period at 3-10 C (35-50 F) after they are potted. A cold 

room or an extra refrigerator can be put into use for this 

purpose. However, apples 

or cabbages must not be in 

the same area since they 

release ethylene gas which 

will damage the flower buds. 

These bulbs require total 

darkness during dormancy; 

be sure to cover the bulb 

pots if they are located in an 

unheated porch or daylightexposed 

area. 

The length the cool period 

varies depending on the 

type and variety of bulb. The 

cooling requirements for some of the popular bulbs have 

been listed below to help you with choosing compatible 

bulbs. 

During the cool period keep the soil barely moist; check 

every week or so to make sure the soil does not dry out. 

If the bulbs are kept too wet they can rot; dust bulbs with 

Bulb Dust before planting to prevent such problems. 

Hyacinths can be forced in special hyacinth glasses 

which are filled with enough water to touch the base of 

the bulb. They will still need to be cooled in water-filled 

glasses for 10-12 weeks. 

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum species) 

These bulbs, usually associated with Christmas, can be 

easily forced to flower indoors. They produce four to six 

large flowers, 8-9 in. (20-22 cm) on thick, hollow stems 

in colors of red, salmon, pink, coral, and white with pink 

stripes. 

Amaryllis should be planted in August to October for 

flowering during the Christmas season. Before planting, 

soak the base of the bulb in a shallow dish of lukewarm 

water for 12 hours. Pot the bulb in rich sandy soil to which 

bone meal (or a complete commercial fertilizer (5 ml or 

1 tsp) to a 6 in. (15 cm) pot) has been added. Select a 

pot that allows for 1 in. (2.5 cm) of space between the 

bulb and the edge of the pot. Set the bulb so that the 

neck and one half of the bulb are above the soil surface. 

Firmly pack the soil around the base of the bulb. Keep 

the soil only slightly moist until the bulb starts to grow, 

thereafter keep the soil evenly moist. 

Keep potted amaryllis in a cool place until their roots 

are well developed. If you want an early bloom increase 

the temperature to 22-25 C (70-75 F) when the leaves 

appear. After flower buds form feed these bulbs lightly 

with a complete fertilizer every two weeks throughout 

the blooming season. After the flowers fade cut them off. 

Remove the stems after they die, leaving at least 2 inches 

of stem on the bulbs. These plants will now produce 

large strap-like leaves. During the summer they need a 

sunny location; they may be 

put outdoors. Sink the pots into 

the ground up to the rim and 

fertilize and water them like 

you would any sun-loving annual 

or perennial. Bring them 

indoors before the first hard 

frost. Gradually reduce the 

watering and place the bulbs 

in a cool dark room. When the 

leaves have withered cut them 

off. Allow the bulbs to rest for 

several months in a frost-free 

dark place until the first signs 

of growth appear then repot 

the bulbs and repeat the whole process. 

Paperwhites (Narcissus tazetta) 

These bulbs produce fragrant white daffodil-like flowers 

with very little effort at all. They cannot be grown 

outdoors but are popular indoor-flowering bulbs. They 

do not require a cold dormancy period to encourage 

blooming. Plant these bulbs in pebbles in a shallow 

pan filled with water to just below the top of the pebbles 

and they will bloom in a few weeks. Since they cannot 

be forced twice they must be discarded after blooming. 

Some varieties are: 

CHINESE SACRED LILY: white and dark yellow 

GRAND SOLEIL D’OR: yellow 

ZIVA: white 

Name of Bulb 

Crocus 

Grape Hyacinth 

Hyacinth 

Iris (dwarf) 

Narcissus 

Paperwhites 

Siberian Squill 

Striped Squill 

Tulip 

Cooling Time (@ 3-10 C) 

5-8 weeks 

8-10 weeks 

10-12 weeks 

5-8 weeks 

10-12 weeks 

See paragraph above 

6-10 weeks 

6-10 weeks 

10-12 weeks 

BULBS 6

PerenniALS 

6 

PerenniALS yoUr qUeStionS 

Q: What is a perennial? 

A: In garden centers perennials are herbaceous plants 

that live for at least three years. There are however, some 

evergreen perennials like bergenia. 

Q: Will perennials flower the first year they are 

planted? 

A: Generally speaking perennials establish their roots 

when first planted and flower the following year. Plants 

that bloom early in the season are not likely to bloom in 

the garden the year they are planted. Later blooming ones 

will have more chance. 

Q: When is the best time to plant my perennials? 

A: Generally in Alberta we suggest planting after the May 

long weekend. Planting before then increases the risk of 

your new plants being killed by frost. 

Q: How can I have flowers all summer long? 

A: Make sure to include plants that flower in spring, 

summer and fall as well as long bloomers like blanket 

flowers (Gaillardia). 

Q: Who decides what will be the perennial of the 

year? 

A: The Perennial Plant Association has a committee that 

casts votes to choose one of four selected plants. Criteria 

for the plants are: climate types, low maintenance, easy 

to propagate, true to seed, and exhibits multiple seasonal 

interest. 

Q: Which perennials attract butterflies? 

A: Asters, blanket flowers (Gaillardia), daylilies 

(Hemerocallis), goldenrods (Solidago), and scabiosa 

are a few of the many plants butterflies enjoy. 

Q: What perennials grow under spruce trees? 

A: Look for dry shade plants such as bergenia, goatsbeard 

(Aruncus), lady’s mantle (Alchemilla), lamium, lily-of- 

the-valley (Convallaria), and snow-on-the-mountain 

(Aegopodium) and sweet woodruff (Galium). 

Q: Am I limited to Zone 3 Plants? 

A: No, zones are guidelines only. There are areas in your 

yard that are warmer than Zone 3. You should also mulch 

your plants in after the ground is frozen for the winter. 

You will never know what you can grow in your garden 

until you try. 

Q: Why won’t my peony bloom? 

A: Don’t expect flowers on a peony in an area that is too 

dry or too shady. Newly planted peonies usually will not 

bloom for one or two years. Peony crowns must be planted 

no shallower than 1” deep and no deeper than 2” below 

the surface, any deeper and they will never bloom. 

Q: Why won’t my daylily bloom? 

A: Plants must be established in good soil; the area must 

not be too shady or too dry. Various weather conditions 

can reduce blooming. Essentially, daylilies bloom better 

some years than others. 

Q: Are perennials considered low maintenance? 

A: To some degree yes! Many should still be divided 

every few years to maintain vigour. Others may be 

short-lived but could be allowed to re-seed themselves. 

Lower maintenance perennials include balloon flowers 

(Platycodon), bleeding hearts (Dicentra), coneflowers 

(Echinacea), and peonies (Paeonia). 

Q: When can I transplant my iris? 

A: Iris plants should be transplanted every 3 to 4 years 

(2 to 3 blades per section) just after they finish blooming. 

Cut away all soft and rotten pieces, divide into sections. 

Replant as soon as possible, with the top of the rhizome 

no more than one inch below the soil. Iris will push itself 

above the soil. 

Q: I have been told that my perennial needs dividing. 

What does this mean and how can I do it? 

A: Regular dividing of perennials every 3-4 years keeps 

the plants healthy and blooming well. Crowding can often 

reduce flowering. The best time to divide is early spring 

just as the new growth begins to emerge if the plant 

blooms in mid-summer or later. If it is spring-blooming 

wait until the flowering is finished and then divide. To 

divide the plant dig up as much of the root ball as possible 

with a spade or a garden fork. Cut the root ball into 

approximately 4 in.(10cm) pieces, depending on the size 

of the clump. Plant the divided perennials at the same 

depth as they were before you dug them up. Ensure that 

they get constant moisture when transplanted. When 

the top growth begins to show, fertilizer may be applied. 

Generally the divided plant will take a year to recover 

and eventually surpass its original state. However, if not 

divided the plant will gradually fade over time. 

Q: Is it a good idea to deadhead my perennials? 

A: Removing the spent flowers or forming seed heads is 

good practice for some plants as it can encourage further 

flowering. If the seed heads have already formed then 

scatter the seeds around your garden, some may take – 

just be careful when weeding in the spring! For plants like 

delphiniums, hollyhocks (Alcea), and foxglove (Digitalis), 

leave the seeds to develop and soon you’ll have a thick 

bed of flower spikes. These newly seeded perennials can 

take over two years to become fully established.

PerenniALS 

0 

PerenniALS fAVoriteS 

Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis) 

These plants produce long, lacy, one-sided clusters of 

heart-shaped, rose or red-colored flowers during May and 

June. Prune back the ragged foliage after flowering. The 

variety ‘Alba’ is a white flowering form. Dwarf bleeding 

heart (Dicentra formosa) has feathery leaves and produces 

heart-shaped pink flowers during May and June. Plant in 

partially shaded or shady locations with some protection 

from the wind. 

Elephant Ears (Bergina cordifolia) 

This is one of the first perennials to emerge in the spring. It 

is noted for it’s large green leaves and dainty prink flower 

clusters on long slender stems. In the fall, leaves turn an 

attractive reddish-bronze. They add interest to the garden 

through fall and winter since this plant is an evergreen. 

Silver mound (Artemesia schmidtiana ‘Silver 

Mound’) 

These plants have soft, fern-like silvery gray foliage that 

forms a compact mound. This foliage creates a stunning 

contrast in the landscape, especially next to evergreen 

shrubs. They produce small, inconspicuous white or yellow 

flowers. Use silvermound as rock garden, accent, 

or edging. Plant these perennials in sunny well-drained 

locations. 

Coral Bells (Heuchera spp.) 

These plants have mostly basal, long-stalked, rounded, 

and lobed leaves. Open flower spikes arise from the basal 

leaves to display tiny bell-shaped flowers all summer 

long. Available with dark leaves. Plant these perennials 

as rock garden or edging plants in partially shaded fertile 

locations. The new varieties of coral bells can add stunning 

color to your perennial beds; from the shiny black leaves 

of ‘Obsidian’ to the striking bright yellow green foliage of 

‘Lime Ricky’. 

Daylily (Hemerocallis spp.) 

These hardy, reliable plants have narrow, basal, and 

arching sword-like leaves. They produce long stalked, 

funnel-shaped flower clusters from July to September. The 

flowers are available in a wide range of colors – cream, 

yellow, orange, red, pink, purple, and maroon. Plant these 

heat and drought tolerant perennials in sunny, well-drained 

locations. 

Hostas (Hostas spp.) 

These perennials are grown primarily for their foliage 

value. They form attractive clumps of large, dark green 

leaves edged with broad white bands. White or lilac tubular 

short flower spikes arise from the compact foliage in late 

summer. Plant these perennials in shaded or partially 

shaded, moist locations. 

Irises (Iris spp.) 

German or bearded irises have wide, sword-shaped, basal 

leaves. They produce six-petalled blossoms (three upright

and three descending) in early summer. The flowers are 

available in a wide range of colors – blue, blue/white, 

bronze, pink, purple, red, white, and yellow. Plant in sunny, 

well-drained, low-fertile locations. 

Dwarf irises are miniature versions of german irises and 

are good for rock or border plantings in sunny, well-drained 

locations. 

Siberian irises produce slender, delicate, blue or white 

blossoms above a mass of grassy leaves in May or June 

and are the most shade-tolerant iris. 

Lilies (Lilium spp.) 

These stately plants have narrow green leaves borne 

along many thick, upright stems. They are available in a 

wide variety of sizes and colors including orange, pink, 

red, white, and yellow. The large flowers are produced on 

strong stems, perfect for cutting. Plant these perennials 

in sunny or partially shaded locations. 

Peonies (Paeonia spp.) 

These plants have glossy, dark green, lobed foliage that 

remains attractive all summer long. During June, on the 

tip of each of their many upright stems, they produce the 

well-known, fragrant, double flowers in red, pink, or white. 

These flowers make excellent old-fashioned cut flowers. 

Plant the root so the eyes are face up and are exactly 1 in. 

PerenniALS fAVoriteS 

(2.5cm) below the soil surface. Peonies can be divided in 

the spring or fall and are best left in the same location for 

five years before dividing. Plant these popular perennials 

in sunny, fertile locations. 

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) 

People are falling in love with the long blooming easy-care 

echinacea. Most people know this plant for its health benefits, 

but it is also a very pretty plant! Similar to rudbeckia, 

they have the dark brown centers. New varieties are being 

introduced faster than you can spell echinacea. Not 

only are there the popular purple and white flowers we 

all know, but now yellow, orange, pink and mango colors 

are available. Echinacea is best planted in full sun and 

will tolerate hot, dry areas. Great companion plants are 

rudbeckia, salvia, and ornamental grasses. 

Sedum (Sedum spp.) 

This large group of succulent plants are low-growing and 

mat-forming. They feature and endless variety of foliage 

types and produce star-like flowers in red, pink, purple, 

yellow, or white. Plant these perennials as groundcovers in 

hot, dry locations. Be sure to contain roots with edging. 

PerenniALS 1

PerenniALS 

2 

Dianthus barbatus 

Sweet William 

Echinacea purpurea 

Purple Coneflower 

Gaillardia grandiflora 

Blanket Flower 

Heliopsis helianthoides 

False Sunflower 

Heuchera ‘Snowstorm’ 

Coral Bells 

Dicentra spectabilis 

Bleeding Heart 

Erigeron speciosus 

Fleabane 

Gentiana acaulis 

Gentian 

Hemerocallis ‘Chicago Ruby’ 

Daylily 

Digitalis purpurea 

Foxglove 

Eryngium ‘Sapphire Blue’ 

Sea Holly 

Geranium ‘Johnsons Blue’ 

Cranesbill 

Heuchera ‘Chocolate Ruffles’ 

Coral Bells 

Dianthus delt. ‘Zing Rose’ 

Dianthus 

Eupatorium ‘Chocolate’ 

Joe Pye Weed 

Helictotrichon sempervirens 

Blue Oat Grass 

Heuchera ‘Palace Purple’ 

Coral Bells 

Hosta ‘Francee’ Hosta ‘Frances Williams’ Hosta ‘Golden Tiara’

Hosta ‘Sum & Substance’ Iris germanica ‘China Dragon’ 

German Bearded Iris 

Lewisia cotyledon 

Lewisia 

Lupinus ‘Russel Hybrid’ 

Lupine 

Nepeta faasenii 

Catmint 

Phlox paniculata 

Tall Phlox 

Ligularia ‘The Rocket’ 

Ligularia 

Lysimachia nummularia 

Creeping Jenny 

Paeonia lactiflora 

Peony 

Phlox subulata ‘Candy Stripes’ 

Creeping Phlox 

Lavandula ‘Munstead’ 

Lavender 

Lilium ‘Lollypop’ 

Asiatic Lily 

Malva moschata 

Musk Mallow 

Papaver nudicuale 

Iceland Poppy 

Platycodon grandiflorus 

Balloon Flower 

Leucanthemum ‘Becky’ 

Shasta Daisy 

Linum perenne 

Perennial Flax 

Monarda didyma 

Beebalm 

Persicaria bistorta 

Fleeceflower 

Primula auricula 

Primrose 

PerenniALS

PerenniALS 

Rudbeckia f. ‘Goldsturm’ 

Black-Eyed Susan 

Sempervivum x hybrids 

Hens & Chicks 

Veronica spicata 

Spike Speedwell 

2006 Dianthus gratianopolitanus 

(Firewitch) 

2005 Helleborus x hybridus 

(Lenten Rose) 

2004 Athyrium niponicum 

2003 Leucanthemum x 

superbum ‘Becky’ 

2002 Phlox ‘David’ 

2001 Calamagrostis x 

acutiflora ‘Karl 

Foerster’ 

2000 Scabiosa columbaria 

‘Butterfly Blue’ 

1999 Rudbeckia fulgida var. 

sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’ 

1998 Echinacea purpurea 

‘Magnus’ 

1997 Salvia ‘May Night’ 

Salvia nemerosa ‘Maynight’ 

Sage 

Tanacetum coccineum 

Painted Daisy 

Vinca minor 

Periwinkle 

PERENNIAL OF THE YEAR 

1996 Penstemon digitalis 

‘Husker Red’ 

1995 Perovskia atriplicifolia 

1994 Astilbe ‘Sprite’ 

1993 Veronica ‘Sunny 

Border Blue’ 

1992 Coreopsis verticillata 

‘Moonbeam’ 

1991 Heuchera micrantha 

‘Palace Purple’ 

1990 Phlox stolonifera 

Saponaria ocymoides 

Soapwort 

Thymus pseudolanuginosus 

Wooly Thyme 

Scabiosa ‘Butterfly Blue’ 

Pincushion Flower 

Trollius x cultorum 

Globeflower 

Nepeta ‘Waker’s Low’ 

Dianthus gratianopolitanus ‘Firewitch’ 

PerenniAL of tHe yeAr 

2007 

Heritage Perennial Profile 

Introduced in 1988 in Europe, Walker’s Low 

Catmint has become increasingly popular with 

each passing year due to its lovely blue-violet 

flowers and its long bloom time, attractive greygreen 

foliage, ease of propagation, lack of pest 

or disease problems, and low maintenance 

requirements.

PerenniALS ornAmentAL GrASSeS 

This interesting group of landscape plants is finally being 

seen and enjoyed in Alberta gardens. Ornamental grasses 

are grown for their colorful or striped foliage and showy 

seed heads. Grasses look their best when integrated into 

the mixed border along with perennials, annuals, shrubs 

and evergreens. Low maintenance designs may rely on 

ornamental grasses to provide their backbone. 

Blue Fescue (Festuca ovina glauca) 

Cool season, ht. and spread to 1 ft., hardiness zone 3. 

Clumps of fine blue grass; good color contrast plant. 

Likes sun. ‘Elijah Blue’ and ‘Skinner’s Blue’ varieties are 

available. 

Blue Lyme Grass (Elymus glaucus/racemosus) 

Warm-season, ht. and spread 3 ft., hardiness zone 3. 

Outstanding bright blue foliage color. Fast spreading 

clumps are aggressively invasive. Tan colored flower 

spikes appear in summer. Bloom time: July - August. 

Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens) 

Cool-season, ht.and spread 2-3 ft., hardiness zone 4. 

Perfect rounded clumps of intensely blue leaves. This 

non-spreader is the best blue grass for general purpose 

border use. Tan spikes appear above on graceful arching 

stems. Evergreen. 

Karl Foerster Grass 

(Calamagrostis x acutiflora ’Karl Foerster’) 

Cool season, ht. 4-5 ft., spread to 2 ft., hardiness zone 

3. Stiff, upright habit. Feathery greenish flower plumes 

appear in summer, then change colors until maturing into 

stiff wheat-colored spikes, which provide winter interest. 

Excellent specimens in borders. 2001 Perennial of the 

Year. 

Bulbous Oat Grass (Arrhenatherum elatius 

bulbosum) 

Cool-season, ht. and spread to 1 ft., hardiness zone 2. 

Bushy, low clumps of cream and green striped leaves. Tan 

color spikes in spring. Combines well with spring bulbs. 

Drought tolerant when established. 

Hair Grass (Deschampsia caespitosa) 

Cool-season, ht. to 3 ft., spread to 15 in., hardiness zone 

4. Clump-forming evergreen grass. Tufts of delicate flowers 

appear in early summer, gradually turning darker. Mass 

planting for best effect. Bloom time: May - August. 

Red Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum) 

Warm-season, ht and spread to 3 ft., hardiness zone 3. 

Airy clouds of flowers turn into red seed heads. Outstanding 

orange fall foliage color. Bloom time: July - August. 

Ribbon Grass (Phalaris arundinacea) 

Cool-season; hardiness zone 2. Fast spreading 

clumps of striped leaves; invasive; variegated varieties 

require sunlight for coloration. Good ground cover 

yet too aggressive for border or rockery. ‘Picta’ 

(Gardener’s Garters), ht. 3 ft., green and cream stripes. 

‘Rosea’ (Feesey Form), ht. 2 ft., tricolor pink, cream and 

green stripes. 

PerenniALS

PerenniALS 

6 

PerenniALS for SPeCiAL SitUAtionS 

ALPINE ROCKERY PLANTS 

Anemone - Windflower Gypsophila - Baby’s Breath 

Arabis - Rock Cress Heuchera - Coral Bells 

Armeria - Thrift Leontopodium - Edelweiss 

Aster - Alpine Aster Papaver - Alpine Poppy 

Aubrieta - Rock Cress Phlox - Creeping Phlox 

Campanula - Bellflower Primula - Primrose 

Dianthus - Pink Saponaria - Rock Soapwort 

Gentiana - Gentian Saxifraga - Rockfoil 

Geranium - Cranesbill 

GROUND COVERS 

Aegopodium - Snow-on-the-Mountain 

Antennaria - Pussy Toe Pachysandra - Japanese Spurge 

Arctostaphylos - Kinnikinnick Paxistima - Cliff Green 

Bergenia - Elephant Ears Polygonum - Fleece Flower 

Cerastium - Snow-in-Summer Potentilla - Cinquefoil 

Convallaria - Lily of the Valley Saxifraga - Saxifrage 

Cornus - Bunchberry Sedum - Stonecrop 

Hosta - Plantain lily Sempervivum -Hens & Chicks 

Hypericum - St. John’s Wort Vaccinium - Lingonberry 

Lysimachia - Creeping Jenny Vinca - Periwinkle 

SHADE OR PART SHADE 

Aegopodium - Snow-on-the-Mountain 

Ajuga - Bugleweed Hosta - Plantain Lily 

Aquilegia - Columbine Iris - Siberian 

Astilbe - False Spirea Lamium - Deadnetttle 

Bergenia - Elephant Ears Lobelia - Cardinal Flower 

Brunerra - Bugloss Myosotis - Forget-Me-Not 

Campanula - Bellflower Polemonium - Jacob’s Ladder 

Convallaria - Lily of the Valley Primula - Primrose 

Dicentra - Bleeding Heart Tradescantia - Spiderwort 

Ferns Vinca - Periwinkle 

Geranium - Cranesbill Viola - Violet 

Galium - Sweet Woodruff 

Heuchera - Coral Bells 

Pachysandra - Japanese Spurge 

Cimicifuga - Snakeroot 

ACID SOIL 

Caltha - Marsh Marigold Heuchera - Coral Bells 

Cimicifuga - Snakeroot Lupinus - Lupine 

Dicentra - Fringed Bleeding Heart Phlox - Woodland Phlox 

Digitalis - Foxglove Primula - Primrose 

Epimedium - Barrenwort Trillium 

Gentiana - Gentian 

MOIST SOIL 

Aruncus - Goatsbeard Lupinus - Lupine 

Brunnera - Siberian forget-me-not Monarda - Beebalm 

Hosta - Plantain Lily Phytostegia- Obiedient plant 

Iris - Japanese; Blue Flag Primula - Primrose 

Lobelia - Cardinal Flower Trollius - Globeflower 

DRY SANDY SOIL 

Achillea - Yarrow Linum - Perennial Flax 

Ajuga - Bugleweed Lychnis - Maltese Cross 

Artemisia - Silver Mound Paeonia - Peony 

Coreopsis - Tickseed Papaver - Iceland Poppy 

Echinops - Globe Thistle Penstemon - Beard Tongue 

Eupatorium - Joe Pye Persicaria - Fleeceflower 

Euphorbia - Cushion Spurge Rudbeckia - Rudbeckia 

Gaillardia - Blanket Flower Salvia - Sage 

Geranium - Cranesbill Sedum - Stonecrop 

Gypsophila - Baby’s Breath Yucca - Yucca 

PERENNIALS FOR BUTTERFLIES 

AND HUMMINGBIRDS 

Agastache - Anise-Hyssop Hesperis - Dame’s Rocket 

Alcea - Hollyhock Heuchera - Coral Bells 

Allium - Flowering Onion Liatris - Blazing Star 

Anaphalis - Pearly Everlasting Lobelia - Cardinal Flower 

Aquilegia - Columbine Malva - Mallow 

Asclepias - Milkweed Monarda - Beebalm 

Aster - Fall Aster Physostegia - Obedient Plant 

Chelone - Turtlehead Rudbeckia - Rudbeckia 

Coreopsis - Tickseed Scabiosa - Pincushion Flwr. 

Echinacea - Purple Coneflower Sedum - Stonecrop 

Echinops - Globe Thistle 

Eupatorium - Joe Pye Weed 

Solidago - Goldenrod 

Shooting Star 

PERENNIALS OR WEEDS? 

Proper management will prevent certain perennials from 

becoming a weed problem. Choose the right perennial for 

the right place and use each plant’s characteristics to your 

advantage whenever possible: ie. plant a self-seeding variety 

in a natural or informal area. If you need to control self-seeding 

plants, deadhead them regularly and keep your soil covered 

with mulch. Periodic division of spreading plants will help slow 

them down, as will barriers to stop invasive roots. To learn about 

managing specific perennials please feel free to call or come 

in and ask questions.

Names 

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Leaf 

Color Flower 

Color Bloom Soil 

Time Moisture Features/Uses 

Snow on the Mountain Marsh Marigold 

Bugleweed 

Sun 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

Aconitum cammarum 48/24 in. 3 green purple July to moist Bicolor purple and white flower combination. 

MONKSHOOD BICOLOR 120/60 cm white Aug. soil Useful for cut flowers or border. 

Aconitum napellus 54/24 in. 2 green purple July to moist Tall sturdy perennial looks good in large 

MONKSHOOD 135/60 cm Aug. soil border. Showy spikes of flowers good for cut 

flowers 

Aegopodium podagraria 12/24 in 1 green green- July to moist Vigorous ground cover with variegated 

SNOW-ON-THE-MOUNTAIN 30/60 cm white white Aug. soil foliage. Too invasive for the rock garden or 

border. 

Alchemilla mollis 12/24 in. 2 silver yellow June to well- Scalloped leaves for edging border. 

LADY’S MANTLE 30/60 cm green green July drained Sprays of flowers used in cut arrangements. 

Ajuga species 8/18 in. » 3 bronze purple May to moist Low ground cover with colored, round leaves. 

AJUGA-BUGLEWEED 15/45 cm June soil Used for mass planting. 

Anemone sylvestris 18/24 in. 2 green white May to well- Spreading ground cover with nodding flowers. 

ANEMONE-SNOWDROP 45/60 cm June drained Good cover for spring bulbs. 

Aquilegia x hybrida varies 2 green various May to moist & Popular perennial available in various colors. 

COLUMBINE-HYBRIDS June drained McKanna Giant has long spur flowers for 

cutting 

Arctostaphylos uva-ursi 6/6 in. 2 green light May to moist Native evergreen ground cover. 

KINNIKINNICK-BEARBERRY 15/15 cm pink June acidic Low growing plant for acid area under spruce. 

Aruncus dioicus 48/56 in. » 2 green creamy June to moist Large plant, lacy leaves. 

GOATSBEARD-GIANT 120/90 cm white July Good at waterside. 

Aruncus aethusifolius 12/12 in. » 2 green white June to moist Beautiful beside a water garden. 

GOATSBEARD-DWARF KOREAN 30/30 cm July soil Shorter size for a smaller garden. 

Astilbe species 36/30 in. » 3 green various June to moist Large showy flower spikes on lacy foliage. 

ASTILBE-FALSE SPIREA 90/75 cm Aug. soil Must have moist soil. 

Astrantia species 24/18 in. » 4 green pink, red June to moist Starry flowers look like Queen Anne’s lace. 

ASTRANTIA-MASTERWORT 60/45 cm white Aug. soil Use in shaded, moist area or as cut flower. 

Bergenia cordifolia 18/24 in. 2 green pink June to moist Large glossy green leaves turn bronze in fall. 

BERGENIA-HEARTLEAF 45/60 cm white July soil Clusters of flowers rise above foliage in 

spring. 

Brunnera macrophylla 18/18 in. » 2 green blue May to moist A true perennial forget-me-not. 

FORGET-ME-NOT, SIBERIAN 45/45 cm June Heart-shaped leaves. 

Caltha palustris 12/12 in. 2 green yellow May moist Buttercup flowers, heart-shaped leaves. 

CALTHA-MARSH MARIGOLD 30/30 cm soil wonderful, wet, waterside plant. 

PerenniALS 

Columbine 

Kinnikinnick

PerenniALS 

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Hosta Bleeding Heart 

Lily of the Valley 

Sun 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

Cimicifuga racemosa ‘Brunette’ 72/36 in. » 4 purple pale Aug to moist Lacy purple leaves and 

BUGBANE-BRUNETTE 200/90 cm pink Sept. fragrant pale pink flowers. 

Cimicifuga simplex 48/36 in. » 3 light white Sept to moist White flower in the fall. 

BUGBANE-WHITE PEARL 120/90 cm green Oct. 

Convallaria majalis 6/12 in. 1 green white May to well- Old fashioned, fragrant, bell-shaped flowers. 

LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY 15/30 cm June drained Good ground cover for shady areas. 

Cornus canadensis 6/8 in. » 2 green white May to moist Native ground cover with glossy leaves. 

BUNCHBERRY 15/20 cm June acidic Red berries and fall foliage. 

Corydalis flexuosa 12/12 in. » 4 green yellow June to moist & Long bloomer, self-seeds. 

CORYDALIS 30/30 cm Sept. drained Blue species not as hardy. 

Dicentra formosa hybrids 18/12 in. » 3 green white June to well- Compact mounds of ferny foliage. 

BLEEDING HEART-FERNLEAF 45/30 cm red Sept. drained Luxuriant red variety blooms all summer. 

Dicentra spectabilis 36/24 in. » 2 green pink May to well- Drooping chains of heart-shaped flowers! 

BLEEDING HEART 90/60 cm white June drained Classic shade perennial/old-fashioned 

favorite. 

Doronicum cordatum 16/12 in. » 2 green yellow May to moist & Heart-shaped leaves are attractive. 

LEOPARD’S BANE 40/30 cm June drained Showy daisy-like flowers are good for cutting. 

Epimedium species 12/12 in. 4 bronzy yellow May to moist Rare semi-evergreen foliage in various colors. 

BARRENWORT 30/30 cm green pink June soil Slow spreading ground cover for shaded area. 

Galium odoratum 8/24 in. » 3 green white May to moist Whorled leaves with aromatic flower clusters. 

SWEET WOODRUFF 20/60 cm July soil Excellent ground cover for moist shady area. 

Gaultheria procumbens 6/12 in. » 3 green light July to moist Shiny aromatic leaves on this ground cover. 

WINTERGREEN 15/30 cm pink Aug. acidic Pink flowers followed by red edible berries. 

Heuchera hybrid 24/18 in. 3 dark white June moist-well Leaves large and ruffled. 

CORAL BELLS-Chocolate ruffles 60/45 cm brown July drained Burgundy underneath 

Heuchera hybrid 18/12 in. 2 green scarlet June moist-well Bred in Morden Manitoba. 

CORAL BELLS-Northern Fire 45/30 cm mottled red July drained Flowers high over low foliage. 

Heuchera hybrid 18/18 in. 3 deep white June moist-well Leaves fade to bronze in Summer. 

CORAL BELLS-Palace Purple 45/45 cm purple July drained Plants vary from seed. 

Heuchera hybrid 18/12 in. 3 white/ cerise June moist Very bright, ruffled leaves 

CORAL BELLS-SNOW STORM 45/30 cm green pink July well drained 

Elegans 30/48 in. » 2 blue white July moist, The original and one of the best large-leafed 

HOSTA - SEIBOLDIANA 75/120 cm green well true blue hostas; leaves are heavily 

drained corrugated. 

Bunchberry 

Sweet Woodruff

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Color Flower 



Forget Me Not Jacob’s Ladder 

Bugleweed 

Sun 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

Hosta var. 24/36 in. » 2 green lilac July moist-well Slow Groundcover. 

HOSTA-FRANCEE 60/90 cm white edge drained 

Hosta var. 24/36 in. » 2 blue white July moist-well Specimen plant. Very showy. 

HOSTA-FRANCES WILLIAMS 60/90 cm yellow edge drained 

Hosta var. 14/12 in. » 2 green purple July moist-well Edging plant. Fast Grower. 

HOSTA-GOLDEN TIARA 35/30 cm yellow edge drained 

Hosta var. 24/48 cm » 2 light mauve August moist-well Fragrant flowers. Vigorous 

HOSTA-HONEYBELLS 60/120 cm green drained grower. 

Hosta var. 30/60 in » 2 golden lavender August moist-well Slug resistant. Very large 

HOSTA-SUM & SUBSTANCE 75/150 cm drained leaves 

Iris pseudacorus 48/24 in. 2 green yellow May to moist Attractive at the waterside. 

IRIS-YELLOW FLAG 120/60 cm June soil Similar to blue flag Iris. 

Lamium maculatum 12/12 in. 2 green pink May to well- Attractive ground cover with variegated 

LAMIUM-DEAD NETTLE 30/30 cm white white Sept. drained foliage. 

Ligularia ‘Desdemona’ 48/18 in. » 3 purple orange June to moist Huge, rounded, purple leaves. 

Ligularia dentata ‘Othello’ 120/45 cm July soil Tall spikes of orange flowers. 

LIGULARIA-DESDEMONA Useful for background of border. 

Ligularia stenocephala 6/3 ft. » 3 purple yellow June to moist Large, rounded, toothed leaves. 

LIGULARIA-THE ROCKET 200/90 cm July soil Tall background plant with yellow spikes. 

Lysimachia nummularia 4/18 in. 2 green/ gold May to moist Trailing stems quickly form thick carpet. 

CREEPING JENNY 10/45 cm yellow Aug. soil Used in hanging baskets or as ground 

cover. 

Myosotis sylvatica 8/8 in. 3 green true blue May to moist Showy spring display by self seeding 

FORGET-ME-NOT-Garden 20/20 cm pink June soil biennial. Used as under-planting with 

spring bulbs. 

Pachistima canbyi 12/18 in. » 2 green acidic Low growing, broadleaf evergreen. 

PACHISTIMA-CANBY 30/45 cm Suitable ground cover for shady area. 

Pachysandra terminalis 8/12 in. 3 green white May moist Glossy evergreen foliage for a ground 

JAPANESE SPURGE 20/30 cm acidic cover. Needs winter protection on the 

Prairies. 

Polemonium caeruleum 36/12 in. 2 green bluish May to moist Ladder-like leaflets. Bell-like bluish flowers. 

JACOB’S LADDER 90/30 cm white July soil Tall perennial for a shady border. 

Polygonatum species 24/12 in. » 3 green white May to moist Graceful stems add exotic touch to shady 

SOLOMON’S SEAL 60/30 cm June soil area.Delicate bell flowers hang from stems. 

PerenniALS 

Creeping Jenny 

Japanese Spurge

PerenniALS 

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Color Flower 



Primula auricula 8/8 in. 3 green mixed April moist Felt-like strawberry shaped leaves. 

PRIMROSE-AURICULA 20/20 cm various to May soil Wide range of flower colors with yellow eyes. 

Good for rock gardens or edging borders. 

Primula denticulata 12/10 in. » 3 green mixed April moist Ball shaped flowers in white and lavender 

PRIMROSE-DRUMSTICK 30/25 cm to May soil shade. Needs snow cover or mulch for winter. 

Primula vialii 24/12 in. » 3 green mauve- May to moist Gorgeous rocket shaped spikes of flowers in 

PRIMROSE-China Pagoda 60/30 cm pink July soil a dazzling mauve-pink combination. 

Primula ‘Wanda’ 6/12 in » 2 green purple April moist Double flowers for spectacular spring display. 

PRIMROSE-WANDA 15/30 cm pink to May soil Perhaps the hardiest Primrose. 

Pulmonaria species 18/12 in. » 3 green various April moist Attractive spotted leaves 

LUNGWORT 45/30 cm silver blue to May soil Good for mass plantings as ground cover 

spots pink 

Rodgersia species 4/3 ft. » 3 purple pink July moist Tinted large leaves; good as tall waterside 

RODGERSIA 120/90 cm bronze white soil plant. Misty plumes of flowers similar to 

astilbe. 

Tiarella cordifolia 12/12 in. » 4 green pink May to moist Evergreen with bronzy winter color. 

FOAMFLOWER 30/30 cm July soil Low clumps of foliage with flower sprays. 

Trollius x cultorum 36/24 in. » 2 green orange May to moist Large round, buttercup flowers and cut 

TROLLIUS-Globeflower 90/60 cm yellow June soil leaves. Popular in shady border or as cut 

flowers. 

Vinca minor 6/18 in. » 3 green violet May to well- Evergreen ground cover with glossy leaves. 

VINCA or PERIWINKLE 15/45 cm white Sept. drained Needs mulch or snow for winter protection. 

Viola cornuta 8/12 in. 2 green various May to moist Excellent for bedding, edging or rock gardens. 

VIOLA-Johnny Jump Up 20/30 cm Sept. soil Needs mulch or snow for winter protection. 

Viola labradorica 6/6 in. 4 purple purple May to moist Shorter rock garden violet. 

VIOLA-Labrador Violet 15/15 cm Sept. soil Purple leaves and flowers. 

FERNS: 

Adiantum pedatum 24/24 in. » 2 light n/a n/a moist Delicate fronds turn gold in fall. 

FERN-Northern Maidenhair 60/60 cm green Very beautiful. 

Athyrium filix-femina 24/24 in. » 3 bright n/a n/a moist Lacy-looking frond. Creeping rhizome. 

FERN-LADY 60/60 cm green 

Dryopteris filix-mas 24/24 in. » 2 dark n/a n/a moist Easy, elegant fern. 

FERN-MALE 60/60 cm green 

Matteucia struthiopteris 4/2 ft. » 1 green n/a n/a moist Native has deciduous fronds, edible fiddle 

FERN-FIDDLEHEAD/Ostrich 120/60 cm soil heads. Good ground cover for shady moist 

areas. 

Cactus 

Sun 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

perennial guarantee 

Perennial plants are guaranteed to start 

growing the first season only. 

This guarantee ends with the first fall frost. 

No over winter guarantee applies to these 

plants. 

For more information on our guarantees 

please see page 7.

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Achillea ptarmica 18/24 in. 2 green white June to well- Similar cut flowers to those of Baby’s 

YARROW-Sneezewort 45/60 cm Sept. drained Breath. Inclined to spread so good for 

massing. 

Achillea hybrids 30/24 in. 2 green various June to well- Good for cutting fresh or dried flowers. 

YARROW-HYBRIDS 70/60 cm Sept. drained Good for mass planting in the border. 

Achillea tomentosa 8/12 in. 2 green yellow May to well- Dwarf shorter, earlier blooming yarrow. 

YARROW-WOOLLY 20/30 cm July drained Useful rock garden plant. 

Aconitum cammarum 48/24 in. 3 green purple July to moist Bicolor purple & white flower combination. 

MONKSHOOD-BICOLOR 120/60 cm white Aug. soil Useful for cut flowers or border. 

Aconitum napellus 54/24 in. 2 green purple July to moist Tall sturdy perennial looks good in large 

MONKSHOOD 135/60 cm pink Aug. soil border. Showy spikes of flowers good for 

cut flowers 

Aegopodium podagraria 12/24 in 1 green green- July to moist Vigorous ground cover with variegated 

SNOW-on-the-MOUNTAIN 30/60 cm white white Aug. soil foliage. Too invasive for the rock garden or 

border. 

Alcea rosea 84/18 in. 2 green mixed July to well- Old-fashioned favorite biennial reseeds 

HOLLYHOCKS 200/45 cm Aug. drained itself. Best in back of border because of 

their stature. Large blooms available in 

double or single. 

Alchemilla mollis 12/24 in. 2 silver yellow June to well- Scalloped leaves for edging border. 

LADY’S MANTLE 30/60 cm green green July drained Sprays of flowers used in cut arrangements. 

Alyssum montanum 8/24 in. » 3 silver yellow May to well- Good spring blooming rockery plant. 

Aurinia saxatilis 20/60 cm June drained Varying shades of yellow flowers. 

ALYSSUM-Basket of Gold Ideal for area where cascading plant is 

desired. 

Anemone sylvestris 18/24 in. 2 green white May to well- Spreading ground cover with nodding 

ANEMONE-SNOWDROP 45/60 cm June drained flowers. Good cover for spring bulbs. 

Antennaria dioica 6/12 in. 1 silvery pink May to well- Forms dense carpet of silvery foliage. 

ANTENNARIA-Pussy Toes 15/30 cm June drained Drought tolerant ground cover. 

Anthemis sancti-johannis 18/36 in. 2 green yellow June to well- Hardy, showy members of the daisy family. 

Anthemis tinctoria 45/90 cm orange Aug. drained Excellent for cutting. Drought tolerant. 

ANTHEMIS-MARGUERITE Kelwayi has deep yellow flowers. 

Aquilegia x hybrida 36/24 in. 2 green various May to moist & Popular perennial available in various 

COLUMBINE-HYBRIDS 90/60 cm June drained colors. McKanna Giant has long spur 

flowers for cutting. 

Arabis species 8/24 in. 3 green red,pink May to well- Spring flowering plant cascades over rocks. 

ARABIS-WALLCRESS 20/60 cm white June drained Dead head flowers after blooming. 

Armeria pseudarmeria 24/12 in. 2 green white June to well- Taller border strain with various flower 

ARMERIA-LARGE THRIFT 60/30 cm red Aug. drained shades. Good for cutting, fresh or dried. 

Armeria juniperifolia 6/12 in. 3 green pink May to well- Excellent evergreen with grassy leaves. 

Armeria maritima ‘Alba’ 15/30 cm red July drained Flowers finally fade into papery 

Armeria ‘Dusseldorf Pride’ white everlastings. Suitable rock garden plants. 

ARMERIA-THRIFT Also called ‘sea pink’. 

Artemisia stelleriana 12/30 in. 2 silver well- Low growing leaves similar to dusty miller. 

ARTEMISIA-Silver Brocade 30/75 cm drained Excellent for edging or as ground cover. 

Artemisia ludoviciana 36/30 in. 3 silver well- Silver aromatic foliage. 

ARTEMESIA-Valerie Finnis 90/75 cm drained Drought tolerant plant for dry areas. 

Artemisia schmidtiana 12/18 in. 1 silver well- One of the most popular perennials! 

‘Silver Mound’ 30/45 cm drained Fine feathery foliage forms compact mound. 

ARTEMISIA-Silver Mound Good for color contrast. Soft to touch. 

Aster alpinus 12/12 in. 2 green pink May to well- Short plants display star-shaped daisies. 

ASTER-ALPINE 30/30 cm purple June drained Ideal for front of border or rockery. 

white 

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Aster-novae-angliae 48/36 in. 3 green red Aug. to well- Taller varieties are excellent for cut flowers. 

Aster novi-belgi 120/90 cm pink Sept. drained New England Asters are best for cutting. 

ASTER-FALL purple Michaelmas Daisies are fall blooming. 

Aubrieta hybrids 6/24 in. 4 gray- pink, red May to well- Popular rock garden plant. 

AUBRIETA-ROCKCRESS 15/60 cm green purple June drained Foliage cascades over banks and walls. 

Bergenia cordifolia 18/24 in. 2 green pink June to moist Large glossy green leaves turn bronze in 

BERGENIA-HEARTLEAF 45/60 cm white July soil fall. Clusters of flowers rise above foliage in 

spring. 

Campanula medium 36/12 in. » 2 green purple May to well- Old fashioned favorite with big bellflowers. 

BELLS-CANTERBURY 90/30cm white July drained Biennial, sometimes self-seeding. 

Campanula carpatica 9/12 in. » 2 green purple May to well- Cup-shaped flowers on compact clumps. 

BELLFLOWER-Carpathian 20/30 cm white June drained Blue Clips’ is one of our most popular 

perennials. 

Campanula cochlearifolia 4/12 in. » 2 green purple June to well- Alpine rockery plant with little bells. 

BELLFLOWER-Fairy Thimble 10/30 cm Aug. drained Fast spreading plant. 

Camp. rotundifolia‘Olympic’ 12/12 in. » 2 green lavender June to well- Also called Blue Bell of Scotland. 

BELLFLOWER-OLYMPIAN 30/30 cm Aug. drained Good in border or as cut flower. 

Campanula persicifolia 36/18 in. » 2 green purple June to well- Showy, taller bellflower blooms longer. 

BELLFLOWER-Peachleaf 90/45 cm white Aug. drained Strong stems good for cut flowers. 

Catananche caerulea 24/12 in. 3 gray/ lavender July to well- Cut papery flower for everlasting dried 

CUPID’S DART 60/30 cm green Aug. drained flower. Drought resistant plant for hot dry 

area. 

Cerastium tomentosum 12/24 in. 2 gray white May to well- Popular spreading plant. Drought tolerant. 

SNOW-IN-SUMMER 30/60 cm June drained One of the best ground covers for full sun 

light. 

Centaurea dealbata 30/24 in. 3 gray/ pink- June to well- Sturdy perennial for the border. Thistle-like 

CORNFLOWER-PERSIAN 75/60 cm green purple Aug. drained blooms for long lasting cut flowers. 

Centaurea macrocephala 4/2 ft 2 gray/ gold- June to well- Good for the back of a border. 

CORNFLOWER-GLOBE 120/60 cm green yellow Aug. drained Excellent for cutting, fresh or dried. 

Centaurea montana 24/24 in. 2 gray/ bluish- June to well- An old-fashioned favorite bluish flower. 

BACHELOR’S BUTTON 60/60 cm green purple Aug. drained Also known as ‘Mountain Bluet’. 

Chrysanthemum morifolium 12/8 in. » 3 green yellow Aug. to well- Hardier series of mums produces fall 

MUMS-MORDEN 30/20 cm bronze Sept. drained flowers. 

Chrysanthemum parthenium 24/12 in. » 3 green white June to well- Mum-like daisy flowers are good for cutting. 

FEVERFEW 60/30 cm yellow Sept. drained Foliage is aromatic. Formerly called 

matricaria. 

Clematis integrifolia 36/24 in. » 2 green indigo July- moist-well Sprawls does not vine. 

CLEMATIS SOLITARY 90/60 cm blue Aug. drained Dies to ground in winter. 

Coreopsis verticillata 36/12 in. 4 green yellow June to well- Bright daisy-like flowers are good for 

COREOPSIS-TICKSEED 90/30 cm gold Sept. drained cutting. Varieties with various color shades 

available. Moonbeam was the 1992 

Perennial of the Year. 

Delphinium grandiflorum 12/12 in. 3 green bluish- June to well- Dwarf bushy mounds. 

DELPHINIUM-BLUE ELF 30/30 cm purple Aug. drained Excellent for edging or massing. 

Delphinium x elatum 30/24 in. 3 green mix June to well- Colorful spikes of double flowers for cutting. 

DELPHINIUM-Magic Fountain 75/60 cm July drained Remove old flowers to induce repeat 

blooming. 

Dephinium elatum 6/3 ft. 2 green bluish- June to well- Tall colorful spikes of double flwers for 

DELPHINIUM-Pacific Giants 1.8/.9 m violet July drained cutting. Remove old flowers to induce 

repeat blooming. Requires staking. Good 

background to border. 

Dianthus gratianopolitanus 2/6 in. 3 green pink May to well- Dwarf rock garden plant. 

DIANTHUS-TINY RUBIES 5/15 cm June drained Grassy clumps of foliage.

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Dianthus barbatus 24/12 in. » 2 green red, pink June to well- Classic cottage, self-seeding, biennial plant. 

SWEET WILLIAM 60/30 cm white Aug. drained Deadheading increases fragrant cut flowers. 

Dianthus deltoides 8/18 in. 2 green pink,red June to well- Low spreading mat forming ground cover. 

DIANTHUS-MAIDEN PINK 20/45 cm white Aug. drained Varieties include popular Flashing Light. 

Dianthus gratianopolitanus 12/12 in. 2 green pink June to well- Flowers are sweet scented & good for 

DIANTHUS-CHEDDAR PINK 30/30 cm white,red Aug. drained cutting. Popular for edging and rockeries. 

Dianthus plumarius 12/12 in. 3 blue/ pink May to well- Bluish grassy-like foliage forms a wide 

DIANTHUS-CLOVE PINK 30/30 cm green white June drained clump. Carnation type flower is strong 

mix clove scented. 

Diactamnus 36/24 in. 2 green white, June to well- Super plant for the sunny border. 

GAS PLANT 90/60 cm lavender July drained Spike-like flowers rise above the foliage. 

Digitalis purpurea 48/18 in. » 4 green purple May to moist & Large showy spikes of flowers for cutting. 

FOXGLOVE-COMMON 120/45 cm pink, mix July drained Biennial but self seeds. 

Digitalis mertonensis 48/18 in. » 4 green pink June to moist & Compact foliage. Large tubular flowers. 

FOXGLOVE-PINK 120/45 cm Aug. drained Good for cutting. True perennial habit. 

Digitalis grandiflora 36/18 in. » 2 green yellow June to moist & Wind proof spikes of tubular flowers. 

FOXGLOVE-YELLOW 90/45 cm Aug. drained True perennial habit. Good for cutting. 

Dodecatheon meadia 12/6 in. » 2 green pink May to moist Delicate flowers from a flat rosette of 

SHOOTING STAR 30/15 cm June soil leaves. Mass planting in shady border. 

Echinacea purpurea 48/24 in 3 green purple July to well- Long-lasting daisies droop from brown 

CONEFLOWER 120/60 cm white Sept. drained cone. 

Echinops ritro 48/24 in. 2 green bluish- June to well- Globular blooms for cut & dried flowers. 

GLOBE THISTLE 120/60 cm purple Sept. drained Tall thistle-like plant for the back of the 

border. 

Erigeron speciosus 30/24 in. 2 silver pink June to well- Excellent cut flower or for summer border. 

FLEABANE 75/60 cm blue Aug. drained Pink Jewel is the prettiest variety. 

Eryngium species 24/12 in. 2 green blue June to well- Prickly flowers are good for cutting. 

SEA HOLLY 60/30 cm Aug. drained Drought tolerant of hot dry sites. 

Eupatorium maculatum 7/3 ft. » 4 purple purple Aug. to moist Large plant with purple flower heads. 

EUPATORIUM-Joe Pye Weed 2/1 m. Sept. soil Attracts butterflies. 

Euphorbia polychroma 18/18 in. 3 green yellow May to well- Dome of leaves covered by colored bracts. 

SPURGE-CUSHION 45/45 cm June drained Drought-tolerant for hot, dry location. 

Filipendula purpurea 48/24 in. » 4 green white Aug. to moist Fragrant flower clusters have red stamens. 

MEADOWSWEET-Japan 120/60 cm Sept. soil Elegant accent, specimen or waterside 

plant. 

Filipendula rubra ‘Venusta’ 6/4 ft. » 3 green pink Aug. to moist Large flowers on this bold accent plant. 

MEADOWSWEET 1.8/1.2 m Sept. soil Tall plumed perennial for the back of the 

border. 

Fragaria frel ‘Pink Panda’ 6/12 in. » 2 green bright May to well- Excellent ground cover or in a hanging 

STRAWBERRY-Pink Panda 15/30 cm pink Sept. drained basket. Cross of Fragaria and Potentilla has 

edible fruit. 

Gaillardia x grandiflora 36/12 in. 2 green red eye June to well- Daisy-like flowers with contrasting center 

GAILLARDIA-Blanket Flower 90/30 cm gold tip Sept. drained eye. ‘Goblin’ & ‘Burgundy’ are two cultivars. 

Gentiana septemfida 8/24 in. » 2 green true July to moist One of the easier gentians to grow. 

GENTIAN-SEVEN-LOBED 20/60 cm blue Sept. soil Plants clump & are good for edging. 

Gentiana acaulis 4/12 in. » 2 green true May moist Low growing creeping mat is good for 

GENTIAN-STEMLESS 10/30 cm blue soil rockery. Light blue flowers in springtime. 

Geranium sanguineum 18/18 in. » 3 green white June to well- Low spreading mound of finely cut leaves. 

GERANIUM-Blood Cranesbill 45/45 cm pink, red Aug. drained Useful ground cover available in a few 

colors. 

Geranium dalmaticum 4/6 in. » 3 green pink May to well- Alpine rock garden plant. 

GERANIUM-DALMATIAN 10/15 cm July drained Dense mounding foliage turns red in fall. 

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Geranium macrorrhizum 18/18 in. » 2 green pink June to well- Fragrant leaves form dense ground cover. 

GERANIUM-INGWERSEN 45/45 cm July drained Heat tolerant. Good fall foliage color. 

Geranium x Johnson Blue 24/24 in. » 2 green blue- June to well- Popular geranium with large bluish flowers. 

GERANIUM-Johnson Blue 60/60 cm violet Aug. drained Good vigorous border plant type. 

Geranium endressii 24/24 in. » 3 green pink- June to well- Good vigorous ground cover. 

GERANIUM-Wargrave Pink 60/60 cm salmon Aug. drained Shiny evergreen leaves. 

Geum x ‘Borisii’ 12/12 in. » 3 green orange May to well- Rare, bright orange flowers good for cutting. 

GEUM-DWARF AVENS 30/30 cm June drained Compact plant for edging or rockery. 

Goniolimon tataricum 16/12 in. 2 green light July to well- Grown for cut or everlasting dried flowers. 

STATICE-GERMAN 40/30 cm pink Aug. drained Foliage forms basal rosette of leaves. 

Gypsophila paniculata 36/24 in. » 2 green white June to well- Bristol Ferry is a suggested variety. 

BABY’S BREATH 90/60 cm pink July drained Delicate flowers for fresh or dried bouquets. 

Gypsophila repens 6/24 in. » 2 green white June to well- Low creeping mat for edging or rock 

BABY’S BREATH - Creeping 15/60 cm pink July drained gardens. Misty clouds of blooms. 

Helenium autumnale 48/24 in. 3 green yellow July to well- Bright daisy-like flowers excellent for cutting 

HELENIUM-SNEEZEWEED 120/60 cm red Aug. drained Moisture loving plant for the summer border. 

Heliopsis helianthoides 48/24 in. 2 green yellow July to well- Large, long blooming, daisy-like flowers. 

HELIOPSIS-False Sunflower 120/60 cm Sept. drained Strong sturdy stems are good for cutting. 

Helianthemum nummularium 12/24 in. 4 gray- various June to well- Available in single or double flowering 

ROCK or SUN ROSE 30/60 cm green Sept. drained forms. Good for edging and rockery. Mulch 

in winter. 

Hesperis matronalis 36/12 in. » 2 green purple June to well- Fragrant flowers resemble Summer Phlox. 

SWEET ROCKET 90/30 cm July drained Old-fashioned garden plant for the border. 

Hemerocallis x hybrida 36/24 in. » 2 green various July to well- Plants form sturdy clumps of grassy foliage. 

DAYLILY 90/60 cm Aug. drained Lily shaped flowers bloom in long 

succession. 

Hemerocalis var. 16/16 in. » 2 green canary June- well- Prolific repeat bloomer. 

DAYLILLY-HAPPY RETURNS 40/40 cm yellow Sept. drained Flowers have slight fragrance 

Hemerocallis ‘Stella D’Oro’ 18/18 in. » 2 green yellow June to well- Popular compact dwarf. 

DAYLILY-STELLA D’ORO 45/45 cm Sept. drained Longer blooming period. 

Heuchera hybrid 24/18 in. » 3 dark white June moist-well Leaves large and ruffled. 

CORAL BELLS-Chocolate ruffles 60/45 cm brown July drained Burgundy underneath 

Heuchera hybrid 18/12 in. » 2 green scarlet June moist-well Bred in Morden Manitoba. 

CORAL BELLS-Northern Fire 45/30 cm mottled red July drained Flowers high over low foliage. 

Heuchera hybrid 18/18 in. » 3 deep white June moist-well Leaves fade to bronze in Summer. 

CORAL BELLS-Palace Purple 45/45 cm purple July drained Plants vary from seed. 

Heuchera hybrid 18/12 in. » 3 white/ cerise June moist-well Very bright, ruffled leaves 

CORAL BELLS-SNOW STORM 45/30 cm green pink July drained 

Iberis sempervirens 10/36 in. » 3 green white May to well- Evergreen foliage forms compact ground 

IBERIS-CANDY TUFT 25/90 cm June drained cover. Good for rock gardens or front of 

border. 

Iris setosa 8/12 in. 2 green lavender May to well- Compact clump with narrow leaves. 

IRIS-ARCTIC 20/30 cm June drained Hardy species for edging border. 

Iris pumila 8/12 in. 2 green purple May to well- Old-fashioned favorite flower in showy 

IRIS-DWARF BEARDED 20/30 cm pink June drained display. Available in separate colors & 

yellow named varieties. Also varieties available as 

white bare root rhizome in the bulb department in 

August. 

Iris germanica 30/18 in. 3 green purple May to well- Old-fashioned favorite flower in showy 

IRIS-GERMAN BEARDED 75/45 cm pink June drained display. Available in separate colors & 

yellow named varieties. Also varieties available as 

bronze bare root rhizome in the bulb department in 

August.

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Iris ensata 48/18 in. » 4 green various June to moist Flowers appear on top of tall grassy clumps. 

IRIS-JAPANESE 120/45 cm July soil Suitable waterside plant. 

Iris sibirica 36/24 in. 2 green purple May to well- Clumps of grassy leaves look good all 

IRIS-SIBERIAN 90/60 cm white June drained summer. Delicate looking flowers for cutting. 

Iris pallida 24/12 in. 3 gold- lavender June to well- Grown for attractive striped foliage. 

IRIS-SWEET 60/30 cm green July drained Edging border plant. 

Iris pseudacorus 48/24 in. 2 green yellow May to moist Attractive at the waterside. 

IRIS-YELLOW FLAG 120/60 cm June soil Similar to blue flag Iris. 

Lamium maculatum 12/12 in. 2 green pink May to well- Attractive ground cover with variegated 

LAMIUM-DEAD NETTLE 30/30 cm white white Sept. drained foliage. 

silver 

Lathyrus latifolius 8/1 ft. 3 green pink- June to well- Native wildflower used as dried everlasting. 

PEA-SWEET-Perennial 240/30 cm purple Sept. drained Good fresh cut flower. 

Lavandula angustifolia 16/24 in. 4 gray pink June to well- Fragrant flower spikes & foliage. 

LAVENDER-MUNSTEAD 40/60 cm purple Aug. drained Suitable for the herb garden. 

Leontopodium alpinum 6/10 in. 3 gray white June to well- Well known rockery plant from Swiss alps. 

EDELWEISS 15/25 cm July drained Woolly flowers used for dried arrangements. 

Leucanthemum X superbum 24/18 in. » 3 green white June to well- Several cultivars available; not The Ox-eye 

SHASTA DAISY-’Alaska’ 60/45 cm Sept. drained Daisy. White Daisies with yellow centers 

good to cut. 

Lewisia cotyledon 12/6 in. » 3 green pink May to well- Unique alpine rockery plant requires 

LEWISIA 30/15 cm July drained drainage. Evergreen rosette of fleshy 

foliage. 

Liatrus spicata 36/18 in. 2 green white July to well- Popular as cut flower for tall long lasting 

LIATRUS-BLAZING STAR 90/45 cm purple Sept. drained spikes! Beautiful border plant. 

Lilium x hybrida 48/12 in. » 2 green wide June to well - Hardier & easier to grow than Oriental or 

LILY-ASIATIC 120/30 cm range July drained Tiger. Excellent long lasting cut flower. 

Lilium x hybrids 72/18 in. » 4 green pink, red Aug. to well- Late blooming, fragrant, star-shaped 

LILY-ORIENTAL 200/45 cm white Sept. drained flowers. Mulching recommended for winter 

protection. 

Lilium lancifolium 60/18 in. » 2 green orange June to well- Old-fashioned favorite perennial. 

LILY-TIGER 150/45 cm July drained Superb strong stemmed cut flower. 

Limonium latifolium 30/24 in. 2 green lavender June to well- Grown for cut or everlasting dried flowers. 

STATICE-Sea Lavender 75/60 cm Aug. drained Drought-tolerant perennial border plant. 

Linum perenne 18/12 in. » 2 green blue May to well- Linear leaves with continual blooms. 

FLAX-PERENNIAL 45/30 cm white Aug. drained Sapphire Blue or Diamond White. 

Lupinus x ‘Russell Hybrid’ 36/24 in. » 3 green purple June to well- Tall spikes of flowers are good for cutting. 

Lupinus x ‘Gallery Series’ 90/60 cm pink Aug. drained Old-fashioned favorite perennial. Dwarf 

LUPINE yellow series available in mix of various colors. 

Lysimachia clethroides 36/36 in. » 2 green white July to moist Unique flower spikes bend like a 

LOOSESTRIFE-Gooseneck 90/90 cm Aug. soil gooseneck. Foliage has good fall color. 

Lychnis species 15/12 in. 3 gray- pink May to well- Self-seeding alpine rockery plants. All 

CAMPION-Arctic, Moss, Rose 38/30 cm green Sept. drained arctic, moss & rose species need drainage. 

Lychnis chalcedonica 48/12 in. 2 green red June to well- Old fashioned, long-lived, hardy tall plant. 

MALTESE CROSS 120/30 cm Aug. drained Red flower clusters for cutting or in border. 

Lysimachia punctata 36/24 in. » 2 green yellow June to well- Upright bushy clumps form a large patch. 

LOOSESTRIFE-YELLOW 90/60 cm Aug. drained Star shaped flowers appear in leafy spikes. 

Macleaya cordata 6/2 ft. » 2 blue- cream July to moist Colorful lobed leaves with cream flower 

POPPY-PLUME 200/60 cm green Aug. soil plumes. Giant unique background plant. 

Malva moschata 36/18 in. » 3 green pink July to well- Satiny pink flowers like little Hollyhock. 

MALLOW-MUSK 90/45 cm Sept. drained Musky scented leaves for back of border. 

Monarda didyma 36/18 in. 3 green purple June to moist Tall plants with aromatic mint-like foliage. 

BEEBALM-BERGAMOT 90/45 cm pink, red July soil Thistle-flowers attract bees and butterflies. 

white Plants are good in border or for cutting. 

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Myosotis sylvatica 8/8 in. 3 green true blue May to moist Showy spring display by self seeding 

FORGET-ME-NOT-Garden 20/20 cm pink June soil biennial. Used as under-planting with spring 

bulbs. 

Oenothera missourensis 12/12 in. 3 green yellow June to well- Papery flowers open during daytime. 

Oenothera fruticosa 30/30 cm Aug. drained Drought tolerant of hot dry areas. 

SUNDROPS/EVENING PRIMROSE Fruticosa has red stems and buds. 

Paeonia hybrids 36/36 in. 2 green pink June well- Old-fashioned favorite with double flowers. 

PEONY-DOUBLE 90/90 cm red drained Use rings or hoops to support large flowers. 

white Longest lived & largest flowering perennial! 

Paeonia tenuifolia ‘Pena 18/12 in. 2 green red June well- Rare plant with finely cut leaves. 

PEONY-FERNLEAF’ 45/30 cm drained Delicate double flowers. 

Papaver alpinum 8/6 in. 3 green mixed May to well- Dainty poppies with lacy leaves for the 

POPPY-ALPINE 20/15 cm Aug. drained rockery. Yellow, orange, pink & white 

flowers shades. 

Meconopsis sp. 48/24 in. » 5 green blue July moist,well- Needs winter protection. 

POPPY-BLUE HIMALAYAN 120/60 cm drained,acid Prefers shelter from wind. 

Papaver nudicaule 18/12 in. 2 green mixed May to well- Papery yellow, orange, pink & white flowers! 

POPPY-ICELAND 45/30 cm Sept. drained Short lived plants but they reseed readily. 

Papaver orientale 36/24 in. 2 green pink, red May to well- Huge flowers and hairy foliage are showy. 

POPPY-ORIENTAL 90/60 cm orange July drained Excellent border perennial or cut flower! 

Penstemon hybrids 36/24 in. 4 green various May to well- Showy tubular flower spikes like snapdragon 

PENSTEMON-Beard-tongue 90/60 cm Aug. drained Taller varieties make good cut flowers. 

Persicaria affine 8/24 in. » 3 green red- June to well- Low mat of leathery leaves turn red in fall. 

FLEECEFLOWER-DWARF 20/60 cm pink Aug. drained Short spikes of flowers fade to pink. 

Physostegia virginiana 48/24 in. » 2 green pink July to moist Tubular flower spikes make great cut 

OBEDIENT PLANT 120/60 cm white Sept. soil flowers. Useful background plant. 

Platycodon grandiflorus 30/24 in. » 3 green purple June to well- Inflated buds pop into balloon-like flowers! 

BALLOON FLOWER 75/60 cm white Aug. drained Similar to Campanula (Bellflower) 

Phlox douglasii 5/18 in 2 green pink, red May well- Exotic woody shrub with spectacular 

Phlox subulata 12/45 cm white drained flowers. Excellent edging & rockery plant. 

PHLOX-Creeping or Moss lavender Crackerjack is a very popular variety. 

Phlox maculata 36/24 in. » 3 green pink June to moist & Evergreen ground cover with spring flowers. 

PHLOX-MEADOW 90/60 cm white Aug. drained Flowers are fragrant and good for cutting. 

Phlox paniculata 48/30 in. 3 green various July to moist & Showy clusters of spectacular flowers. 

PHLOX-Tall or Garden 120/75 cm Sept. drained Wide range of colors for the border. 

Excellent fragrant cut flowers. 

Potentilla neum ‘Nana’ 4/12 in. 3 green yellow May to well- Low non-spreading alpine rockery plant. 

POTENTILLA-ALPINE 10/30 cm June drained Buttercup flowers on compact mound. 

Potentilla nepalensis 12/12 in. 2 green red- June to well- Melon red flowers with darker pink centre. 

POTENTILLA-Miss Willmott 30/30 cm pink Sept. drained Shear plants back after first flush of flowers. 

Perovskia atriplicifolia 4/2 ft. 4 gray- blue- July to well- Long bloomers with Black-eyed Susan 

RUSSIAN SAGE 120/60 cm green violet Sept. drained flowers. Perennial Plant of the Year in 1995. 

Pulsatilla vulgaris 12/12 in. 2 green purple April well- Early bloomer with a prairie crocus type 

ANEMONE-Pasque Flower 30/30 cm red to May drained bloom. 

Rheum X hybridum 3/3 ft. » 2 green white May to well- Hardy perennial vegetable with large leaves. 

RHUBARB 1/1 m. Sept. drained Sour edible stalks for pies or wine. 

Rudbeckia fulgida goldsturm 36/18 in. 3 green yellow/ July to well- Long blooming flowers; Hirta hybrids 

BLACK-EYED SUSAN 90/45 cm orange Sept. drained self-seed. 

Rudbeckia nitida 6/3 ft. 2 green yellow July to well- Enormous plant suitable for back of border. 

RUDBECKIA-Gloriosa Daisy 200/90 cm Sept. drained Herbstonne has drooping daisies. 

Sagina subulata 2/12 in. » 4 green white May to moist & Creeping moss-like ground cover forms 

Sagina subulata ‘Aurea’ 5/30 cm gold June well- carpet. Good between paving stones. 

MOSS-IRISH & SCOTCH drained Tiny white, star-like flowers. Mulch in winter.

Names 

PerenniALS 




Height/ 

Spread Light 

Z 

o 

n e 

Leaf 

Color Flower 



Sun 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

Salvia nemerosa 24/24 in. 3 gray- pink June to well- Scented spikes of flowers. 

SALVIA-SAGE 60/60 cm green violet Aug. drained Drought tolerant. 

Salvia nemerosa ‘May Night’ 24/24 in. 3 gray- indigo- May to well- Perennial Plant of the Year 1997. 

SALVIA-MAY NIGHT 60/60 cm green violet July drained Aromatic leaves and spike-like flowers. 

Saponaria ocymoides 8/18 in. 2 green pink May to well- Most vigorous trailing rockery or edging 

SOAPWORT-ROCK 20/45 cm June drained plant. Useful for cascading over rocks and 

slopes. 

Saxifraga arendsii 8/12 in. » 4 green red, pink May to moist & Cup shaped flowers on short stems. 

SAXIFRAGE-MOSSY 20/30 cm white June drained Excellent evergreen rock garden plant. 

Saxifraga urbium 6/12 in. » 4 green light May to moist & Low growing alpine rockery plant. Short 

SAXIFRAGE-London Pride 15/30 cm pink June drained stems of small light pink flowers in spring. 

Scabiosa caucasia 30/18 in. 2 green white June to well- Ideal for edging along a shady border. 

PINCUSHION FLOWER-DWARF 75/45 cm Aug. drained Strong stems for long lasting cut flowers. 

Scabiosa columbaria 18/12 in. 3 green lavender June to well- Large globe shaped continuous flowers. 

PINCUSHION FLOWER 45/30 cm blue Aug. drained Perennial of the Year 2000. 

Sedum x species 6/18 in. 3 green various June to well- Fleshy succulent plants with various colors. 

SEDUM-Dwarf Stonecrop 15/45 cm purple yellow Aug. drained Spreading, drought tolerant ground covers. 

Sedum spectabile 24/24 in. 3 green pink Aug. to well- Succulent plants with upright growth habit. 

SEDUM-Tall Stonecrop 60/60 cm Sept. drained Autumn Joy and Brilliant provide pink fall 

color. 

Sedum spurium 6/18 in. 3 green various June to well- Succulent evergreen ground cover. 

SEDUM-Dragon’s Blood 15/45 cm red Aug. drained Various colored flowers and foliage. 

Sempervivum x Hybrids 6/12 in. » 2 green pink June to well- Succulents with evergreen rosettes of 

HENS AND CHICKS 15/30 cm purple red Aug. drained leaves. Useful for edging & rock gardens. 

gray Star shaped flowers rise up on stalks. 

Sidalcea malviflora x cultorum 36/18 in. » 4 green pink June to well- Elegant long spikes of satiny flowers for 

MALLOW-Prairie/Checker 90/45 cm Aug. drained cutting. Party Girl is a mixture of various 

pink shades. 

Solidago species 36/12 in. » 2 green gold- Aug. well- Cultivated native wild flower. 

GOLDENROD 90/30 cm yellow drained Golden-yellow flower plumes. 

Stachys byzantina 18/12 in. » 3 silver pink June well- Spreading mat of silver woolly leaves. 

LAMB’S EAR 45/30 cm drained Drought tolerant edging plant or ground 

cover. 

Tanacetum coccineum 30/18 in. 2 green rose- June to well- Old-fashioned cut flower with ferny foliage. 

PAINTED DAISY/Pyrethrum 75/45 cm pink July drained Deadhead regularly to increase flowering. 

Thalictrum aquilegifolium 36/24 in. » 3 green mauve May to moist Cut leaves closely resemble Columbine. 

MEADOW RUE 90/60 cm white June soil Fluffy flower sprays are used for cutting. 

Thalictrum delavayi 60/24 in. » 3 green purple June to moist Airy sprays of double flowers & lacy foliage. 

MEADOW RUE-Double 150/60 cm Aug. soil Tall background plant for cutting. 

Thymus x citriodorus 6/12 in. 3 gold red June to well- Aromatic, excellent edging or rockery plants 

Thymus praecox 15/30 cm silver lavender July drained Lemon thyme has lemon scented leaves. 

Thymus pseudolanuginosus green white Creeping thyme is a good ground cover. 

Thymus serpyllum gray pink Woolly thyme forms a vigorous mat. 

THYMUS-THYME green purple Mother-of-thyme is a much loved carpeter. 

Tradescantia X andersoniana 24/24 in. » 3 green various June to moist Grassy foliage with showy triangular 

SPIDERWORT 60/60 cm Aug. soil flowers.Plant in diagonal drifts in the border. 

Verbascum phoeniceum 48/12 in. 4 silver mixed June to well- Unique daisy flowers with red on the back. 

MULLEIN-PURPLE 120/30 cm Aug. drained Suitable for grouping in the border. 

Veronica allioni 6/12 in. » 2 green blue- June to well- Attractive compact flower spikes. 

VERONICA-Alpine 15/30 cm violet Aug. drained Excellent edging or alpine rockery plant. 

Veronica repens 2/12 in. » 2 gray- white May to well- Low creeping carpet with spring flowers. 

VERONICA-CREEPING 5/30 cm green June drained Good ground cover or rock garden plant. 

Veronica spicata 24/12 in. 2 green blue June to well- Border plant with long-lasting flower spikes. 

VERONICA-Spike Speedwell 60/30 cm pink Aug. drained Red Fox is good for cut flowers. 

PerenniALS

PerenniALS 

PerenniALS SHADe & PArt SUn 

Names 

Height/ 

Spread Light 

Z 

o 

n e 

Leaf 

Color Flower 



Veronica spicata incana 18/18 in. 2 silver blue- June to well- Silver woolly foliage with flower spikes. 

VERONICA-WOOLLY 45/45 cm violet July drained Excellent for edging or mass planting in 

border. 

Veronica ‘Sunny Border Blue’ 24/12 in. 3 green blue June to well- 1993 Perennial Plant of the Year. 

VERONICA-Sun. Border Blue 60/30 cm Sept. drained Long blooming spikes for cut flowers. 

Yucca glauca 24/18 in. 3 green white July well- Succulent, evergreen, narrow, stiff leaves. 

YUCCA 60/45 cm drained Native. Extremely drought tolerant in hot, 

dry, sun area. 

PerenniALS GrASSeS 

Names 

Height/ 

Spread Light 

Z 

o 

n e 

Leaf 

Color Flower 



Sun 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

Sun 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

Arrhenatherum bulbosum 18/12 in. » 3 cream tan June well- Clumps of cream & green striped leaves. 

‘Variegatus’ 45/30 cm green drained Combines well with bulbs in spring. 

GRASS-BULBOUS OAT Variegated form is a colorful variety. 

Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’ 42/24 in. » 3 white gold June to well- Foliage is boldly striped in white and green. 

GRASS - KARL FOERSTER 100/60 cm green Sept. drained Perennial Plant of the Year 2001 

Festuca glauca 12/12 in. » 3 blue tan May to well- Clump forming with fine textured leaves. 

GRASS-BLUE FESCUE 30/30 cm June drained Elijah Blue is the best & brightest selection. 

Helictotrichon sempervirens 36/24 in. 3 blue tan May to well- Round clump of intense blue leaves. 

GRASS-BLUE OAT 90/60 cm July drained Evergreen cool-season grass. 

Panicum virgatum 36/24 in. 3 green white July to well- Airy flowers turn into red seed heads. 

GRASS-RED SWITCH 90/60 cm Aug. drained Outstanding orange fall foliage color. 

Phalaris arundinacea 36/24 in. 2 white tan June to moist & Spreading clumps striped with various 

GRASS-RIBBON 90/60 cm green July drained colors. Useful, hardy ground cover.

PerenniALS CLemAtiS PHotoS 

Warsaw Nike Edvard Andre 

Alpine Odorata Nelly Moser 

Rouge Cardinal 

Jackmanii 

Tangutica Ville de Lyon 

Romantika 

Zoin 

PerenniALS

PerenniALS 

0 

PerenniALS VineS 

Names Height Spread Light Zone Pruning Flower Features 

Group Color 

Celastrus scandens 7 ft. 3 ft. » 4 n/a White Produces red seed capsules in fall if both male 

AMERICAN BITTERSWEET 2 m. 1 m. (Hercules)and female(Diana) plants are planted. 

Clematis alpina 'Odorata' 7ft 3ft » 3 A Blue Mid to light blue, scented flowers 

CLEMATIS - Odorata 2m 1m Flowers early in year; attractive seed heads 

Clematis Inspiration 'Zoin' 7 ft 3ft » 3 C Dark Blue Dark blue variety of 'Inspiration' 

CLEMATIS - Zoin 2m 1m Blooms later in season; good for cut flowers 

Clematis integrifolia 'Blueboy' 7 ft. 3 ft. » 3 C Blue Steel blue, nodding flowers in summer. 

CLEMATIS - Blueboy 2 m. 1 m. Clematis cross bred in Morden, Manitoba. 

Clematis 'Jackmanii' 10 ft. 3 ft. » 3 C Purple Purple flowers in summer on current, new wood. 

CLEMATIS - Jackman 3 m. 1 m. Popular cultivar. Prune to ground level in spring. 

Clematis jackmanii 'Romantika' 9 ft 3ft » 3 C Dark Blue New variety from the Soviet Union 

CLEMATIS - Romatika 3m 1m Light foliage compliments dark blooms 

Sun 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

Clematis macropetala 'Bluebird' 10 ft. 3 ft. » 3 A Blue Lavender blue flowers in May on one yr. old wood. 

CLEMATIS - Bluebird 3 m. 1 m. Big petal Clematis bred for Canadian Prairies. 

Clematis 'Rouge Cardinal' 10 ft. 3 ft. » 3 C Red Cardinal crimson flowers in summer on new 

CLEMATIS - Rouge Cardinal 3 m. 1 m. wood. 

Clematis tangutica 10 ft. 3 ft. » 2 C Golden Golden yellow, nodding flowers on new wood. 

CLEMATIS - Golden 3 m. 1 m. Yellow Tough, vigorous plant with fluffy seed heads. 

Clematis 'Ville de Lyon' 10 ft. 3 ft. » 3 C Red Carmine red flowers in summer on current wood. 

CLEMATIS - Ville de Lyon 3 m. 1 m. 

Clematis viticella 10 ft. 3 ft. » 3 C Purple Deep purple flowers in summer on new wood. 

CLEMATIS - Etoile Violette 3 m. 1 m. 

Humulus lupulus 7 ft. 7 ft. » 2 n/a Green Fast growing, hardy vine grown for making beer. 

HOPS 2 m. 2 m. Useful screening plant that requires support. 

Lonicera x ‘Dropmore Scarlet’ 10 ft. 3 ft. » 2 n/a Red Scarlet tubular flowers attract hummingbirds. 

HONEYSUCKLE- 3 m. 1 m. Best summer flowering, woody vine for Alberta. 

Dropmore Scarlet Rresistant to Honeysuckle aphid. 

Lonicera x brownii 'Mandarin' 20 ft. 7 ft. » 2 n/a Orange Orange tubular flowers attract hummingbirds. 

HONEYSUCKLE - Mandarin 6 m. 2 m. Resistant to honeysuckle aphids. 

Parthenocissus ‘Englemanii’ 20 ft. 3 ft. » 3 n/a White Self-clinging variety that does not need support. 

ENGLEMAN IVY 6 m. 1 m. Attractive green leaves turn to brilliant red in fall. 

Parthenocissus quinquefolia 20 ft. 3 ft. » 2 n/a White Requires trellis, fence or other support structure. 

VIRGINIA CREEPER 6 m. 1 m. Attractive green leaves turn to brilliant red in fall. 

Vitis x ‘Canadice’ 7 ft. 3 ft. » 4 n/a White Early red, seedless berries for juice, jelly or wine. 

GRAPE - Canadice 2 m. 1 m. Self pollinating but 2 varieties produce more fruit. 

Vitis x ‘Concord’ 7 ft. 3 ft. » 4 n/a White Blue berries used primarily for fresh grape juice. 

GRAPE - Concord 2 m. 1 m. Most popular widely grown grape in north america. 

Vitis x ‘Interlaken’ 7 ft. 3 ft. » 4 n/a White Golden green, early ripening, seedless berries. 

GRAPE - Interlaken 2 m. 1 m. Cross of Thompson Seedless for white wine. 

Vitis x ‘Steuben’ 7 ft. 3 ft. » 4 n/a White Purplish-blue berries used for juice or jelly. 

GRAPE - Steuben 2 m. 1 m. Good for table grape or making red wine. 

Vitis x 'Valiant' 7 ft. 3 ft. » 3 n/a White Early blue berries on a vigorous annual producer. 

GRAPE - Valiant 2 m. 1 m. Hardier grape for the Prairies; used for jelly. 

Group A 

Flowers in spring on woody stems produced the previous season. Prune out weak or dead stems just after blooming is 

finished, usually in June. Choose hardy cultivars of Clematis alpina & Clematis macropetala. 

Group B 

Clematis in the B1 pruning group are generally not hardy in zone 3. For group B2, most blooming usually occurs on 

new growth. Use pruning method for Group C. 

Group C 

Blooms on current season’s growth. Many hardy varieties are available. Prune back in spring to about 1 ft. (30cm). 

Leave 2 strong sets of buds per stem. This produces more flowers along the full length of the plant. Prune out weak or 

dead stems when you see them.

PerenniALS PLAntinG A CLemAtiS 

PerenniALS 1

HoUSePLAntS yoUr qUeStionS 

Q: Which houseplants should I choose for a hot, sunny 

area in my house? 

A: Direct sunlight can cause damage to many house 

plants. Choose thick-leaved plants such as jade plants, 

aloe vera, and a wide variety of cacti all of which tolerate 

sun. 

Q: Which houseplants should I choose for an area 

with low light? 

A: Low light is referred as an area that receives little or no 

sunlight, such as north facing windows. Many plants such 

as peace lily and chinese evergreen will do well. 

Q: How do I get my hibiscus to re-flower? 

A: From spring to fall provide direct sunlight and feed with 

a fertilizer such as 15-30-15. 

Q: When and how should I repot my houseplants? 

A: Spring is the best time to repot as plants are starting 

to grow. Choose a container up to 1 in. (5 cm) in diameter 

larger (with drainage holes). Use a good all purpose 

potting soil. 

Q: Small black flies appear to be around my plants. 

What are they? How should I treat them? 

A: The fungus gnat larvae begins its life in the top layer of 

soil, feeding on dead organic matter, and then develop into 

a small black fly. Gnats prefer moist conditions, so keeping 

soil on the dry side is a good preventive messure. If this 

does not work apply predatory mites (Hypoapsis Mites 

- more info in the Pests and Problems section) to your 

plants. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label. 

Q: What fertilizer should I use for my plants? 

A: An all-purpose fertilizer such as 20-20-20 or 15-30- 

15 is appropriate for all indoor plants. The best time to 

fertilize is during the active growing season which is spring 

through fall. 

Q: Which plants “clean the air”? 

A: Not only do plants create atmosphere in our homes, 

they also help purify the air. Some plants that are proven to 

be effective are: spider plant, pot mum, peace lily, dragon 

tree and gerbera daisy. 

Q: Can I take cuttings from my plants? 

A: There are several ways to start new plants from your 

existing ones. Taking cuttings, root division and air layering 

can all be tried depending on the type of plant. 

Q: How often should I water my plants? What are the 

best ways to water my plants? 

A: Many factors influence the water needs of plants, 

including light, temperature, size of pot and type of 

plant. Make sure to know your plants’ needs and water 

thoroughly then allow the soil to become as dry as that 

type of plant can tolerate. 

Q: What are the common pests I should watch for on 

my plants? 

A: Some common indoor pests include spider mite, aphids, 

scale and whitefly which are generally located on leaves 

and stems. A thorough inspection when watering your 

plants will keep problems to a minimum. 

Q: Which common tropicals are poisonous? 

A: The main poisonous houseplants are anthurium, 

cyclamen tubers, dieffenbachia, english ivy, hydrangea, 

mistletoe, and oleander among others. For further 

information check the Canadian poisonous plants 

information system website at: 

(http://sis.Agr.Gc.Ca/pls/pp/poison?P_x=px) 

Or call the 24 hour Calgary emergency poison control 

hotline at 670-1414. 

HoUSePLAntS

HoUSePLAntS 

HoUSePLAntS LiGHt 

Lighting is a crucial consideration in the choice of plant 

material for either indoor or outdoor locations. Adequate 

light is required for photosynthesis. Flowering plants 

that need a high light level to flower such as outdoor 

roses or peonies; or indoor hibiscus or oleander, won't 

flower in low light conditions. Plants that prefer partial 

shade such as bleeding heart, cedar, and cranberry will 

not perform as well in full sunlight. 

Aspects of Light: 

1. Intensity - brightness or level of light 

2. Duration - day length or photoperiod 

3. Quality - color of light 

Light Intensity: 

Light intensity, the brightness or light level, is accurately 

measured with a light meter. The units of measurement 

are either foot-candles (British system) or lux (metric 

system). Light intensity is the limiting factor in growing 

plants indoors. Plants with variegated or colored leaves 

generally need more light because photosynthesis does 

not occur in these leaf surface areas. Artificial light may 

provide the necessary additional light for these plants. 

Light Duration: 

Light duration, the length of daylight or photoperiod, 

affects the flowering capability of certain plants. There 

are three types of plants according to their flowering 

response to day length: Short Day, Long Day and Indeterminate. 

Short Day Plants: 

These indoor plants require less than twelve hours of 

light per day in order to initiate flower buds. If inadvertently 

given more light the flower buds will not develop. 

They all flower in the winter months around Christmas 

time. 

Christmas Cactus 

Chrysanthemum 

Kalanchoe 

Poinsettia 

Light Quality: 

Light quality refers to the color of light. White light, 

which is actually a combination of all of the colors, is 

best for plants. Red light is important for photosynthesis 

and photoperiodism. Plants absorb red light and reflect 

green light which is why most plants have a green leaf 

color. 

Orientation Toward Sunlight: 

Orientation toward south or west sunlight either inside 

or outdoors provides high light or full sunlight conditions. 

Conversely, plants situated in east or north 

windows or on the east or north side of a house receive 

lower levels of sunlight. The angle of sunlight during different 

seasons of the year is also a consideration for the 

light requirement of plants. 

High Light Houseplants: 

These house plants require high light levels. They prefer 

the bright direct sunlight of south or west windows. 

Aloe, Agave, etc. - succulents 

Cereus, Euphorbia, etc. - cacti 

Citrus - calamondin orange, etc. 

Codiaeum - croton 

Crassula - jade plant 

Hibiscus - rose of China 

Hoya - wax plant 

Kalanchoe - flaming Katy 

Nerium - oleander 

Yucca - spineless yucca 

Low Light Houseplants: 

Certain house plants, usually ones with larger leaves to 

trap more light, tolerate lower light levels than others. 

They may be situated in a north or east window and 

include: 

Aglaonema - Chinese evergreen 

Aspidistra - cast iron plant 

Homalomena - emerald gem 

Monstera - split-leaf philodendron 

Philodendron - heartleaf, selloum or Xanadu 

Sansevieria - snake plant 

Spathiphyllum - peace lily 

Houseplants for Children: 

These indoor house plants offer unique or interesting 

features or characteristics to children: 

Chlorophytum - spider plant - has hanging plantlets 

Kalanchoe tomentosa - panda plant - has fuzzy leaves

HoUSePLAntS StAnDinG 

all houseplants listed subject to 


NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE 

AIR PLANT Bright filtered sunlight Mist frequently to Colored, long lived Plant absorbs moisture from air! 

Tillandsia species increase humidity. flowers. Rosette of Epiphytic bromeliad in wild grows on 

narrow leaves. trees. 

ALOE-MEDICINE Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Narrow fleshy, Medicinally used to treat burns. 

Aloe vera thoroughly before watering. succulent leaves. Useful plant to have in your home. 

ARALIA-BALFOUR Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Variegated round leaves. Foliage plant. 

Polyscias balfouriana slightly before watering. Extra humidity is beneficial. 

ARALIA-FALSE Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Compound leaves with Delicate elegant slender foliage. 

Dizygotheca elegantissima slightly before watering. dark slender leaflets. 

Unique leaf shape & color. 

ARALIA-JAPANESE Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil moist in summer. Compound glossy Prefers cool well ventilated area in 

Fatsia japonica Reduce watering in winter. lobed leaflets. winter. Keep leaves free of dust. 

ARALIA-MING Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Named after Ming dynasty in China. 

Polyscias fruticosa elegans slightly before watering. Delicate elegant foliage Extra humidity is beneficial. 

ARALIA-PARSLEY Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Delicate, dark Shrub with aromatic, lacy leaves. 

Polyscias fruticosa 'Parsley' slightly before watering. green leaves. Extra humidity is beneficial. 

BEGONIA-REX Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Decorative leaves. Colorful foliage plant. 

Begonia rex before watering. Keep Many interesting varieties. 

leaves dry. 

BIRD OF PARADISE Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Orange & blue bird-like Flowers after plants are 7 years old. 

Strelitzia reginae before watering. flower occurs in spring! Prefers to be root-bound. 

Reduce watering in winter. Lg. leaves on long stalk. Keep cooler in winter. 

BONSAI According to species Frequent watering. Foliage pruned to form. Outdoor varieties require cold 

Buxus, Ficus, etc. Stunted growth because treatment. Tropicals are easier to 

of restricted rooting. care for. Examples are fig, boxwood 

& natal plum. 

BOUGAINVILLEA Direct sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Colored bracts on Excellent climber for direct sunlight 

Bougainvillea buttiana before watering. Reduce in paperyflowers. locations. Woody, climbing shrub. 

the winter. Climbing leaves. 

BROMELIADS Bright filtered sunlight Keep cup-like reservoir Colorful flowers and Prefer warm temperatures & high 

Aechmea, Neoregalia filled with water. bracts.Various humidity. To propagate remove and 

Stemless rosette of leaves. variegated leaves. plant offsets. 

Aloe vera Japanese Aralia 

Bougainvillea 

HoUSePLAntS 

Bird of Paradise

HoUSePLAntS 

6 

HoUSePLAntS StAnDinG 




BUNYA BUNYA Bright indirect sunlight Moderately dry Sharp pointed needles. Unique, coniferous evergreen tree. 

Araucaria bidwillii between waterings Shiny foliage. 

CACTI Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Various colored flowers. Spines are actually modified leaves. 

Cereus, Euphorbia, etc. thoroughly before watering. Peruvian tree cactus and milk tree. 

Reduce watering in winter. Well-drained, sandy soil. 

CALADIUM Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist Heart-shaped, paper-thin Grown from tubers. 

Caladium x hortulanum in summer. leaves ornamented Foliage dies down in fall and goes 

Stop watering in fall. with various colors. dormant. Commonly called elephant ears 

CALATHEA Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Ornate leaves. Intricately patterned, colorful foliage. 

Calathea makoyana Benefits from extra humidity. Similar looking & culture as Prayer Plant. 

CAST IRON PLANT Medium to low light Allow soil surface to dry out Tough-as-nails plant for low light and 

Aspidistra elatior thoroughly before watering. Lance-shaped leaves. temp. Requires least care of house 

Reduce watering in winter. plants. Keep leaves free of dust. 

Avoid wet feet. 

CHINA DOLL Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Compound leaves with This plant is as pretty as a China doll. 

Radermachera sinica glossy leaflets. Delicate exquisite foliage. 

CHINESE EVERGREEN Medium to low light Allow soil surface to dry out Lance- shaped leaves Several varieties including Silver 

Aglaonema commutatum before watering. with many variegations Queen. Easy to grow; for home or office. 

CITRUS Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Fragrant white flowers. No fertilizer in winter; allow to dry out 

Citrus species before watering. Glossy green leaves. in winter. Prefers cooler night & winter 

temperatures. 

CROTON Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Various leaf colors Variegated leaves provide indoor 

Codiaeum variegatum Extra humidity is beneficial. and shapes contrast. Keep leaves clean of dust. 

DUMB CANE Medium sunlight Allow soil to dry out Variegated oblong Decorative foliage plant. 

Dieffenbachia species before watering. leaves. Low maintenance plant tolerates low light 

DRACAENA Medium sunlight Allow soil to dry out Green or striped, Janet Craig/warnecki/corn cane/ 

Dracaena species before watering. lance-shaped leaves. marginata. Accent plants used for 

interior landscapes. 

FERNS Filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Various shaped fronds! Shade tolerant, moisture loving plants. 

Asplenium, Pellaea, etc. 

Calathea Croton 

China Doll 

Fern 

Chinese Evergreen 

Caladium

HoUSePLAntSStAnDinG all houseplants listed subject to 



FIG-WEEPING Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Wavy oval leaves. Graceful weeping tree. Favorite 

Ficus benjamina foliage plant for interior landscapers. 

FLAMINGO FLOWER Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Red or pink spathes. Long-lasting cut flower of Hawaii. 

Anthurium species Extra humidity is beneficial. Ovate leathery leaves. 

HOMALOMENA Low to med. sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Heart-shaped leaves. Similar to Philodendron. 

Homalomena species thoroughly before watering. Em gem cultivar is available. 

JADE PLANT Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Delicate white flowers. Popular succulent with jade green 

Crassula argentea thoroughly before watering. Succulent leaves. leaves. Jades like to be pot-bound. 

JASMINE Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. White fragrant flowers. Several climbing varieties available. 

Jasminum species Extra humidity is beneficial. Small leaflets. Use on trellis or as a hanging plant. 

KAFFIR LILY Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist Orange funnel-like Prefers to be root bound. 

Clivia miniata during spring & summer. flowers. Long narrow, Needs 2 months cool dry, winter rest 

glossy leaves. period. 

MONEY TREE Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil to dry out Elongated leaves. 5 leaves symbolize 5 elements of Feng 

Pachira moderatly before watering. 5 per stem. shui. 

PALMS Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Feathery fronds. Graceful exotic, tropical foliage plants. 

Chamaedorea, Phoenix, Extra humidity is beneficial. areca, bamboo, date, fan, kentia, & lady. 

Chamaerops, Rhapis, etc. Require good drainage. Many varieties with several leaf shapes. 

PALM-PONYTAIL Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Arching narrow leaves. Swollen stem base stores water. 

Beaucarnea recurvata thoroughly before watering. Not a true palm; actually a succulent. 

PASSION FLOWER Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Intricate flowers. Unusual flowers. 

Passiflora species Extra humidity is beneficial. Lobed leaves. Beautiful exotic varieties. 

PEACE LILY Med to low sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. White spathe on long Easiest flowering plant for low light 

Spathiphyllum 'Mauna Loa' stem. Lance-shaped area. Interior landscape plant. Called 

leaves. white flag. 

PEPEROMIA Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Round fleshy leaves. Several species are semi-succulent such 

Peperomia species out thoroughly before as watermelon, emerald ripple, pepper 

watering. face. 

PHILODENDRON Low to med sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Heart-shaped, Many varieties including Selloum and 

Philodendron species out before watering. large leaves. Xanadu. Easy to grow plants that 

tolerate low light. 

PHILODENDRON-SPLIT Low to med sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Large perforated, Plant sends out aerial roots. 

Monstera deliciosa LEAF out before watering. split leaves. 

Weeping Fig Jade Plant 

Money Tree 

HoUSePLAntS 

Peace Lily 

Homalomena

HoUSePLAntS 

HoUSePLAntS 

StAnDinG 




PINE-BUDDHIST Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Large linear leaves. Coniferous evergreen tree. 

Podocarpus macrophyllus Requires staking and cool winter temp. 

PINE-FERN Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Linear leaves. Graceful coniferous evergreen tree. 

Podocarpus gracilior Drooping foliage. 

PINE-NORFOLK ISLANDBright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly Soft needles. Coniferous evergreen with tiered 

Araucaria excelsa branches. Can be decorated as indoor 

Christmas tree. 

POLKA DOT PLANT Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Lavender flowers. Adds a splash of color to the home or 

Hypoestes phyllostachya Pink spots on leaves. office. Prune to retain bushiness. 

RUBBER PLANT Medium sunlight Allow soil to dry out Thick oval leaves. Old-fashioned, sturdy house plant. 

Ficus elastica before watering. Good drainage. Keep leaves clean. 

SCHEFFLERA Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Compound leaves. Popular foliage plant for interior 

Schefflera actinophylla out before watering. landscapes. Two species are umbrella 

Schefflera arboricola tree and Hawaiian. Small tree or large 

shrub for home or office. 

SENSITIVE PLANT Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Compound lacy leaflets. Unique feature of folding leaves if 

Mimosa pudica touched. Popular plant with kids to show 

plants move. 

SNAKE PLANT Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Erect, lance-shaped, One of the hardiest of all indoor plants. 

Sansevieria trifasciata Tolerates mid-low light. thoroughly before watering. variegated rosette Semi-succulent plants such as bird's 

Sansevieria zeylanica Provide good drainage. of leaves. nest. Easy to care for, popular plants. 

SUCCULENTS Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Various colored flowers. Various species of varying forms and 

Agave, Aloe, thoroughly before watering. Fleshy succulent leaves. hangers. Needs cool dry, dormancy 

Haworthia, etc. Provide good drainage. period in winter. Needs well-drained 

sandy soil. Easy to grow. 

TI PLANT Medium sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Variegated, Hawaiian or Polynesian plant. 

Cordyline terminalis out before watering. lance-shaped leaves. Similar culture to Dracaena. 

VENUS FLY TRAP Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Rosette of leaves. Novelty carnivorous plant feeds on 

Dionaea muscipula Extra humidity is required. insects. 'Mouths' do not reopen once 

closed. 

YUCCA Bright direct sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Lance-shaped leaves. Durable plant tolerates adverse 

Yucca elephantipes out thoroughly before conditions. Evergreen accent or 

watering. specimen shrub. 

Snake Plant Rubber Plant 

Schefflera 

Ti Plant 

Norfolk Island Pine 

Venus Fly Trap

HoUSePLAntS 

fLoWerinG 




AFRICAN VIOLET Bright filtered sunlight Allow to partially dry. Available in many colors, Fertilize with African Violet fertilizer 

Saintpaulia ionantha Do not get leaves wet. continuous blooming. or one with a higher middle number. 

Popular, reliable flowering houseplant. 

AZALEA Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Pink, red or white, Woody shrub with oval leaves. 

Rhododendron species continual flowers. Prefers cool, humid area & acidic soil. 

BEGONIA-REIGER Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to Yellow, pink, orange, Avoid getting water on leaves. 

Begonia hiemalis dry before watering. salmon, white and red. Pinch to keep shape. 

CHENILLE PLANT Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Long red, fuzzy, Avoid draft or sudden temp. change. 

Acalypha hispida fabric-like tassels. Unique colorful fuzzy blossoms. 

CINERARIA Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Daisy-like flowers with Winter blooming, short day plant. 

Senecio cruentes various colored petal tips. Triangular toothed leaves. 

CYCLAMEN Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Purple, pink, red, or white Winter blooming and can be reforced. 

Cyclamen persicum stunning flowers. Gorgeous plant for gift giving. 

FLOWERING MAPLE Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Red, pink, yellow or white. Evergreen woody shrub. 

Abutilon hybridum Maple-like leaves. Also called 'Chinese Lantern'. 

GARDENIA Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Fragrant white semi- Glossy ovate leaves. 

Gardenia jasminoides Needs extra humidity. double or double flowers. Needs cool nights: 60-65 F (15-18 C) 

GERBERA DAISY Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to White, red, yellow, Spectacular blooms in vivid colors. 

Gerbera jamesonii dry before watering. orange, or hot pink Likes outdoor cool temp. in summer. 

daisies on long stems. Also known as 'Transvaal Daisy'. 

GLOXINIA Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Velvety blooms in purple, Dry rest period for 3 mo., then repot. 

Sinningia speciosa Do not get leaves wet. white, pink, or red. Old-fashioned favorite. 

HIBISCUS Bright direct sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Large red, pink, white, Woody shrub with toothed leaves. 

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Likes extra humidity. yellow or orange Spectacular continuous blooms. 

ephemeral flowers. Fertilizer with high last numbers. 

HYDRANGEA Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Large pink or blue Flower color is determined by 

Hydrangea macrophylla flower clusters. alkalinity or acidity of soil. 

KALANCHOE Bright direct sunlight Allow soil surface to Clusters of long-lasting Succulent plant with fleshy leaves. 

Kalanchoe blossfeldiana dry before watering. red or pink flowers. Xmas flower plant called 'Flaming 

Katy'. 

LILY, CALLA Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Pure white spathes. Attractive leaves. 

Zantedeschia aethiopica Needs extra humidity. Requires dry rest period. 

LILY, KAFFIR Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Orange, trumpet-shaped. Requires cool, dry, winter rest period. 

Clivia miniata Reduce water in fall. Strap-shaped leaves. Fabulous flowering plant. 

Hydrangea Kalanchoe 

Hibiscus 

Gardenia 

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African Violet 

Cyclamen

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100 

HoUSePLAntSfLoWerinG all houseplants listed subject to 



MUM, POT Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Various colored daisies in Florists' mums are long-lived blooms. 

Chrysanthemum morifolium forms such as pompom. Popular gift plant for moms! 

ORCHIDS: Bright filtered sunlight Allow potting media to Various colors of Keep away from heat registers. 

Epiphytic & Terrestrial dry before watering. exquisite flowers. Care & culture depends on variety. 

Phalaenopsis, etc. Needs extra humidity. Moth orchid is the easiest to bloom. 

See our Orchid page for more info. 

PERSIAN VIOLET Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Purple or white Native to Persia. Avoid drafts. 

Exacum affine fragrant flowers. 

POINSETTIA Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to Colorful bracts in Traditional Xmas plant. 

Euphorbia pulcherrima dry before watering. red, pink, or white. Group together as a show piece. 

Adds a festive touch to any decor. 

See our Chrismas section of the 

guide for information on reblooming. 

PRIMROSES Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Clusters of bright, fragrant Primroses are a prelude to spring. 

Primula species flowers in pink, purple, Available species are Fairy, German, 

red, white & yellow. Chinese & polyanthus. 

PRIMROSE-CAPE Bright filtered sunlight Allow soil surface to Purple, pink or white Same family as African Violet. 

Streptocarpus species dry between waterings tubular flowers. Fertilize for long-lived blossoms. 

ROSE, Miniature Bright direct sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Mini fragrant flowers. Great gift for loved ones! 

Rosa chinensis Likes extra humidity. Available in various colors. Remove spent flowers for reblooming. 

We guarantee 

to provide our 

customers 

with plant 

material of 

excellent quality. 

All indoor, standing and 

hanging house plants 

are guaranteed for thirty 

(30) days. 

You will receive a credit 

towards a replacement 

plant. 

HoUSe PLAnt GUArAntee 

S e a s o n a l f l o w e r i n g 

house plants are not 

guaranteed because of 

their perishable nature. 

Bonsai plants and orchids 

are also not guaranteed. 

Store Phone Numbers: 

Calgary: 274-4286 

Medicine Hat: 526-2378

HoUSePLAntSHAnGinG all houseplants listed subject to 



ARROWHEAD VINE Bright filtered sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Arrow-shaped, Easy to grow hanging houseplant. 

Syngonium podophyllum out before watering. variegated leaves. Suitable for lower light area. 

BABY’S TEARS Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Tear-sized, Creeping ground cover with trailing 

Soleirolia soleirolii Extra humidity is required. tiny round leaves. stems. Great for gound cover in 

terrarium or hanger. 

BURRO’S TAIL Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Fleshy succulent Hanging leaves look like donkey tail. 

Sedum morganianum before watering. leaves. Withstands low humidity of houses. 

BRIDAL VEIL Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Small white flowers. Trailing plant. 

Gibasis geniculata Delicate foliage and flowers. 

CREEPING CHARLIE Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Circular crinkled leaves. Creeping ground cover plant. 

Pilea nummulariifolia Easily propagated by stem/leaf cuttings. 

FERNS Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Distinctive, dissected, Suitable for hanging basket or plant 

Nephrolepis, Adiantum Extra humidity is required. delicate, lacy fronds. stand. Includes traditional Boston and 

unique staghorn. 

FIG-CREEPING Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Heart-shaped, Self-clinging, climbing or hanging plant. 

Ficus pumila small leaves. Suitable for use as a ground cover or on 

pole. 

GLORY BOWER Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. White sepals and red Tall twining shrub with trailing stems. 

Clerodendron thompsonae petals. Ovate leaves. Requires cool, dry, winter rest period. 

Also called bleeding heart vine! 

GOLDFISH PLANT Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Orange pouch flowers. Blooms resemble goldfish! 

Hypocyrta glabra Glossy green leaves. Trailing vine is outstanding flowering 

hanger. 

IVY-ENGLISH Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Green or variegated Trailing, climbing vine with several 

Hedera helix out before watering. lobed leaves. varieties. Good hanging plant for bright 

location. 

IVY-GRAPE Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Compound leaves with Fast growing, climbing, trailing vine. 

Cissus rhombifolia out before watering. 3 toothed leaflets. Member of the true grape vine family. 

IVY-KANGAROO Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Toothed ovate, Member of the grape ivy family. 

Cissus antarctica out before watering. glossy leaves. 

IVY-SWEDISH Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Aromatic, square stems. Trailing, fast growing, hanging 

Plectrantus australis Small oval leaves. houseplant. Easy to prune & propagate. 

LIPSTICK PLANT Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Red tube-like flowers. Trailing stems suitable in a hanging 

Aeschynanthus species Elliptic leaves. basket. Blossoms resemble lipstick 

tubes! 

NERVE PLANT Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Small oval, Creeping ground cover plant. 

Fittonia verschaffeltii Extra humidity is required. veined leaves. Variegated veins look like nerves. 

POTHOS-GOLDEN Medium sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Heart-shaped, Easy to grow climbing or hanging plant. 

Scindapsus aureus out before watering. variegated leaves. Also called devil's ivy. Also marble 

queen. 

PRAYER PLANT Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Ornate oblong leaves. Suitable plant for trellis or hanger. 

Maranta leuconeura Extra humidity is required. Leaves bend up at night to pray! 

PURPLE PASSION VINE Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Velvety, purple Pinch off any flower buds as flowers 

Gynura sarmentosa Avoid getting foliage wet. hairy leaves smell bad. Also called velvet plant. 

SPIDER PLANT Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Arching, variegated, Small spider-shaped, hanging plantlets. 

Chlorophytum comosum linear leaves. Colorful foliage that also cleans the air. 

STRING OF PEARLS Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Pea-shaped, Pearly unique, dangling leaves on a 

Senecio rowleyanus before watering. succulent leaves. string. Withstands low humidity of 

houses. 

WANDERING JEW Medium sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Purple and green, Colorful foliage. 

Zebrina pendula out before watering. ovate leaves. Beautiful hanging houseplant. 

WAX PLANT Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Waxy scented flowers. Semi-succulent, climbing foliage. 

Hoya carnosa before watering. Fleshy leaves. Prefers to be root bound. 

HoUSePLAntS 101

HoUSePLAntS 

102 

HoUSePLAntS BonSAi 

Bonsai does not refer to a type of plant, but rather 

describes a method of pruning and shaping to create 

an illusion of a very old, miniature tree. A dwarf plant is 

created by restricting the root zone in a shallow pot. A 

bonsai can be created from any plant which develops 

a woody trunk and tolerates pruning well. Bonsai are 

classified into tropical plants, deciduous shrubs or 

evergreens. There are several forms, such as formal 

upright, informal upright, cascade and windswept. 

The easiest bonsai to care for, if you are a 

beginning novice, is a tropical plant. A fig, for example, 

grows well in our indoor living conditions, so continues 

to do so after it is pruned and repotted. Also suitable 

are boxwood (Buxus), Fukien Tea (Carmona), Myrtle 

(Myrtus), Natal Plum (Carissa), and Tree of a Thousand 

Stars (Serissa). 

Deciduous shrubs and trees need a cold, 

dormant period in the winter, just as if they were 

growing outdoors. Plants such as Young's Weeping 

Birch, Siberian Elm, Cotoneaster damneri, and Pygmy 

Caragana form attractive bonsai. During the winter 

they need to be kept in a cool but frost-free area and 

need little light once they have lost their leaves. Close 

to but not touching a window in a cool room is suitable. 

They can't be kept outside in their pots above ground 

during the winter, as the soil temperature fluctuates 

dramatically during our weather changes. A garage 

heated to just above freezing is suitable, or the plant 

may be buried in the ground to just above the pot rim, 

then mulched well over the winter. 

Evergreens are the most challenging. Because 

they need high humidity in the winter, and a temperature 

just above freezing, they cannot be grown successfully 

in your living room. They will tolerate a windowsill if 

kept close enough to the glass to be quite cool, as long 

as the needles don't touch the glass if it is very cold 

outside. Keep warm air away from the pot and ensure 

there is no hot air register under them. To increase 

humidity, set the pot on pebbles in a large tray with the 

water level just below the top of the pebbles. Water 

evaporates from the tray and creates higher humidity 

around the plant. 

The amount of light a bonsai needs depends 

on the type of plant. Figs, for example, need medium 

sunlight while azaleas require bright filtered light and 

citrus needs bright direct sunlight. Deciduous trees need 

no light when they have lost their leaves in the winter, 

and a bright, sunny spot when in leaf. When evergreens 

are cold in the winter, they go semi-dormant so need 

little light, but need a bright light when warm enough to 

grow. Many bonsai are grown under fluorescent lights, 

usually using one cool white and one warm white bulb. 

The lights must be quite close to the plants, and the 

length of the day depends on the type. 

Because bonsai are in small pots, with their 

roots confined, watering is critical. Soil mixtures should 

encourage good drainage, and will vary depending 

on the type of plant. Inserting a finger into the soil 

will tell you if the soil is damp, or dry enough to need 

water. No bonsai soil surface should be covered with 

any material that prevents water from evaporating from 

the surface, or does not allow you to feel the soil. In hot 

weather, most bonsai will need checking for water daily, 

as once a plant dries out, the roots may not be able to 

absorb water and it could die. After many years of care, 

that may be devastating! Bonsai do not need a great 

deal of fertilizer, as you not want to encourage rapid 

growth. The type of fertilizer used depends on the type 

of plant, but is generally a balanced one, such as 20- 

20-20, for deciduous trees or tropicals, and 30-10-10 for 

evergreens. Use half the recommended strength only, 

and do not fertilize in the winter unless it is a tropical that 

is activley growing under fluorescent lights. 

There are specific rules for pruning, wiring, etc., 

and many good books are available in our book stores to 

help you. Remember that if the book suggests growing 

outside, it may be referring to Japan! We encourage you 

to ask for our assistance to help you enjoy your Bonsai!

HoUSePLAntS orCHiDS 

Cymbidium - Kit Ho 

The orchid family includes 25,000 

species, with a large variety in 

size, shape and color. Most of 

these, the house plant grower 

never sees. Many of these are 

very difficult to grow but there 

are also orchids which can be 

grown very successfully indoors 

by anyone who can grow 

houseplants. Orchids have 

the longest lasting flowers 

of all houseplants, up to 4 

months. For convenience, 

orchids are classified into 

two basic types by growth 

habit. Epiphytic orchids grow 

on trees for support, such as 

Oncidium or Phalaenopsis. 

Terrestrial orchids grow with 

their roots in soil. Care is slightly 

different for each type. There is also 

two types of growth. Those with 

a monopodial type become taller 

each year, growing only at the 

tip of the stem. Leaves are in 

two rows on opposite sides 

of the stem, alternating from 

side to side. An example is 

Dendrobium. The second, 

and more common type is 

sympodial. In this case, the 

upward growth of the plant stops 

after one growing season, and the 

next year’s growth comes from the 

base. Blooms come from the tips 

of recent growth or from the sides 

or bases of it. Cymbidiums are 

sympodial orchids. Sympodial 

orchids have pseudobulbs, 

thickened stems that store food 

and water and enable the plant to 

survive periods of drought. 

Orchid leaves are usually thick and 

leathery and the vast majority are 

evergreen. The flowers always 

contain three sepals and three 

petals, but the variety is 

remarkable. 

Orchids may be grouped 

into three general categories, 

according to the temperature 

they prefer for their best growth. 

Cool-growing orchids prefer 

daytime temperatures of 60-70 

F(15-21 C) during the day, dropping 

to 50-55 F (10-13C) at night. This group 

includes Cymbidium. Intermediate 

temperatures of 65-75 F (18-24 C) 

during the day and 55-60 F (13-16 C) 

at night are suitable for Cattlyea and 

Dendrobium. Daytime temperatures of 

75-85 F (24-29 C) dropping to 65-75 F 

(18-24 C) at night, are best for warmgrowing 

orchids such as Phalaenopsis. 

This does not mean that you need 

separate rooms for each type of orchid; 

the cool growing one will be okay closest 

to a window and the warm growing one 

in a warmer area of your room. 

Orchids do need higher humidity than 

is usual in our homes, particularly in 

the winter. Pebble trays (large saucers 

or pans filled with pebbles or marbles), 

with the level of water just below the top 

of the pebbles and the plant sitting on 

the pebbles, so that water can’t get into 

the pot from the bottom but evaporates 

around it; or saucers of water with plastic 

egg crating, wire mesh or cake racks on 

top help to increase the humidity in the 

immediate vicinity of the plants. 

The amount of light orchids need varies 

considerably, depending on the type of 

orchid. It is important to identify your 

orchid and choose plants best suited for 

your growing area. Many may be grown 

on window sills and others thrive under 

florescent or high-intensity lights. 

Most orchids are potted into fir bark 

although there are other suitable 

potting media. Choose appropriate size 

pieces for the pot size, ensuring so by 

buying only that packaged specifically 

for orchids. Any container with a 

drainage hole can be used. Typically, 

clay pots are used, but ceramic pots 

may be successful. Because they are 

not porous, care must be taken not to 

over water. Some orchids are fastened 

to slabs of bark or logs, and hung from 

the ceiling or on walls, duplicating their 

natural environment. 

Watering frequency depends on the 

size and type of container. Orchids in 

small pots need watering more often 

than ones in a larger pots; plants 

growing in clay pots or on bark dry out 

more quickly than those in plastic pots. 

Orchids won't tolerate stagnant water 

HoUSePLAntS 10

HoUSePLAntS 

10 

HoUSePLAntS orCHiDS 

around their roots or bark that is constantly wet. Allow the 

bark to become dry before watering again. 

Orchid fertilizer or 20-20-20 fertilizer is suitable. Use more 

frequently when plants are actively growing and less in winter 

when light levels are lower and plants are in a semi-dormant 

stage. Orchids need a cycle of growth and dormancy, so if 

they are being grown under artificial lights, the length 

of day will indicate how long lights 

should be on. 

Orchids are prone to fungal 

disease and root rot, caused 

usually 

by poor drainage or too 

frequent watering. 

Insect problems are 

rare but sometimes 

m e a l y b u g s 

appear. If this 

h a p p e n s , 

check with our 

staff for help 

with a suitable 

control. 

Of the many types 

of orchids available, 

Phalaenopsis, dwarf 

Cattleya and Dendrobium are the 

easiest to grow and bloom successfully. For the 

beginner, these are definitely worth a try and require no unusual 

growing conditions. For more detailed information on growing 

orchids see our bookstore. 

Cattleya: Cattleyas become large plants, but there are also 

dwarf varieties which are more suitable for our homes. They 

need a warm, sunny spot; and should become dry before 

watering. They will produce one or two flower spikes 

each year. 

Cymbidium: Keep these orchids in bright light. 

They need cool evening temperatures to ensure 

blooming. Place plants outside in late May and leave 

them out until early September or until threat of frost. 

During the summer water freely and fertilize with a 

well-balanced plant food. This will ensure healthy, 

strong new growth. In August stop feeding and decrease 

water. This will put the plant into a stress situation which 

is essential to force it to initiate flower spike production. At 

this time, night temperatures must be considerably colder 

than daytime temperatures.The starting spike will appear at 

the base of mature new growth. At this time start fertilizing 

with a high potassium plant food. Watering should be resumed 

to a normal amount. Cool evening temperatures must be 

maintained if possible or the spike will wither or buds may 

drop. If all goes well your plant will reward you with as many 

as thirty blooms on a single spike that lasts up to 3 months 

on the plant or several weeks if cut. 

Dendrobium: Dendrobiums are epiphytic orchids that come 

in a variety of vivid colors and sizes. They have several stalks 

with flower clusters in rows along them. Dendrobiums flower 

in spring or summer and each bloom lasts approximately 2 

months, ensuring continuous enjoyment. These orchids have 

similar cultural requirements as Phalaenopsis. Dendrobiums 

need bright filtered sunlight, high phosphorus fertilizer and 

high humidity. 

Phalaenopsis(Moth orchid): These plants are native 

primarily to Southeast Asia where the climate is warm and 

moist. They are well suited to home culture. The Moth Orchid 

(the common name for Phalaenopsis), needs bright light, 

good air circulation, regular watering as necessary 

and average to slightly cool temperature. Bloom 

spikes are produced sporadically throughout the 

year. After blooms fade do not cut off the spike. 

The spike tip may continue to produce buds or 

branches may form from nodes lower down the 

spike. Flowering lasts 3-4 months on the spike 

in the pot, or 1 - 2 weeks if cut and floating in 

a bowl. 

Orchids such as the above mentioned are relatively easy 

to grow. They will reward attentive growers with exotic 

and beautiful color and variety. In a well-planned collection 

blooming is possible every season of the year.

HoUSePLAntS trAnSPLAntinG 

House plants may be repotted for two reasons; either 

the plant has outgrown its pot and needs a larger one, 

or the potting mix needs replacing but the plant can be 

returned into the same pot. Young plants in small pots 

need repotting more often than older, larger ones. If 

water runs quickly through the soil into the saucer and 

the plant needs watering more often because the soil 

isn't retaining moisture, it could need a larger pot. 

Early spring, just as new growth begins, is an ideal time 

to repot, but a plant that needs repotting should be done 

anytime of the year, except when actively flowering. 

Choose a pot one size larger than before (e.g. an eightinch 

pot if the plant has outgrown a six-inch one). A plant 

in a pot too large cannot absorb moisture from the soil 

quickly enough to allow air into the soil and root damage 

may result. 

Most plants do well in ceramic, clay or plastic pots. 

Unglazed clay pots allow the soil to dry out more quickly, 

which is preferable for cacti and succulents, and allow 

gaseous exchange. Soil in plastic or glazed ceramic pots 

stays moist longer, which is appropriate for ferns and 

ivies. With careful watering, a plant will do well in any 

type of pot. Choose a pot with drainage holes to allow 

excess water to drain from the soil. If you use rocks in 

the bottom of the pot, be sure a rock isn't plugging the 

drainage hole, and cover the rock layer with a piece of 

landscape fabric or fiberglass screening to prevent soil 

and roots from entering the space between the rocks. Be 

sure water doesn't remain standing in drainage saucers. 

Most potting mixes are combinations of peat moss, 

vermiculite, perlite and/or sand. Cacti and succulents 

need extra sand added to improve drainage (one part 

sand to one part potting mix is suitable). Other house 

plants such as dracaenas, palms, or citrus that need 

well drained soil should have about one part sand added 

to three parts potting mix. When repotting remove what 

soil comes off easily, without damaging the roots; and 

add new soil in the bottom and the sides, placing the 

plant at the same depth it was previously. Leave 1/2 

inch between soil level and the rim of the pot to make 

watering easier. 

Water house plants when the soil in the pot is as dry 

as it should be for that plant. Some need to become 

completely dry (e.g. cactus), some must always be moist 

(e.g. azalea), and most should allow the soil surface 

to partially dry before watering. Water thoroughly, so 

that a small amount trickles through the drainage hole, 

indicating that the whole root ball has been moistened, 

and remove any water remaining in the saucer. Water 

again when the soil has become as dry as it should be 

for that plant. Inserting a finger into the soil will indicate 

if the plant requires watering. Soil pulling away from the 

side of the pot also indicates a need for water. Watering 

too often is a very common problem, and can cause root 

rot, so it is important to check each plant, and not water 

them all because one plant needs a drink! Do not fertilize 

until the plant has shown some sign of new growth. At 

that point, your plant has settled nicely into its new pot 

and should continue to thrive. 

HoUSePLAntS ProPAGAtion 

You may want to propagate a plant because you want more 

plants, such as an African violet you wish to share with a 

friend. You may be concerned if the plant has a long stem 

and want to reroot it at a more suitable place (such as a 

dieffenbachia), or you may want to grow a plant from seed 

you saved or found or take cuttings from a plant. 

Leaf Cuttings: This method is used most often with 

African violets. Choose a leaf that is not the newest or the 

oldest, cutting it cleanly with 1 inch of stem. It can be rooted 

in water, but the roots are very fragile and more difficult 

to plant. A better choice is vermiculite, in a small pot (or 

styrofoam drinking cup), kept slightly moist. If you put clear 

plastic wrap over the cup of vermiculite and poke a hole in 

it with a pencil, you can insert the stem through the hole 

and it will support the leaf and also keep the vermiculite 

from drying out. A rooting hormone such as Stimroot will 

encourage root development. Simply dip the cut stem in the 

powder before it is inserted in the rooting material. When 

bushy little roots have developed, the plant is potted into a 

small pot in potting soil. Several little plants will be clumped 

together. They can be pulled apart and planted separately 

when still small. 

Stem Cuttings: Tropical plants such as ivy, creeping 

charley, wandering Jew, and geranium are easily 

propagated by cutting a piece off the end of a stem, with 

about five leaves on it. Cut just below a leaf, and cut that 

leaf off. It is rooted the same way as an African violet leaf. 

If the plant is one that needs high humidity, enclosing the 

cutting & pot in a plastic bag with an air hole punched in it 

will keep the humidity higher around the leaves until they 

root. Geranium cuttings should be left for the cut surface 

to dry before being inserted into the rooting material. Cacti 

and succulents should also be left to dry, and are best 

rooted in moist sand. 

Air Layering: Plants such as a dieffenbachia or rubber 

plant often lose lower leaves so that a tuft of leaves is at 

the top of a long stalk. By air layering you can form a root 

system just below the leaves to create a shorter, bushy 

plant. First, stake the plant, tying above and below where 

you want the roots to be. Choose a spot where you want 

the roots to be, just below where a leaf was. Cut a narrow 

wedge half way into the stalk, taking care not to cut all the 

way through! Rooting hormone inserted into the cut area 

with the knife blade will encourage rooting. Wrap moist 

sphagnum moss around the cut area, then cover with clear 

plastic, tying above and below the moss. 

Roots will take about 4 - 6 weeks — check periodically 

to be sure moss is damp. When a good root system has 

developed, cut stalk below roots and plant in a small pot. 

The stalk can be cut off a few inches above the soil and 

new leaves will form at that point. Pieces of stalk can also 

be rooted, by placing them horizontally in damp soil. 

Starting Plants from Seed: Many tropical plants will 

develop seeds if dead flowers are allowed to remain on the 

plant. African violets, weeping fig, palms and cactus are 

some examples. Leave the seed pod on the plant until it 

is starting to dry, then remove it and place in a warm, dry 

place until dry. Scatter seeds on moist soil in a shallow 

container and cover with clear plastic. Once seedlings 

emerge, keep in bright sun or under florescent lights, 

checking frequently to be sure soil doesn't dry. Repot when 

several leaves have grown, into separate small pots. 

HoUSePLAntS 10

treeS AnD SHrUBS 

106 

DeCiDUoUS 

fAVoriteS 

Ash (Fraxinus spp.) 

These fast-growing, large trees have long, compound 

leaves. They leaf out late in the spring and lose their 

leaves early in the fall after a short period of a brilliant 

yellow show. All ash varieties make excellent shade 

or street trees. Common types are Fallgold Black Ash 

which have a pyramidal form, Green Ash which have a 

dense, oval canopy, and Patmore Ash which is a male 

non-seeding clone of Green Ash. 

Birch (Betula spp.) 

The white bark of these trees peels off making them especially 

attractive in the winter months. White birch are 

often sold in an attractive multi-stemmed format. These 

stately trees make an excellent shade tree. Birches 

require a good supply of water in our dry summers to 

keep up their strength in order to fight off leaf miner 

and to prevent winter dieback, two major problems of 

birch. Good varieties are White Birch, Cut-leaf Weeping 

Birch, and Paper Birch. 

Hawthorn (Crataegus spp.) 

These medium textured small trees grow in an upright 

oval fashion. The glossy, dark green, coarsely toothed 

leaves form a dense, low-headed canopy. Branches of 

Hawthorn are covered with long, sharp thorns. These 

trees make excellent small shade trees and can easily 

be combined with shrubs and perennials. Snowbird 

Hawthorns feature bright white, long lasting double 

flowers in late spring. Toba Hawthorn has bright pink 

flowers in spring followed by clusters of dark red berries. 

Mountain Ash (Sorbus spp.) 

The compound fern-like dark green leaves of this 

tree turn orange and red in the fall and form a dense, 

low-headed canopy. Large clusters of scarlet colored 

berries follow the large clusters of white flowers. These 

berries are retained all winter long and attract birds. 

The dark reddish-brown bark is especially attractive in 

the winter months. All Mountain Ash trees make excellent, 

medium-sized shade trees and can be combined 

with shrubs and perennials. Good drainage for roots 

is necessary. 

Mayday (Prunus padus commutata) 

These coarse textured trees grow in an upright, spreading 

fashion. The oval-shaped green leaves, turning 

yellow in the fall, form an open, high-headed canopy. 

The large, fragrant clusters of white flowers, produced 

in May, are followed by small, black chokecherries. 

Maydays make excellent shade trees. 

Poplar (Populus spp.) 

Poplars are coarse-textured trees that rapidly grow 

into a large, broad specimen. The glossy green leaves, 

turning yellow in the fall, form a dense canopy. Two 

new and highly popular forms of Populus species are 

Swedish Columnar Aspen which has a very compact 

habit with small leaves similar to Trembling Aspen and 

Tower Poplar (pictured above) which bears larger, more 

triangular leaves and has a slightly more pyramidal 

form. 

Russian Olive (Eleagnus angustifolia) 

These fine textured trees grow in an upright oval 

fashion. The silvery, linear leaves form an open, lowheaded 

canopy. Dry, silvery seed follows the yellow, 

very fragrant flowers. The silvery color of this species 

contrasts well with evergreens. These trees perform 

best in sheltered locations.

DeCiDUoUS treeS yoUr qUeStionS 

Q: What can I do to give us some privacy on our 

back deck? There is about 8 feet from my back deck 

to my fence, and the neighbour’s deck is right on 

the other side of the fence. 

A. You have two options you could go with: 

1. You could add a lattice screen onto your deck. 

2. Plant narrow growing trees such as Swedish 

Columnar Aspens, or Tower Poplars. This would still 

allow a small walkway between your trees and your 

deck. They look best when planted in odd numbers 

such as three or five depending on the distance you 

need to cover. 

Q: My front yard is very small because I have a pie 

shaped lot. I was wondering if a spruce tree might 

be too overwhelming? 

A. Because the winter months outnumber the summer 

months it is recommended that you should plant 50% 

of your front yard with evergreens. Spruce are larger 

at the bottom which takes up a lot of space in your 

yard. You can substitute for an ornamental deciduous 

tree to minimize the ground area used. You can also 

complement the tree and the foundation of your house 

by planting junipers, dwarf pines, or cedars, to give you 

year round greenery. 

Q: I am looking for a fruit tree and I am wondering 

what will give me the best production and quality 

of fruit? 

A: There are many fruit trees available and they are 

very popular as new yards are smaller. Apples and 

crabapples give you the best quality and the highest 

consistent yields of fruit. Apricots, pears, and plums are 

also very hardy in Calgary, but fruit can be inconsistent 

due to late spring frosts which damage flower buds. 

Because of our short season early fall frosts can 

hamper fruit formation. More information in the fruit 

tree section. 

Q: When should I prune my tree? 

A: The rule of thumb for most trees is they should be 

pruned before leaves start to emerge in the spring. 

There are however some exceptions. Birch and 

maples should be pruned in late summer to prevent 

heavy bleeding (loss of sap). This is when the plant is 

starting to slow down its growth and the cut has the 

best chance of healing over. Diseased, damaged, or 

dead wood should be removed on sight regardless of 

season. Good books on pruning are available for the 

do it yourselfer. 

Q: My trees seem to be doing fine, but aren’t 

growing as fast as some of my neighbours’ trees. 

Is it necessary to fertilize my trees? 

A: Our body needs a whole spectrum of nutrients 

and micronutrients, and trees are no different. Your 

trees may be doing fine, but could be doing better. 

Fertilize in early spring with granular, water soluble, 

or slow-release tree stakes for established trees. You 

should stop in August as you want the trees to start 

the hardening off process in the fall. Different trees 

have different needs so please feel free to ask a staff 

member. Take care not to over-fertilize because it 

may contribute to polluting lakes and rivers. Overfertilization 

can also increase the likelihood of some 

plant diseases. 

Q. I have just cut down my poplar. How can I 

prevent it from suckering? 

A. Suckers, shoots of the tree that come up from the 

roots, are essentially the tree’s way of replacing the 

upper growth that has been removed. Nearly half 

of the tree exists underground in the form of roots. 

These roots need to survive so they send up suckers 

to allow the tree to photosynthesize and thus continue 

to survive. In this situation the worst thing you can do is 

grind the stump; you will be left with many independent 

roots. Leave the stump and drill holes at 45 degree 

angles near the top edge. Pour in a mixture of one part 

concentrate Killex to four parts water - any stronger 

will burn the plant tissue and the solution will not 

travel through the whole system. This will indtroduce 

a herbicide into the tree and should spread throughout 

the root system. You can help this process by applying 

regular strength Killex to any suckers that may come 

up. 


10


10 

Brandon Elm Plum 

Columnar Aspen 

Snowbird Hawthorn Mayday 

Dolgo Crabapple Cutleaf Weeping Birch

DeCiDUoUS treeS frUit treeS 

Apples (Malus spp.) 

There are a number of quite hardy apples that can be 

grown on the prairies. Apple trees are very decorative, 

provide the benefit of edible fruit, and are an appropriate 

size for small yard landscaping. All edible-fruited apple 

trees have white blossoms and require cross-pollination 

from other local apples or crabapple trees to produce 

fruit. Some varieties are Fall Red, Goodland, Harcourt, 

Norland, North Battleford, and September Ruby. 

Apple-crabs are fruit trees developed by crossing 

standard apples with crabapples. The fruit is generally 

smaller (less than 5 cm or 2” in diameter) but the trees 

are hardier than standard apples. Two varieties are 

Kerr and Rescue. 

Crabapples are very hardy and wide-spreading producing 

small, tart crabapples with a high pectin content 

making them exceptionally good for jelly making. A 

good variety is Dolgo with tart, juicy, and crisp fruit that 

ripens in late August. 

Apricots (Prunus armeniaca) 

Because apricot trees bloom so early in the spring late 

frosts often damage the flowers and prevent fruit from 

forming. Stop apricots from flowering early by heavily 

mulching the soil around the base of the trees. This will 

keep the soil temperature low. Remove the mulch in 

mid-May, allow the soil to warm and the blossoms to 

form after the danger of frost has passed. Since apricots 

are cross-pollinators two trees of different varieties are 

required to set fruit. All apricot varieties hardy enough 

for the prairies like Brookcot were developed from the 

Manchurian Apricot. 

Pears (Pyrus x spp.) 

As ornamental trees, the hardy pears are worth growing 

for their abundant, white flower clusters produced early 

in the spring and for their bright yellow to red autumn 

colors. The dense foliage is also an attractive glossy 

green color. The fruit, good for making jams or cooked 

desserts in most cases, is small and hard with gritty 

flesh. Since pears are cross-pollinators two varieties 

of trees are required to set fruit. 

Plums (Prunus spp.) 

Like apricots, plum trees bloom early in the spring. 

Follow the directions for apricots regarding the slowing 

of blossoming. Plums also require another variety 

for pollination. Good varieties are Brookgold, a yellow, 

sweet variety good for eating fresh, and Brookred, a 

red, sweet plum good for canning. 


10


110 

DeCiDUoUS treeS 

Names Height Spread Zone 

Summer 

Foliage 

Color 

Fall 

Foliage 

Color 

Flower 

Color 

Features 

all trees listed subject to seasonal 


AMUR CHERRY 30 ft. 15 ft. 3 Green Yellow White Black fruit follow flowers. 

Prunus maacki 9 m. 5 m. Colorful flaking bronze bark for winter color. 

AMUR MAPLE 16 ft. 10 ft. 3 Green Scarlet Samara Small graceful tree or large shrub. 

Acer ginnala 5 m. 3 m. Red Excellent fall color leaves and 2-winged seeds. 

APPLE - Malus 

BATTLEFORD 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Lg green/red striped fruit. Ripens Sept; fresh/cook 

COMBINATION 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow Lt Pink Minimum of 3 cultivars grafted onto 1 tree; unique 

FALL RED 15'/5m 12'/4m. 3 Green Yellow White Lg red fruit; Ripens in Sept; eat fresh; stores well 

GOODLAND 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Lg red/green fruit. Ripens mid Sept; fresh/cook/store 

HARALSON 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Lg green/red striped fruit. Ripe late Sept; fresh/store 

HARCOURT 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Fruit is red. Ripens late Sept; Good for eating fresh. 

HARDI-MAC 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow Lt Pink Bright red crisp fruit. Ripe late Sept. MacIntosh var. 

HEYER#12 16'/5.3m 13'/4.3m 3 Green Yellow Lt. Pink Early Ripening; good for eating fresh and cooking 

NORLAND 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Medium green fruit w/ red stripes; Ripe August; fresh 

NORKENT 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Lg green fruit w/ red stripes; like Golden Delicious 

PARKLAND 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Med. red fruit. Ripe August; fresh/cook/store 

PATTERSON 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Med. yellow fruit. Ripe mid Sept; fresh/cooking 

RED SPARKLE 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Med red/green fruit with nutty/fruity taste 

SEPTEMBER RUBY 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Med. red fruit. Ripe mid Sept; fresh/juice/store 

APPLECRAB - Malus - Cross of apple and crabapple 

KERR 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow White Med. dark red fruit; ripe Sept; eat fresh 

RESCUE 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow White Med. green/red striped fruit; Ripe Sept. 

APRICOT - Prunus 

BROOKCOT 16'/5m 13'/4m 4 Green Amber White 2 var. needed for pollination; better for flowers only 

MANCHURIAN 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Amber White Sm. fast-growing ; Rounded; winter hardy; xeriscape 

SCOUT 16'/5m 13'/4m 4 Green Amber White Similar to Brookcot; freestone fruit; canning & jams 

WESTCOT 16'/5m 13'/4m 4 Green Amber White As above; Freestone good for canning, jam making. 

ASH - Fraxinus 

FALLGOLD BLACK 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow n/a More uniform shape than green ash; seedless 

FOOTHILLS 12'/4m 7'/2.5m 3 Green Yellow n/a Uniform shape; seedless; good fall color 

MANCHURIAN 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow n/a Compact uniform street/ shade tree; exotic look 

NORTHERN GEM 40'/13m 40'/13m 3 Green Yellow n/a Glossy green leaves; orange-yellow fall color 

NORTHERN TREASURE 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow n/a Hybrid with upright growth; Excellent cold tolerance. 

PATMORE GREEN 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow n/a Seedless;leafs out earlier & holds leaves longer 

PRAIRIE SPIRE 12'/4m 6'/2m 3 Green Yello n/a Seedless; narrow pyramidal form 

ASPEN - Populus 

QUAKING/TREMBLING 30'/9m 15'/5m 2 Green Yellow Catkins Native tree; leaves tremble in wind; DOES have fluff 

SWEDISH COLUMNAR 30'/9m 5'/2m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Narrow columnar tree; vertical accent for small area. 

BIRCH - Betula 

CUTLEAF WEEPING 30'/10m 20'/6m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Likes lots of water. Bark whitens with age; graceful 

EUROPEAN WHITE 30'/10m 20'/6m 3 Green Yellow Catkins As above with round leaves; clump avail; likes water 

PAPER 30'/10m 20'/6m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Whitest papery bark of all; clump avail; likes water 

RIVER 30'/10m 20'/6m 4 Green Yellow Cones One of the best and fastest-growing birches for shade 

TROST'S DWARF 3'/1m 3'/1m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Mounding lace-leaf form; likes full sun 

BIRCH-YOUNG’S WEEPING 10'/3m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Small weeping tree; White bark; Likes lots of water. 

CARAGANA - SUTHERLAND 13 ft 5 ft 2 Green Yellow Yellow Tall, columnar accent plant 

Caragana arborescens 'Sutherland' 4m 1.5 m Attractive in row plantings as a tall hedge 

CHERRY - Prunus 

EVANS SOUR 12'/4m 10'/3m 3 Green Yellow White Self-pollinating; excellent for eating, jams ,etc 

NANKING (tree) 9'/3m 9'/3m 3 Green Yellow Pink Red fruit mid-July; eating; jellies, etc; loved by birds 

NORTH STAR 16'/5m 13'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Self pollinating tree with red sour cherries. 

CHERRY-PLUM - Prunus - cross between cherry and a plum 

COMPASS 12'/4m 10'/3m 2 Green Yellow White Self pollinating; good to pollinate other prunus spp. 

SAPALTA 12'/4m 10'/3m 3 Green Yellow White Small purple fruit (1") ripe mid-August 

CRABAPPLE - Malus 

ALMEY 25'/8m 15'/5m 3 Purple Bronze Rose Pink Red Fruit; upright growth habit 

COLUMNAR DOLGO 20'/6m 4'/1m 3 Green Yellow White Columnar form of popular Dolgo variety 

COLUMNAR ROSTHERN 20'/6m 4'/1m 3 Green Yellow White Suitable for small yard; Fragrant flowers; small fruit. 

DREAMWEAVER 10’/3m 3’/1m 3 Purple Purple Bright Pink Columnar crabapple perfect for today’s smaller yards 

DOLGO 25'/8m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow White Wide branching; makes delicious jelly. 

ECHTERMEYER WEEPING 15'/5m 6'/3m 3 Reddish Red Purple Requires staking 1st few years; large fruit & blooms



Summer 

Foliage 

Color 

Fall 

Foliage 

Color 

Flower 

Color 

Features 



FUCHSIA GIRL 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Purple Purple Red/Pink Fireblight resistant; Good alternative to 'Royalty' 

HOPA 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow Rose Prolific bloomer; Upright growth widens with age. 

KELSEY 15'/5m 15'/5m 4 Bronze Orange Red/Purple Bronze foliage. Only double flowering crab. 

MAKAMIK 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Bronze Orange Rose Vigorous growing crab with profuse flowers. 

MORNING PRINCESS 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Purple Bronze Pink Beautiful deep purple leaves with pink blooms 

PINK SPIRE 15'/5m 6'/1.5m 3 Red-purple Bronze Rose-pink Small reddish-purple fruit; narrow habit 

PRAIRIE FIRE 15'/5m 15'/5m 4 Green Yellow Red/Purple Very resistant to disease; prolific flowering 

RADIANT 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Red-Green Orange Rose New leaves emerge red then turn to green. 

ROSY GLO 6'/2m 6'/2m 3 Purple Bronze purple-pink Weeping growth habit; purple-black fruit 

ROYAL BEAUTY 12'/4m 8'/2.5m 3 Red-Bronze Purple Red-Pink Dark red fruit does not fall; birds love fruit 

ROYALTY 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Purple Orange Red Spectacular purple leaves; dark red flowers in spring 

RUDOLPH 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Bronze Orange Red Small tree with very attractive spring growth. 

SELKIRK 20'/6m 20'/6m 3 Bronze Orange Pink Red leaves turns bronze-green over summer; hardy 

SNOWCAP 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Orange White No fruit; very fragrant spring flowers 

SPRING SNOW 20'/6m 20'/6m 3 Green Orange White Does not bear fruit; Tolerates heat well 

STRATHMORE 20'/6m 13'/4m 3 Bronze Orange Pink Uniform upright pyramidal grower; Profuse blooms. 

THUNDERCHILD 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Purple Orange Pink More uniform than Royalty; fire blight resistant 

TINA - TOPGRAFT 5'/1.5m 5'/1.5m 4 Green Yellow White Dwarf shrub grafted on standard; slow-growing 

ELM - Ulmus 

AMERICAN 50'/15m 30'/9m 3 Green Yellow Samara Umbrella or vase-shaped street or shade tree. 

BRANDON 40'/12m 25'/8m 3 Green Yellow Samara Same as American elm but small and compact. 

SIBERIAN 25'/8m 20'/6m 2 Green Yellow Samara Quick growing; resistant to Dutch elm disease. 

HAWTHORN - Crataegus 

SNOWBIRD 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Green White Glossy serrated leaves. Clusters of red fruit. 

TOBA 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Green Pink Upright tree with double pink flowers in spring. 

LILAC - Syringa 

JAPANESE TREE 20'/6m 12'/4m 3 Green Orange Cream-wht Flowers in summer; Deep brown bark color. 

IVORY SILK 20'/6m 12'/4m 3 Green Orange Cream-wht Compact selection of Japanese Tree Lilac. 

GOLDEN ECLIPSE 15'/5m 10'/3m 2 Green-gold Yellow Cream-wht Leaves edged with gold; resists sunburn 

LINDEN- DROPMORE 20'/6m 12'/4m 4 Green Yellow Cream Very fragrant flowers in June; pyramidal form 

Tilia flavescens 'Dropmore' borderline species in Calgary 

MAPLE 

MANITOBA 30'/9m 20'/6m 2 Green Yellow Samara Has furrowed bark and is also called box elder. 

KOREAN 15'/5m 10'/3m 4 Green Orange Purple Good replacement for Japanese Maple; beautiful 

SENSATION 30'/9m 20'/6m 3 Green Red Male clone so no seeds; slow-growing 

MAYDAY 

MAYDAY 30'/9m 25'/8m 3 Green Yellow White Showy fragrant flower clusters in May. 

Prunus padus commutata Black bitter fruit attracts birds. 

MAYDAY - ADVANCE 30 ft 10 ft 3 Green Yellow White Columnar form of Mayday 

Punus padus commutata 'Advance' 9m 25m Flowers bloom earlier than standard Maydays 

ETHEL MAYDAY 30'/9m 25'/8m 3 Green Yellow Pink Pink flowers for unique spring show 

MOUNTAIN ASH - Sorbus 

AMERICAN americana 25'/8m 20'/6m 3 Green Orange White Fruit attracts birds; lacy leaves; good fall color 

DWARF reducta 1'/30cm 3'/1m 3 Green Orange White Very-low growing; pink berries 

COLUMNAR auc. 'Fastigiata 25'/8m 9'/3m 3 Green Orange White Orange-red berries on narrow tree. 

EUROPEAN aucuparia 30'/9m 20'/6m 3 Green Orange White Similar to American but larger; Rowan Tree 

KOEHNE'S/CHINESE 7'/2m 3'/1m 4 Green Orng/red White White berries; striking fall color 

OAKLEAF hybrida 30'/9m 20'/6m 3 Green Yellow White Leaves shaped like oak leaves; red-orange berries 

RUSSIAN aucuparia ‘Rossica 25'/8m 12'/4m 3 Green Orange White Selection of European ; Upright columnar growth. 

SHOWY decora 20'/6m 15'/5m 2 Green Orange White Hardiest mt. ash with lacy compound leaves. 

OAK-BURR 30 ft. 20 ft. 3 Green Yellow Acorns Rare, slow growing, hardy oak for the prairies. 

Quercus macrocarpa 9 m. 6 m. Produces acorns. Lobed leaves. Corky bark. 

OHIO BUCKEYE 20 ft. 15 ft. 3 Green Yellow Light Large compound leaves. 

Aesculus glabra 6 m. 5 m. Yellow Interesting prickly nuts follow flowers. 

PEAR Pyrus spp. Two varieties required for cross pollination. 

EARLY GOLD 20'/6m 15'/5m 2 Green Amber White Very hardy, disease resistant, fruit like Ure 

GOLDEN SPICE 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Amber White Showy spring flowers; fruit good for cook or can 

MICHENER 20'/6m 15'/5m 4 Green Amber White Showy spring flowers; mid-sized fruit 

URE 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Amber White Sm. sweet, green fruit for canning; showy blooms 

PIN CHERRY 16 ft. 10 ft. 3 Green Orange White Small ornamental tree with fragrant flowers. 

Prunus pensylvanica 5 m. 3 m. Red cherries in fall attract birds. Reddish bark. 


111


112 



Summer 

Foliage 

Color 

Fall 

Foliage 

Color 

Flower 

Color 

Features 



PIN CHERRY 15 ft 10 ft 3 Green Red White Large weeping shrub - can be trained to tree form 

JUMPING POUND 5 m 3 m Small bright red berries in mid-summer 

PLUM 

BROOKGOLD 15' 12' 3 Green Amber White Gold skinned, tasty fruit. 

Prunus ‘Brookgold’ 5 m. 4 m. Ripens in August. Good fresh or canned. 

Cross pollinate with Nanking or Sandcherry. 

BROOKRED 15 ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Red skinned and orange fleshed, larger fruit. 

Prunus ‘Brookred’ 5 m. 4 m. Ripens in August. Good for canning. 

Cross pollinate with Pembina or Opata. 

BOUNTY 15 ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Hardy and productive tree 

Prunus 'Bounty' 5 m. 4 m. Sour fruit very good for preserves 

OPATA 15ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Greenish-purple skinned and green fleshed fruit. 

Prunus ‘Opata’ 5 m. 4 m. Ripens in August. Good for eating fresh and jelly. 

Pollinates with Brookred or Pembina. 

PEMBINA 15 ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Purple skinned,orange fleshed, larger fruit. 

Prunus 'Pembina' 5 m. 4 m. Ripens in Sept. Good for eating fresh. 

Pollinates with Brookred or Opata. 

TECUMSEH 15 ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Bears heavy crops of red plums with yellow flesh 

Prunus 'Tecumseh' 5 m. 4 m. One of the earliest to ripen. 

PLUM - CANADIAN WILD Prunus nigra 

PRINCESS KAY 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Amber white Double-flowering; very fragrant 

POPLAR Populus spp. 

BROOKS #6 50'/15m 40'/12m 2 Green Yellow Catkins Large hardy fast-growing; good for large area 

BYLAND GREEN 50'/15m 25'/10m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Fast growing tree for acreage or large area. 

NORTHWEST 65'/20m 50'/15m 2 Green Yellow Catkins Largest and fastest growing poplar tree. 

TOWER canescens ‘Tower’ 30'/9m 7'/2m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Narrow columnar tree for smaller yards. 

TRISTIS 40'/12m 30'/9m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Rapid growing round headed tree. 

RUSSIAN OLIVE 20 ft. 12 ft. 4 Silver Yellow Yellow Small tree with attractive silver leaves. 

Elaeagnus angustifolia 6 m. 4 m. Fragrant flowers. Drought tolerant. 

CHOKECHERRY Prunus virginiana 

SCHUBERT 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Purple Purple White Black cherries; new leaves green but mature purple 

BAILEY SELECT 21'/7m 12'/4m 3 Maroon Dk. Purple White Spring foliage matures maroon; black berries 

SPUR SCHUBERT 15'/5m 10'/3m 3 Maroon Dk. Purple White Compact Schubert; purple berries 

WESTERN CHOKECHERRY 16 ft. 13 ft. 2 Green Yellow White Multi-stemmed, native tree that attract birds. 

Prunus virginiana melanocarpa 5 m. 4 m. Black cherries follow fragrant spring flowers. 

WILLOW - Salix 

GOLDEN alba vitellina 30'/9m 25'/8m 4 Green Yellow Catkins Fast growing; attractive golden stems 

LAUREL LEAF pentandra 30'/9m 25'/8m 3 Green Green Catkins Fast growing; glossy leaves; water-loving 

SILVER/WHITE alba sericea 35'/10m 20'/6m 3 Silver Silver Catkins Fast growing ; silver summer foliage; likes water

SHrUB fAVoriteS 

Azalea/Rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.) 

These compact shrubs grow in an open, upright fashion. 

The leathery, glossy leaves are dark green in color. 

The fully double clusters of flowers, produced in late 

May or early June, are available in a number of colors, 

depending on variety. Azaleas and Rhododendrons require 

a partially shaded, sheltered location and damp, 

acidic soil. Winter protection is recommended. Look for 

the University of Finland varieties of Rhododendrons 

like Helsinki, Haaga, and Mikelli. Good azaleas are the 

Northern Lights and Orchid Lights series. 

Caragana (Caragana spp.) 

These fine-textured, drought-resistant shrubs come in 

many forms from upright pyramidal to grafted weeping 

and dwarf compact. They all produce bright yellow 

pea-like flowers in June followed by pea-like pods 

which ‘explode’ when ripe. Common caragana is good 

mainly for tall hedges or windbreaks. Fern leaf varieties 

grow in an upright, weeping fashion with very narrow 

light green leaves. Globe and pygmy caraganas are 

compact, upright, and spreading and occasionally are 

grafted to upright forms for specimen or accent shrubs. 

Also grafted are Walker’s Weeping Caraganas which 

are formal, fine textured, and highly weeping. Very 

alkaline tolerant. 

Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster spp.) 

These vigorously growing, upright, and spreading 

shrubs are dense and full in their growth habit. The 

glossy, dark green leaves form right to the base of the 

plant and turn a bright orange-red color in the early fall 

in Peking Cotoneasters. Purple-black berries follow the 

inconspicuous white flowers. These very hardy shrubs 

are widely used as a hedge plant. European Cotoneasters 

have dark green leaves with wooly undersides and 

duller fall color but do well in shadier locations. 

Dogwood (Cornus spp.) 

The dogwood varieties that do well in Southern Alberta 

are grown primarily for foliage in the summer and as a 

winter color specimen due to their attractive bark. Most 

grow in rounded upright fashion with inconspicuous 

flowers followed by colored berries in fall. Variegated 

forms, those bearing leaves with white or yellow mixed 

with green, are Golden Variegated, Siberian Variegated, 

and Silver-Leafed. Dogwood good for winter color 

are Isanti, Kesselring, Red Osier, and Yellow-Twigged. 

Varieties that have prominent berries are Isanti, Red 

Osier, and Siberian Coral. 

Double Flowering Plum (Prunus triloba ‘Multiplex’) 

These attractive shrubs grow in an upright spreading 

fashion. The three-lobed leaves are dark green 

and create a dense, full shrub. The fully double, pale 

pink flowers are produced in clusters along the stems 

before the leaves form in the spring. These shrubs 

are one of the most popular large flowering shrubs 

available. These shrubs will adapt to shady spots 

but flower and grow best in bright, sunny locations. 

(Pictured above) 

Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.) 

These coarse textured shrubs grow in an upright balllike 

fashion. The large oval leaves are green in color. 

Annabelle Hydrangea bears large, flat clusters of white 

flowers that are showy and long lasting. Pee Gee Hydrangeas 

are more open in form and produces pinkish 

flowers in large, pyramidal clusters. Hydrangea Endless 

Summer, is the first Hydrangea macrophylla that 

blooms on both old and new wood, for large colorful 

flower mops, virtually all season long. Endless Summer 

can flower repeatedly on new wood, so you can 

be confident that regardless of whether the plant dies 

back to the crown or is trimmed at the wrong time, you’ll 

still get wonderful flowers that grow all season. Plant 

hydrangea in heavy soil in shady or partially shady, 

sheltered locations. 

Potentilla (Potentilla spp.) 

These fine textured shrubs grow in an upright, compact, 

naturally rounded form. The compound leaves 

are a light green color. The bright single yellow, white, 

pink, or red flowers vary in shade and intensity depending 

on the variety. These hardy native shrubs 

are popular since they produce flowers throughout 

the growing season. Plant potentillas in a sunny or 

partially shaded location. Varieties commonly available 

are Abbotswood, Coronation Triumph, Goldfinger, Pink 

Beauty, and Red Robin. 

Spirea (Spiraea spp.) 

There are a wide variety of these popular accent 

shrubs. Most grow in a low, mounding or spreading 

fashion. Additionally, many produce beautiful flowers 

in the early summer. Bridal Wreath spirea feature white 

blossoms cascading along arched branches. Frobelli 

and Anthony Waterer both sport light red flowers in 

flat-topped clusters. Goldmound spireas have coarsely 

toothed leaves in a lime-green color with small lightpink 

flowers. Please see our shrub tables for further 

varieties. Plant in sun or partial sun. 


11


11 

SHrUBS yoUr qUeStionS 

Q: Why do my lilacs only have a few flowers each 

year? I water, fertilize, and shape them every year, 

and the foliage looks nice and healthy. 

A:Lilacs are often pruned too late, and this will remove 

the flower buds for next years crop of flowers. The 

proper time to prune lilacs, forsythia, double flowering 

plum, nanking cherries, and any other shrubs that 

flower on old wood is right after flowering. You do this 

because these shrubs set the next years flower buds 

soon after they are finished flowering. 

Q: What are the best shrubs to use for a hedge 

between houses? 

A: The most consistent and true hedge plant in the 

Calgary area is the cotoneaster. It’s not only very dense 

it will also provide a fall colour, and a great screen for 

a hedge up to 6-7’. If you are looking for something 

taller caragana is the best shrub to use for hedges 7’or 

more. You can also use most other types of shrubs, 

but they will not give you a manicured look like 

cotoneasters. 

Q: I have a bad time with powdery mildew on my 

shrubs... 

A: This is a problem for many gardeners, especially for 

plants that get more shade. The best ways to combat 

this problem is to maintain proper pruning practices 

to allow more air movement and sunlight within and 

between plants. Watering is also best done in the 

morning to ensure that leaves do not stay wet for a 

long period of time. It is best if possible to keep the 

water off the leaves altogether. Most fungicides do 

work if applied in the early stages of the disease. If 

the problem becomes out of control pruning of infected 

leaves is useful. 

Q: I enjoy growing and harvesting fruit. What can I grow 

other than raspberries, strawberries, and saskatoon 

berries? 

A: There are many bush fruits that do quite well in our area. 

These include gooseberry, currant, sour cherry, nanking 

cherry, cranberry, and grape. Plant in well-drained rich 

clay loam and mulch with grass clippings, bark chips, 

or chopped straw to conserve moisture and maintain a 

cool soil temperature. Grapes should be planted in a very 

sheltered south-facing location in order for them to get the 

necessary sunlight and make it through the winter. Ensure 

that your plants are well watered before going into winter 

as this will help them survive the cold weather. 

Q: Do plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons, and 

hydrangeas grow in this area? 

A: Yes they do grow in this area, however they cannot just 

be planted and left alone as many of the hardier plants 

such as potentilla. Due to our extreme low and fluctuating 

temperatures in winter these plants must be protected. 

Take advantage of the insulating properties of snow by 

planting them in an area of your garden that will get a lot of 

snow. If this is not feasible mulch with dry leaves or straw 

and always water before winter to help with cold weather 

survival. East exposure is the best location for these plants 

if you are going to try them. That protects them from the 

southwest chinook winds or the burning north winds in 

the winter.

SHrUBS PiCtUreS 

Fruit on American Cranberry Azalea Wayfaring Tree 

Cranberry Dwarf American Forsythia 

Nanking Cherry 

Waterton Mockorange 

Abbotswood Potentilla 

Goldflame Spirea 


11


116 

cherry bomb 

emerald carousel ruby carousel golden nugget rose glow sunsation 

SHrUBS BArBerry 

Berberis thunbergii 

After a 30-year absence Barberry has finally returned 

to Canada! This beautiful plant makes an excellent 

low hedge, barrier planting, single shrub accent, or 

contrast plant. When first planted water well until 

the shrub is well established. Do not let barberries 

dry out in the first few weeks following transplanting. 

Once the barberry is established begin to water as 

required. 

Cherry Bomb 

• compact branches with deep crimsonfoliage 

• bright red berries in fall and winter 

• grows approximately 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide 

Sunsation 

• compact dwarf golden barberry 

• good for colour contrast 

• keep out of full sun - morning or filtered sun only 

• grows approximately 3-4 feet tall and wide 

Rose Glow 

• graceful arching branch rose-red glow over mottled white and 

green spring foliage 

• bright red berries in fall and winter 

• grow approximately 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide 

Golden Nugget 

• compact dwarf golden barberry 

• keep out of full sun - filtered or morning sunlight only 

• grows approximately 12 inches tall and 18 inches wide 

Ruby Carousel 

• excellent hedge, accent or barrier plant with thorny stems 

• superb red colour and uniform habit 

• prefers moist, well-drained soil 

• grows approximately 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide 

Emerald Carousel 

• excellent hedge, accent or barrier plant with arching thorny stems 

• The foliage is green but turns dark red to purple in the fall 

• prefers moist, well-drained soil 

• grows approximately 5 feet tall and 5 feet wide

SHrUBS all 

Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage 

Color 

Flower 

Color 

Features 

shrubs listed subject to seasonal 


AMUR MAPLE - RED RHAPSODY 15 ft 15 ft » 3 Green Red Brilliant red fall colour; very hardy 

Acer ginalla 'Red Rhapsody' 5m 5m Small, fragrant yellowish flowers in spring 

ARROWOOD 7 ft. 5 ft. » 4 Green White Showy umbrella-shaped flower clusters in 

Viburnum dentatum 2 m. 1.5 m. spring. Attractive autumn red leaf color. 

ASHLEAF or FALSE SPIREA 7 ft. 7 ft. 2 Green Cream Spreading shrub which will grow in any 

Sorbaria sorbifolia 2 m. 2 m. White landscape. Lacy foliage produces plumes of 

flowers. 

AZALEA 3 ft. 3 ft. » Plant in sheltered area in moist peaty soil 

Rhododendron Lights Varieties 1 m. 1 m. 

LEMON LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Red/OR Red-orange flowers with a delicate fragrance 

GOLDEN LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Gold Gold double flower clusters in late spring. 

MANDARIN LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Orange Orange double flower clusters in late spring. 

ORCHID LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Purple Purple double flower clusters in late spring. 

ROSY LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Pink Pink double flower clusters in late spring. 

WHITE LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green White White double flower clusters in late spring. 

BARBERRY Berberis thunbergii 

BURGUNDY CAROUSEL 3'/1m 3'/1m » 4 Purple Yellow Spreadng variety with drooping foliage 

CHERRY BOMB 3'/1m 3'/1m » 4 Red/Purp Yellow Compact variety; slow growing 

EMERALD CAROUSEL 5'/1.6m 5'/1.6m » 4 Green Yellow Arching foliage; red berries; bright fall color 

GOLDEN NUGGET 1'/0.3m 1.5'/0.5m » 4 Gold Yellow Compact, slow-growing; orange fall cololr 

ROSE GLOW 4'/1.3m 4'/1.3m » 4 Rose-pink Yellow Mottled rose-pink foliage matures deep red-purple 

ROYAL BURGUNDY 3'/1m 3'/1m » 4 Purple Yellow Dwarf rounded form; black-red in fall 

Sun 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

RUBY CAROUSEL 3'/1m 3'/1m » 4 Rose-pink Yellow Mottled rose-pink foliage matures deep red-purple 

SUNSATION 3'/1m 3'/1m » 4 Gold Yellow Compact; new growth green-gold matures gold 

BLUEBERRIES - see our bush fruit section 

BROOM 

DWARF -Genista lydia 2'/0.6m 3'/1m 4 Green Yellow Fine textured sprawling shrub. Flowers in June. 

ROYAL GOLD - Genista tinctoria 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Yellow Flowers in tall conical panicles on new growth 

BUFFALOBERRY - RUSSET 10 ft 7 ft 2 Green Yellow Hardy native, nitrogen-fixing shrub; drought 

Sheperdia canadensis 3m 2m tolerant. Sour yellow-orange fruit popular with 

birds 

BUFFALOBERRY-SILVER 10 ft. 7 ft. 2 Silver Yellow Hardy native, drought resistant, spiny shrub. 

Sheperdia argentea 3 m. 2 m. Red berries on female plants. 

BURNING BUSH - DWARF WINGED 6 ft. 10 ft. » 4 Green Flaming red fall color 

Euonymous alata compacta 2 m. 3 m. Excellent for small shrub beds and hedges 

BURNING BUSH -TURKESTAN 1.5 ft. 3 ft. » 2 Green Pink Low sprawling shrub with linear leaves. 

Euonymus nanus 'Turkestanica' 0.5 m. 1 m. Rose fall foliage color appears to be burning. 

CARAGANA » 2 Green Yellow Siberian pea-shrub. Drought tolerant. 

Caragana arborescens var. Excellent hedge, shelterbelt or windbreak. 

COMMON 13'/4m 7'/2m 2 

FERNLEAF - 'Lorbergii' 13'/4m 10'/3m 2 Green Yellow Lacy leaves on this graceful plant. 

SUTHERLAND 13'/4m 5'/1.5m 2 Green Yellow Tall, columnar, accent plant. 

WALKER'S WEEPING 5'/1.5m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Fine lacy foliage hangs from weeping branches. 

WEEPING - 'Pendula' 7'/2m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Weeping, grafted variety with oval leaflets. 

CARAGANA-GLOBE 3 ft. 3 ft. » 2 Green Yellow Globe-shaped shrub that requires no pruning. 

Caragana frutex 'Globosa' 1 m. 1 m. One of the woody plants of yr. in 1996, 97 & 98. 

CARAGANA-PYGMY 3 ft. 5 ft. » 2 Green Yellow Spiny shrub with spring flowers. 

Caragana pygmaea 1 m. 1.5 m. Useful armed hedge plant for dry area. 

CHERRY - EVANS 12'/4m 9'/3m 3 Green White Excellent fruiting type; fruit bright red 

Prunus cerasus Rose Cherry a dark brown variety also available. 

CHERRY-MONGOLIAN 3 ft. 3 ft. 3 Green White White flowers and glossy green leaves. 

Prunus fruticosa 1 m. 1 m. Red sour cherries for jelly. 

CHERRY-NANKING 10 ft. 7 ft. 2 Green Light Red edible cherries are great for jelly. 

Prunus tomentosa 3 m. 2 m. Pink Our most popular large flowering shrub. 


11


11 

SHrUBS 


Color 

Flower 

Color 

all shrubs listed subject to seasonal 


Sun 

Features 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

CHERRY - NANKING 'Alba' 10 ft 7 ft 2 Green Light White-fruiting variety 

Prunus tomentosa 'Alba' 3 m 2 m pink Fruit excellent for jelly; popular with birds 

CHERRY - NANKING 'Lee's Black' 10 ft 7 ft 2 Green light Black-fruiting variety 

Prunus tomentosa 'Lee's Black' 3 m 2m pink Good for jellies; popular with birds 

CHERRY PRINSEPIA 5 ft. 3 ft. 2 Green Yellow Spiny hardy shrub for the Prairies with red fruit. 

Prinsepia sinensis 1.5 m. 1 m. Useful as an armed barrier plant. 

CHERRY-WESTERN SAND 3 ft. 3 ft. 3 Green White Olive-green leaves and black sour cherries. 

Prunus besseyi 1 m. 1 m. Sprawling shrub is used as late plum pollinator. 

CHOKECHERRY - AUTMUN MAGIC 5 ft. 3 ft. 3 Green White Abundant edible black cherrries attract birds in fall 

Aronia melanocarpa 1.5 m. 1 m. Red fall color 

COTONEASTER 

HEDGE OR PEKING - acutifolia 7'/2m 5'/1.5m 2 Green pink Hedge plant; leaves turn red in fall, very popular 

CENTENNIAL - integerrimus 8'/2.5m 8'/2.5m » 3 Green pink Arching branches; prefers moist areas 

CRANBERRY - Viburnum opulus varieties 

COMPACT EUROPEAN 8'/2.5m 8'/2.5m » 2 Green White Standard cultivar; red fruit; Densely flower & fruit 

EUROPEAN DWARF 2'/.6m 2'/.6m » 3 Green Sterile Dwarf shrub for shaded, moist area; purple fall 

color 

CRANBERRY - Viburnum trilobum varieties Suitable for shaded moist areas. 

AMERICAN HIGHBUSH 10'/3m 7'/2m » 2 Green White Green lobed leaves turn red in the fall. 

BAILEY COMPACT 5'/1.5m 2'/1m » 2 Green White Compact shrub with colorful red fall foliage. 

DWARF AMERICAN 3'/1m 3'/1m » 2 Green White Edible red berries in summer; red fall foliage 

CRANBERRY - WENTWORTH 10 ft. 7 ft. » 3 Green White Prolific bloomer and heavy fruit producer 

Viburnum spp. 3 m. 2 m. Red fall color 

CURRANT-ALPINE 5 ft. 5 ft. » 2 Green Green Small green flowers and lobed leaves. 

Ribes alpinum 1.5 m. 1.5 m. Used for mass planting. 

CURRANT- BUSH FRUIT VARIETIES - see our bush fruit section 

CURRANT-GOLDEN 5 ft. 5 ft. » 3 Green Gold- Fragrant flowers in spring; good for hedging 

Ribes aureum 1.5 m. 1 m. Yellow Dark berries are good for jelly. 

DOGWOOD - Cornus alba varieties 

BUD'S YELLOW 7'/2m 7'/2m » 3 Green wht/ylw Beautiful yellow twigs for winter colour 

GOLDEN VARIEGATED - 'Gouchaultii' 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Green White Variegated green and gold leaves on red stems. 

GREY 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Green White Smooth light-grey bark; moist, well-drained soil 

IVORY HALO 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Green White Bright red stems and silver variegated leaves 

KESSELRING 5'/1.5m 5'/1.5m » 3 Green White Deep purple stems are outstanding in winter. 

PRAIRIE FIRE 6'/2m 4'/1.6m » 2 Gold White Beautiful red foliage in fall. 

SIBERIAN 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Green White Vivid red stems in winter; white berries attract birds 

SIBERIAN VARIEGATED 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Grn/Wht White Foliage has red fall color. Bluish berries. 

SILVER VARIEGATED 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Grn/Wht White Very popular foliage plant for color contrast. 

DOGWOOD - Cornus sericea varieties 

ISANTI 3'/1m 3'/1m » 3 Green White Compact selection of Red Osier dogwood. 

KELSEY 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m » 3 Green White Dwarf selection of Red Osier dogwood. 

RED OSIER 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Green White Red stems for winter color; shrub spreads by 

stolons. 

ELDER 

BLACK BEAUTY 6'/2m 6'/2m 4 Black Pink Striking new variety - black foliage & pink blooms! 

BLACK LACE 7’/2m 6’/2m 4 Black Pink Japanese Maple-like leaves, New Product! 

GOLDEN 7'/2m 5'/1.5m 3 Gold White Golden yellow foliage color in summer and fall. 

GOLDEN PLUME- 'Plumosa Aurea' 7'/2m 5'/1.5m 3 Gold Cream Golden yellow, deeply serrated leaves. 

GUINCHO PURPLE 10'/3m 7'/2m 3 purple Cream Foliage is especially striking when grown in full sun 

MADONNA 10'/3m 7'/2m 3 white and Cream Compact plant with white and dark green foliage 

RED 10'/3m 7'/2m 3 Green Cream Serrated green leaflets; fruit used for jelly/wine. 

SUTHERLAND CUTLEAF 7'/2m 7'/2m 3 Golden Cream Golden yellow dissected leaves; good contrast 

FORSYTHIA-NORTHERN GOLD 5 ft. 3 ft. » 3 Green Yellow Profusion of yellow flowers early in spring. 

Forsythia ovata 'Northern Gold' 1.5 m. 1 m.

SHrUBS 


Color 

GOOSEBERRY- see our bush fruit section 

Flower 

Color 



Sun 

Features 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

HONEYSUCKLE 

ALBERT REGAL 3'/1m 3'/1m 3 Blu/Grn Purple Fragrant flowers then blue berries; narrow leaves 

ARNOLD RED 10'/3m 5'/1.5m » 3 Green Dark Red Dark red fruit follow dark red fragrant flowers. 

SWEETBERRY 5'/1.5m 3'/1m 3 Green White Compact shrub with shredding bark; fruit edible. 

DWARF BUSH - Diervilla lonicera 

HYDRANGEA 

3'/1m 3'/1m » 3 Green Yellow Compact native North American shrub 

ANNABELLE 3'/1m 3'/1m » 3-4 Green White Large, white, flat flower clusters; shady moist area 

BLUSHING BRIDE 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 4-5 Green White Blooms fade to pink/blue as they age 

ENDLESS SUMMER 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 3-4 Green Blue/Pink Blooms all summer, good cutflower 

PEE GEE 3'/1m 3'/1m » 3-4 Green Lt/Pink Showy, large, pinkish pyramidal flower clusters. 

TARDIVA 

MOCKORANGE - Philadelphus spp. 

7'/2m 7'/2m » 3-4 Green Lt/Pink Blooms later than other panicle hydrangeas 

GALAHAD 5'/1.5m 5'/1.5m » 4 Dk Grn White Fragrant single blooms; rounded form 

MINIATURE SNOWFLAKE 3'/1m 3'/1m » 4 Green White Fragrant double blooms; compact rounded form. 

MINNESOTA SNOWFLAKE 5'/1.5m 3'/1m » 3 Green White Fragrant flowering shrub; Double white in summer. 

SNOWBELLE 4'/1.3m 4'/1.3m 4 Green White Fragrant double white blooms; very adaptable. 

VIRGINAL 8'/3m 4'/1.5m » 4 Green White Double, white very fragrant flowers; needs pruning 

WATERTON 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 2 Green White Hardy Mockorange from Waterton Park in AB. 

NANNYBERRY 10 ft. 7 ft. » 3 Green White Glossy green foliage turns bright red in fall. 

Viburnum lentago 

NINEBARK - Physocarpus spp. 

3 m. 2 m. Flowers turn into clusters of black berries. 

DART'S GOLD 3'/1m 3'/1m 3 Golden White Deep pink fruit in late summer; Compact shrub 

DIABOLO 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Purple White Flowers in summer; Strong, upright growth. 

GOLDEN 5'/1.5m 3'/1m 3 Golden White Golden yellow colorful foliage. 

NUGGET 5'/1.5m 4/1.3m 3 Golden White Foliage turns lime green as season progresses 

SUMMER WINE 4'/1.3m 6'/1.6m 3 Bronze White New compact form;good for contrast w/gold shrub 

PLUM-DOUBLE FLOWERING 7 ft. 5 ft. 3 Green Pink Emergence of flowers signifies spring arrival. 

Prunus triloba 'Multiplex' 

POTENTILLA 

2 m. 1.5 m. Spectacular pink double flowers before leaves. 

ABBOTSWOOD 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green White Most popular white flowering potentilla. 

CORONATION TRIUMPH 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Longest blooming period of all potentilla. 

GOLD DROP 2'/0.6m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Larger yellow flowers on this compact shrub. 

GOLDFINGER 5'/1.5m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Popular and largest yellow flowering potentilla. 

GOLD STAR 2'/0.6m 3'/1m 2 Green Golden Golden yellow flowers on this dwarf shrub. 

JACKMAN 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Very durable; good for xeriscaping 

KATHERINE DYKES 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Creamy yellow flowers on this old standby. 

MANGO TANGO 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Golden Golden yellow blooms; New variety! 

MOONLIGHT 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Light yellow flowers with woolly foliage. 

ORANGE WHISPER 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Orange Orange flowers on this uniform mounded shrub. 

PINK BEAUTY 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Pink Double pink flowers on this mounding shrub. 

PINK QUEEN 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Pink Very light pink flowers 

RED ACE 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m 3 Green Red Red-yellow flowers on this compact shrub. 

RED ROBIN 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m 3 Green Red- Hardier selection of Red Ace retains color better. 

SNOWBIRD 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m 3 Green White 80% of the flowers double; hardy, compact 

SNOWFLAKE 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green White Beautiful white blooms 

SUNSET 2'/0.6m 3'/1m 2 Green Orange Brick orange flowers simulate sunset. 

SUTTER'S GOLD 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m 3 Green Yellow Large creamy yellow flowers 

TANGERINE 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Amber Amber flowers on this spreading shrub. 

YELLOW BIRD 2'/0.6m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Bright yellow flowers on this compact shrub. 

YELLOW GEM 1.5'/0.5m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Bright yellow flowers on this spreading shrub. 

RASPBERRY - please see our bush fruit section 

RHODODENDRON 

ALBUM 3'/1m 3'/1m » 3 Evergreen White White flowers early spring; Very hardy 


11


120 

SHrUBS 


Color 

Flower 

Color 



Sun 

Features 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

BOURSALT 3'/1m 3'/1m » 3 Evergreen Purple light purple flower in early spring; Compact growth 

CLOUDLAND 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m » 4 Evergreen Purple Funnel-shaped blooms; tiny, aromatic leaves 

RHODODENDRON - FINNISH VAR. 5'/1.5m 5'/1.5m » 3 Evergreen varies Very hardy Finnish cultivars 

'Haaga' pink Round crowns; upright habit 

'Hellikki' purple purple-red flowers fade; buds covered in down 

'Helsinki University' pink upright growth habit; red-tinged new growth 

'Mikkeli' white dark-green foliage; blooms midsummer 

''Peter Tigerstedt' white flowers have dark patches 

'Pohjola's Daughter' pink violet-red flower buds; white, blotched flowers 

NORTHERN STARBURST 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4-5 Evergreen Pink Ruffled blooms with yellowish center 

PJM 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Evergreen Pink Trumpet shaped blooms early in spring; hardiest 

PJM COMPACT 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Evergreen Pink Compact version of above plant; Likes acidic soil. 

NOVA ZEMBLA 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 4 Evergreen Lavender Very hardy variety with lavender -red blooms 

RAMAPO 2’/0.6m 2’/0.6m » 4-5 Evergreen Blue Pale violet-blue flowers;New growth is blue-green 

ROSEUM 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4-5 Evergreen Pink Rosy-lilac flowers fade to pink;large green leaves 

ROSE DAPHNE - Daphne cneorum 

CAROL MACKI 2’/0.6m 3’/1m » 4 Green/cream Pink Beautiful variegated leaves; Excellent for rock 

gardens 

ROSE DAPHNE 1’/0.3m 2’/0.6m » 4 Evergreen Pink Flowers early spring; good for areas insulated by 

snow. 

RUSSIAN ALMOND 5 ft. 5 ft. 3 Green Pink Plum-like, fuzzy almonds. 

Prunus tenella 1.5 m. 1.5 m. Small shrub for mass planting. 

RUSSIAN OLIVE 16 ft. 13 ft. 3-4 Silver Yellow Outstanding silvery foliage and fragrant flowers. 

Eleagnus angustifolia 5 m. 4 m. Large multi-stemmed shrub small specimen tree. 

SALTBUSH (Russian Salt Tree) 6’/2m 6’/2m 3 silver-grey purple- Deep penetrating roots; tolerates saline soils 

Halimodendron halodendron white Reproduces from seeds and from roots. 

SASKATOON - see our bush fruit section 

SANDCHERRY - PURPLE-LEAF 7 ft. 5 ft. 3 Purple Light Spectacular purple foliage on this accent plant. 

Prunus cistena 2 m. 1.5 m. Pink Most popular shrub for color contrast. 

SEA BUCKTHORN 13 ft. 10 ft. 2 Silver Yellow Thorny shrub with silver linear leaves,orange 

Hippophae rhamnoides 4 m. 3 m. berries. Drought tolerant and hardier than Russian 

olive. 

SNOWBALL 7 ft. 5 ft. » 3 Green White Showy snowball-shaped flower clusters in spring. 

Viburnum opulus roseum/sterilis 2 m. 1.5 m. Suitable shrub for shaded moist area. 

SNOWBERRY 3 ft. 3 ft. » 2 Green Pink Native hardy, small shrub. 

Symphoricarpos albus 1 m. 1 m. White berries in winter attract wildlife. 

SPINDLE TREE 10’/3m 10’/3m » 4 Green Yellow Green branches have corky strips like Burning 

Euonymous europaeus Green Bush. Red fall color; flower clusters; showy orange 

seeds 

SPIRAEA 

ANTHONY WATERER 2’/0.6m. 3’/1m » 3 Green Pink Low growing with long blooming season 

BILLARDI TRIUMPHANS 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 3 Green Pink Large deep-pink flower spikes; Summer blooming 

BRIDAL WREATH 7’/2m. 5’/1.5m » 3 Green White Arching branches veiled with white flowers in June. 

CRISPA 2’/0.6m 2.5’/0.8m » 3 Grn-Brnz Pink Deeply serated, crinkled leaves;continous blooms 

DART’S RED 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green Red Similar to Anthony Waterer but with darker blooms 

FAIRY QUEEN 2’/0.6m 2’/0.6m » 3 Green White Low sprawling shrub with white flowers in June. 

FLOWERING CHOICE 1’/30cm 1’/30cm » 3 Green Pink Similar to Little Princess but smaller with larger 

flowers 

FROEBELLII 3’/1m 3’/1m » 2 Green Pink Similar to Anthony Waterer but hardier and taller. 

GARLAND 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green White Spring blooms; garlands of flowers; fine-textured 

foliage 

GOLDEN CARPET 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green Tri-color White, pink, and red flowers on this compact shrub 

GREEN CARPET 8”/20cm 1’/30cm » 3 Green Pink Foliage turns red-purple in the fall 

GOLDFLAME 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Gold Pink Compact shrub for color contrast in the landscape. 

GOLDMOUND 2’/0.6m 3’/1m » 3-4 Gold Pink Compact substitute for Goldflame spirea.

SHrUBS 


Color 

Flower 

Color 



Sun 

Features 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

GUMBALL 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green Pink Compact form of Froebellii; very adaptable 

HALWARD’S SILVER 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green White Compact selection of nipponica species 

KOREAN 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green White Mounding shrub covered with blooms 

LITTLE PRINCESS 2’/0.6m 3’/1m » 4 Green Pink Dwarf compact mound shape; Foliage turns dark 

red in fall. 

MAGIC CARPET 1’/30 cm 3’/1m » 4 Gold, Red Pink Forms a miniature compact mound 

MINI SUNGLO 1’/30 cm 2’/0.6cm » 3 Gold Pink Dense dwarf similar to Goldmound 

NEON FLASH 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green Pink Similar to Anthony Waterer with darker blooms 

RENAISSANCE 4’/1.3m 4’/1.3m » 3 Green White Graceful arching display of white flowers in spring 

SHIROBANA 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green Pnk/Wht Serrated lacy foliage with pink, red&white flowers. 

SNOWMOUND 4’/1.3m 4’/1.3m » 3 Green White Small, blue-green leaves; fine white flowers in 

mid-summer 

SNOWHITE 5’/1.5m 3’/1m » 2 Green Pink Abundant flowers along arching branches in June. 

SPARKLING CARPET 10”/25cm16”/40cm » 3 Lime/Gold Pink Fine spreading shrub; nice fall color; few blooms 

THOR 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green White Deep green, leaves different from other spiraeas 

THREE-LOBED 3’/1m 3’/1m » 2 Green White Graceful arching branches; three-lobed leaves 

WHITE SWAN 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green White Ball-shaped shrub with pure white flowers in June. 

SUMAC - Rhus spp. 

CUTLEAF 7’/2m. 7’/2m. 3 Green Yellow Bright fall coloration; flower panicles last all winter 

CUTLEAF SMOOTH 7’/2m. 7’/2m. 3 Green Yellow Smooth bark and divided, lacy leaves;Red fallfruit. 

GRO-LOW 1’/ 0.6m 7’/2m » 4 Green Yellow Stems aromatic when bruised 

THREE-LEAF 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m 3 Green Yellow Shiny green, oak leaf-shaped foliage; orange-red 

berry 

STAGHORN 10’/3m 5’/1.5m 3 Green Green Fern-like foliage. Red fall fruit and foliage. 

Xeriscape plant. 

TIGER EYES 7’/2m. 7’/2m. 4 Yellow White Golden cutleaf variety; new for 2005. 

WAYFARING TREE 7 ft. 7 ft. » 3 Gray- White Olive-green, leathery leaves. 

Viburnum lantana 2 m. 2 m. Green Fruit turns from red to black. 

WAYFARING TREE - MOHICAN 5 ft. 5 ft. » 3 Gray- White Olive-green, leathery leaves. Red to black fruit. 

Viburnum lantana ‘Mohican’ 1.5 m. 1.5 m. Green Compact selection of Wayfaring Tree. 

WEIGELA - Weigela florida 

ALEXANDRIA/WINE & ROSES 4’/1.3m 4’/1.3m » 4 Purple Pink new variety; Leaves are a deep wine purple 

CENTENNIAL 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 3 Green Pink Pink tubular flowers in June, reblooms again later. 

MINUET 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green Pink/Red Rose tubular flowers in June/reblooms again later. 

RED PRINCE 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 4 Green Red Red tubular flowers throughout the summer. 

RUBY QUEEN 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 reddish Pink Reddish-burgundy foliage; very popular in Europe 

WILLOW - Salix spp. 

ARCTIC 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Gray-Grn Mound-shaped with linear leaves and purple 

stems. 

BEBB 10’/3m 10’/3m 3 Gray-Grn Catkins Large multi-stemmed shrub or small tree 

BLUE FOX 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Bluish- Upright globe-shaped shrub; Colorful blue-gray 

foliage. 

COYOTE 12’/4m 12’/4m » 3 Blue-gray Catkins Good in moist areas; good for riverside planting 

CREEPING 2’/0.6m 6’/2m » 3 Green Catkins Spreading form good for ground cover 

HAKURA NISHIKI 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Pnk/Wht Tricolor pink, white and green leaves. 

FLAME 16’/5m. 10’/3m » 3 Green Flaming red-orange bark for winter color. 

POLAR BEAR 16’/5m. 6’/2m » 2 Green Catkins Hairy silvery blue foliage, hardy variety. 

PUSSY WILLOW - FRENCH 16’/5m 10’/3m » 2 Green Catkins Silvery catkins appear in spring; llikes moist areas 

SILVER CREEPING 2’/0.6m 7’/2m » 3 Silver Catkins Creeping shrub with silver-grey foliage 

YELLOW 12’/4m 12’/4m » 2 Green Catkins Native species; good for wet areas 

WOLF WILLOW 7 ft. 7 ft. 2 Silver Yellow Hardy, native shrub with silvery foliage. 

Elaeagnus commutata 2 m. 2 m. Scented spring flowers. Drought tolerant. 


121

LArGe CALiPer treeS 

AVAiLABLe in Store noW 

Located west creek side of the store.

SmALL frUit all 

Size 

Names Fruit Color Height/ Sun/ Fruit Features/Uses 

Spread Shade 

BLUEBERRIES: sun/part shade 

BLUECROP dark blue 4/4ft most widely planted blueberry on earth 

BLUEJAY medium blue 4/4ft large, firm berries with moderate to high yield 

BLUERAY powder blue 4/4ft mid-season, large berries 

CHIPPEWA light blue 4/4ft medium, very light blue, mid-season berries 

NORTHBLUE dark blue 3/3 ft. dark blue, sweet flavored fruit 

NORTHCOUNTRY sky blue 3/3 ft. mild, sweet, sky blue fruit 

NORTHLAND dark blue 4/4 ft. wild berry tasting, dark blue fruit 

NORTHSKY sky blue 2/2 ft. hardiest blueberry with sweet, sky blue fruit 

PATRIOT medium blue 3/3ft large berries with high yield, excellent flavour 

POLARIS light blue 3/3ft best ripening in northern gardens; new variety 

CHERRIES: full sun 

MONGOLIAN red 3/3 ft. sun sour cherries for jelly 

NANKING red 10/10 ft. sun edible cherries great for jelly 

CRANBERRY: please see our shrub section 

small fruit listed subject to seasonal 


CURRANTS: sun/partshade 

BLACK black 3/3 ft. abundant black fruit for preserves 

GOLDEN gold 5/5 ft. ornamental golden fragrant flowers 

JOSTA dark red 6/3 ft. cross between black currant and gooseberry 

RED LAKE red 3/3 ft. plentiful fruit produced for jelly 

WHITE white 3/3 ft. mild flavored fruit for preserves 

GOOSEBERRIES: sun/part shade 

HINNONMAEKI RED red 3/3 ft. tart red, juicy fruit for preserves 

HINNONMAEKI YELLOW green-gold 3/3 ft. tart green, juicy fruit for preserves 

PIXWELL green 3/3 ft. productive fruit producer for preserves 

GRAPES: sun or part shade 

CANADICE red red seedless early variety for all uses 

CONCORD blue popular blue variety used for fresh grape juice 

INTERLAKEN green golden green seedless grapes to eat fresh 

STEUBEN purple bluish-purple fruit used for jelly, juice or wine 

VALIANT blue hardiest grape for the prairies used for jelly 

RASPBERRIES: full sun 

BLACK JEWEL dark purple 5/5 ft. hardy, heavy producer of purple, juicy fruit 

BOYNE RED red 5/5 ft. hardy, heavy producer of sweet red berries 

CHESTER black 5/5 vigorous, hardy variety; shiny black fruit 

HERITAGE RED red 5/5 ft. everbearing producer in September 

MEEKER red 5/5ft summer-bearing; medium to large berries 

RED KILLARNEY red 5/5ft summer-bearing; deep red sweet fruit 

SK RED MAMMOTH red 5/5 ft. hardy, very sweet red berry new from the UofS 

SK RED BOUNTY red 5/5 ft. hardy, large red berry new from UofS 

YELLOW-FALL GOLD gold-yellow 5/5 ft. new everbearing variety with unique gold fruit 

SASKATOONS: full sun 

ALTAGLOW white 10/5 ft. new variety with unique white fruit 

HONEYWOOD purple 7/5 ft. later large fruit for eating fresh or pies 

NORTHLINE purple 7/5 ft. productive fruit producer to eat fresh or pies 

PEMBINA purple 10/7 ft. well-known variety with large fruit to eat 

REGENT purple 7/5 ft sweet fruit is good for eating fresh or pies 

SMOKEY purple 10/7 ft. high yielding variety with mild sweet fruit 

THEISSEN purple 10/5 ft. large fruit is good for eating fresh or pies 


12


12 

LiLAC PHotoS 

Golden Acre Is Proud to be able to Supply you with over 25 varieties of Lilacs including 

the following sub-categorys: French Hybrid, Hyacinth, Preston, and Treeform. 

For best results plant in a full sun area, fertilize regularly, dead-head old blooms, and don’t 

prune till just after flowering. This should ensure lots of blooms,and lots of enjoyment. 

Aucuba Leaf Congo Dark Knight 

Dwarf Korean 

Forrest K. Smith 

Miss Kim Montainge 

President Grevy 

Ludwig Spaeth 

President Lincoln 

Madame Lemoine 

Sarah Sands 

Michael Buchner 

Persian Pink French Hybrid 

Victor Lemoine

LiLACS all 

lilacs listed subject to seasonal 


Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage Flower Features/Uses 

Color Color 

LILAC - BEAUTY OF MOSCOW 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Pink Very heavy bloomer; double pink flowers 

Syringa sp. 3m. 2 m. part shade Good screening plant or feature 

LILAC-COMMON 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Purple Old fashioned favorite with fragrant flowers. 

Syringa vulgaris 3 m. 2 m. part shade Has suckering habit but good windbreaks. 

LILAC - CONGO 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Reddish Single, dark red flowers 

Syringa sp. 3 m. 2 m. part shade 

LILAC-DWARF KOREAN 3 ft. 3 ft. sun or 3 Green Lavender Miniature leaves and flowers good for small 

Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’ 1 m. 1 m. part shade yards. 

LILAC - MISS ELLEN WILLMOTT 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green White Double white flowers 

Syringa sp. 3 m. 2 m. part shade 

LILAC-FRENCH-CHARM 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Deep Grafted roots to control suckering. 

Syringa vulgaris ‘Charm’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Pink Charming single pink fragrant flowers. 

LILAC-FRENCH-CHARLES JOLY 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Reddish Grafted roots to control suckering. 

Syringa vulgaris ‘Charles Joly’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Purple Reddish purple, double fragrant flowers. 

LILAC-FRENCH-KATHY HAVEMEYER 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Bluish- Grafted roots to control suckering. 

Syringa vulgaris ‘Katherine Havemeyer’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Pink Pink double fragrant flowers. 

LILAC-FRENCH-LUDWIG SPAETH 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Reddish Grafted roots to control suckering. 

Syringa vulgaris ‘Ludwig Spaeth’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Purple Purple single fragrant flowers. 

LILAC-FRENCH-MADAME LEMOINE 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green White Grafted roots to control suckering. 

Syringa vulgaris ‘Madame Lemoine’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade White double fragrant flowers. 

LILAC - FRENCH - MONTAIGNE 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green lavender Double, pale, fragrant flowers 

Syringa sp. 3 m. 2 m. part shade Good bloomer 

LILAC-FRENCH-PRESIDENT GREVY 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Blue Grafted roots to control suckering. 

Syringa vulgaris ‘President Grevy’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Blue double fragrant flowers. 

LILAC - FRENCH - PRESIDENT LINCOLN 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Blue Single blue flowers with a lavender tint 

Syringa sp. 3 m. 2 m. part shade Heavy bloomer but clusters are small 

LILAC-FRENCH-SENSATION 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Purple Grafted roots to control suckering. 

Syringa vulgaris ‘Sensation’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade & White Sensational purple flowers with white edges. 

LILAC-HYACINTH-ASESSIPPI 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Lavender Earlier and more fragrant blooms than French lilac 

Syringa hyacinthiflora ‘Asessipi’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Lavender single flower. 

LILAC-HYACINTH-MOUNT BAKER 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green White Earlier and more fragrant blooms than French lilac 

Syringa hyacinthiflora ‘Mount Baker’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade White single flowers. 

LILAC-HYACINTH-POCAHONTAS 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Deep Earlier and more fragrant blooms than French lilac. 

Syringa hyacinthiflora ‘Pocahontas’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Purple Deep purple, single flowers. 

LILAC-MISS KIM 5 ft. 3 ft. sun or 3 Green Lavender Larger leaves and later flowering than 

Syringa patula ‘Miss Kim’ 1.5 m. 1 m. part shade Korean. Purplish fall foliage. 

LILAC - PRESTON - CORAL 7 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Pink Blooms later than most lilacs 

Syringa prestonia ‘Coral’ 2 m. 2 m. part shade Coral pink flowers 

LILAC-PRESTON-MISS CANADA 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Pink Vigorous non-suckering shrub. 

Syringa prestoniae ‘Miss Canada’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Pink single flowers later than French Lilac. 

LILAC-PRESTON-RED WINE 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Pink Vigorous non-suckering shrub. 

Syringa prestoniae ‘Red Wine’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Pink single flowers later than French Lilac 

LILAC-PRESTON-ROYALTY 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Purple Vigorous non-suckering shrub. 

Syringa prestoniae ‘Royalty’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Purple single flowers 

LILAC - TINKERBELLE 5-6 ft. 5-6 ft. sun or 3 Green Reddish Wine-red flower buds open in late spring 

Syringa sp. 1.5 m. 1.5 m. part shade Similar to dwarf Korean lilac 

LILAC-VILLOSA or LATE 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Lavender Hardy, drought tolerant hedge or wind- 

Syringa villosa 3 m. 2 m. part shade break. Purple single flowers later than French Lilac. 


12


126 

eVerGreen 

fAVoriteS 

Cedars (Arborvitae) 

This group of globe-shaped and pyramidal evergreen 

shrubs has smooth flat foliage. The color of cedar 

foliage is a rich, soft, light green; some varieties have 

golden yellow tipped foliage. Globe-shaped cedars 

like Brandon or Globe can be used in the landscape 

as foundation plants, in groupings to form a mass, 

or in combination with other shrubs, trees, perennials, 

or annuals. Tall, upright, pyramidal cedars like 

DeGroot’s Spire or Emerald can be used as large 

foundation, specimen, or accent plants. All cedars 

perform best in locations that are sheltered from the 

wind and bright winter sun. All cedars require consistently 

moist soil conditions to survive. 

Junipers 

This large group of evergreen shrubs grows in a 

low-spreading or upright pyramidal fashion. Juniper 

foliage may be scale-like and soft or needle-like 

and prickly. Junipers are available in various colors 

– shades of yellow, gray, blue, and/or green. Spreading 

junipers like Blue Star, Calgary Carpet, or Buffalo 

can be very low growing, mounding, arching, or 

even vase-shaped (Mint Julep). Spreading junipers 

can be used in the landscape as foundation plants 

in groupings to form a mass or in combination with 

other shrubs, trees, perennials, and/or annuals. Upright 

junipers like Cologreen, Scopulorum, or Wichita 

Blue grow in a tall, pyramidal form and can be used as 

large foundation, specimen, or accent plants. Several 

varieties of junipers are available in grafted, staked, 

and/or sculptured forms. Most grafted junipers grow 

downward to create a weeping, pyramidal form. 

Staked junipers are low growing forms in which one 

branch has been staked to grow upward in a upright 

form; they require constant staking. Sculptured forms 

are most often pompon (balls of foliage on the end of 

many stems) and are used as specimen plants. 

Larch 

This group of very hardy, deciduous coniferous trees 

form soft green needles in the spring and summer. 

In the fall these needles turn golden yellow before 

they fall off. These trees prefer moist soil conditions. 

The most commonly available variety is the Siberian 

Larch (Larix sibirica). 

Pines 

This large group of evergreen coniferous shrubs and 

trees has long needles in bundles of two or five spirally 

arranged along the scaly branches. Every few 

years in the fall pines lose the needles close to their 

trunks and from their lower branches. To keep pine 

shrubs and trees compact prune the new growth or 

candles back by half each year during the month of 

June. Good varieties for Alberta are Scotch, Mugho, 

and Bristlecone. 

Spruce 

This large group of evergreen coniferous shrubs and 

trees has short square needles that are borne singly 

on scaly branches. Spruce usually have a pyramidal 

shape but dwarf rounded forms are also available. 

The foliage color varies from dark blue to green. Many 

spruce varieties provide a good contrast in the landscape 

and are especially attractive during the winter 

months. To keep spruce shrubs and trees compact 

prune the new growth or candles back by half each 

year during June or when growth is fresh.

eVerGreen PHotoS 

Columnar Spruce 

Mugho Pine 

Globe Blue Spruce 

Blue Spruce Emerald Green Cedar 

Daub’s Frosted Juniper 

Calgary Carpet Juniper 

Moonglow Juniper 


12


12 

eVerGreenS all 


Color 

Flower 

Color 



Sun 

Features 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

CEDAR/ARBORVITAE Thuja occidentalis 

BRANDON 13’/4m 5’/1.5m » 3-4 Green Columnar conifer used as a vertical accent; from Brandon,MB. 

DANICA 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green Slow-growing, compact; prefers moist areas; keep out of wind. 

DEGROOT’S SPIRE 7’/2m 2’/0.5m » 4 Green Narrow, upright, plant. Suitable as a specimen for a small spot. 

EMERALD 13’/4m 5’/1.5m » 4 Emerald Popular emerald green foliage; Pyramidal plant used as a specimen. 

GLOBE 7’/2m 7’/2m » 3-4 Dk Green Large, globe-shaped evergreen. Rotund, rounded form. 

HOLMSTRUP 7’/2m 3’/1m » 4 Green Upright, compact, conical conifer. Slow-growing shorter variety 

LITTLE GEM 3’/1m 4’/1.3m » 4 Green Crumpled foliage holds color in winter; very compact 

LITTLE GIANT 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green Popular globe-shaped evergreen. 

TECHNY 13’/4m 5’/1.5m » 3 Dark Hardiest cedar for the chinook area. Narrow pyramidal shape. 

WAREANA or SIBERIAN 10’/3m 7’/2m » 3-4 Green Broader upright cedar. Robust rugged plant. 

FIR 

DOUGLAS - Pseudotsuga meniesii 40’/14m 18’/6m 3-4 Green Does best in areas with abundant air moisture 

DWARF BALSAM Abies balsamea ‘Nana’ 1’/0.3m 3’/1m » 3 Green Needs protection from summer sun; provide ample water 

JUNIPER - SPREADING - Juniperus var. 

ALPINE CARPET 8”/20cm 3’/1m 4 Green Good groundcover with dense, soft-textured foliage 

ANDORRA - YOUNGSTOWN 2’/0.6m 4’/1.3m » 4 Blue-Green Gray-green foliage turns a lovely purple in winter 

ARCADIA 24”/0.5m 3’/1m 2 Med. Green All-purpose; soft foliage. 

BAR HARBOR 1’/0.3m 7’/2m » 3 Blue-Green Foliage turns purple in winter; center can open with age 

BLUE CHIP 1’/0.3m 7’/2m » 3 Blue Bright blue foliage is retained in winter; popular ground cover. 

BLUE DANUBE 3’/1m 7’/2m » 3 Blue-Green Aquamarine bluish-green foliage; spreading selection of Savin. 

BLUE PRINCE 1’/0.3m 3’/1m » 3 Blue-Green Provide snowcover in winter for protection; Excellent blue color. 

BLUE STAR 1.5’/0.5m 5’/1.5m » 4 Blue Bright blue, star-shaped needles used for color contrast. 

BOYKO STARDUST 1.5’/0.5m 5’/1.5m » 4 Bllue-Gold Variegated blue star from Oregon; may burn in full sun. 

BROADMOOR 1’/0.3m 7’/2m » 3 Green Bright green foliage. Dense, low, wide, spreading juniper 

BUFFALO 1’/0.3m 7’/2m » 3 Green Bright green feathery foliage on this spreader. 

CALGARY CARPET 1’/0.3m 5’/1.5m » 3 Green Bright foliage and dense branches. Excellent spreading juniper. 

DAUB’S FROSTED 1.5’/0.5m 4’/1.3m » 4 Gold-blue Bluish foliage tipped with gold in good light; needs shelter 

EFFUSA 1’/30cm 6’/2m 3 Green New foliage soft-brown matures green; circular spreader 

GOLDCOAST/OLD GOLD 3 ‘/1m 5’/1.5m » 4 Gold tip Golden foliage on arching branches. Good for color contrast. 

GOLD STAR 4’/1.3m 6’/2m 4 Lt. Green Light green foliage on gold branches; sun needed for color 

HOLGER 1.5’/0.5m 5’/1.5m » 4 Gold/Blue Compact spreader ; gold tipped blue foliage provides good 

contrast. 

HUGHES 1’/0.3m 6-8’/2m 3 silver-blue Graceful, arhcing branches; retains foliage colour through the 

winter 

ICEE BLUE 1’/0.3m 5’1/5m » 3 Blue Impressive icy blue foliage from Illinois. 

LIMEGLOW 1.5’/0.3m 4’/1.3m 4 lime-green New variety from Iseli Nursery; bright foliage holds colour well 

MINT JULEP/SEA GREEN 3’/1m 7’/2m » 4 Green Dark green foliage; fountain-like form. Best in semi-shaded location. 

MOOR-DENSE 1’/0.3m 5’/1.5m » 3 Green Selection of Broadmoor juniper with denser and darker green 

needles. 

MOTHERLODE 0.5’/0.1m 4’/1.3m 4 Gold Golden yellow sport of Wiltonii. New variety from Iseli Nursery 

NEW BLUE TAM 2’/0.6m 5’/1.5m » 3 Blue Symmetrical mound shaped spreader. Contrasting blue foliage color. 

PRINCE OF WALES 1’/0.3m 7’/2m » 3 Green Lowest growing green spreading juniper from Waterton,Alberta. 

SAVIN 3’/1m 7’/2m » 3 Green Original species with scale-like, green foliage. Vase-shaped form 

SCANDIA 1’/0.3m 5’/1.5m » 3 Green Sister to Arcadia juniper but smaller and lower growing. 

TABLE TOP BLUE 5’/1.5m 7’/2m » 3 Blue Unique upright, flat topped variety. Use as a specimen plant. 

TAMARISCIFOLIA 2’/0.6m 7’/2m » 3 Green Symmetrical mound-shaped spreader. 

WILTONI - BLUE RUG 6”/0.15m 7’/2m » 3 Blue Lowest growing spreading juniper. Useful as a ground cover. 

YUKON BELLE 10”/25cm 4’/1.3m 2 Green Broad spreading and very hardy; good accent 

JUNIPER - UPRIGHT - Juniperus var. 

COLOGREEN 10’/3m 5’/1.5m » 3 Green Bright foliage on upright juniper.Compact branches and conical form. 

GHOST PLANT - ‘Candelabrum’ 9’/3m 6’/2m 3 Blue-Green Rare weeping variety of Rocky Mountain juniper 

IDYLLWILD 6’/2m 3’/1m 4 Green Upright dark-green foliage; good as a single specimen or for a hedge 

MEDORA 10’/3m 3’/1m » 3 Blue-Green Upright columnar form. Bluish-green foliage. 

MOONGLOW 10’/3m 5’/1.5m » 3 Blue Popular upright blue Juniper; similar to Wichita Blue 

ROCKY MOUNTAIN 9’/3m 6’/2m 3 Blue-green Native upright variety; good drought tolerance; Dense growth habit. 

TOLLESON’S WEEPING 10’/3m 5’/1.5m » 4 Blue-Green Small tree with weeping, graceful branches. Unique specimen plant 

WICHITA BLUE 10’/3m 5’/1.5m » 3 Blue Similar to moonglow but finer foliage. Most popular upright 

juniper.

eVerGreenS all 


Color 

Features 



Sun 

Part Shade » 

Shade 

LARCH-SIBERIAN - Larix sibirica 25’/8m 12’/3.5m » 2 Green Unique deciduous conifer sheds needles in winter. Gold fall foliage. 

PINE - Pinus 

AUSTRIAN - P. nigra 40’/12m 20’/6m 4 Green Dark green stiff needles; compact growth habit 

BRISTLECONE - P. aristata 13’/4m 7’/2m » 2 Green-White Slow growing, unique rugged plant with 5 needles in cluster 

LIMBER - P. flexilis 20’/6m 10’/3m 3 Green-Blue Native to foothills; slow grower; dense flexible branching 

LODGEPOLE - P. contorta latifolia 35’/10m 10’/3m 4 Green Tall, slender tree with narrow loose crown; native forest tree. 

PONDEROSA - Pinus ponderosa 30’/10m 10’/3m » 3 Green Large pyramidal pine; beautiful long needles and cones 

SWISS STONE - Pinus cembra 20’/6m 10’/3m » 3 Green Columnar conical conifer. Picturesque pine tree. 

PINE - MUGO - Pinus mugo var. 

DWARF - P. mugo pumilio 6’/2m 6’/2m » 3 Green More compact than freefrom; prune to keep shape 

MOPS 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green Compact form of mugo; very slow-growing 

MUGO - FREEFORM - P. mugo mughus 15’/5m 15’’/5m » 1 Green Popular shrubby pine; Hardiest coniferous evergreen in Calgary. 

SLOWMOUND 3’/1m 3’/1m » 2 Green Forms dense mound; slow-growing; good for rock gardens 

SWISS MOUNTAIN - P. uncinata 20’/6m 10’/3m » 3 Green Coniferous tree similar to Mugho Pine. Pollution tolerant. 

TANNENBAUM 10’/3m 6’/2m » 3 Green Compact pyramidal pine; new interesting variety 

VALLEY CUSHION 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green Uniform compact mounding growth; a Tru-Dwarf variety 

WHITE BUD 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green/White White resin in buds in late winter; a Tru-Dwarf variety 

PINE - SCOTS - Pinus sylvestris var. 

ALBYN PROSTRATA 2’/60cm 8’/2.6m 3 Green Spreading Scots pine; holds color in winter. 

SCOTS 40’/13m 30’/10m » 3 Blue-Green Unique orange-brown bark on upper trunk and branches 

COLUMNAR - ‘Fastigiata’ 15’/3m 7’/1m 3 Blue-Green Narrow upright form; keep snow off during winter 

HILLSIDE CREEPER 1’/30cm 8’/2.6m » 3 Green Low-growing ground-huggging ScotS Pine 

RUSSIAN CYPRESS - Microbiota decussata 1’/0.3m 5’/1.5m » 3 Green Rare evergreen with bright green foliage used as 

ground cover. 

SPRUCE - COLORADO - Picea pungens var. 

BAKERI 13’/4m 10’/3m » 2 Deep Blue Long, dark blue needles. Conical conifer. 

BLUE - ‘Glauca’ 35’/10m 13’/4m » 2 Blue Selected for blue needle color. Used as a screen, shade, street tree. 

BLUE CREEPING - P. pungens procumbens 3’/1m vaires » 3 Blue New creeping variety of Colorado spruce 

BOYKO MYSTIQUE varies varies » 3 Blue Irregular growing sport of Colorado Blue; good for specimen. 

COLUMNAR BLUE - ‘Fastigiata’ 15’/3m 7’/1m » 3 Blue Popular hardy, columnar narrow, spruce instead of upright juniper 

FAT ALBERT 25’/8m 12’/3.5m » 3 Blue Beautiful bright blue spruce. Broader based than Colorado Spruce. 

GLOBE BLUE/GREEN - ‘Globosa’ 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 2 Blue-Green Compact, dwarf, slow growing, globe-shaped. Avail. as standard 

GREEN 35’/10m 13’/4m » 2 Green Long, rigid needles on pyramidal shape.Use for screening or shelter. 

GREEN SPIRE 25’/8m 12’/3.5m » 3 Green Green form of Fat Albert; dense pyramidal form 

HOOPSII 30’/10m 10’/3m » 2 Blue Brightest bluest spruce. Narrow pyramidal shape. 

JIMMY JAMES 13’/4m 10’/3m » 3 Blue New very blue, almost silver, variety 

MESA VERDE 3’/1m 6’/2m 3 Green Very hardy nest form of spruce; better than Nest Spruce in Alberta 

MONTGOMERY 4’/1.3m 6’/2m 3 Blue Compact globe blue spruce that forms leader as matures 

MRS. CESSARINI 3’/1m 3’/1m 3 Green Bright green mounding spruce; light green bud break 

WEEPING - ‘Pendula’ varies varies 3 Blue Weeping tree needs staking when young; can be used as groundcover 

SPRUCE- SPRUCE - NORWAY - Picea abies var. 

ACROCONA 6’/2m 6’/2m » 3 Green Compact, slow-growing, irregular; has red cones on branch tips 

BIRD’S NEST - ‘Nidiformis’ 3’/1m 5’/1.5m » 4 Dk-Green Flat-topped, low growing, coniferous shrub. Use in place of juniper. 

COLUMNAR - ‘Cupressina’ 15’/5m 3’/1m 4 Green Very narrow Norway Spruce; better with snow loads than others 

DWARF NORWAY - ‘Pumila’ 3’/1m 3’/1m 4 Green Compact nest form; early bud break may not be good in Calgary 

LITTLE GEM 3’1/m 3’/1m 4 Green Very dense nest spruce with small needles; good for rock gardens 

OHLENDORFII 8’/2.5m 5’/1.5m 3 Green Grows slowly from a rounded shrub to a small conical tree 

WEEPING NORWAY - ‘Pendula’ 7’/2m variable » 4 Green Weeping spruce requires staking to grow upright. 

SPRUCE - WHITE - Picea glauca 

BLACK HILLS 20’/6m 10’/3m » 3 Blue-Green Superior to white spruce. Symmetrical, compact growth habit. 

WHITE 20’/6m 10’/3m » 2 Blue-Green Pyramidal native spruce; highly adaptable 

WEEPING WHITE - ‘Pendula’ 10’/3m 3’/1m 4 Green Very narrow weeping form; stiff, downward hanging branches 


12


1 0 

PLAntinG GUiDe 

Spring planting is preferable for most roses, vines, shrubs, 

trees and evergreens. However, the advent of the containerized 

nursery stock has extended the planting season to 

match the growing season. With proper care these plants 

can be planted any time during the growing season, from 

spring thaw to fall freeze-up. By following a number of 

simple steps you will be able to successfully plant containerized 

nursery stock. Remember that containers of all 

types and wraps other than burlap should be removed from 

the root ball before or during planting. 

Pre-planting Instructions: Take care to prevent wind 

burn to plants during transport by covering them well. Keep 

plants cool, in a shady area, and well watered until they are 

planted. Cover the root ball of balled and burlapped trees 

to prevent root drying. 

Soil Preparation: All trees, shrubs, and roses should 

be planted in well-drained topsoil. If there is less than 

20 cm. of topsoil in the planting area additional 

topsoil should be added. As you dig a hole 

separate the topsoil from the heavy subsoil. 

Discard the subsoil and replace it with rich 

topsoil. Do not pull heavy subsoil in around 

a plant as backfill. Add one part peat moss 

or prepared soil mix to three parts soil that 

you have dug from the planting hole. If, 

after digging a hole, you find the subsoil to 

be excessively heavy, having a high clay 

content; dig the hole down an additional 

15-30 cm. (6-12 in.). Fill this space with 

clean sand or gravel to enhance the subsoil 

drainage conditions. 

Bare Root Stock: The most commonly 

available bare root shrub is Cotoneaster 

(Cotoneaster lucida) which is use as a 

hedging material. Caragana and Lilac 

are also available. Until planted keep 

the root system of bare root plants 

moist. Protect bare root plants from drying out 

in the sun and wind by storing them in a shaded 

location with the roots wrapped in plastic or 

submerged in a bucket of water. Dig holes, or a 

trench, large enough to accommodate the plant's entire root 

system without crowding. Set the plants in the holes so that 

the ground level is even with or slightly higher than the top 

of the root system. Pull the topsoil in around the plant’s root 

system to fill the hole. Tamp the topsoil in firmly around the 

base of the plant with the sole of your shoe. This eliminates 

air pockets and ensures good contact between the topsoil 

and the root system. Create a tree well or indentation, which 

will hold water, around the base of the plant. Water the plant 

thoroughly by filling this indentation with a solution of water 

and a plant starter such as Schultz 10-60-10. Water the plant 

whenever the soil surface dries out, usually bi-weekly, during 

the first growing season to ensure the plant’s survival. 

Balled and Burlapped Stock: Dig a hole 15 cm. 

deeper and 30 cm. wider in diameter than the root ball. 

Place the plant in the hole and check to ensure that ground 

level is even with the top of the root ball. Cut and loosen 

the burlap wrap on the root ball, removing the burlap from 

the top of the root ball, and leave it around the sides, to 

hold the soil around the roots. As you pull the topsoil in 

around the root ball to fill in the hole, tamp the topsoil 

down firmly with your shoe. This eliminates air pockets and 

ensures good contact between the topsoil and the root system. 

Create a tree well, which will hold water, around the 

base of the plant. Water the plant thoroughly by filling the 

depression with a solution of water and a plant starter such 

as Schultz 10-60-10. Water the plant deeply whenever the 

soil surface dries out, generally biweekly, during the first 

growing season to ensure the plant's survival. 

Containerized Stock: Dig a hole 15 cm. deeper and 30 

cm. wider in diameter than the container in which the plant 

is growing. With the container on, set the plant in the hole 

to ensure that the ground level is even with the top of the 

root ball. Remove the plant from the hole and carefully, so 

as not to disturb the soil around the root system, remove the 

root ball from the container. Place the root ball back into the 

hole. As you pull topsoil in around the plant to fill the hole, 

tamp the topsoil down firmly with the sole of your shoe. 

This eliminates air pockets and ensures good contact 

between the topsoil and the root system. Create a 

tree well or indentation, which will hold water, around 

the base of the plant. Water the plant thoroughly by 

filling this indentation with a solution of water and 

a root starter such as Schultz 10-60-10. Water the 

plant deeply whenever the soil surface dries out, 

generally biweekly, during the first growing season 

to ensure the plant’s survival. 

Staking a Tree: Due to the windy conditions 

in the Calgary area all but the smallest 

of trees require staking. Staking keeps trees 

straight while they are rooting and prevents 

uprooting during wind storms. There are two 

methods of staking trees: using guy wires, 

or metal posts or wooden stakes. When 

staked, a tree should be able to move 

a few inches, as this will encourage 

strong root and trunk development. 

Guy Wires: Attach 3 guy wires to the tree, 

2/3 the way up the tree. Protect the tree’s bark 

by wrapping the portion of the wire contacting 

the tree trunk with a section of garden hose. Run one wire 

toward the northwest, directly into the prevailing winds, 

and attach it to a small stake, 40 cm. long, driven into the 

ground about two meters away from the base of the tree. 

Run the other two wires out from the tree ensuring even 

spacing between the three guy wires. Attach these wires to 

similar small stakes. Make sure that each of the 3 wires are 

evenly tightened. 

Metal or Wooden Stakes: Select a metal or wooden 

stake that is about one meter taller than the tree you are 

staking. Locate the stake on the NW side of the tree as 

this is the origin of most prevailing winds in Calgary. Drive 

the stake into the ground next to the tree making sure that 

the stake passes on the outside of the root ball. Pound the 

stake in deep enough to secure it, about one meter. Attach 

the tree to the stake using plastic tree ties or wire. Cover 

the wire with a section of garden hose where it contacts the 

tree trunk so as not to damage the bark.

PrUninG GUiDe 

General Pruning Tips: 

The basic objectives of pruning are to maintain the plant's 

natural shape, to maintain its health and vigor, and to keep 

it a manageable size. There are a number of general rules 

that should be followed no matter what type of pruning 

you are doing. Pruning cuts should be made with a sharp 

and clean pruning tool such as pruning shears. Disease 

organisms can be spread from branch to branch or from 

tree to tree if your pruning tools are not kept clean. Clean 

your pruning tools by dipping them in bleach (1 part bleach 

& 10 parts water) or alcohol between cuts, on disease 

infected plants or between plants, on disease-free plants. 

So as not to leave any stubs that will inevitably die, pruning 

cuts should be made cleanly and on the outside of the 

collar (wrinkled area between trunk and branch). Pruning 

cuts on small stems are always made just above a leaf 

or branch joint or node. Large pruning wounds can be 

painted with pruning paint to prevent the entry of disease 

organisms. Damaged, dead or diseased wood should 

be removed as soon as it is noticed. Branches which are 

crossing should be removed before they enlarge and start 

rubbing together. Try to maintain the natural shape of the 

tree or shrub. Carefully select which branches should be 

removed or headed back so as not to spoil the shape of 

the plant. 

Hedges: 

Newly planted hedges such as cotoneaster, caragana, Lilac, 

and cranberry; should be pruned back to encourage lateral 

branching which creates a fuller hedge more rapidly. As your 

hedge develops trim it so that the base is wider than the 

top. This allows sufficient sunlight to reach all leaf surfaces, 

preventing the base of the hedge from becoming open and 

sparse. Hedge shearing can be carried out at any time during 

the growing season. Older hedges in need of rejuvenation 

are more easily thinned out during the dormant season, in 

the early spring before new growth appears or in the fall after 

the leaves have fallen. 

Shrubs That Flower on Old Wood: 

Shrubs that flower on old wood in the spring such as 

forsythia, double flowering plum, nanking cherry, or lilac, 

for example, should be pruned as soon as flowering is 

finished. Pruning at any other time of the year will remove 

the dormant flower buds. Flower buds for most shrubs 

are formed on previous year's growth. White spireas such 

as bridal wreath, garland, and three-lobed also flower on old 

wood. Any other shrub that flowers in the summer on old wood 

should be pruned immediately after flowering. To prune older 

shrubs, usually requiring thinning, occasionally remove entire 

large branches by cutting them out at base. 

Shrubs That Flower on New Wood: 

Shrubs that bloom on new wood, such as elders, 

hydrangea, dwarf pink spireas (S. bumalda and japonica 

cultivars), Group C clematis, and most roses including hybrid 

teas and parkland series, may be pruned in the spring to 

remove old wood. Flower buds are formed on current year's 

growth. All other shrubs not listed above bloom on old wood. 

Suckers which emerge from below ground are removed during 

the summer, as they originate from the root stock. 

Shade Trees: 

Shade trees should be trained when they are still young. 

By shaping shade trees early, unwanted lower branches, 

crossing or rubbing branches, and branches growing in the 

wrong location or direction are eliminated. Most shade or 

ornamental trees prefer to be pruned during the dormant 

season, in early spring. Birch and maple (which are called 

"bleeders"), are exceptions, however. These species should 

be pruned in mid-summer, usually in July or August. Pruning 

cuts on birch and maple do not heal quickly because they 

bleed sap if pruned before their leaves are fully expanded. 

Most shade trees, if properly located and pruned when 

young, may require less pruning when mature. If you do have 

large trees requiring pruning, we recommend you consult a 

professional pruning service. 

Fruit Trees: 

Fruit trees such as apple, plum, or pear, are pruned during 

the dormant season in early spring to encourage vigorous 

growth and to create a better producing tree. Prune fruit 

trees so that all parts of the tree receive adequate sunlight. 

Unwanted lower branches, crossing or rubbing branches, and 

branches growing in the wrong direction or location should be 

removed when the tree is young. Any suckers growing from 

the roots or water sprouts growing from the trunk should also 

be removed. To prevent fruit from overloading and breaking 

permanent branches the smaller, outside branches should 

be also be thinned. 

Evergreens: 

The new growth on pines, called "candles", should be 

cut in half in June, after the new growth has hardened, 

to encourage a compact shape. Cedars and junipers 

may be shaped at any time. The long soft, new growth 

on spruce may be shortened to shape it, or minimize 

growth, in June. If the leader of a spruce is damaged or 

removed, a new one may be formed by tying a sturdy 

stick to the trunk, extending it above the top of the tree, 

and bending and tying one top branch up to the stick. 

You can avoid having to keep evergreens smaller than 

their natural size by choosing varieties that have an 

appropriate mature size. 


1 1


1 2 

PrUninG eqUiPment & USeS 

Pruning Equipment: The use of proper pruning 

equipment, to complete the job at hand is very important. 

It will not only save you time, but also money. One 

problem that we see at the garden centre is people 

bringing in broken pruning equipment, wanting to know 

why this happened. It happens because we try to save 

time by doing the job with one tool. Small hand pruners 

should only be used to cut branches the thickness of 

your little finger. The next tool would be the lopper. The 

longer the handle the more leverage you will get, but 

cuts larger than 1 in (2.5 cm) should not be made. This 

size of cut can also be made with a long handled pole 

pruner, but the more the pole is extended the harder it is 

to prune. Whenever possible use a ladder with the pole 

pruner, this will enable you to get higher up into the tree 

without extending the handle all the way. When the cut 

is larger than one inch in diameter, a saw should be 

used. For very large branches, a chainsaw would be 

the tool of choice, but must be used with extreme 

caution, and proper safety equipment. 

Both the small one handed pruner, and the lopper 

come in two different styles. The first is the anvil 

pruner, where the blade comes down onto a 

chopping block. We however do not recommend 

this type of pruner, because it tends to crush 

the branch, and tear the cambium layer, which 

slows the healing process, and can cause health 

problems later on, such as rotting as well as insect 

and fungus entry. These anvil type pruners are 

great when removing a tree completely, because 

it allows you to use more pressure without causing 

more damage to the pruner. The second type and 

most practical, is the hooked or curved blade. It 

is frequently called a by-pass pruner, where the 

blade passes by the cutting block, similar to a 

pair of scissors. This allows a nice clean cut to 

occur,which helps the healing process. There are 

many styles available so it is important to find one 

that is comfortable and practical for the amount 

and type of use. 

If pruning hedges there are manual, gas, and 

electric hedge shears available. For small jobs 

manual hedge shears work great and are much 

easier to sharpen. For larger jobs, electric or gas 

shears will save you time. Gas shears are much 

more powerful and versatile, however are not as 

easy to service or sharpen. One thing to keep in 

mind when pruning a hedge is that the bottom of 

the hedge should be kept wider than the top of the 

hedge, as this enables sunlight to reach all the 

leaves, and to prevent die-back and thinning from 

lack of light and air circulation. 

Safety Equipment: Basic protection for all 

pruning jobs includes: gloves, sturdy footwear, long 

sleeved shirt, pants, a hat, but most important is a 

good pair of eye protectors, to keep pruning cuttings, 

and debris out of your eyes. If using electric or gas 

hedge shears, or chainsaws, ear protection should 

be mandatory. With chainsaws you should also have 

protective legwear, such as chainsaw pants, and steel 

toed work boots. Proper knowledge on using a chainsaw 

is should be obtained before using this equipment.

Trees, Shrubs And Evergreens: 

Several types of winter plant damage occur in the Calgary 

area. The most obvious type, referred to as tip-kill 

or die-back, is a result of the local conditions - mainly 

warm, dry Chinook winds, bright sun, and low relative 

humidity. These conditions accelerate the normally slow 

loss of water from plant tissues and result in dry twigs, 

damaged buds, desiccated evergreen foliage, and the 

death of certain plants. 

Warm Chinook winds also cause plant injury 

by inducing premature spring. This occurs when plants 

break dormancy and begin growing during extended periods 

of warm winter weather. Subsequent cold periods 

damage developing leaves, crack sap-filled bark; and, on 

occasion, damage root systems. Frost damage, caused 

by rapid temperature fluctuations, is a condition we should 

therefore be aware of and attempt to prevent. 

Since evergreens retain their foliage year round, the 

needles are constantly losing moisture through a process 

known as transpiration. This moisture must be constantly 

replaced in order to prevent Chinook damage. Therefore, 

evergreen trees and shrubs require additional moisture 

and protection to ensure their survival under local conditions. 

Sheltered gardens have a better chance of standing up to 

the warm, dry winds of Calgary. Shelter may be provided 

by houses, walls, fences, or even by other trees. The most 

sheltered spots in your yard are located where the snow 

drifts the deepest. Snow protects plants by insulating 

them from winter temperature extremes. But snow often 

doesn’t accumulate in this area, and many new gardens 

lack shelter entirely. We have to offer a helping hand when 

it comes to winter protection. 

You can not control the weather but you can reduce the 

damage caused by Chinook winds and bright winter sun. 

In the late fall, apply an anti-desiccant such as Wilt-Proof 

to sensitive evergreens. Rather than wrapping them with 

burlap, create a windbreak or sun screen by placing two 

or three stakes into the ground 12-18" from the tree on 

the sunny or windy side, and stretching burlap between 

the stakes. Water all trees (especially evergreens and 

birch), and shrubs thoroughly in the fall, before freeze-up, 

to ensure they have sufficient water. During Chinooks, 

evergreens planted close to the house foundation, particularly 

on the sunny side, may require watering if the 

soil is dry. Hose down foliage, too, as some moisture can 

be taken into needles. Mulch the soil surface around the 

base of less hardy plants to ensure consistent, cold soil 

temperature throughout the winter. Pile straw, dry leaves, 

or dry plant material around the base. 

Winter ProteCtion 

Tea Roses: 

Since tea roses are grafted onto hardier root stock, the 

most important aspect of winter protection is keeping the 

plant alive above the graft. The bush should be planted 

so that the graft is 4 - 5" below ground level, where the 

temperature is much more consistent. Soil is then used 

to further protect the plant. In the fall, after light frost, 

water the plant well, and cut back to about 8 - 10". Place 

a rose cone, a large tree pot with the bottom removed, 

or a heavy, waxed cardboard box over top of it; and fill 

the box with soil, vermiculite, peat moss, straw, sawdust, 

or dry leaves. Cover the top with cloth, not plastic, and 

don’t remove the covering until early May. You may have 

to cover again temporarily if frost is expected. While this 

method is no guarantee that every tea rose will survive, 

it is quite successful most of the time, and means that 

tea roses can be grown successfully in Calgary. It can 

also be used to protect other less hardy shrubs, such as 

azalea, blueberry, clematis, rose daphne, rhododendron 

and weigela. 

Climbing Roses: 

Since most climbing shrub roses bloom most heavily on 

previous year’s growth, it is important that the bushes 

survive well above ground, in order to have maximum 

number of flowers. Non-hardy climbing roses are not 

recommended for Calgary gardens because they are 

not reliable. Some Explorer series roses such as William 

Baffin and John Cabot are much hardier and will bloom 

reliably. Rambling roses such as John Davis and Henry 

Kelsey may also be trained as climbers. 

1 

treeS AnD SHrUBS


1 

tree CAnKerS 

A canker is defined as a diseased, sunken lesion on woody 

tissue. There are three types of cankers; fungal, bacteria 

or frost. Frost cankers, actually physiological disorders, are 

cracks on the bark caused by freezing and thawing. Fungal 

and bacterial pathogens usually gain 

entry through frost cracks, pruning 

wounds, wind damage, or sun scald. 

Sun scald is another physiological 

condition that occurs on the south 

west side of tree trunks exposed to 

bright winter sunlight, most often 

affecting mayday and mountain ash 

trees. Fungi are in fact microscopic 

plants which do not invade healthy 

plant tissue. Once inside the plant the 

fungi move into the sap system and 

eventually decrease or stop water 

from moving upward from the roots to 

the branches. If you look closely at the 

trunk where the branch is attached, 

you may see cracks in the bark with 

the bark peeled back from the crack, 

elongated oval, sunken or darkened 

areas in the bark or places where sap 

is oozing from broken areas in the 

bark. One common fungus causes 

Cytospora canker in Cotoneasters, 

particularly inside older hedges where 

there is little light or air circulation; a 

perfect place for fungi to grow. The 

commonly observed orange Nectria canker on cotoneaster 

is actually a secondary rot organism that does not harm the 

plants itself. Some of these cankers are incorrectly diagnosed 

as fireblight, in which the leaves die because the bacteria kill 

them, and then the cankers come afterwards. While possible 

on most trees, fungal Cytospora 

cankers are most prevalent on 

mountain ash, poplar, spruce, and 

willow. Bacterial cankers, also 

called slime flux or wetwood, are 

most freqently observed on poplar 

trees. There is no chemical control 

for fungal or bacterial cankers. 

The only way to control them is 

to prune the branches back well 

into healthy wood. In the case of 

hedges; remove the inside, affected 

branches and then the remaining 

branches will grow into the center 

because of the available light and 

air circulation. This is not a cure as 

the fungi or bacteria could spread 

within the sap of the plant and 

cause more cankers. Eventually, if 

it invades the main trunk, the tree 

may have to be removed. Be careful 

to clean pruning tools with a 10% 

bleach solution between each cut, 

as fungi or bacteria spread on tools. 

It is difficult to diagnose cankers by 

describing them on the phone so 

bring in a branch to customer service for easier identification.

oSeS HArDy roSeS 

Roses, the “Queen of Flowers,” are available in a variety 

of sizes, colours and fragrances. All roses require 

a sunny location and well-drained, slightly acidic soil. 

See the Planting Guide on p. for information on planting 

containerized plants. All roses, especially tea roses, 

respond to adequate watering and fertilizing by an 

increase in flower size, abundance, and color intensity. 

When watering, avoid getting the foliage wet while 

keeping the soil evenly moist. Fertilize once in spring 

with a slow-release rose food or apply a water soluble 

rose fertilizer about once a month from May to mid-August.Roses 

are generally divided into two groups: Hardy 

Roses and Tender Roses. 

Hardy roses include: Explorer, Parkland, Rugosa, etc. 

Tender Roses include: Floribunda, Grandiflora, Hybrid 

Tea, Miniature, etc. Roses come in various forms: 

groundcover, shrub, hedging and rambling or climbing, 

etc. with much variation in color, fragrance, shape and 

size of flowers. The majority of roses bloom on new 

growth and rebloom or flower continuously throughout 

the growing season. Blooms may be small - less than 

2"(5cm), medium - 2-4"(5-10cm) or large - more than 

4"(10cm). 

Hardy Roses include a One Full Year Guarantee! 

Hardy Shrub Roses 

World-wide,tea roses are the most popular rose. However, 

here in Calgary, hardy roses are more popular. Their ease 

of cultivation, disease resistance, and winter hardiness 

earns them high points in Calgary gardens. 

Planting and Care 

Hardy roses require a sunny location and well-drained, 

slightly acidic soil. See the Planting Guide on p. for 

information on planting containerized plants. Hardy roses 

respond well to adequate watering and fertilizing. Fertilize 

once in spring with a slow-release product like Smartcote 

Rose Food. If using a water-soluble fertilizer like Shultz 

Rose Food, supply four, evenly spaced applications from 

May to no later than mid-August. Ask about Myke Tree 

and Shrub growth supplement. It builds root systems to 

create healthier rose plants. 

Pruning 

It is important to prune out any damaged, dead, or diseased 

stems. Light pruning can be carried on throughout the 

growing season. Prune out dead blooms (deadhead) and 

prune back to just above 5-leaflet leaves to encourage 

more flowers on re-blooming types of roses. 

Winter Protection 

Some hardy roses may suffer Chinook or winter damage, 

but almost all bloom on new wood and will recover in the 

spring. Cover the soil with 3-4 in.(7-10cm) of mulch at 

least out to the drip line.This will help protect and maintain 

healthier roots in any season. 

Most of our hardy roses are grown on their own roots. 

This makes them much hardier than grafted plants. 

Categories of hardy roses include Explorer, Parkland 

(Morden), Hybrid Rugosa, and Species types. Different 

forms include climbers, groundcovers, shrub and hedging 

roses. Besides abundant flowers during the growing 

season, many hardy roses can also be enjoyed for their 

colorful rose hips in winter. 

Explorer Roses 

Developed through Agriculture Canada and named after 

early Canadian explorers, these are some of the hardiest 

roses ever developed and include climbing, groundcover, 

shrub and hedging types. 

Parkland Roses (Morden Roses) 

Developed by Agriculture Canada in Morden, Manitoba, 

many are direct descendents of floribunda and hybrid tea 

roses crossed with various native roses. They tend to 

have beautifully formed flowers that re-bloom and grow 

on medium-sized plants. 

Hybrid Rugosa Roses 

These are vigorous, reliable roses with repeat blooms 

all season. Many Explorer Roses owe their hardiness to 

breeding with Rugosa Roses. Some Rugosa favorites 

are: Hansa Rose, Blanc de Coubert, Theresa Bugnet and 

Topaz Jewel. Also see (and smell) our Pavement Roses: 

low-growing, salt-tolerant roses with very fragrant white, 

pink or purple blooms. 

Species Roses 

A few favorite roses in this category: 

Red Leaf rose is a popular rose with year-round interest 

Persian Yellow rose is a tall, vigorous plant that produces 

an abundance of deep yellow flowers in June. 

Austrian Copper rose, related to Persian Yellow rose, 

grown since the 1500's; vivid orange-red blooms with 

yellow centers. 

roSeS 1

oSeS 

1 6 

roSeS 

yoUr qUeStion 

Q. Can I grow roses in the shade? 

A. In general, roses need at least six hours of direct sun 

a day to be happy. Roses grown in the shade bloom less, 

are leggy and prone to insects and diseases. 

Q. What do you suggest for climbing roses? 

A. We recommend hardy roses which can be trained to 

climb such as Capt. Samuel Holland, Henry Kelsey, John 

Cabot, John Davis, William Baffin and others. 

Q. There are black spots on my rose leaves. What is 

wrong with this plant? 

A. This is a fungus simply called 'Black Spot'. Infected 

leaves form black spots that are about 1/16 -1/2 in. 

diameter. The infected leaves can turn yellow and in 

severe cases may eventually fall off if not treated. Wet 

leaves and warm temperatures encourage this fungus. 

To fight and/or prevent Black Spot, water the soil not the 

leaves. Prevent splashing on the foliage by using a slow 

trickle or a soaker hose. Water early in the morning to 

allow leaves to dry during the day. Spray the upper and 

lower leaf surfaces with a fungicide such as Funginex 

may help to slow down the spread of Black Spot. Water 

in the morning and ground level can help solve this 

problem too. 

Q. My rose has a white powdery buildup on the leaves. 

What is it and what can I do about it? 

A. This is a fungus called powdery mildew. It coats the 

leaves and can destroy them. One way to reduce this 

problem is to improve air flow around the plant. Prune 

out crossing canes and do not plant too close to a wall or 

fence. Applying a fungicide like Funginex on both infected 

and uninfected leaves may also help prevent the spread 

of powdery mildew. 

Q. There are some semi-circular holes in the leaves of 

my roses. I can't find any insects causing the damage. 

what could it be? 

A. This sounds like leaf-cutter bees. The bees, which are 

commonly used for pollinating alfalfa crops, use the small 

pieces of leaf to line their larval chambers. They cause 

no real damage to the rose and should not be treated. 

Q. My rose won't flower or it flowers poorly. What 

could be the problem? Do I need to fertilize more? 

A. Your rose may need more light: at least 6 hours of 

direct sun per day, preferably morning sun. It may need 

more regular watering, especially suring our dry summers. 

Roses like slightly acid conditions and will benefit when 

peat moss, compost and garden sulphur is mixed into the 

soil. Another cause of poor flowering could be too much 

nitrogen which may cause your plant to produce more 

leaves and less flowers. To encourage flowering, use a 

balanced rose fertilizer. (See next question.) 

Q. How do I fertilize my roses? 

A. Roses are happy in a sunny, well-drained, slightly 

acidic location. In addition, roses respond well to 

regular watering and feeding. Many gardeners feed 

their roses by regularly mixing in compost and bone 

meal around the roots. Others have had success with 

Alaska MorBloom, a soluble fish fertilizer. Another well 

balanced soluble fertilizer is Schultz Rose Food (10- 

12-12) which can be applied about once a month from 

May until mid-August. Alternatively apply a slow-release 

formulation like Smartcote Rose Food (14-12-12) once 

in spring. Provide adequate watering with every feeding 

and throughout the growing season. Ask about Myke Tree 

and Shrub growth supplement. It builds root systems to create 

healthier rose plants. 

Q. When and how do I prune my roses? 

A. Damaged, dead, or diseased stems should be 

removed as soon as you notice them. To encourage more 

flowers on all types of re-blooming roses, prune out dead 

blooms (deadhead) and prune back to just above 5-leaflet 

leaves. In general, hardy roses require only light pruning 

during the growing season. Tender roses need additional 

care. Remember to trim out one third of the grey stems 

in the fall and prune back remaining stems to about 8- 

10" (20-25cm) and cover these with a winter mulch. The 

following spring trim out any dead stem tips. 

Q. How do I protect tender roses (including tea roses) 

for winter ? 

A. Please refer to Winter Protection for Tender Roses 

on page 133.


Variety Color Bloom Petal Height Frag- Features 

Size Count (approx.) rance 

c - May be trained as climber 

r - Attractive rosehips in winter 

Adelaide Hoodless r bright medium semi- 4 ft. light Clusters of bright red continual flowers. 

Parkland red double 1.2 m Old-fashioned favorite rose. 

Alexander McKenzie reddish- medium double 6 ft. medium Tall rose with continual fragrant blooms. 

Explorer pink 1.8 m Flowers and foliage similar to Tea Roses. 

Austrian Copper c red- medium single 6 ft. medium Unique flower show in June. Grown since 1500's. 

Rosa foetida bicolor orange 1.8 m Red-orange petals with copper centers & reverse. 

Blanc de Coubert r white medium double 5 ft. strong Continual white fragrant flowers all season. 

Hybrid Rugosa 1.5 m Red rosehips in fall & winter. 

Cpt. Samuel Holland c reddish- medium double 6 ft. light Trailing growth habit; continual blooming 

Explorer pink 1.8 m Resistant to powdery mildew & black spot. 

Carefree Beauty r pink small semi- 3 ft. light Spreading growth habit; continual blooming 

Shrub double 1 m Blooms from spring until fall. 

Champlain r dark medium double 3 ft. medium Most red of the Explorer Roses. Disease resistant. 

Explorer red 1 m Continual blooming from summer to frost. 

Charles Albanel r medium medium semi- 1.5 ft. strong Hardier groundcover rose than Flower Carpet. 

Explorer pink double 0.5 m Repeat blooming from summer to frost. 

Chuckles deep medium single 2 ft. light Continual blooms. Deep pink with yellow center. 

Shrub pink 0.6 m Glossy green foliage on a compact plant. 

Cuthbert Grant purplish- large semi- 3 ft. light Largest flower of any Parkland or Explorer rose. 

Parkland red double 1 m Old-fashioned favorite rose; repeat blooms. 

Dart's Dash r mauve- medium semi- 3 ft. strong Fragrant blooms repeat all season. 

Hybrid Rugosa red double 1 m Disease resistant plant; colorful rosehips in winter. 

David Thompson deep medium double 3 ft. strong Similar to Hansa Rose but more compact. 

Explorer pink 1 m Continual fragrant blooms. No rose hips. 

De Montarville medium medium double 3 ft. medium Tight red buds open to a medium pink. 

Explorer pink 1 m light Continual blooming. Disease resistant. 

F. J. Grootendorst medium small double 5 ft. light Carnation-like red flowers. 

Hybrid Rugosa red 1.5 m Wrinkled foliage; continual blooming. 

Frontenac deep medium double 3 ft. light Continually flowering in clusters of up to eight. 

Explorer pink 1 m Resistant to powdery mildew & black spot. 

George Vancouver r soft medium double 3 ft. medium Abundance of soft red flowers in clusters. 

Explorer red 1 m Repeat blooms all season. Disease resistant. 

Golden Wings r golden large single 4 ft. light Golden yellow, lightly scented flowers. 

Shrub yellow 1.2m Repeat blooming through growing season. 

Hansa - r reddish- medium double 1.5 m strong Hardy popular fragrant rose; repeat blooms. 

Hybrid Rugosa purple 5 ft. Unique reddish-violet flowers. 

Harrison Yellow sulphur medium double 5 ft light One-time mass of yellow blooms. 

Hybrid foetida yellow 1.5 m Substitute for Persian Yellow rose. 

Henry Hudson r pinkish- medium double 2 ft. medium Pink flower buds open up into white flowers. 

Explorer white 0.6 m Repeat blooming from summer to frost. 

Henry Kelsey c medium medium semi- 7 ft. medium Tall trailing rose may be trained as a climber. 

Explorer r red double 2 m Glossy foliage. Repeat bloomer all season. 

Hope for Humanity blood- small double 2 ft. light Deep red blooms repeat all season. 

Parkland red 0.6 m Commemorates Canadian Red Cross 100th anniv. 

Hunter crimson medium double 4 ft. light Brilliant red flowers repeat until frost. 

Hybrid Rugosa red 1.2 m Tidy shrub form with dark green foliage. 

J. P. Connell cream- medium double 4 ft. light Repeating cream-yellow flowers all season. 

Explorer yellow 1.2 m Flower color is stronger on established plants 

Jens Munk - r medium medium semi- 3 ft. strong Continual fragrant blooms; attractive rosehips 

Explorer pink double 1 m in fall/winter; very hardy shrub/hedging rose. 

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hardy 

roses 

Adelaide Hoodless Alexander McKenzie Blanc de Coubert 

Cpt. Samuel Holland Champlain Charles Albanel Chuckles 

Cuthbert Grant David Thompson F.J. Grootendoorst Frontenac 

George Vancouver Hansa Henry Hudson Henry Kelsey 

Hunter J.P. Connell Jens Munk John Cabot




John Cabot - c reddish- medium double 7 ft. light Tall climbing fragrant rose. 

Explorer r pink 2 m Fully double blooms repeat all season. 

John Davis - c medium medium double 7 ft. medium Tall rambling rose may be trained as a climber. 

Explorer pink 2 m Continual blooms all season. 

John Franklin medium medium double 4 ft. light Continual blooms all season. 

Explorer red 1.2 m Disease-resistant foliage. 

Lambert Closse pale medium double 3 ft. light Full, double flowers; disease resistant shrub. 

Explorer pink 1 m Blooms similar to tea roses; repeat blooms. 

Linda Campbell ruby medium double 5 ft. light Heavy blooming specimen or hedge rose. 

Hybrid Rugosa red 1.5 m Repeat blooms. Almost thornless, arching canes. 

Lois Jolliet - c medium medium double 4-5 ft. light Continuous bloom from summer to frost 

Explorer pink 1.5 m Trailing growth habit; disease resistant. 

Martin Frobisher light medium double 5 ft. strong First introduced Explorer Series rose. 

Explorer pink 1.5 m Continual fragrant blooms. 

Morden Amorette deep medium double 2 ft. light Continuous blooms from summer to frost 

Parkland pink 0.6 m on a very compact plant. 

Morden Blush soft small double 3 ft. light Repeat hybrid tea type flowers; low growing rose. 

Parkland pink 1 m Longest blooming period of any shrub rose. 

Morden Cardinette cardinal medium double 2 ft. light Deep red flowers on a low growing rose. 

Parkland red 0.6 m Ever blooming from June until frost. 

Morden Centennial - r medium medium double 3 ft. medium Plentiful hot pink flowers; glossy green foliage. 

Parkland pink 1 m Repeat blooms; all season. 

Morden Fireglow orange- medium double 2 ft. light Unique orange-red flowers repeat all season. 

Parkland red 0.6 m Low growing, disease resistant rose. 

Morden Ruby ruby medium double 3 ft. light Clusters of ruby red flowers repeat all season. 

Parkland red 1 m A real jewel in the Morden series. 

Morden Sunrise orange small semi- 3 ft. medium Continuous orange-peach blooms with citrus 

Parkland blend double 1 m fragrance. Disease resistant, compact shrub. 

Nearly Wild - r medium small single 3 ft. medium Pink flowers with light center; everblooming 

Shrub pink 1 m Proven all-weather performer. 

Persian Yellow - c deep medium double 6 ft. light Tall popular rose with deep yellow flowers. 

Rosa foetida persiana r yellow 1.8 m One time profusion of blooms. 

Pink Grootendorst medium small double 5 ft. light Carnation-like, pink flowers. 

Hybrid Rugosa pink 1.5 m Wrinkled foliage. 

c - May be trained as climber 

r - Attractive rosehips in winter 

Pavement Roses - r white medium single, 3 ft. medium Fragrant blooms repeat all season; orange 

Hybrid Rugosa pink, red semi-db. 1 m rosehips. Tolerate temperature extremes and salt. 

red-purple double Good for borders and low hedges. 

Prairie Dawn medium small double 5 ft. light Continual double pink blooms all season. 

Shrub pink 1.5 m Glossy foliage. 

Prairie Joy - r medium small double 4 ft. light Hedge type rose for screening; repeat all season 

Shrub pink 1.2 m Dense foliage is disease resistant. 

Quadra - c deep medium double 5 ft. light Clusters of deep red blooms repeat all season. 

Explorer red 1.5 m Arching stems can be trained to climb. 

Red Leaf - r light small single 5 ft. medium Reddish-purple foliage; pink flowers in June. 

Rosa glauca/rubrifolia pink 1.5 m Red hips and purple branches for winter color. 

Rosarie de l’Hay magenta medium semi- 7 ft. strong Continual deep magenta blooms all season. 

Hybrid Rugosa red double 2 m Extremely vigorous plants. 

Royal Edward deep medium single 1.5 ft. medium Repeat blooms all season. 

Explorer pink 0.5 m Low growing, groundcover rose. 

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John Davis John Franklin L.D. Braithwaite Lambert Closse 

Linda Campbell Louis Jolliet Martin Frobisher Morden Blush 

Morden Centennial Morden Fireglow Morden Ruby Nearly Wild 

Persian Yellow Pink Grootendoorst Prairie Dawn Rosa Rubrifolia 

Theresa Bugnet Topaz Jewel William Baffin Winnipeg Parks




Samuel Holland c reddish medium double 6 ft. light Continual blooming pillar type rose. 

Explorer pink 1.8 m May be trained as a climber. 

Simon Fraser medium medium semi- 2 ft. light Continually covered in blooms all season. 

Explorer pink double 0.6 m Low growing compact plant. 

Sir Thomas Lipton pure medium semi- 7 ft. strong Tall rose with pure white, large fragrant flowers. 

Hybrid Rugosa white double 2 m Leathery foliage; repeat blooms all season 

Theresa Bugnet r medium medium double 6 ft. medium Tall shrub with full flowers; repeats all season. 

Hybrid Rugosa pink 1.8 m Orange-scarlet fall foliage; orange rose hips. 

Topaz Jewel butter medium double 5 ft. medium Butter to cream yellow flowers. 

Hybrid Rugosa yellow 1.5 m First ever blooming yellow rugosa rose. 

Wild Rose of Alberta r medium small single 3 ft. medium Floral emblem of Alberta; repeats all season. 

Rosa spp. pink 1 m Native plant is also called Prickly Rose. 

William Baffin c medium medium semi- 7 ft. light Popular climbing rose. Prolific bloomer that 

Explorer r pink double 2 m repeats from June until frost. 

William Booth c pink medium single 5 ft. light Continuous blooms from summer to frost. 

Explorer 1.5 m Trailing growth habit.; disease resistant. 

Winnipeg Parks r deep medium double 2 ft. medium Popular hardy, low growing rose. 

Parkland pink 0.6 m Everblooming. 

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roSeS tenDer roSeS 

All Tender Roses, Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, Grandiflora, 

Miniature, and Climbing Roses, etc. carry a seasonal 

guarantee only. Tender Roses are not guaranteed 

to overwinter. 

Tender roses, are very popular and add beauty, colour, 

and fragrance to gardens. They can basically be grown 

like an annual in the open garden or on patios in pots. If 

you choose to use them as a patio plant make sure you 

sink the pots in the ground in the winter to give the roses 

a chance of winter survival. 

Planting and Care: 

Tender roses require a sunny location and well-drained, 

slightly acidic soil and respond well to adequate watering 

and fertilizing. For information on planting please see the 

Planting Guide on p. . If your plant is a grafted rose then 

plant the graft union about 4 in. (10cm) below ground 

level. Plant non-grafted roses with the top of the root ball 

at ground level. To reduce foliage diseases keep the soil 

evenly moist without wetting the leaves. Fertilize with one 

spring application of Smartcote Rose Food or use a liquid 

concentrate like Schultz Rose Food applied once a month 

from May to mid-August. 

Pruning: 

Remember to trim out one third of the grey stems in the 

fall. Trim out the dead stem tips in the spring as well. Cut 

out all damaged, dead, and diseased wood. To encourage 

re-bloom , prune back spent flower stems to just above 

the ‘five-leaflet’ leaf. Remember, some tender roses are 

seasonal and do not re-bloom. 

Winter Protection for Tender Roses: 

To protect against Chinook and cold damage, help tender 

roses prepare for winter. Reduce watering in fall to 

allow plant growth to slow down and harden off. In late 

fall, just before ground freezes, water the plant generously. 

After the ground has frozen, cut back to about 

8-10" (20-25cm), place a rose cone, a large tree pot with 

the bottom removed, or a heavy, waxed cardboard box 

over top of it; and fill the box with vermiculite, peat moss, 

straw, sawdust, or dry leaves. Cover the top with cloth, 

not plastic, until early May. In spring cover temporarily 

if frost is expected. While this method is no guarantee 

of rose survival, it has been an effective overwintering 

method for many tender roses in Calgary. 

Tender roses are placed into different categories or 

classes which include Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, Grandiflora, 

Miniature, Climbing, Old Fashioned, English and Dream 

types. 

Hybrid Teas are the most popular worldwide. They 

have long pointed buds with straight stems. These roses 

are typically seen at florist shops. They will require winter 

protection. 

Floribunda Roses are bred by crossing hybrid teas and 

Polyanthas (typically a single-flowered rose type). Floribundas 

are ever-blooming, flower in clusters, and are generally 

shorter plants than hybrid teas. They are a little hardier than 

hybrid teas but still require winter protection. 

Grandiflora Roses are hybrids bred from floribundas 

and hybrid teas. Their blossoms are larger than floribundas 

and slightly smaller than hybrid teas. Again, they flower 

in clusters and resemble hybrid teas in form with longer 

stems than floribundas. Suitable for cutting. 

Miniature Roses are ever-blooming with small flowers 

that look Similar in form to hybrid teas. They are usually 

quite short - 6-18 in.(15-45cm). Due to their short height 

they are easier to overwinter than other non-hardy roses. 

There are not that many miniatures noted for their fragrance. 

They can make good houseplants as well if given 

bright light and cool conditions. 

Climbing Roses can have parents that are floribundas 

or hybrid teas. They normally bloom on last year’s growth 

which will need protection over the winter. You can try to 

bend the stems over into a trench and cover them with a 

mulch. Even with extra protection, tender climbing roses 

can be quite a challenge to over-winter in our area., 

therefore most Calgary gardeners prefer to plant hardy 

climbing or rambling roses. Explorer roses such as John 

Cabot, John Cabot, Henry Kelsey, or William Baffin, are 

much hardier, will bloom reliably and can easily be trained 

as climbers. 

Old Fashioned or Old Garden include various 

species and cultivars that generally bloom early in the 

season. They were quite popular before hybrid teas 

were developed in the late 1800’s. 

English or David Austin have become quite popular. 

Hybrids between old fashioned and hybrid tea roses, they 

are mostly fragrant with repeat blooms. 

Dream Roses were a new introduction in 2001. They are 

very disease resistant and vigorous with repeating hybrid 

tea type flowers.

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Q: How do I get rid of dog spots? 

A: Dog spots are brown or yellow patches edged with dark 

green and are a very common lawn problem. The main 

reason for the dead grass is the high nitrogen and salt 

content in the dog’s urine. This creates a burn exactly like 

over-fertilizing. As the nitrogen dilutes towards the edge 

of the spot it actually feeds the grass, resulting in the 

green areas. The best way to deal with this is to heavily 

water the area to flush out the excess nitrogen and salt. 

Gypsum, lime, or top-dressing may be applied in order to 

increase drainage. If this is a recurring problem in your 

lawn, planting a resistant grass like fescue will reduce the 

appearance of damage. 

Q: The grass under my evergreen is dead or dying. 

What can I do? 

A: Grass will not grow under spruce and other evergreens 

for a number of reasons. The tree blocks both the sunlight 

and the rain resulting in a dark, dry area. The best way to 

deal with this is to allow the spruce branches to grow to 

the ground as they would naturally. Pruning off the lower 

limbs will not encourage the grass to grow, instead it simply 

emphasizes the problem. If this pruning has already been 

done there are a few things that you can try: seed with 

a drought and shade-tolerant grass like a fescue, apply 

lime to reduce any accumulated acidity from the needles, 

water more often, or use perennials like Aegopodium or 

Lily-of-the-Valley as ground covers. The easiest thing to do 

in the long run is to lay down landscape fabric and apply 

mulch or decorative stone beneath the tree. 

Q: I have heard that a lawn needs to be dethatched? 

What does this mean and how do I do it? 

A: Thatch is a layer of undecomposed grass stems and 

roots that accumulates near the soil surface. This is a 

natural part of lawn growth and is only harmful if the 

thatch is thicker than 1/2 inch (1cm). If it is too thick the 

grass will root into the thatch, which does not have the 

LAWnS 

yoUr qUeStionS 

water holding capabilities of soil, causing the grass to dry 

out quickly in hot weather. The best ways to control thatch 

are: a spring power raking, aerating with a coring machine 

(removes plugs of earth, allowing air and moisture to help 

decompose the thatch), or top dressing with a thin layer of 

soil to help break down the thatch. Spray on products and 

micro-organisms are available to assist in dethatching by 

accelerating the decomposing process. 

Q: What can you tell me about aerating my lawn? 

A: Aerating allows oxygen into the soil; oxygen is important 

for healthy root growth which in turn is important for 

a healthy lawn. It also improves compacted soil, thatch 

problems, and clay soils. Aerating breaks up the thatch 

and loosens the soil, encouraging new deeper root growth, 

making the lawn more heat and drought tolerant. The lawn 

should be aerated in early spring and fall if using a coring 

aerator (a machine that removes plugs of soil) or anytime 

of the year if the spiking method is used (punching holes in 

the ground with a spike or metal tine). It is best to consult 

a professional if a coring method is required. 

Q: What is the difference between granular and liquid 

fertilizer? 

A: A good quality slow-release granular fertilizer will feed 

the lawn for around two months, depending on the weather 

and the brand purchased. Liquid fertilizer has a faster effect 

but it only lasts in the soil for approximately a month, 

again depending on the weather. 

LAWnS 1

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LAWnS PLAntinG & CAre 

SEEDING AND SODDING NEW LAWNS 

Preparation for a New Lawn: Prior to sowing lawn seed 

or laying sod you must first establish a desirable slope and grade 

in your yard. In order to prevent basement water problems slope 

the soil away from your house. Remember that gentle slopes 

are easier to maintain than steep slopes and that the installation 

of poured sidewalks, patios, and large trees is best done before 

planting a lawn. It is also a good idea to leave shrub and flower 

beds unsodded. This will eliminate unnecessary sod removal 

when you are ready to landscape. 

If you have less than 15-20 cm. of good quality topsoil in your yard you 

need additional soil. Purchase screened loam and spread it evenly over 

the previously graded subsoil. It is important to level and pack the soil 

surface before planting a lawn. Use a landscape rake to level the soil 

surface evenly smooth. Then, pack the soil with a lawn roller until the 

soil is firm. Finally, apply Root Grow (10-30-10) fertilizer at a rate of five 

kilograms per 100 square meters. At this point you are ready to seed 

or sod your new lawn. 

Seeding: Almost all lawns in the prairies consist of various mixtures of 

Kentucky Bluegrass and Creeping Red Fescue. Some lawn mixes also 

contain Ryegrass; this grass germinates quickly to stabilize the area, 

but dies out after the first season. As a general rule, a blend or mixture, 

under average growing conditions will prove the most successful, and 

withstand the widest range of conditions. Golden Acres supplies several 

types of excellent quality grass mix. We also carry individual cultivars 

for specific locations. 

Kentucky Bluegrass - Easy to grow in a sunny location, but suffers 

from summer heat if mowed too close. It is disease prone and requires 

more fertilizer and dethatching and does not tolerate drought. Kentucky 

Bluegrass is coarser textured than fescue, stands up better to high traffic, 

and requires more fertilizer at least twice a year. 

Creeping Red Fescue - Mixes well with other seed species such as 

Kentucky Bluegrass. It is a quick germinating, fine textured, deep green 

grass. It grows well in shade and has a medium fertilizer requirement. 

Creeping Red Fescue does not hold up as well to high traffic. Best 

results are achieved if lawns are seeded in the spring or fall following 

the directions listed below. When seeding, make sure an adequate 

supply of water is supplied. 

How Much Seed is Required: To determine how much seed 

you will need, measure the length and width of the plot to be seeded 

and multiply one measurement by the other; to calculate the area. If 

for example, the plot to be seeded is 10 m. (38 ft.) long by 8 m. (26 ft.) 

wide the area of the plot to be seeded equals 80 sq. m. (858 sq. ft.). 

Check the package of lawn seed to determine how much seed will be 

required to cover the plot in question. Do not try to spread lawn seed 

further than suggested on the package. If you skimp on lawn seed 

your lawn will look bare and unattractive. Likewise do not over seed in 

attempt to create a more dense lawn. 

1. Use a drop seeder to evenly spread 2.5 kg. of seed over 100 

square meters. It is best to set the spreader at half this rate and apply 

the seed in two passes at right angles to each other.

2. After seeding apply a thin layer of peat moss over the entire 

area. This helps retain moisture and holds the seed to ensure a quality 

product. 

3. Lay sod, usually purchased in 50 centimeter by 2 meter rolls, so 

that the end seams are staggered. Be sure to fit the seams together tightly. 

Trim the sod with a sharp knife where it meets sidewalks or other objects 

and fill in any gaps with soil or peat moss. Roll the sod with a lawn roller 

to ensure good contact between the grass roots and the soil. Water the 

newly sodded area thoroughly, two to three hours per area, three to four 

times per week. Keep the sod consistently moist until there are significant 

signs of new growth. 

CARING FOR ESTABLISHED LAWNS: 

Spring Clean-Up: Once the snow has melted, the ground has thawed, 

and the soil has dried enough to cultivate, it is time to prepare your lawn 

for spring. 

1. Remove dead grass, thatch, leaves, and debris from your lawn with 

a hand or power rake. For best results rake your lawn twice in directions 

that are at right angles to each other. 

2. Apply a high nitrogen, slow release fertilizer; spreading it evenly over 

the entire lawn. Consult Golden Acre staff for information on the various 

types of lawn fertilizer we sell and the recommended fertilizer application 

rates. Weed and Feed fertilizers and weed sprays such as Killex are most 

effective when applied during warm weather when weeds are actively 

growing. 

3. Water the entire lawn thoroughly so that the water penetrates to 

a depth of 10 to 15 cm. This encourages the development of a deep 

root system which is capable of maintaining the grass during dry spells. 

Lawns become green when soil warms up; south exposures will green 

up more quickly than north exposures. To maintain this spring green 

appearance continue to fertilize and water your lawn throughout the 

summer months. 

Fertilizing: For best results fertilize your lawn four times a year: early 

spring (April-May), early summer (June-July), late summer (August- 

September), and early fall (September-October). Fall fertilizer applications 

are important. The slow release, low nitrogen fertilizer you apply in the fall 

develops strong roots which enables the grass to over winter well. Fall 

fertilizers are stored in the root system over the winter and provide nutrients 

for early spring growth. For this reason the fall is also a good time to control 

perennial weeds. As nutrients are being stored in the root system of your 

lawn, herbicides can likewise be moved into the extensive root systems 

of perennial weeds. Spring and summer fertilizer applications replace 

the nitrogen you remove constantly, every time you mow your lawn. A 

constant source of suitable nutrients and adequate moisture is all your 

lawn requires to remain green and actively growing. 

Watering: All garden plants, including your lawn, require regular irrigation. 

Less frequent, deep watering is better than light, frequent waterings. 

Except during rainy periods, water your lawn once a week for 1-2 hours 

per area. 

Mowing: In the spring, once your lawn has grown to about 5 cm tall, it is 

time to start mowing. Set the mower to cut at a height of 4-6 cm and mow 

the lawn. It is a good practice to cut the lawn before the mower has to cut 

off more than 2 cm. Don’t mow your lawn in the same direction every time 

you mow. By mowing in the opposite direction to your last mow you can 

obtain a more even cut and prevent lines form forming in your lawn. If you 

are meticulous about your lawn mow it twice. By mowing twice, in opposite 

directions, you can attain an evenly cut, manicured lawn. 

Preparing Your Lawn for Winter: A little preparation in the fall 

encourages early spring growth in your lawn. As the days get shorter 

and the temperatures drop your lawn will stop growing. Now is the time 

to mow your lawn for one last time. Set your mower to cut 1-2 cm lower 

than normal, mow the entire lawn, apply a slow release nitrogen winter 

formulation fertilizer, and then water the entire lawn thoroughly. This will 

ensure an ample supply of nutrients and moisture for early spring growth. If 

fall turns into an Indian Summer and the lawn dries out, continue watering 

your lawn until freeze up. Remember to drain outside taps or any items 

that are stored outside; for example, sprinklers, nozzles, or hoses. These 

articles can be seriously damaged by freezing water. 

Renovating Old Lawns: Older, poorly cared for lawns will eventually 

require renovation. To renovate such lawns, aerate the entire lawn using 

a plug removing core aerator; rather than one that simply slices holes. 

This enables air, water, and nutrients to penetrate the soil surface to reach 

the root zone. Over the surface of the area, evenly spread a thin (1-2 cm 

thick) coat of peat moss, topsoil or Soil Booster. Using a grass seeder, 

spread lawn seed at a rate of 1.5 kg per 100 square meters over the 

entire area. Now fertilizer the area with a high nitrogen lawn food following 

the manufacturer’s recommended application rate. Finally water the area 

thoroughly; allowing 2-3 hours per area. The combined growth of the old 

grass and the newly seeded grass will produce a quality lawn you can 

be proud of. 

Turfgrass Terms: 

SPECIES - a group of plants that are able to interbreed such as Kentucky 

Bluegrass (Poa pratensis), or Creeping Red Fescue (Festuca rubra). 

CULTIVARS - cultivated varieties including Baron, Fylking, Glade, Nugget 

or Regent of Kentucky Bluegrass 

BLEND - a combination of seeds of 2 or more cultivars of a single turfgrass 

species such as Kentucky bluegrass 

MIXTURE - a combination of seeds of 2 or more species such as 

Kentucky Bluegrass and Creeping Red Fescue 

Lawn Rollers 

& 

Fertilizer Spreaders 

are available 

for rent at our store. 

Ask at Customer 

Service for more 

details. 

LAWnS 1

LAnDSCAPinG 

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LAnDSCAPinG DeSiGn tiPS 

The general principles for good yard and garden design remain 

the same no matter where in the world you are landscaping. 

Landscaping involves the creation of an attractive plant display in 

such a way that the available space is used economically. Listed 

below are the general considerations or basic rules necessary to 

design a landscape that suits your particular needs. 

1. Organize yourself by preparing a working design on paper 

first. It is much easier to move trees and shrubs around on 

paper than to transplant misplaced plants later. 

2. Consider the requirements for maintenance-free landscaping 

in the planning stage. Weeding and watering can be reduced 

considerably if you plan ahead. By using landscape 

fabrics, lawn edgings, and ground covers weeding is much 

less and easier. Installed soaker lines or underground 

sprinkler systems not only reduce watering requirements 

but also considerably reduce water wastage. The result of 

planning ahead and installing these labor saving devices 

is a more attractive landscape with reduced maintenance 

requirements. 

3. Use natural angles and curves in construction and planting 

rather than straight lines. Straight lines are monotonous in 

flat, regular, rectangular yards. 

4. Use plant material to cover unattractive foundations, corners 

and fences. Planting in this way creates a natural looking 

landscape. 

5. Avoid overplanting, one of the biggest problems in home 

landscaping. Overplanting leads to the need for extensive 

pruning or even the removal of some plants once the 

landscape matures. Overplanting occurs when fast results 

are desired, when you compensate for an initial lack of color, 

and when you fail to foresee the ultimate size and shape of 

small, young plants. 

6. Create interesting landscapes by grouping similar plants 

into compact groups or by grouping unlike plants into 

complementary arrangements. In the latter case space the 

plants further apart, allowing room for each plant to develop 

individually. Avoid planting single specimens in a haphazard 

manner. 

7. Arrange plants so that their colors contrast or complement 

one another. Plan for color during the dormant season 

by using at least one-third evergreen material. Use plant 

material which has attractive fall leaf color or winter stem 

color. Burning Bush and Red Osier Dogwood are respective 

examples. 

8. Use perennial and annual flowers, in combination with 

trees and shrubs, to add color during the growing season. 

Do not attempt to replace trees and shrubs with perennial 

and annual flowers. 

9. Consider the different microclimates within your yard. Select 

site specific plants tolerant of the various conditions in 

your yard. The Golden Acre staff will be glad to assist you 

in selecting plant material for the sunny, shady, or windy 

location in your yard.

XeriSCAPinG 

In spite of the unusually wet spring of 2005, Southern Alberta 

remains very dry. We need several years of above normal 

precipitation spread throughout the year to replenish ground 

moisture. Intelligent and responsible water usage is required if we 

wish to have beautiful and productive gardens and landscapes. 

This section is a brief guide on gardening in our generally dry 

conditions. 

Lawns 

Dry weather can take its toll on lawns in particular, or at least on 

the person caring for the lawn. Nobody likes to see his or her lush 

green grass slowly become sparse and brown. There are ways of 

coping with this problem instead of simply giving up. In order to 

conserve water the following steps can be followed. 

Know Your Irrigation System 

Maintain your irrigation system and use it effectively. Make sure 

sprinkler heads are working properly and not leaking or wasting 

water. Avoid having heads spray onto the pavement or road. To 

find out exactly how much water you are putting down place empty 

margarine containers on the lawn to catch the water. Time how long 

it takes to fill the containers with ½ inch of water. Irrigate twice as 

long to provide sufficient moisture: about 1 in. of water. If surface 

run-off occurs, stop irrigating that area until water soaks in then 

water again until the area has received about 1 in. and is soaked 

to a depth of about 4-6 in. (10-15cm). Reduce evaporation; water 

at night or in the early morning. 

Strengthen Your Grass 

Even when there are no watering restrictions, infrequent deep 

waterings are recommended in order to help create stronger, 

deeper root systems. Most lawns can easily wait 7 days or longer 

between waterings. Avoid a set schedule and prevent the lawn 

from ‘expecting’ water at a certain time. Wait until you footprints 

are easily visible in the grass and/or the lawn takes on a blue-green 

color. If there are no water restrictions apply about 1 inch of water 

across the entire lawn, moving your sprinkler as necessary. Wait 

until you see signs of water stress again (footprints, blue-gray color) 

before re-watering. If only small areas are dry then hand water with 

a hose or watering can. Another way to help your grass prepare 

for drought situations is to avoid heavy nitrogen fertilization. Lush, 

fast-growing grass requires more water and fares poorly in dry 

weather. Apply nitrogen fertilizer once in the spring, once in midsummer, 

and once in the fall. Water thoroughly after fertilizing. It 

also helps to let your lawn grow to about 3 in. The longer grass 

blades create more food and build stronger grass plants. Finally, 

and this may be the hardest task of all, try to accept the fact that 

you lawn may be less than perfect. 

Preparing the Lawn for Water Restrictions 

If water restrictions are expected avoid planting new lawns by seed 

or with sod and reduce or cease any planned nitrogen applications. 

To help conserve moisture keep your grass as long as your mower 

will allow. Do not keep the soil moist in anticipation of a drought; 

instead water deeply as infrequently as possible; your lawn will be 

stronger going into any drought situation. 

What to do During a Drought 

Don’t Panic! If you have prepared your grass by following the 

above instructions it should make it through the dry spell. The 

lawn may not appear as attractive as you would like but it is still 

alive. In order to help the grass through this stressful period 

restrict foot traffic as this can easily damage the plants. Do not 

apply chemicals (fertilizers, pesticides, or fungicides) and stop 

mowing once the grass stops growing. In a worst case scenario 

(total water restrictions) the grass will begin to go dormant. Again, 

don’t panic! Kentucky Bluegrass can and does survive a whole 

summer without irrigation. Naturally, the lawn will be brown but 

it is not dead. Fine fescue lawns will also survive in a dormant 

state but tall fescue and perennial rye grass do not fare as well. 

Once the drought is over and watering goes back to normal the 

grass will begin to return to its original state, greening up quite 

quickly in the case of Kentucky Bluegrass. 

XeriSCAPinG 1 1

XeriSCAPinG 

1 2 

XeriSCAPinG GArDenS 

Vegetable Gardening in Dry Weather 

Unfortunately vegetables, unlike your lawn, do not go dormant 

when water supplies run low. However, there are a number of 

methods you can employ to reduce the water requirements. 

Amend the Soil 

Adding soil amendments such as compost or manure will increase 

the quality of the soil along with water retention. If you plan on 

applying manure use a composted not raw form in the fall, allowing 

it to break down further over the winter. Zeolite’s open 

structure is especially effective in retaining water and breaking 

down clay soils. 

Irrigation 

The best form of irrigation for vegetable gardens is drip or trickle 

irrigation that can reduce water usage by about 50%. The soaker 

hose, not to be confused with the sprinkler hose, is the best 

method of drip irrigation, allowing water to seep out the length 

of the hose at a slow and constant rate. To ensure that you do 

not overwater check the soil regularly. If it holds together when 

you squeeze it in your hand it is moist and watering should be 

delayed. 

There are a few other methods that can be applied to save water. 

Plant in blocks instead of rows; this creates shade for the roots 

and reduces evaporation. Be vigilant with the weeding since 

weeds compete with your vegetables for water. Finally, a layer 

of mulch can help conserve moisture. Place organic material on 

the garden to a depth of 2 to 3 inches (the larger the particle of 

mulch the deeper the layer) in late spring. The best mulch is a 

thin layer of grass clippings with no herbicide or weed and feed 

or pesticides or even fertilizer recently applied. Allow each 

layer to dry before adding more. 

Flowers 

The most important element in growing flowers in a dry area or 

in practicing water conservation is the soil. Most flowers perform 

poorly on heavy clay as oxygen levels are lower around their 

roots. On the other hand, sandy soils do not hold water well. 

If either is the case you can begin to improve your soil through 

the addition of compost and/or peat moss and zeolite. If this is 

your first year amending either an old, uncared for bed or a new 

poor garden, plant annuals the first season. It will be easier to 

cultivate and incorporate organic material after the plants are 

killed by frost. 

In addition to having a good growing medium it is important to 

know your plants. Make sure you plant flowers that are appropriate 

for the place you want them to grow. For example, plant 

shade-tolerant plants like canterbury bells or columbines in shady 

areas or plant yarrow or baby’s breath in dry, sunny areas. This 

way you won’t be fighting to keep a plant that likes it moist alive 

in a dry area and vice versa. 

Annuals & Bulbs 

Most annuals will do well in dry gardens that have decent soil, 

needing only one to two inches of water per week. The best 

bedding out plants for hot areas are marigolds, zinnias, alyssum, 

and bachelor’s button. Spring-flowering bulbs do most of their 

growing when the season is moister and cooler. 

Know Your Plants 

If you know when your vegetables need the most water 

you can target them at that time, shifting focus from one 

in favor of another if necessary. The following is a partial 

list of crops and when they require water the most: 

Broccoli, Cabbage, and Cauliflower 

- Generally need water most of the season. Water use 

is highest when the heads are forming. 

Beans 

- need a constant supply of water. These plants uses 

the most water of any garden vegetable. On dry windy 

days blossoms can easily fall. To tell if your beans 

are experiencing water stress look at the leaves. If 

they are grayish then apply water. 

Carrots, Radishes, Etc. 

- need a constant supply of water otherwise they will 

crack, get knobby, and/or take on hot flavor. 

Lettuce, Spinach, and other Leafy Vegetables 

- water use is most during head development but for 

quality they need a constant supply of water. 

Onion, Garlic 

- need plenty of moisture. 

Peas 

- need lots of water especially during pod growth 

Potatoes 

- dry conditions cause tubers to become knobby 

- supply adequate moisture during and after 

flowering 

Tomatoes and Peppers 

- tomatoes and peppers actually have a lower watering 

requirement than many vegetables and tend to get 

overwatered. Too much watering can lead to blossom 

end rot where the bottom of the fruit turns black 

and sunken. Consistent watering is best for these 

plants.

XeriSCAPinG treeS & SHrUBS 

Of all our garden plants trees and shrubs are perhaps the most 

neglected. We are not normally aware that they face the same 

sorts of troubles that our showier garden plants face. A tree under 

drought stress, and many of them 

are in Calgary, is not as obvious Leaf Curl 

as a dried up petunia. It can take 

up to two years for the full impact 

of drought to become noticeable 

in a tree. Some things you should 

look for are wilting, leaf curl, and 

yellowing. Deciduous trees may 

develop leaf scorch, brown-edged 

leaves, and/or browning between 

leaf veins. Evergreen needles may 

turn yellow, red, or even purple and 

browning may be seen throughout 

the needle. Drought stress may not Leaf Browning 

kill the tree but can severely weaken 

it, leaving it open to insect infestations 

or disease as in the case of 

birch leaf miners. 

Watering 

Most trees in Calgary are underwatered 

but following these steps will 

help to give your tree the moisture it 

needs. Water to a depth of 12 inches 

by saturating the soil from the trunk 

or main stems out to and beyond dripline, (the outer edge of the 

branches). In the case of evergreens, water three to five feet 

beyond the dripline. Slow, long watering encourages deep roots 

which leads to better drought tolerance. If or when there are 

dry periods trees should take precedence over your lawn. 

A 25-year old tree takes 25 years to replace – a lawn takes 

a few months. Move the sprinkler/soaker hose around during 

watering to ensure total coverage. To water the entire root area 

at once, use a long soaker hose coiled several times around the 

tree and out towards the dripline and beyond. Trees generally 

need two to three deep waterings per month following the above 

guidelines to receive adequate moisture. 

Winter Watering and Mulching 

As a result of our warm dry winters and lack of snow cover our 

trees and shrubs need periodic watering during the winter. Generally, 

water one to two times per month October though April 

on a warm day when the ground is not frozen but when freezing 

temperatures are forecast. Follow the above summer watering 

method. As water freezes in the soil, it will keep roots from drying 

out and stabilize winter soil temperatures, improving winter 

survival. It also helps to mulch the root area of plants that are 

exposed to warm winter sun and Chinook winds. Mulch protects 

shallow roots from winter damage and prevents premature spring 

growth. 

Planting Trees in Dry Periods 

Plant trees during dry periods as you would during normal 

weather - just be careful not to let them dry out. Plant smaller 

trees (2 in. caliper or less for deciduous or 5-6 

ft. tall for evergreens). This helps reduce financial 

risk if any are lost. This size of tree usually 

adapts better to dry weather than a larger one. 

Use Myke Tree & Shrub growth supplement to 

help establish vigorous root systems that will 

stand up to drought in the future. 

Needle Browning 

Trees & Shrubs That Perform 

Well in Dry Areas 

Deciduous Trees 

Bur Oak – Quercus macrocarpa 

Chokecherry - Prunus virginiana var. 

Elm - Ulmus americana ‘Brandon’ 

Green Ash - Fraxinus pennslyvanica 

Russian Olive - Elaeagnus angustifolia 

Snowbird Hawthorn - Crataegus mordensis 

Evergreen Trees and Shrubs 

Junipers – Juniperus spp. - especially blue upright and 

blue spreading types 

Pine - Pinus spp. ie. Bristlecone, Mugo, Ponderosa, 

Scots 

Spruce - Colorado Blue (Picea pungens ‘Glauca’) 

Deciduous Shrubs 

Caragana – Caragana spp. 

Golden Currant – Ribes aureum 

Honeysuckle - Lonicera spp., Diervilla lonicera 

Pavement Roses - Rosa rugosa hybrids 

Preston Lilac and Late Lilac – Syringa spp. 

Sea Buckthorn - Hippophae ramnoides 

Silver Buffaloberry – Shepherdia argentea 

Snowberry - Symphoricarpos albus 

Wolf Willow - Elaeagnus commutata 

XeriSCAPinG 1

SoiL 

1 

SoiL yoUr qUeStionS 

Q: What is the difference between vermiculite and 

perlite? 

A: Perlite is a naturally occurring volcanic rock that 

expands when heated. Vermiculite is also a mineral and it 

too expands when heated. The finished expanded product 

is what you buy from the store. Both provide aeration and 

drainage and both retain water for release later. Perlite 

has a neutral pH and lasts longer than vermiculite which 

holds more water than perlite. 

Q: Why should I use manure? What is the best 

kind? 

A: Manure contains the primary nutrients (nitrogen, 

phosphorous, and potassium) but in small amounts and 

should be supplemented with fertilizer. Manures are, 

however, usually an excellent source of vital secondary 

elements like sulphur, calcium, and magnesium and 

micronutrients such as zinc, boron, iron, and copper. 

Manure’s most important use is as a soil conditioner; it 

retains moisture in sandy soil and helps aerate clay soil. 

The best manure for a spring application is pre-composted 

mushroom manure. It is better to apply steer and sheep 

manure in the fall, allowing it to compost during the 

winter. 

Q: What is the best mulch to use and why? How 

do I apply it? 

A: Putting down a layer of shredded wood, wood 

chips, or bark on your garden beds is good for a 

number of reasons. Mulch helps keep the soil an 

even temperature in summer and winter, it aids in 

moisture retention, it inhibits weed growth, and it 

makes your garden look more attractive. The best 

time to apply or top up your mulch is in the fall after 

the first hard frost but it can be put down any time 

at a depth of 2-4 inches. Shredded wood/bark is 

probably the best choice as it holds moisture better 

than wood chips and the lower layers decay more 

readily, adding composted material directly to the 

garden beds. 

Q: What is the difference between loam and topsoil? 

A: The word ‘topsoil’ actually means whatever soil is found 

on the surface of the land in any particular region. This ‘soil’ 

can range from mostly sand to mostly clay. Loam falls in the 

middle, containing clay, silt, sand, and organic materials. 

This is what is usually meant by ‘topsoil’. Commercial 

topsoil is usually loam. 

Q: Why is there no soil in potting soil? 

A: Technically ‘soil’ refers to any growing medium which 

means that potting soil can be considered a ‘soil’. What 

most people mean to ask is “Why is there no loam in 

potting soil?” Potting soil is specifically formulated for 

growing plants in containers. It is much lighter in texture, 

containing a mix of fine and coarse particles which allow 

for drainage and air circulation. Loam, though excellent in 

the garden and in farmers’ fields, holds too much water and 

not enough air for successful container gardening. Most 

potting soils are made up of peat moss, vermiculite, and 

perlite but some will also have earthworm castings, water 

retaining crystals for hanging baskets, and fertilizer. 

Q: What are the benefits of adding compost to my 

garden? 

A: The most important thing compost adds is organic 

material. This improves the way water interacts with the 

soil. For example, in sandy soils compost helps retain 

water while in clay soils it actually improves drainage. 

Compost also innoculates the soil which means that it 

adds large quantities of beneficial microbes like bacteria 

and fungi. These microbes extract nutrients from the 

mineral part of the soil and eventually pass the nutrients 

on to plants. For further information, particularly on how 

to start and maintain your own compost, please see our 

composting section. 

Q: What is Zeolite soil conditioner? 

A: Zeolite is a natural volcanic mineral that does not break 

down like organic material. Once you work it into the soil it 

will remain active for years. The sharp edges of the zeolite 

break down clay and allow air and moisture to both reach 

and leave the soil. When zeolite is turned into the soil its 

open structure interacts with other minerals to improve 

the soil. It also balances soil pH by locking away alkali 

contaminants, allowing nutrients such as nitrogen, calcium, 

iron, and magnesium to reach the plants. Zeolite will lock 

away water, releasing it during dry spells as well.

ComPoStinG 

What is composting? 

Composting is a natural biochemical process of decay in which 

bacteria, fungi, worms, and other small organisms in the soil 

decompose organic matter. This breakdown of kitchen and 

yard waste results in a dark, earth-smelling, nutrient-rich, soil 

conditioner known as humus or compost. 

Why compost? 

Composting is an easy way to return organic material to the soil. 

It conditions soil and improves plant growth. Another reason 

for composting is to reduce the amount of organic matter going 

to landfill sites. Kitchen and yard waste makes up about 33% 

of residential solid waste. If you compost, and also recycle 

newspapers, bottles and cans; it will help reduce the amount of 

household garbage going to landfill sites. 

Compost Enclosures 

In the city, most people want a compost pile enclosed, to keep it 

tidy and inconspicuous. This can be as simple as wooden slats, 

with spaces between for air circulation, or chicken wire, supported 

by wooden fence posts at the corners. There are also plastic 

compost bins, made from recycled 

plastic, which are unobtrusive, tidy, and 

retain heat and moisture. Ideal size for 

a compost pile is about a metre (yard) 

cube. Many people have two bins 

side-by-side, so that they can add to 

one while the other full one is finishing 

the composting process. It should be 

in an area with good air circulation, 

and a sunny, warm spot will enable 

it to work faster, but is not absolutely 

necessary. In a cool, shady spot it will 

just take longer. 

Starting a Compost Pile 

Start with a layer of brush cuttings 

from pruning, or coarse vegetable 

matter. Add layers of grass clippings 

and other fresh, green material, then 

layers of dry, brown material, such 

as sawdust, tea bags, coffee grounds 

or dry leaves. Manures, fertilizers, 

compost activators or soil will speed 

up decomposing assuming the pile is 

kept damp but not wet. 

Maintaining a Compost Pile 

Composting requires good air circulation, the material must be 

damp but not wet, and there must be a layer of green, damp 

material and dry, brown material. The pile must be turned 

periodically to enable oxygen to reach the material in the centre. 

It should be covered if there is a lot of rain. If the compost pile 

has an unpleasant odor, then it is too wet. Be sure it has good 

drainage at the bottom, add more dry material, cover to protect 

from rain, and turn more frequently. You may also need to sprinkle 

it with water if the weather is hot and dry. The heat developing 

in the pile kills bacteria, and also indicates that decomposition 

is taking place. Cover kitchen wastes with soil or other material 

to avoid attracting pets and rodents. Plastic containers with lids 

prevent this problem. 

What You Can Compost 

Kitchen food wastes such as vegetable trimmings, fruit peels, 

tea bags, grass clippings, dead plants, pruning clippings and 

sawdust. 

What You Can Not Compost 

Meat, fat or bones. Weeds with seeds present that could 

germinate where you don't want them. Grass clippings that have 

been sprayed with weed killer. 

Using the Compost 

Usually a compost pile is started in the spring, when there is a 

great deal of refuse to clean up. Organic matter is added until 

the pile contains as much as it can and still have room to turn. 

By fall this is a crumbly, dark, earthy soil - like material that is 

very useful to condition flower and vegetable beds, to use as a 

mulch for winter protection or moisture preservation, or improve 

the soil for new beds. When you have used the compost you have 

made, fall clean-up material can be used to start a new batch. It 

will decompose until the weather becomes too cold, then begin 

again in the spring and become the basis of the pile for the next 

year. For further information, there are several good books on 

composting in the bookstore. 

ComPoStinG 1

• lawns • flowergarden • vegetable gardens • evergreens • trees • shrubs 

• planters • indoor tropical plants • deck planters • lawn patch • fridge odors 

• odor control in cat litter and dog runs • compost pile • chemical spill clean-up 

use anywhere in the garden and beyond 

Benefits 

- overall soil characteristics 

- water holding capability 

- absorbs toxins from the soil 

- loosens and aerates hard clay soils 

- reduces amounts of fertilizer used 

- naturally adjusts the pH of the soil 

- remains stable and does not break down 

- odor absorbing qualities 

- accelerates established root zones 

- lowers nutrient leachate loss 

- 100% natural and ecologically safe 

Results 

- stronger, deeper more robust root zones 

- maintainance in hot weather is easier with less 

watering time 

- reduced fertilizing costs 

- healthier and more productive plants 

- greatly improved water retention in soils 

- reduced salts and toxic metals in soil 

- controls odors in your compost bin 

Zeolite has many different uses in and around 

your home and garden

nUtrientS zeoLite 

ZEOLITE, not to be confused with ZONALITE, has been used 

in industrial, agricutural, and livestock feed applications for a 

number of years but is relatively new to the gardening 

community. Zeolite is available at Golden Acre in it's 

pure form, in soil-less planting mixes and in Gypszeolite 

(a blend of gypsum and Zeolite) 

Zeolite is an extraordinary product with a multitude of 

uses above and beyond gardening, many of which are 

listed below. It is a natural volcanic mineral formed when 

volcanic ash was deposited in ancient alkali lakes. The ash 

interacted with the salts in the 

water, creating 

zeolite minerals. 

These minerals 

have an unusual 

c r y s t a l l i n e 

structure; trace 

minerals like 

p o t a s s i u m , 

calcium, iron, 

and magnesium 

a r e a r r a n g e d 

t h r o u g h o u t 

the mineral in 

honeycombs of 

c h a n n e l s a n d 

cavities. This open structure greatly increases the surface are 

within the mineral, giving it amazing absorbing capabilities. One 

of the most, if not the most, important aspect of zeolites is that 

they are able to exchange positively charged ions allowing them 

to absorb harmful elements from the water, soil, or air. Zeolites 

can remove calcium from hard water by exchanging sodium 

ions for calcium ions resulting in soft water and allowing natural 

calcium to be available to the plant. Zeolites can do this with 

many heavy metals and, because of these properties, are used 

extensively in industrial and environmental applications. 

Since zeolite is a mineral it does not break down like leaves, 

sawdust, or other organic material and it performs better than 

either gypsum or sand. Once zeolite has been worked into the 

soil it will remain for years absorbing any harmful or toxic 

elements. The sharp edges of its silica structure break up clay and 

increase air and moisture movement through the soil. Zeolites’ 

open channels and cavities increase it’s surface area more 

than 100 times greater than sand allowing for excellent water 

absorption when wet and water release when the soil around it 

begins to dry. 

Horticultural Use 

Zeolite can be used in all gardening situations. For tropical plants 

incorporate 20% zeolite into your soil-less mix to eliminate 

excess salts from fertilizers. It can be especially helpful in the 

lawn, increasing the roots of the grass, which means greater 

drought tolerance and faster recovery time from damage and 

disease. By opening the pores in the grass it softens the blades 

resulting in a more cushiony lawn. For lawns scatter 20 kg per 10 

m 2 /3530 ft 2 . For garden beds use 20 

kg per 10 m 2 /353 ft 2 . When applying 

to planters mix in about ½ an inch. 

The water-holding capacity of the soil 

will be greatly increased. Harmful 

metals and other elements will be 

locked away allowing the plants to 

receive the nutrients that they need. 

Clay soils will become lighter and 

more workable and much more air 

will reach the roots of the plants. 

Animal and Pet Uses 

Zeolite will create a healthier environment for 

your animals by locking away ammonia and 

other harmful and/or disagreeable chemicals. It 

is commonly used in horse stalls and feed lots for 

odor control. You can add it to cat litter to greatly 

reduce that lovely ammonia aroma and to deodorize 

doghouses and/or dog runs. Work in 1/4 inch layer 

prior to re-seeding dog spots to neutralize the area. 

Zeolites can be used in bird and small rodent cages 

and even for chinchilla baths. Finally, it is excellent 

for absorbing any pet accidents from the carpets 

or flooring. 

Household Uses 

Zeolites are excellent at absorbing odors and/or excess moisture. 

Place some in a small box as you would baking soda to reduce 

or eliminate odors in the fridge, cabinets, closets, shoe storage, 

and so on. It can eliminate freezer ice buildup by locking away 

excess moisture. A sachet placed in hockey bags, with sports 

equipment, in clothes hampers, or similar areas will greatly 

reduce odors. 

Absorbent Properties 

One of the best uses for zeolites is taking care of spills. Zeolites 

are highly absorbent and lock away chemicals, neutralizing 

dangerous materials. According to www.nationalzeolite. 

com zeolites can absorb, trap, or neutralize the following: acids, 

ammonia, antifreeze, bleach, blood, diesel fuel, Drano, gas from 

carpet glues, gasoline, lighter fluid, mold, oil, paint and paint 

thinner, many pesticides including sevin, Round-Up and Killex, 

oil stain, turpentine, WD40, and even urine. And this is only 

a partial list! There are many other spills and environmental 

contaminants that zeolites can contain and control. 

nUtrientS 1

Gypszeolites are natural minerals that do not breakdown 

like sawdust or leaves. The silica in gypszeolites breaks up 

clay soil by splitting the clay particles to allow air and moisture 

to move both ways. When gypszeolite in incorporated 

into the soil, its open structure and channels interact with 

other minerals to improve the soil. Gypszeolite's structure 

and high Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) attracts water 

and nutrients such as calcium, iron and magnesium, locking 

them up inside the gypszeolite and slowly releasing 

the water and nutrients as the plant requires them. The 

CEC of gypszeolite is 100 times greater than sand. 

Gypszeolite also reduces the soil pH as it absorbs excess 

calcium, magnesium, sodium and other alkaline-causing 

agents from the soil. When soil pH is corrected, the proper 

balance of nutrients becomes available for absorption by 

plant roots. 

This product holds moisture. Do not over water. 

Tropical Plants: Mix in 10% gypszeolite onto mix to 

eliminate salts due to excess fertilization. Makes for a 

finer rootsystem by splitting root hairs. 

Lawn: 10 kg per 100 sq. meters/1530sq. ft. 

Potting Mixes: Mix 5% gypszeolite into potting soil. 

Vegetables: Make row and slightly scatter down row, 

seed and cover. 

Bulbs, Tubers, Potatoes, and Perennials: Mix a small 

handful of gypszeolite in and around plants 

Small Trees (evergreens and shrubs up to 5 gal): one cup 

mixed in and around root zone 

Large Trees (7 gallon up to caliper trees): mix two cups 

in and around root zone 

Other Uses 

Dog Runs: Sprinkle one pound (454 grams/2 cups) per 

100 sq. ft./9.30 sq. meters) 

Gypszeolite can also be added to dog urine spots on lawn. 

Cover spot with mix of grass seed, peat moss, loam, and 

gypszeolite. 

Composting Piles: add 1-2 cups (252-454 grams) per 

layer of pile to aid in keeping odors down.

nUtrientS 

Major Elements 

(Macro Nutrients) 

Functional Uses In Plant Deficiency Symptoms 

Nitrogen (N) Growth and development of green leaves Chlorosis of older, lower leaves; stunting 

and stems; component of most proteins 

Phosphorus (P) Promotes root growth and development; Purplish coloration; stunted root growth 

energy storage and transfer within plant 

Potassium (K) Improves cold hardiness, drought tolerance Poor flowering and fruit formation; 

and disease resistance; promotes blooms brown leaf edges 

Sulphur (S) Component of 3 proteins and 2B vitamins; Chlorosis of younger leaves; stunting 

flavor of onion, garlic, and mustard; a fungicide 

Calcium (Ca) Promotes cell division, strong cell walls, Collapse of cell walls and structural failure; 

and sturdy structure curled leaf tips; stunting 

Magnesium (Mg) Component of chlorophyll; Marginal (edges) and interveinal (between 

essential for photosynthesis veins) chlorosis of older leaves 

Minor Elements 

(Micro Nutrients) 

Functional Uses In Plant 

Deficiency Symptoms 

Iron (Fe) Formation of chlorophyll Interveinal chlorosis of younger leaves 

Manganese (Mn) Helps in uptake of carbon dioxide which is Mottled interveinal chlorosis of leaves 

used for photosynthesis. 

Boron (B) Development of shoot tips and leaf bud; Tip growth die back and deformed buds 

formation and movement of sugars in plant 

Chlorine (Cl) Stimulates photosynthesis Wilting but rare because present in water 

Copper (Cu) Formation of chlorophyll and converting leaf chlorosis and shoot tip growth die 

sunlight into energy; also a fungicide back 

Molybdenum (Mo) Helps production and use of nitrogen Marginal and interveinal chlorosis of 

older leaves 

Zinc (Zn) Formation of growth hormones Mottled leaf chlorosis, little leaves; 

Rosetting 

nUtrientS 1

nUtrientS 

160 

nUtrientS 

Plant Type Nutrients Needed Some Recommended Fertilizers 

ANNUALS* 

* If using Myke® Annual & Perennial growth supplement (increases phosphorous uptake), use fertilizers with 15% or less phosphorous (5-15-5) 

Bedding Out Plants High phosphorous to Water soluble powder: Miracle Gro, Plant-Prod Flowering 

promote flowering. Liquid concentrate: Alaska MorBloom 

Granular: So-Green Rose and Flower, Smartcote Annual Food 

Hanging Baskets Treat as a bedding out Water soluble/liquid concentrate: see ‘Bedding Out Plants’ 

plant or use slow-release Granular: Smartcote Hanging Basket Food 

fertilizer in the soil. Other: Jobe’s Plant Spikes 

Seedlings/Transplants High phosphorous for root Water soluble: Plant-Prod 10-52-10 

growth; a root stimulant Liquid concentrate: Plant Starter 5-15-5 with rooting stimulant 

is often required. Granular: Bone Meal, Root Grow 

Vegetables Less emphasis on nitrogen Water soluble: Plant-Prod Tomato & Vegetable 

except for leafy vegetables. Liquid concentrate: Schultz Tomato Food 

Granular: So-Green Garden Food or Tomato Food, Vigioro Pink 

All Purpose 

Water Plants Only trace elements are Pond tablets in the water at the rate of one per month will supply 

required. the necessary nutrients. 

PERENNIALS* 

* If using Myke® Bulb or Annual & Perennial growth supplement (increases phosphorous uptake), use fertilizers with 15% or less phosphorous (5-15-5) 

Bulbs Relatively high Water soluble: Plant-Prod Flowering, Miracle Gro 

(Spring & Summer) phosphorous fertilizer to Granular: Bone Meal 

encourage roots & flowers. Note: Bloodmeal helps keep some squirrels from feeding on 

bulbs. 

Perennials Need phosphorous for a Water soluble: Plant-Prod Flowering, Miracle Gro 

strong root system and Liquid concentrate: Alaska MorBloom, Shultz All Purpose 

potassium for healthy Granular: Bonemeal, So-Green Perennial Food, Smartcote 

growth. Perennial, Miracle Gro Shake-n-Feed 

Transplanting High phosphorous to Water soluble: Plant-Prod 10-52-10 

promote root growth Liquid concentrate: Plant Starter 5-15-5 with rooting stimulant 

Granular:Root Grow or Bone Meal, So-Green Super Phosphate 

Vines Require higher levels Water soluble: Miracle Gro, Plant-Prod Flowering 

of phosphorous. Liquid concentrate: Alaska MorBloom 

Granular: So-Green Clematis & Vine, Bone Meal when planting 

Winterizing Never add nitrogen A fertilizer without nitrogen will strengthen plants for better 

in fall as it encourages 

excess leafy growth. 

winter survival: Alaska MorBloom, So-Green Muriate of Potash 

TREES & SHRUBS* 

* If using Myke® Tree & Shrub growth supplement (increases natural phosphorous uptake), use fertilizers with 15% or less phosphorous (5-15-5) 

Deciduous Balanced nutrients Water soluble: Plant-Prod All Purpose, Miracle Gro 

are necessary Liquid concentrate: Schultz All Purpose 

Granular: Smartcote Shrub & Evergreen, 

Miracle Gro Shake-n-Feed 

Other: Tree/Shrub or Fruit Stakes, Ross Root Feeder Cartridges 

Evergreens Higher in nitrogen for Water soluble: Plant-Prod Evergreen 

for green growth. A soil Granular: Green Harvest Evergreen &Tree Food, 

acidifier is beneficial. So-Green Evergreen, Smartcote Shrub & Evergreen Food 

Other: Evergreen Tree Stakes, Ross Root Feeder Cartridges 

Acidifier: Garden Sulphur, Aluminum Sulphate 

Roses Need phosphorous for Water soluble: Miracle Gro, Plant-Prod Flowering 

rooting & blooming. Liquid concentrate: Schultz Rose Food 

Granular: So-Green Rose & Flower, Smartcote Rose Food, 

Alaska MorBloom

Plant Type Nutrients Needed Some Recommended Fertilizers 

TREES & SHRUBS* (continued) 

* If using Myke® Tree & shrub growth supplement (increases natural phosphorous uptake), use fertilizers with 15% or less phosphorous (5-15-5) 

Transplanting High phosphorous; Water soluble: Plant-Prod 10-52-10 

rooting stimulant Liquid concentrate: Plant Starter 5-15-5 with rooting stimulant 

Granular: Root Grow, Bone Meal, 

Smartcote Tree & Shrub Food 

Winterizing No nitrogen after Aug. 1 A fertilizer with no nitrogen will strengthen plants & give roots 

LAWNS 

Less nitrogen slows topgrowth 

and helps plant 

prepare for fall & winter. 

a slight boost. Alaska MorBloom, So-Green Muriate of Potash 

Spring & Summer In spring and summer Liquid concentrate: CIL Golfgreen Liquid, Scotts Feed-n-Gro 

higher nitrogen is required Granular: CIL Golfgreen, Scotts Turf Builder, 

Myke Lawn Fertilizer 

Winterizing Less nitrogen and more 

potassium strengthens 

grass plants for winter. 

Granular: CIL Winterizer, Scotts Fall-Wintercare 

HOUSEPLANTS 

nUtrientS 

Foliage Plants A balanced fertilizer Water soluble: Schultz All Purpose, Plant-Prod All Purpose 

Liquid concentrate: Schultz All Purpose 

Slow release: Jobe’s Houseplant or Fern & Ivy Spikes 

Flowering A moderately high Water soluble: Plant-Prod Flowering 

phosphorous level Liquid concentrate: Schultz All Purpose 

to promote flowering Slow release: Jobe’s Flowering Plant Spikes, Myke Indoor Plant 

African Violets Require phosphorous Liquid concentrate: Schultz African Violet 

for bloom production 

Orchids Water soluble: Schultz Orchid Food, Plant-Prod Orchid 

Cactus Cacti need less nitrogen Liquid concentrate: Schultz Cactus Food 

nUtrientS 161

BirDS 

162 

feeDinG & AttrACtinG BirDS 

More people enjoy bird watching than any other hobby except 

gardening. What a great combination; you can garden and 

enjoy the beauty and wildness of nature up close at the same 

time. Birds have four basic needs: food, water, protection from 

predators, and a place to raise their young safely. 

With water gardening becoming so popular you can be entertained 

by your fine-feathered friends in the showpiece you 

have created in your yard. The sound of gently moving water 

is extremely appealing to birds. In fact bird banders often lure 

them with dripping water. A birdbath is the easiest way to set 

up a water source in the garden. For the winter months, when 

water is not available, a bird bath heater is required, and appreciated 

by the birds. 

Plants are the most important element in the garden; to birds as 

well as to you. No matter what size your landscape is, whether 

formal or naturalistic in style, you can use plants to enhance its 

attractiveness to birds. The presence of trees or shrubs near a 

feeder is essential. Trees offer both food and protective cover 

Some of the trees and shrubs that attract birds are: 

BIRCH 

PLANT 

BLUEBERRY 

CHOKECHERRY 

COTONEASTER 

CRABAPPLE 

CRANBERRY 

COLORADO SPRUCE 

DOGWOOD 

ELDERBERRY 

HAWTHORN 

HONEYSUCKLE 

MOUNTAIN ASH 

NANKING CHERRY 

ROSES 

from both weather and predators. 

Study what groundcovers, perennials, and annuals the birds 

enjoy. Plant a sunflower and your children will enjoy the comical 

activities of birds while they eat the seeds. 

Establish a year round feeding program. Many people feed 

only in the winter months, but warm months will bring a different 

clientele to your feeders. Birds tend to scatter at nesting 

time and become less social, but the presence of a convenient 

food source can lure them to nest nearby. Try feeding different 

seeds in scattered feeders, and you will attract a variety of birds. 

Hummingbird feeders are easy to maintain, and a ready-made 

mixture is available. Hairy and downy woodpeckers, chickadees, 

and nuthatches enjoy suet in the winter months. Try 

putting suet in a pinecone as it’s natural for these gregarious 

birds, and they are quite entertaining. Save coconuts, and put 

sunflower hearts in them. Hang from a tree and chickadees, 

nuthatches, woodpeckers, and pine grosbeaks will always 

come back for more. 

ATTRACTS 

GOLDFINCHES, PINE SISKINS, CHICKADEES, AND JUNCOS 

34 SPECIES INCLUDING ROBINS, MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRDS, WAXWINGS 

43 SPECIES INCLUDING: BLUEBIRDS, ROBINS, PHEASANTS, GROUSE, PARTRIDGES 

BROWN THRASHERS, ROBINS, WAXWINGS 

NORTHERN FLICKERS, WHITE THROATED SPARROWS, WAXWINGS, AND ROBINS 

7 SPECIES EAT THE FRUIT, CEDAR WAXWINGSS, MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRD, PHEASANTS 

EXCELLENT NESTING SITE FOR ROBINS, CHICKADEES, PINE SISKINS, BLUEJAYS, 

AND PINE GROSBEAKS; ALL EAT ITS SEEDS. 

36 SPECIES EAT FRUIT INCLUDING 6 SPECIES OF THRUSHES, NORTHERN 

FLICKERS, HAIRY WOODPECKERS, SUMMER TANAGERS, EVENING GROSBEAKS, 

AND PINE GROSBEAKS. 

33 SPECIES INCLUDING WOODPECKERS, BLUEBIRDS, AND ROBINS 

18 SPECIES INCLUDING WAXWINGS 

A FAVOURITE FOR OUR FRIENDS THE HUMMINGBIRDS 

14 SPECIES INCLUDING WAXWINGS, BLUEBIRDS, PINE GROSBEAKS AND BLUE 

JAYS. 

ROBINS, MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRDS, WAXWINGS, CHICKADEES AND NUTHATCHES 

HUMMINGBIRDS AND 20 OTHER SPECIES OF BIRDS

Try speciality seeds such as black oil sunflower, sunflower hearts, 

niger seeds, cracked corn, and peanuts. You will attract more 

colourful birds such as goldfinches, pine siskins, chickadees, blue 

jays, nuthatches, woodpeckers, pine grosbeaks, and red polls. 

Birdseeds that contain mostly millet will attract sparrows in great 

numbers and scare the colourful songbirds. 

Come visit the garden sentre to see all the various types of feeders 

available. Start with one feeder away from the house, and gradually 

add new styles closer to your windows for easier viewing. A set of 

binoculars is a must for the bird lover. Eventually you will be able to 

hand feed a cheery little bird like a chickadee. Save your eggshells 

for when you rototill your vegetable garden, your soil will love it and 

so will the birds. 

Year-round Feeding Tips 

Dried or fresh fruit and baked goods (bagels, hard rolls, pizza crusts) 

are liked by many birds. Bird beaks and gullets cannot handle large 

chunks, so break items into small pieces. 

Sand or ground oyster shells are also welcomed to help their gizzards 

grind food. 

The location of the food is also important. Do not put food ‘out in 

the open’ away from protection. It makes the birds easy prey for 

hawks and cats. The best spot is to put the feeder 5 to 10 feet from 

a bush, shrub or tree. More than one feeder prevents one bird from 

monopolizing the feeder. 

A year round water supply is very beneficial. During winter water is 

very hard to find and birds need a source. 

Hummingbirds 

If you provide hummingbird feeders, you will need “nectar.” To make 

nectar, add one part sugar to four parts boiling water (boil the water 

before measuring, because some water will be lost in the process.) 

When the mixture is cool, it is ready for use. You can store extra sugar 

water in your refrigerator for up to one week, but left longer it may 

become moldy. Adding red food coloring to nectar is unnecessary 

and possibly harmful to birds. Red portals on the feeder, or even a 

NESTBOX DIMENSIONS FOR SMALL CAVITY NESTERS 

(measurements in inches with millimetres in brackets) 

Species Entrance Hole Floor Box Depth 

Bluebirds 

Eastern 1 1/2 (38) 4 x 4 (101 x 101) 10 (254) 

Mountain 1 9/16 (40) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254) 

Western 1 9/16 (40) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254) 

Chickadees 1 1/8 - 1 1/4 (29-32) 

All Species 1 1/4 (32) 4 x 4 (101 x 101) 8 (203) 

Finch 

Nuthatches 

Swallows 

Wren 

House 1 1/2 (38) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254) 

Both Species 1 1/2 (38) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254) 

Six Species 1 1/2 (38) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254) 

House 1 - 1 1/4 (25-32) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254) 

red ribbon tied on top, will attract the birds just as well. 

NOTE: Change nectar every three to five days to prevent mold 

and deadly fermentation. NEVER use honey as a sweetener. 

It readily grows mold that can injure hummingbird tongues. Do 

not put any kind of oil around feeding portals to deter bees; 

you might contaminate the nectar. If bees or wasps become a 

problem, try moving the feeder. 

Nests and eggs, clockwise from top right: 

Boreal Chickadee; House Sparrow; European Starling; 

assemblage of Bluebird eggs showing colour and size variations; 

Mountain Bluebird; Tree Swallows; House Wren; 

Black-capped Chickadee. 

BirDS 16

PeStS AnD ProBLemS 

16 

PeStS & ProBLemS iPm: A PrACtiCAL 

Many people are concerned about excess chemicals and pesticides 

in their immediate environment, made obvious by the 

increase in popularity of organically grown foods. Following an 

integrated pest management method or IPM at home will greatly 

reduce the amount of chemicals you need in your garden. For a 

more environmentally sound, organic approach IPM is the way 

to go. 

Soil 

As always, start with good soil. If you have not done so already 

incorporate up to one-third organic material like peat moss or 

compost. If you are applying aged manure on the vegetable garden 

it is best to do so in the fall, allowing it to break down over 

the winter and significantly reducing or eliminating any bacteria 

present in the manure. It also helps to add zeolite at rate of 20 

kg per 10m 2 or per 3533 ft 2 . 

Plant Resistant Varieties 

An easy way to avoid disease and fungus problems is to purchase 

resistant varieties. Many vegetables, flowers, bulbs, shrubs, and 

trees have been bred to resist certain problems. For example, 

some tomatoes are bred to resist fusarium wilt and verticillium 

wilt. The letters ‘VFN’ on their tags identifies these plants. 

Rotate Crops 

Of particular importance in reducing plant problems and subsequently 

reducing chemical use is crop rotation. If you grow a 

plant or a plant in the same family in the same area year after 

year disease-causing organisms can build up. In addition certain 

insects may lay their eggs in the fall in anticipation of a spring 

food source. It is best to cycle through three types of plants over 

three years. This will reduce the build up of disease organisms 

in the soil that affect specific plants. A sample crop rotation at 

one location would be tomatoes, peppers, and/or potatoes the 

first year, cauliflower and/or cabbage the next, and beans and/or 

peas the third year. This is only an example but be sure to check 

what family your plants belong to before rotation. Tomatoes and 

potatoes are in the same family (Solanacea) and alternating these 

crops does not help to prevent disease though it can help to a 

lesser degree with insect pests. 

Controlling Pests 

Check you plants once or twice a week. It is much easier to take 

care of a pest problem when it first appears. If you find any pest 

insects (remember not all insects are pests) or a fungus problem 

remove them by hand if possible. Pull weeds to reduce competition, 

increase airflow, and remove host plants for some insect 

pests. Handpick any large insects like caterpillars if they are in 

lower numbers. For small insects like aphids or spider mites a 

hard stream of water can dislodge them from the plant, knocking 

them to the ground and making them easy prey for ground 

beetles, centipedes, birds, or other predators. If this does not 

work try to use chemicals with a low toxicity/ low environmental 

impact. Though non-toxic or of low toxicity to ourselves, sprays 

like insecticidal soap or pyrethrins are extremely effective against 

soft-bodied insects. There are also fungicides like sulfur dust that 

are much safer to use than some chemicals. Do not forget that 

even though these pesticides are more environmentally friendly 

than others they are still pesticides; read and follow all label 

directions carefully. If all the above options fail then you can 

turn to synthetic pesticides and/or fungicides knowing you did your 

best to try other methods. Take care when using pesticides in the 

vegetable garden. Follow all instructions carefully – check how 

long you have to wait until they are safe to consume and, most 

importantly, if the plant you want to treat is not listed on the 

pesticide then that pesticide is not for that plant. You could 

damage the plant or harm yourself or both. 

Biological Controls 

It is important to recognize that not all insects are pests. Some 

are very helpful. Encourage ladybugs and their larvae to feed on 

aphid-infested plants. They can consume up to 300 aphids each 

per day. Lacewings and syrphid fly larvae are also excellent aphid 

controls. See our beneficial insect section for further information 

on the ‘good guys’ of the insect world. Wholesale spraying of 

strong chemicals will eliminate the beneficial insects, sometimes 

setting you up for a worse infestation in the long run since the 

natural control insects (present usually in much smaller numbers 

than the pest) have been destroyed in the area. 

Take Good Care of Your Plants 

A healthy plant almost always has an easier time resisting pests 

than an unhealthy one. Generally we keep our vegetable garden 

well-watered, free of weeds, and fertilized. The same holds true 

usually for the flower gardens be they perennial or annual. We 

tend to neglect, however, our trees and shrubs, both of which, but 

trees are commonly underwatered and undernourished. A good 

example of this in Calgary is the birch. Birch trees need a lot of 

water and are often quite dry. This reduces their resistance to 

the leaf miner, which can do tremendous damage to the leaves. 

In addition, a weak birch will experience major winter dieback. 

Follow watering directions set out in our xeriscaping section and 

fertilize either with spikes or by hand watering 2-3 time per season 

but no fertilizing later than the last weekend of July. As a result, 

your birch will be stronger and more able to resist attack by leaf 

miner. The same basic principles apply for all trees and shrubs; 

a healthy plant tends to have less pest problems. 

Accept a Few Insects 

If all the above directions are followed and your plant still has a 

few pest insects it is best to simply accept it. This is especially 

true of trees and shrubs. A tree is an ecosystem unto itself. It has 

evolved to support minor pest populations. Trees, depending on 

the variety, can even handle one or two years of total defoliation 

by insects before running into major trouble. If it is not bothering 

the plant, do not let it bother you. Granted, in the case of vegetables 

and prize perennials it can be frustrating and may warrant 

control methods. However, if you find that a particular type of 

plant under good growing conditions still seems to attract aphids 

to your yard, it may be best to simply remove it for the sake of 

your other plants. Integrated pest management (IPM) is basically 

common-sense pest control that aims to keep pest populations at 

levels below which they cause significant damage. IPM controls 

pests and problems through a combination of biological, cultural 

and chemical methods. However, a treatment is used only when 

it is necessary. Instead of completely eliminating pests, they are 

kept at non-damaging levels. Both the gardener and the garden 

benefit from a balanced IPM approach. Reduced chemical use 

reduces damage to non-target organisms like beneficial insects 

and plants, protects the broader environment and decreases 

threats to human health. It also prevents pesticide-resistant pests 

from developing and reduces pesticide costs. In the long term it

is the most practical and viable pest control solution. 

One of the most important ways to prevent pest infestations in the garden is by 

providing good growing conditions that encourage strong, healthy plants. A pest 

infestation can be a sign that cultural conditions need to be corrected. Improper 

light, poor soil drainage, overpruning, too much or poorly timed watering or 

fertilizing. Any of these can create a weakened plant that becomes susceptible 

to insects or disease. 

Correct identification of pests, their food source and the damage they do is 

important. In other words, know your enemy. Their are three basic forms of insect 

pests: generalist, specialist, and opportunist. Generalist pests like some species 

of aphid, attack a wide range of plants. In this case it is wise to control the insect. 

Specialist pests like birch leaf- miner attack only specific plants. In this situation 

biological control, plant resistance and/or proper care can be more helpful than 

chemicals. Opportunistic pests target weaker plants. Again, attention to the plant 

and its required growing conditions will help immeasurably. 

After the plants and/or the pests have been identified the next step is to monitor 

the situation, know the ideal healthy state of the plant, then you can compare 

how well the plant is faring. Always remember: most plants can withstand more 

damage than you would expect. However, if an ornamental plant becomes too 

unattractive, the gardener must decide whether or not it needs treatment. 

When it comes to controlling the pest there are two basic approaches: offensive 

or defensive. The offensive approach involves taking charge of the situation 

- making sure plants have adequate light, water, nutrients and air circulation, 

planting resistant varieties and doing thorough clean-up in the spring and fall. The 

defensive approach involves dealing with the pest after it has arrived. Increasing 

plant health could be beneficial as could biological control (ie. introducing 

predators), removing the pest (by hand or pruning of infested areas), or using 

chemicals. When using chemicals always read the product label carefully, 

making sure you understand the plant and the pest as well as the required safety 

precautions. As an example, in the case of a leaf-hopper infestation on virginia 

creeper, chemical sprays may be a poor defensive approach. Leaf-hoppers are 

highly mobile and can easlily escape most of the chemical spray. Virginia creeper 

are very sensitive to chemicals and can burn easily. A better control method is 

to remove all leaf litter in the fall. This offensive method removes the protection 

that leaf-hoppers need. When adults move down to the base of the plant to 

overwinter, they will have no shelter from the cold and the pest population will 

be greatly reduced. 

In summary, using integrated pest management (IPM) perspectives and principles 

is the most reasonable and effective way to ensure balanced, healthy and 

beautiful gardens as well a safer environment in which to live and enjoy them. 

A Framework for Practical IPM 

1. Preparation 

- Be aware of potential problems 

- Try to anticipate and avoid costly 

remedies. 

- Be aware of what control tactics are 

available if, despite your best efforts, 

pests get out of control. 

2. Prevention 

- Use practices that contribute to protec- 

tion for the long term such as: 

- Biological controls 

- Crop rotation (breaks pest cycles) 

- Host plant resistance (choose varie- 

ties that have proven resistance to 

common pests) 

- Sanitation: remove and destroy 

infected debris and other sources of 

infestation. 

- Choose the proper plant for the 

proper site. 

- Observation: collect and document 

information to help make timely 

decisions. 

3. Analysis 

- After observation indicates what pests 

you have, you must now decide if 

action is warranted. 

-Determine whether the benefits derived 

are justified by the costs incurred 

(monetary and human health costs). 

- If action is called for then choose the 

actions that will optimize the cost and 

effect while minimizing adverse effects. 

eg. Cultural - Crop rotation 

Mechanical - Cultivation 

Biological - Release of beneficials 

Chemical - Herbicides, insecticide, 

fungicides 

4. Implementation 

- If control is justified use the proper 

procedures at the proper time, eg. 

- Weed Cultivation: most effective 

before seedlings are even visible. 

- Biological controls: when releasing 

beneficial insects be aware of 

temperatures and life cycles. 

5. Evaluation 

- Short Term: did we make the right 

decision; did we get the desired 

results? 

- Long Term: keeping accurate records 

will help us in the future (next growing 

season). We will continue taking 

beneficial actions and discontinue 

practices that are costly and harmful. 

PeStS AnD ProBLemS 16


166 

PeStS & ProBLemS BenefiCiAL inSeCtS 

Not all insects in our yards are harmful. Don't jump to the hasty 

conclusion that an insect is a pest unless you have positively 

identified it, or have seen it actually eating the plant. Many 

insects are neutral; they do not harm plants. Some insects are 

beneficial; they prey on the harmful insects that do damage our 

plants. 

The descriptions of some common pests are described on the 

next couple of pages of our guide, which will help to identify 

harmful insects. If you are unsure, the knowledgeable staff at 

Golden Acre may be able to offer assistance. 

Listed below are the more common beneficial insects in our 

area. 

Centipedes: 

This fast-moving arthropod is another of the important grounddwelling 

predators. Centipedes are totally carnivorous and 

never damage plants. Their close relatives millipedes may 

do damage to soft-stemmed plants but these mainly feed on 

decaying plant and animal matter. The easiest way to tell these 

two creatures apart is the number of legs and how fast they 

move. A centipede has fewer legs and moves much faster 

than a millipede. Centipedes will eat nearly anything living they 

encounter including slugs and other centipedes. 

Ground Beetles: 

Ground beetles or Carabids are a very common predator of 

crawling pests like slugs, cutworms, ants, aphids, etc. Most 

species are black but some have bright metallic green or 

reddish shells. The larval form also feeds on pests but they are 

not as mobile as the adults. As a result, they spend most of this 

stage of their life in the soil or grass and are rarely ever seen. 

Honeybees & Other Pollinators: 

Although they do not destroy pests, honey bees are considered 

beneficial because they pollinate plants. Leafcutter bees, 

bumblebees, carpenter bees, butterflies, and moths also visit 

flowers to feed on nectar and pollen. These insects and other 

pollinators are vital for a plant species to survive. Without them 

many plants would be unable to produce fruit or seeds. 

Hover/Syrphid Flies: 

In both larval and adult form this insect is extremely beneficial 

though for different reasons. The larva is an important aphid 

predator. It is hard to identify because it is similar in appearance 

to a caterpillar differing only by a narrow, eye-less head 

and faintly translucent skin. As well, these insects, unlike 

caterpillars, will be found amongst aphid colonies. The adult 

form mimics bee and wasp coloring for protection but, as it is 

a true fly, is unable to sting. These flies merely feed off nectar, 

pollinating flowers in the process. 

Hypoaspis Mites: 

Sold in the form HYPE-O, these beneficial mites feed on fungus 

gnats, thrips, bulb mites, weevil eggs and spring tails. They live 

in the soil as long as they have a food source and up to 30 days 

without food. However if plants continue to be overwatered they 

will drown. 

Lacewings: 

Adult lacewings are one of our most beautiful and beneficial 

insects. They can reach lengths up to 3/4" long, & have long 

green or occasionally brown lacy wings. The larval form is 

very similar to ladybug larvae. Both adults and larvae feed on 

aphids, various insect eggs, mealy bugs and scale. 

Ladybugs: 

Both the larval and adult stages eat insect eggs and soft bodied 

insects, particularly aphids. We are all familiar with the blackspotted 

red ladybug beetle, but should learn to recognize the 

ladybug larvae, which eats more pests than the adults. They 

are shaped like tiny alligators; the most common types are dark 

blue with orange or yellow spots. 

Predator Nematodes: 

Predator nematodes eat insects such as grubs, cut worms, 

and larvae of the carrot rust fly, onion maggot and the crane fly 

(leather jacker). Nematodes only need to be applied once per 

season and require a soil tempurature of 10 degrees C. They 

will not overwinter. 

Spiders & Harvestmen: 

Spiders are voracious predators, feeding on many species of 

insects including aphids, flies, leafhoppers, mosquitoes and 

other pest insects. They do not damage our plants or crops 

and should therefore be left in peace. In fact, these arthropods 

should be actively encouraged to live in your garden as they do 

nothing but good. 

The daddy longlegs or 'harvestman' (not actually a true spider, 

though often mistaken for one) performs a similar role as 

spiders. Its main prey consists of ground and plant pests like 

aphids and small slugs. 

Others: 

Many other insects commonly found in Alberta are beneficial 

as pollinators, predators, or parasites. Butterflies and moths 

are, of course, pollinators but so are many species of flies, 

small beetles, and wasps. Other predators include robber flies, 

aphid midge larvae (tiny bright orange caterpillar-like animals), 

predatory true bugs like assassin or ambush bugs, and wasps 

(including yellow jackets which are excellent predators) and 

even some mites and thrips. Parasites include many species of 

wasps which lay their eggs either on or in the pest insect, and 

some species of mites.

PeStS & ProBLemS PeStS 

Pests are 

living organisms 

that disturb and 

harm the natural 

and desirable 

growth of plants. 

Insect pests include 

aphids and 

scale. Diseases 

are caused by 

various microscopic 

organisms 

such as fungi, 

bacteria, and 

viruses. 

HOUSE PLANT 

INSECTS 

If you think an insect 

m a y b e c a u s i n g a 

problem on your house 

plants ask for help. Be 

sure you identify the 

insect before you use 

any chemical sprays. It 

may not be an insect at 

all: fungal infections are 

often mistaken as insect 

damage. Insecticides are 

ineffective in controlling 

fungal related problems. 

Cultural errors, watering 

too often or not enough, 

or inappropriate lighting, 

could be the reason your 

plants are not doing 

well. These problems 

can only be corrected 

by changing cultural 

practices. If an insect 

is indeed the culprit, 

identifying the type of 

insect ensures that the 

best treatment, chemical 

or other, is used. The 

following descriptions 

will give you some 

ALWAYS READ 

THE PESTICIDE LA- 

BEL FIRST BEFORE 

APPLYING ANY 

CHEMICAL! 

Houseplant Pests 

Aphids are small insects, usually green or 

black, that suck the plant juices out of new 

growth or flower buds. Sprays containing 

botanical insecticides such as pyrethrin 

or insecticidal soap will kill aphids on 

contact. Repeated spray applications are 

necessary. Plants infested with aphids will 

have to be watched closely for some time. 

If aphids are only a problem on the flower 

buds, which often happens on hibiscus, 

remove all buds at the same time to 

eliminate the aphids. 

Mealy Bugs are small, flat grayish-white 

insects that form clumps of damp wool-like 

cocoons. Mealy bugs are most often found 

in crotches where leaves join stems or 

where stems meet. These insects can be 

killed on contact with a botanical insecticide 

such as pyrethrin or insecticidal soap. Even 

with this treatment, plants will have to be 

watched very carefully for several months. 

Rather than spraying the whole plant only 

spray specific insects or cocoons or dab 

them with a cotton swab that has been 

dipped in a 50% water/rubbing alcohol 

solution Mealy bugs can attack almost any 

plant but prefer succulent plants like hoya, 

jade, and cacti. 

Spider Mites are almost too small to 

see. Plants infested with spider mites will 

demonstrate tiny white specks on the 

underside of their leaves, especially near 

leaf mid-ribs. Later, fine silky webs are 

formed which are most obvious if plants 

are misted with water. Spider mites feed by 

sucking sap from the plant tissue causing 

a speckled leaf appearance. Spider mites 

are actually spiders, not true insects, so 

a specific mite killer is effective at killing 

them. Spray the undersides of the leaves 

with insecticide twice a week for a month . 

Mist the plant with a strong spray of water 

before spraying as spider mites do not like 

moist, humid conditions. 

Fungus Gnats 

Often mistaken for fruit flies, a fungus 

gnat infestation will most often be noticed 

in their adult form as tiny black 

flies hovering near overwatered 

plants. The adult flies lay 

their eggs in the soil which 

eventually hatch into 

tiny white maggots. 

These maggots can 

only damage healthy 

roots if they are 

present in massive 

numbers. Their main 

food source consists 

of dead, rotting roots and other decaying 

material like peat moss or fungus in the 

soil. Fungus gnats rarely kill plants. In fact, 

the plants they are infesting are most likely 

dying from overwatering or poor drainage. 

As a result of the excess moisture, the fine 

absorbent roots decay, supplying the gnat 

larvae with a source of food. To eliminate 

these pests water less if possible. Allow 

the top inch or so of soil to dry out as this 

is where the majority of larvae live. If this 

is ineffective, apply rotenone every few 

weeks to eliminate the population over time. 

Another method is to introduce Hypoaspis 

mites which attack 

fungus gnats - See 

the Beneficial 

Insects page. 

Scale can look 

like drops of dried 

glue on stems or 

leaves. Plants 

with scale are 

best destroyed 

as chemical 

treatments are 

only a temporary 

measure. Scale 

spreads to other 

plants if the 

source is not eliminated. Scale is often 

mis-identified as leaf spot, sun burn, or a 

fungal infection. Bring a leaf in for positive 

identification under a magnifying glass. 

Thrips are tiny dark, slender active, flying 

insects that swarm when disturbed. They 

suck sap from the leaves, causing silvery 

white streaking or blotching. Thrips are 

chemically controlled by Trounce or End-All. 



16 

White Flies are tiny white, moth-like, flying insects which 

swarm into white clouds when plant leaves are disturbed. 

They suck sap from primarily the undersides of leaves, 

causing them to discolor 

to yellow and then to die. 

Whiteflies secrete honeydew 

which favors dark fungal 

growth. Whiteflies overwinter 

only indoors in houses, but 

in summer infest outdoor 

annuals and perennials. They 

are controlled chemically by 

pyrethrins. 

Garden Insect Pests 

Ants do not eat plants or kill them directly. There are 8800 

species worldwide, with 580 in North America and 100 

species in Canada alone. These insects live in underground 

nests or in large soil mounds. As these mounds are pushed 

up plant roots are damaged. The unsightly mounds can 

smother turf or greatly reduce the vitality of vegetables, 

annuals, perennials, or even trees and shrubs. Ants are 

neither beneficial nor harmful to peonies. Water your lawn 

thoroughly after each treatment. Cultural controls such 

as digging up the nest or drowning can be very effective. 

Please see Golden Acre staff for chemical treatments. 

Aphids are small green, gray, red or black insects with 

or without wings that attack almost any type of plant by 

sucking sap from leave or stems. The damage caused by 

aphids appears as stunted and curled new growth and 

is usually associated with the presence of a sticky shiny 

substance called honeydew. Aphids commonly attack 

honeysuckle, dogwood, mayday, elm, and apple trees. A 

sooty black mold often develops on plant tissue coated 

with honeydew. Control aphids with foliar applications of 

Ambush, insecticidal soap, or Trounce. A steady spray of 

water from the garden hose can dislodge the insects. 

Cabbage Worms are green caterpillars which chew holes 

in the leaves of cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, and brussels 

sprouts (cole crops). Control cabbage worms with repeated 

applications of Rotenone or BTK. Row covers stop 

butterflies from laying eggs on plants. 

Caterpillars 

This broad family of insects appear in most any color 

from yellow to black. Caterpillars cause damage to 

many different plants by actually 

chewing away large sections 

of leaf tissue. Most caterpillars 

are somewhat particular which 

type of plants they will feed on. 

Control caterpillars on food crops 

with pyrethrins or Rotenone 

dust. Contact chemicals such as 

Ambush will eliminate caterpillars 

from feeding on ornamental plants. 

Green leaf rollers are caterpillars 

that roll themselves in leaves and 

webbing. Leaf roller caterpillars can 

not be contacted with chemicals. 

Caterpillars are best controlled by 

manual removal or through BTK 

when they are very small. 

Cutworms are green 

caterpillars with 

black heads. These 

caterpillars cut beans, 

peas, and many other 

tender young plants off 

at ground level. When 

touched, cutworms will 

always curl into a tight 

ball. Control cutworms 

by applying Rotenone to 

the soil prior to planting 

ornamental flowers. BTK 

may be effective when 

they are small. Other 

controls like placing 

barriers around the 

young seedlings can also work. 

Flea Beatles are small shiny black or dark red beetles 

which attack almost any 

vegetable crop. They leave 

many small pinholes in the 

leaves. Flea beetles jump 

when disturbed. Control flea 

beetles with applications of 

Rotenone, insecticidal soap, 

or Trounce. Spray flea beetle 

infested plants twice weekly 

until the insects are under 

control. 

Maggots are small white 

worm-like insects that attack 

vegetable crops such as cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, 

brussels sprouts, radishes, carrots and onions. Prevention 

is the best cure for maggots. 

Slugs (shell-less snails), are usually dark brown slimy 

creatures that attack almost any vegetation. Place Safer's 

Slug and Snail Bait (a new product consisting of ferric 

phosphate and is perfectly safe for humans and animals) 

in a cool moist place where slugs hide during the day. 

These spots can be located by 

following, early in the morning, 

the slimy trails that slugs leave 

as they move. Keep soil free of 

mulch and dead plant material 

as these are ideal places for 

slugs to hide. Water in the 

morning, not in the evening, 

because they move less easily 

on dry soil. Cover soil surface with sharp sand to prevent 

slugs from moving around on soil surface. 

Spider Mites are minute sap sucking pests that cause 

plant foliage to yellow, brown, and eventually dry up and 

drop. They are common on almost every type of plant 

including house plants (see House Plant Pests), deciduous 

and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials, and annuals. 

Damage appears as spotted leaves or needles and dead 

patches in spruce or pyramidal junipers. A fine webbing is 

usually present which is often noticed after a rain. Spider 

mites are more common during hot dry weather than during 

cool damp weather. Control spider mite infestations on 

outdoor ornamentals with two applications, about a week 

apart, of Ambush. By hosing spider mite infested trees 

down once a week you can provide some natural control 

because they can not fly and may not climb back up into the 

tree.

Deciduous Pests 

Birch Leaf Miner 

The larvae of these insects tunnel or mine into the leaf 

tissue creating unsightly brown patches on the leaves. 

These areas can be pulled apart to reveal tiny larvae 

between the leaf layers. When damage is noticed, contact 

insecticides are not effective 

G A R D E N 

PESTS: 

Despite 

your best 

efforts some 

plants may 

become 

infested by 

either insects 

or diseases 

during the 

course of 

a growing 

season. The 

degree of 

the damage 

caused by 

these infestationsranges 

from mild 

symptoms to 

the death of 

a plant or a 

whole crop 

of plants. 

Regardless 

of the severity 

garden 

plant pest 

damage is 

discouraging. 

The following 

are some 

cultural rules 

which will 

help to diminish 

these 

problems: 

1.Keep 

gardens and 

greenhouses 

free of dead 

or diseased 

since larvae are safely hidden 

within the leaf tissue. Systemic 

pesticides were effective but are 

no longer available. Try to deal 

with the adult females as they 

lay eggs. Spray the foliage with 

Ambush, a synthetic pyrethroid, 

when the leaves are fully opened 

and repeat in mid-June and again 

in early July. Remember, birch 

and other trees under drought 

stress are prone to insect attack. 

Keep your birch deeply watered 

out to 

and 

beyond 

the 

dripline. 

If 

possible, 

also 

mulch 

this 

area to 

conserve 

soil 

moisture. 

Cottony Ash Psyllid 

The nymph stage of this insect 

pierce leaf tissue, feed on plant 

juices and inject a toxin causing 

severely curled or "cauliflowered" 

leaves and leaf drop. It is a 

new insect to our area which 

attacks black and Manchurian 

ash trees. During summer, the 

feeding nymphs are covered in 

"cotton" and enclosed in the leaf. 

Spraying has little effect at this 

time, therefore it is best to spray 

the newly-hatched nymphs with 

Trounce (pyrethrin; insecticidal 

soap) just when leaf buds start 

to open, usually in late May or 

early June. Spraying again about 

one month later is less effective 

but may kill some of the second 

generation nymphs as they hatch 

in late July/early August. 

Pear Slugs are the larvae of a 

sawfly species and appear as 

small dark slugs on the surface 

of plant leaves. Pear slugs 

skeletonize leaves as they scrape 

away upper leaf surfaces. They 

are common on Cotoneaster 

hedges, and Hawthorns. There 

are generally two generations of 

pear slugs during the growing 

season. The second generation 

which appears in August does the 

most leaf damage. Since these 

insects attack plants in 

the season they don’t do 

any measurable harm to the 

shrub. Earlier infestations of pear slug can be effectively 

controlled with spray applications of Ambush/permethrin. 

Ash Bark Beetles have recently become a major problem 

on green, black, and Manchurian ash trees. Mountain 

ash, which are in the rose family, are unaffected by these 

insects. Trees infected with the larvae of ash bark beetles 

will show signs of wilted leaves and later dead branches 

will be evident throughout the crown area. Where dead and 

live branches meet you will see circular rings of tiny holes. 

Cut open the bark to reveal tunnels, called galleries, that 

restrict sap flow and disrupt plant growth beyond these 

rings. 

Control: As soon as you notice these rings of beetle 

entry holes, prune damaged branches back beyond the 

damaged area; make cuts just above the nearest healthy 

branch or leaf cluster. The damaged branch portions that 

have been removed should be sealed with plastic bags to 

prevent the emergence of the beetles and their re-entry 

into other ash trees. If beetle infested trees are not pruned 

the beetles will emerge from the tunnels in late July to mid 

August. From here they travel down tree trunks and burrow 

into the bark close to tree bases. There are no available 

systemics and foliar sprays are not effective. 

Evergreen Pests 

Spruce Sawfly Larvae are small green orange-headed 

caterpillars that feed on young spruce or larch needles. 

They are similar in color and size as a spruce needle and 

as a result are difficult to see. Ends of branches with new 

needles missing indicates insects are present. Check your 

spruce trees regularly from June to July. Spruce sawfly 

larvae are best 

controlled with a 

contact insecticide 

such as Ambush. 

Spray infested 

spruce trees when 

the caterpillars 

first appear and, if 

necessary, again in 

10-14 days or after 

a rain if more larvae 

are present. 

Cooley Spruce 

Gall Aphids are little white fluffy aphids that lay eggs in 

the new growth of young spruce trees. The larva forms 

a green gall, a swelling on the end of the branch, which 

later turns purple and finally 

brown after the eggs have 

hatched. Brown galls no longer 

contain the insect that created 

them months earlier; they can 

be removed if you find them 

disfiguring. Once the gall has 

formed spraying is useless. If 

you can, pick the green galls off 

to reduce the number of aphids 

that hatch. Insecticidal spraying 

is generally not recommended 

for control of this insect. 

White Pine Weevil on Spruce 

Large white larvae inside the 

leaders of spruce and pine 

trees eat the soft tissue. They 

cause leaders to curl over and 

the needles on the leader to 

die in the late summer. In the fall, on damaged trees, you 

will be able to see telltale holes in the leader where adult 

weevils have emerged. Once a leader has curled over no 

control is possible. Cut the leader off just above the next 



1 0 

“Why, Sir, they have as good a right to live as we; they are our 

fellow worms." -Henry Wadsworth Longfellow (1840) 

set of healthy branches. To form a new leader, tie a sturdy 

stick, that extends beyond the cut, to the trunk of the tree. 

Bend one of the top healthy branches up to it and tie it to 

the stick. If other healthy branches try to compete, they 

should be removed. After one year previously damaged 

trees will have new leaders. 

Insecticidal spraying is 

generally not recommended 

for control of this insect. 

Pine Needle Scales are 

small white oblong-shaped 

crusts on pine needles. 

These scales can be scraped 

off with a fingernail. Insects 

under these scales suck sap 

from needles and eventually 

give pine trees a pale sickly 

appearance. Most insecticides 

won’t penetrate scale, 

however horticultural oil may 

help. Various types of scale 

attack spruce and juniper as 

well as pine. 

Spruce Budworms are seen occasionally but are less 

common than sawfly larvae in 

western Canada. The green 

budworm larvae are larger than 

spruce sawfly larvae. Budworm 

larvae also attack new spruce 

needles, but rather than leaving 

the ends of the branches 

bare, they form clusters of silk 

webbing, bud scales, and debris 

around the end of the branch. 

Ambush is an effective budworm 

control if sprayed when larvae 

are present. 

Lawn Pests 

Read the label directions to find 

out which chemical will work best 

against the particular 

insect you are dealing 

with. Some of the 

most common lawn 

insects are listed 

below: 

Dew Worms create 

small mounds in 

your lawn, making it 

uneven. Some dew 

worms are beneficial 

as they prevent 

the ground from 

compacting. If you are 

overrun with them, 

apply carbolic soap 

at the recommended 

rate (mixing it with 

water), using a watering can to prevent chemical drift. 

Water your lawn and surrounding area thoroughly for 

1-2 hours in the early evening, then apply the chemical. 

Remember to read the directions first before you apply the 

carbolic soap. Remove any dead worms seen, as they 

are poisonous to birds. Repeat this treatment several 

times at 2 week intervals and have your neighbors treat 

their lawns as well to lessen the chance of recurrence. This 

is only a temporary solution; the best method is to live with 

them and use gypsum to break down clumps and mounds 

left by dew worms. 

Sod Webworms are gray caterpillars that attack the root 

system of lawns. Circular areas of lawn will die. If the dead 

grass areas are pulled on the grass comes out of the soil 

easily since the roots have been damaged. A fine white 

web can be seen just below ground level. Diazinon is an 

effective control for sod webworm. Always read and follow 

instructions on the container label. 

Plant Diseases 

Plant diseases fall into two major groups: parasitic and 

physiological. Parasitic diseases are caused by fungi, 

bacteria, viruses and other microscopic organisms. 

Physiological disorders are caused by unfavorable 

environmental conditions, chemical injury, improper 

fertilizing or other environmentally related situations. Some 

of the most common plant diseases are listed below. 

Fire Blight is probably the most destructive disease of 

trees and shrubs in the rose family in North America. Fire 

blight occurs sporadically and unpredictably. A severe 

outbreak can seriously damage or kill mature pear, apple, 

or crabapple trees in one season. Mountain ash is equally 

vulnerable to the disease and may suffer the same fate. 

Other ornamentals such as 

hawthorn, plum, chokecherry, 

saskatoon, cotoneaster, and 

spirea may also be affected. 

The Cause: Fire blight is caused 

by a bacterium (scientific 

name Erwinia amylovora) 

that enters the tree through 

blossoms, leaves, or stem 

wounds. Usually the disease 

is spread by bacteria that 

over winter in main stem and 

branch cankers or in infected 

twigs. In the spring, just as 

the blossoms begin to open, these cankers and infected 

twigs exude drops of bacterial ooze that are spread by rain, 

heavy dew, or wind-blown mist to the blossoms and young 

leaves. Fire blight may also be spread by pollinating insects 

such as bees, by sucking, chewing, or boring insects, or by 

unsanitary pruning tools. Favorable conditions for disease 

entry and development include warm temperatures and 

high humidity. In the spring infected blossoms suddenly wilt 

and turn brown. Later, twigs and leaves also turn brown, 

appearing to be scorched by fire; hence the common name. 

Affected leaves usually remain on trees well into the winter. 

The branch ends curl over like a shepherd’s crook. Young 

infected fruits become watery or oily in appearance and

exude droplets of clear or amber-colored ooze. This fruit 

later become leathery and turns dark brown. The shrivelled 

fruit usually remains attached to the tree. Cankers, which 

are sunken woody areas, also form on affected branches 

and exude this sticky ooze. 

Prevention: Preventative treatment of fruit trees and 

mountain ash should be undertaken as a matter of course if 

fire blight is present in your neighborhood. Trees that have 

previously been infected and pruned of their diseased parts 

should also be treated to prevent new infections. 

Blossoms are the part of the plant most susceptible to 

fireblight. Blossoms can be protected by using a Copper 

Spray solution following label instructions. Apply this 

solution with a hose-end sprayer during the early 

stages of blossom, when 10% of the blossoms have 

opened. Repeat these spray applications at 4 to 5 day 

intervals until the late stages of blossom, when only 

a few blossoms remain on the tree. This will require at 

least three applications. These applications can only be 

made when the air temperature is around 18 C (65 F.) The 

best control of fire blight comes from spraying the entire 

tree at regular intervals through the summer. Copper sprays 

may be used until 1 day before picking the fruit. Additional 

preventative measures that should be taken to eliminate fire 

blight are to: 

1. Avoid the use of high nitrogen 

fertilizers that 

promote succulent growth readily 

susceptible to fire blight. 

2. Remove root suckers from the 

base of the trees for 

same reason. 

the 

3. Control leaf hoppers, aphids 

and other leaf-feeding insects 

that may spread fire blight. 

Control: There is no chemical that can cure fire blight. The 

only effective method of controlling fire blight is to prune off 

diseased twigs and branches. During the dormant season, 

late fall to early spring, prune out and destroy all diseased 

twigs and branches. Cut 30 cm. (1 ft.) below the diseased 

area since bacterial infections such as fire blight can extend 

beyond the visibly blighted area. (All pruning wounds can 

be disinfected with a copper spray solution.) During the 

growing season prune and burn any infected twigs or 

branches or seal in garbage bags for disposal. Once again, 

cut 30 cm. (1 ft.) below the infected area. Make regular 

inspections during the summer to detect and remove new 

infections but avoid pruning excessively during the growing 

season. Trees that are severely infected, with large cankers 

in the trunk, should be removed and destroyed immediately. 

WARNING: Healthy plant tissue can be infected by 

bacteria-coated pruning tools. After each cut dip your 

pruning tools in a disinfectant solution of Lysol at 50 ml/L 

(4tbs/qt) or household bleach at 100 ml/L(8 tbs/qt) to 

prevent this. 

Dutch Elm Disease 

Dutch elm disease 

is a fungi that infects 

elm trees and inhibits 

the flow of nutrients 

throughout the tree. 

The name Dutch Elm 

Disease originates 

from Holland, where 

the fungi was first 

identified. The disease 

was accidentally 

introduced to North 

America from Europe in 1930. Since then, DED has 

spread throughout the continent via the transportation of 

elm firewood within which the smaller European elm bark 

beetle breeds. It is believed that this elm bark beetle was 

introduced to Calgary in this way. 

Prevention: To keep DED out of Calgary, the City is 

monitoring its elms to detect DED infection. Part of this 

monitoring includes completion of an elm inventory. By 

knowing where its elms are, Parks & Recreation staff may 

best care for the City's elms. During summer months, watch 

for signs and symptoms of DED. An elm with DED displays 

the following signs; wilting, yellowing leaves and leaves 

turning brown and falling before onset of fall. If you see a 

tree displaying such symptoms, contact the DED hotline @ 

221-4686. Secondly, be sure to maintain the health of your 

elm through proper care. 

Powdery Mildew 

Powdery mildew fungus affects all types of plants including 

lawns, perennials, annuals, and shrubs. It is particularly 

prevalent on roses and 

currants. This disease starts 

on young leaves as raised 

blister-like areas that are 

soon covered with grayishwhite 

powder or mold. The 

fungus growth develops on 

the surface of leaves, stems, 

buds, and flowers. Symptoms 

of injury are: stunting, 

distortion of leaves and buds, 

yellowing of leaves, premature 

leaf fall, and general decline in 

plant growth. 

Control: Powdery mildew can 

be prevented: by planting 

mildew-tolerant or resistant varieties wherever possible; by 

not planting susceptible plants in damp shady locations; 

by spacing plants out to avoid overcrowding and allow 

air circulation; and by pruning off affected young growth 

and discarding it. Water plants in the morning so that leaf 

moisture has a chance to evaporate during the day. In 

serious cases, apply protective fungicides like Garden 

Sulphur at the first sign of infection. 

Leaf Yellowing 

Trees & shrubs often appear to be declining in vigor by 

showing signs of leaf yellowing in summer. Pale yellow 

leaves with dry crisp edges that drop prematurely can be 

equated to a number of causes: leaf scorch resulting from 

rapid leaf moisture loss during dry conditions, nitrogen 

deficiency resulting from lack of fertilizer, toxicity resulting 

from the use of concentrated insecticides during hot dry 

weather, or from herbicides or soil sterilants used too 

closely to ornamental trees and shrubs. However, the most 

common cause of leaf yellowing is iron or manganese 

deficiency. Leaf veins stay green while inter-veinal spaces 

become pale yellow. Young leaves are affected first, but 

this condition, known as iron chlorosis advances throughout 

entire plants if not corrected. Iron chlorosis can be 

corrected by adding iron or acidifying soil conditioners such 

as peat moss, aluminum sulfate or sulfur to the soil. The 

problem is that iron, although present, is not available in 

soil conditions common to the prairies because our soil and 

water are alkaline. 

Potato Late Blight 

Late blight caused by a fungus (Phytophthora infestans) 

is the most destructive disease of potatoes worldwide. 

This disease is responsible for causing the infamous Irish 

potato famine in the mid-nineteenth century. Late blight has 

reappeared as a major disease in many potato growing 

PeStS AnD ProBLemS 1 1


1 2 

areas of the world, 

mainly because 

fungicide-resistant 

strains of the fungus 

have developed. 

The disease affects 

potatoes and tomatoes 

equally severely. In 

Alberta, the disease 

has been gaining 

in importance for 

the last few years. 

Its resurgence is of 

concern to potato 

growers. Late blight 

is a "community 

disease"; if any 

diseased plant exists 

in an area, there 

is a good chance 

that the disease will 

spread to neighboring 

fields. A hobby home 

garden (of potatoes and tomatoes) with infected plants 

could threaten a nearby commercial field. It is, thus, very 

important that the community as a whole keeps their plants 

free from late blight. 

Prevention: Since the disease can survive in infected 

tubers, DO NOT use your own potato tubers if they show 

any kind of rotting. As a precaution, ALWAYS buy "certified 

seed potatoes" & tomato seedlings from reputable sources. 

Control: The disease can be effectively controlled with the 

spray of an appropriate, registered fungicide. Consult your 

local greenhouse garden centre or other such sources for 

the fungicides and their use. Always follow the directions on 

the fungicide label. 

Black Knot 

Black knot is a common 

fungus problem on many 

flowering Prunus species 

such as cherries or plums. 

It affects only woody tissue, 

developing on twigs, limbs, 

and branches, stopping the 

flow of sap and nutrients. 

Growth beyond the knots 

can be stunted or even 

dead, resulting in weak, 

disfigured, and sometimes 

dead trees. Knots are easily 

recognized as lumpy, hard 

black swellings on the wood. 

Fungus overwinters on 

infected twigs and produces 

new spores in the spring. 

These spores are easily 

transferred by wind, rain, 

or the activities of animals. New shoots are susceptible to 

infection in the spring just before blooming or just after the 

petals have fallen. Wet spring weather increases the spread 

of black knot spores. 

Control: Unfortunately there are no fungicides currently 

available to effectively treat black knot. Instead, prune out 

any growths making sure to cut at least eight inches below 

the knot. Disinfect the wound with copper spray, clean the 

pruning tool between cuts with a bleach solution, and either 

destroy of completely dispose of infected wood. 

Lawn Diseases 

Snow Mold 

The incidence and severity of damage caused by snow 

mold depends largely on the nature of the fall weather. 

If the ground is frozen solid before a permanent snow 

cover, damage from snow mold may be minimal. If 

however, a heavy snowfall is experienced before freezeup, 

considerable lawn injury can occur. Snow Mold is a 

common fungi in southern Alberta. 

Control: Apply a suitable fungicide to the grass just before 

the arrival of the permanent snow cover, in approximately 

autumn. Copper spray or Garden Sulphur can be used 

to control snow mold. Remember to read the directions 

first before you use either. Control snow mold naturally 

by reducing watering in the late summer to allow your turf 

to harden-off, by raking up leaves in the fall, by breaking 

up piles of snow to speed their melting in the spring, and 

by picking up grass clippings and/or dethatching the turf 

regularly. 

Fairy Ring 

This fungus spreads easily and is therefore very difficult 

to control. Dark green circles appear in the lawn. As these 

rings enlarge the center area of lawn dies. The fungus 

forms a thick impervious mat under the soil surface, 

preventing water, air and nutrients from reaching the grass 

roots. 

Control: Use a garden fork or an aerating tool to poke 

holes, 7-10 cm (3-4 in.) apart and at least 12-15 cm (5- 

6 in.) deep into the fairy ring. To prevent the spread of 

this fungi to other parts of your lawn or garden be sure to 

disinfect your tools with a solution of household bleach or 

lysol containing chlorine after you use them to aerate fairy 

rings. Water the infected area thoroughly. Next, apply a high 

nitrogen fertilizer, such as 20-3-4, to the lawn area. Water 

this area deeply throughout the summer. An alternative 

method is digging the fairy ring out. To do this effectively 

the grass and soil must be removed from a distance of 12 

inches from the outside and inside edge of the ring and 12- 

18 deep. Take care not to spill any soil since any fairy ring 

mycellium that fall on the lawn from the soil being removed 

can start a new ring. Follow the instructions for cleaning the 

tools after this procedure has been completed.

PeStS & ProBLemS SAfety & CAre 

A disappointing factor of 

gardening is the fact that disease, 

insects, and weeds (pests) 

can destroy productive or attractive 

plants. However, not all 

insects cause damage. Many 

insects are not pests at all but 

are beneficial. Without insects 

many berry and fruit producing 

plants would not be pollinated. 

Insects also provide food for fish 

and birds. Beneficial insects are 

scavengers, parasites, or predators 

which live off undesirable insects. 

Because of the beneficial 

aspects of some insects, insecticides 

should only be used when 

natural controls fail. Please see 

the beneficial insect section for 

further information. 

Natural pest controls include 

hard frost, snow, rain; and the 

feeding of predacious insects 

such as ladybugs, dragon flies, 

and wasps. Spraying should 

only be done when insect damage 

is intolerable. Furthermore, 

pesticides are only one way of 

controlling pests and should only 

be used when non-chemical 

methods are not affective (See 

Alternative to Pesticides). 

Alternatives to pesticides: 

There is a growing concern 

over the extensive use of pesticides 

and the effect they have 

on the environment. For this 

reason many people are looking 

for alternative methods of pest 

control. We offer a number of 

natural products that can be economical, 

effective, and safe to 

use. Botanical insecticides such 

as Pyrethrum, Resmethrin, Rotenone, 

and Insecticidal Soaps are 

examples of such products. 

Trees and Shrubs: Many 

home-garden pest problems can 

be solved with cultural or biological 

techniques. Deciduous trees 

and shrubs may withstand substantial 

defoliation before being 

significantly damaged. Insect 

pests or leaves harboring insects 

can be removed manually when 

infestation levels are low. Spray 

trees and shrubs with a strong 

stream of water to dislodge and 

kill insects. Prune diseased 

When and if pesticides are required, there are a number of 

precautions you should be aware of. Small plants can easily be sprayed by 

a home owner using a small portable sprayer or hose-end sprayer. When 

large trees require spraying a professional pesticide applicator should 

be considered. Ask to see the company’s pesticide applicators license, 

required by law, before hiring anyone. 

Prior to applying any pesticide it is important to identify the problem. 

For insect related problem determine when, during the insects' life 

cycle, the insect is most vulnerable. Then determine which of the many 

insecticides will control the insect harming your plants. Finally determine 

if the insect in question has more than one life cycle. This may make it 

necessary to spray more than once in a season to control the insect. 

The best time to spray is on a calm evening, when rain is not 

forecast. At this time insects are least active and most vulnerable. 

Spraying in the evening also protects birds and bees which are also 

less active at this time. Spraying when it is windy causes chemicals 

to drift onto desirable plants in your own yard or in your neighbors' 

yard. This can be especially destructive if you are applying herbicides. 

The cool temperatures late in the day reduce the chance of pesticides 

damaging (burning) plant tissue. Spraying when rain is forecast can lead 

to chemicals being washed off, allowing pests to survive, and depositing 

chemicals in local water ways. Spraying when plants are in bloom can 

damage attractive flowers and reduce pollination which in turn reduces 

yields. 

It is the responsibility of the user to handle, store and apply 

pesticides correctly and safely. Listed below are the most important things 

to know when using pesticides. 

1. When mixing and handling pesticides read and carefully follow the 

precautions listed on the product label - chemicals may be toxic to 

animals and beneficial insects. 

2. Use only the pesticide recommended for the problem in question. 

The recommended uses are listed on the label. 

3. Mix all pesticide chemicals outdoors. Mix pesticide chemical 

solutions according to the directions on the label. Do NOT make 

pesticide solutions a little stronger for good measure as too much 

may cause injury to plants, kill beneficial insects, or leave harmful 

residues on edible crops; and is not more effective 

4. Avoid inhaling chemical fumes, especially from the concentrated 

chemical. 

5. Never eat, drink, or smoke when handling chemicals. 

6. Use all the safety equipment listed on the label. Keep your skin 

completely covered by wearing protective clothing, waterproof boots, 

and rubber gloves. 

7. Mix chemicals for immediate use only and dispose of any left over 

solution (See Pesticide Disposal). 

8. Carefully return left over concentrated pesticides to the original 

container for storage (See Safe Storage of Pesticides). 

9.Use separate spray applicators for insecticides, fungicides and 

herbicides. Traces of herbicides, even in a well washed sprayer, may 

damage sensitive plants. 

10. Apply pesticides on a calm day. Reduce drift through larger 

droplets, low spray pressure, and low spray height. 



1 

“A gardener who knows his flowers and is ignorant of weeds now 

seems to me to be like half a coin, a tail without a head." 

-Sara Stein (1988) 

After spraying thoroughly wash out your pesticide 

applicator and run some clean water through it. Wash your 

protective clothing separately from other clothing in hot 

water. Shower yourself, scrubbing with soap and warm 

water. If dust or sprays are spilled on your skin or clothing, 

remove clothing immediately and wash contaminated skin 

with warm, soapy water. Keep children and pets out of the 

treated area for 24 hours to prevent them from coming in 

contact with the pesticides. When spraying vegetables, 

fruits, or berries, note the number of days before harvest 

listed on the product label. Make sure that no food products 

are eaten from plants treated with pesticides until after the 

appropriate number of days have passed. 

It is also important to follow up on spray applications. 

Check to see how affective the pesticide treatment was. Is 

another application required or have the fungi, insects, or 

weeds been controlled? 

Since pest problems reoccur annually and throughout 

the growing season it is important to know how to safely 

store pesticides. Pesticides are poisons and should be 

stored accordingly. 

1. Store pesticides in a cool, dry location up out of reach 

of kids. 

2. Store chemicals in a locked cupboard away from food, 

medicine, animal feeds, and cleaning compounds. 

3. Always store pesticides in their original containers. 

4. Keep the containers tightly closed when not in use. 

Always store pesticides where they are not exposed 

to freezing temperature or excessive heat. Extreme 

fluctuations in temperature will considerably reduce a 

pesticide's shelf life. 

5. Store volatile herbicides such as 2,4-D separately 

from other pesticides. 

Safe Disposal of Pesticides 

Disposal of unwanted pesticides in a proper manner. 

The best precaution against disposal problems is to purchase 

only small amounts of pesticides that can be used 

up. 

1. To dispose of unwanted pesticides contact the Waste 

and Chemicals Division of the Alberta Government 

(See Important Telephone Numbers). They will be 

able to inform you as to where to drop-off unwanted, 

unmarked, corroded, or damaged pesticide containers. 

2. Dispose of leftover pesticide solutions by diluting them 

with water. Combine the solution with three times as 

much fresh water, a triple rinse, and dispose of this 

highly diluted pesticide solution by pouring it into the 

soil in the area where the chemical was originally applied. 

3. Do NOT pour pesticides down the drain or down an 

outside storm sewer drain. 

4. Destroy or dispose of empty containers ASAP. Do 

not leave empty containers around and never re-use 

pesticide containers. 

5. Break, puncture, or crush pesticide containers before 

disposing of them. Always dispose of empty pesticide 

containers in an outside garbage. 

Herbicides 

There are two main types of herbicides, or weed killers: 

Non- Selective and Selective. 

Round-Up is a non-selective herbicide, killing most 

annual and perennial grasses, including lawn grasses, 

broadleaf weeds and brush. (i.e.) virtually anything that 

is green and growing). It is a translocated herbicide that 

is absorbed by the leaves and moves through the stem 

to the roots to kill the entire plant. Results usually takes 7 

- 10 days. Repeat applications may be necessary as new 

seedings and vegetation emerge. Round-Up is not a soil 

sterilant. It has no soil activity and will not leach or run off to 

affect nearby vegetation. 

Killex is a selective herbicide that kills most broadleaf 

weeds. It works by making the weed grow extremely 

rapidly, completing its life cycle. It can safely be sprayed 

onto weeds in the lawn, killing the weed, but not injuring the 

grass. Results take 7 days, and repeat applications may be 

necessary for new seedlings. 

Herbicides should be applied on a warm calm day, 

when rain is not expected for at least six hours. Care should 

be taken to apply herbicides close to ground level with either 

a heavy spray or a dust free watering can. Mist can be 

picked up by a slight breeze and carried to desirable plants. 

For best results, weeds should also be dust free. 

Soil Sterilizers 

Soil Sterilizers kill everything growing in the soil where 

they are applied. They can also move in the soil, and kill 

trees many feet away from the place of application. They 

move farther and more quickly in sandy soil than in heavy 

clay, and move in the direction water drains. Soil sterilizers 

can persist in the soil for several years. Remember that tree 

roots can grow a considerable distance, so they can move 

into an area where a long-lasting herbicide is still active 

several years after application. Generally, it is safer to use 

a herbicide such as Round-Up, which is decontaminated 

upon contact with soil and kills only what is sprayed. 

Metric Conversion 

volume 

1 tsp. = 5ml. 

1 tbsp. = 3 tsp. or 15ml. 

1 oz. = 30 ml. 

1 cup = 8 oz. or 250 ml. 

4 cups = 1000 ml. or 1 litre 

1 gal. = 4.5 litre 

WEIGHT 

1 oz. = 28 g. 

9 oz. = 250 g. 

1 lb. = 454 g. 

2.2 lb = 1000 g or 1 kg 

11 lb. = 5 kg. 

22 lb. = 10 kg. 

1 in. = 2.54 cm. 

6 in. = 15.24 cm. 

12 in. = 30.48 cm. 

3.3 ft. = 1 m. 

1 ft. = 30.5 cm. 

10 ft. = 3 m. 

AREA 

11 sq. ft. = 1 sq. m. 

110 sq. ft. = 10 sq. m. 

1100 sq. ft. = 100 sq. m. 

5376 sq. ft. = 500 sq. m. 

(approximate measurements) 

LENGTH

inSeCtiCiDeS (partial list only) 

Trade Name Active Mode of Formulation Features/Uses Pests 

Ingredient Action Controlled 

Ambush permethrin contact liquid spray Synthetic pyrethroid for outdoor insects 

tree and garden 

Antkiller carbaryl contact granules Lawn/garden ant control outdoor ants 

Aqua Bac Bacillus thuringensis stomach pellets Biological insecticide for mosquito larvae 

israelensis poison standing water outdoors 

BTK Bacillus stomach liquid spray Biological insecticide caterpillars, worms 

thuringensis poison Bacteria disrupts stomach lining 

Carbolic Soap carbolic acid contact soap bar Apply to lawn dew worms 

Creepy Crawly permethrin contact aerosol Synthetic pyrethroid for indoor/outdoor 

cracks and crevices non-flying insects 

Diatomaceous Earth silicon dioxide long lasting abrasive Diatomaceous earth crawling insects 

residual powder scratches insects body 

Dormant Oil mineral oil contact, liquid spray Dormant oil breaks down scale, mealybugs, 

residual insect's waxy coating insect eggs 

End-All vegetable oil; contact liquid spray Miticide/insecticide; outdoor aphid, spider mite, 

pyrethrin whitefly, caterpillar, 

scale, thrips, etc. 

Hornet & Wasp Spray resmethrin; contact, foam, Spray wasp or hornet nest wasps, hornets 

permethrin residual jet spray 

HYPE-O Hypoaspis mites predator granules Avail. for indoor or outdoor fungus gnat, thrips 

Insecticidal Soap potassium salts contact liquid spray Mild insecticide soft-bodied insects 

of fatty acids Dessicates body fluids 

Rotenone Garden Dust rotenone stomach powder Natural organic insecticide; outdoor insects 

poison extremely toxic to fish 

Sevin; Bug-B-Gon carbaryl contact liquid Spray fruit, vegetables,lawns outdoor insects 

Trounce insecticidal soap; contact liquid spray Avail. in outdoor yard/garden aphids, spider mite 

pyrethrin or indoor houseplant forms whitefly, caterpillar, 

psyllid, etc. 

inSeCtiCiDeS for HoUSePLAnt PeStS 

Color/ Plant Plant Feeding Insecticidal Cultural 

Pest Description Damage Hosts Action Control Control 

Aphid usually green wilting flowers/ most plants suck sap pyrethrin remove heavily 

or black yellowing insecticidal soap infested leaves 

Fungus Gnat small black root damage most potted larvae resmethrin; allow soil to dry out 

flies plants eat roots HYPE-O between waterings 

Mealy Bug grayish-white; plant stunting mostly cacti suck sap pyrethrin hand-picking 

cottony, wingless and succulents 

Scale dark brown; leaf spotting most plants suck sap pyrethrin, pruning or picking 

shell-like, wingless insecticidal soap 

Spider Mite minute red or leaf spotting most plants suck sap insecticidal soap, misting reduces 

two-spotted mite miticide population 

Thrips tiny, dark silvery streaks most plants suck sap pyrethrin keep dry 

slender flies 

Whitefly small white plant stunting fuschia, daisies, suck sap pyrethrin sticky yellow boards 

moth-like insects tomatoes, etc. 



1 6 

fUnGiCiDeS 



Bulb and Soil Dust captan; protectant powder Fungicide/insecticide fungal rot, 

carbaryl contact applied to bulbs and soil soil borne insects 

Copper Spray copper protectant wettable Prevents fungal disease mildew, blight, black 

contact powder on yard/garden plants spot, anthracnose 

Folpet folpet protectant wettable Prevents fungal disease powdery mildew, 

sytemic powder on roses and ornamentals black spot 

Funginex triforine protectant liquid spray Prevents fungal disease powdery mildew, rust, 

systemic on roses and ornamentals black spot 

Garden Sulphur sulphur protectant wettable powder Prevents many fungal powdery mildew, black 

contact liquid spray fruit and foliage diseases spot, anthracnose, rust 

LIme Sulphur sulphide protectant liquid spray Prevents fungal diseases powdery mildew, black 

sulphur contact on fruit/foliage; used with spot, anthracnose, etc 

Dormant Oil to kill overwin- insect eggs, scale 

tering insects; fungal spores 

Tomato and copper; protectant powder Insecticide/fungicide fungal diseases; 

Potato Dust carbaryl contact insect pests 

HerBiCiDeS 



Calcide amitrole; soil residual liquid Non-selective herbicide kills all vegetation 

simazine One year soil residual 

Chickweed, Clover M.C.P.P. contact liquid Selective herbicide for ckickweed, clover, 

& Thistle (mecaprop) systemic broad-leaf weeds thistle 

Killex 2,4-D; dicamba contact liquid Selective herbicide for broad-leaf weeds 

mecoprop systemic broad-leaf weeds in lawn 

Moss Control ferrous liquid or Controls moss in lawns; moss 

sulphate granular do not use on cement 

Roundup glyphosate systemic liquid Non-selective herbicide kills all green vegetation 

for perennial weed control incl. grass and thistles 

Weedex Bar 2,4-D contact solid bar Non-volatile, no spray drift dandelions, plantain 

systemic kills broad-lf. weeds in lawns

PeStS & ProBLemSWeeD iDentifiCAtion 

The best definition of a weed is a plant that grows where it is not 

wanted. Invasive weeds are those that grow in the wrong place 

and are very hard to get rid of. These have been categorized as 

nuisance, noxious, and restricted. Nuisance weeds are kept in 

check to prevent their spread; they may be problematic but do 

not threaten habitats or species. Noxious weeds are controlled 

and can cause problems with habitats. Finally, restricted weeds 

are destroyed when found. These weeds threaten other species 

of plants or animals with extinction. 

Weeds are further classified as perennial or annual forms. 

Perennial weeds come up every year from the same roots. 

Examples of this type are thistles or quackgrass. Generally 

these weeds have swollen roots which store energy much like 

perennial plants; some even begin as perennial plants brought 

into the garden. As a result these weeds are very hard to control. 

Chemicals that are effective on these plants will also kill or 

damage ornamental plants and are uaually not recommended, 

though Round-Up can be carefully painted on the leaves of 

the weed. Cultural methods include trying to remove the entire 

plant, simply removing the top every time it comes to the surface 

(eventually this will exhaust the weed's energy supply) and using 

landscape fabric in evergreen plantings or perennial beds. 

Annual weeds sprout from seed every year; the plants do 

not survive the winter. Because of this, annual weeds seed 

themselves in greater profusion than perennial weeds. On the 

positive side, these weeds are much easier to take care of. A 

consistent program of cultivation, that is turning the top inch or 

so of soil over periodically, will destroy weed seedlings. If your 

vegetable or annual garden is heavily infested an application 

of Round-Up on a warm spring day before you plant will be 

successful on any weeds that have germinated. Never spray 

Round-Up near the leaves of any plants you wish to keep 

such as perennials, ornamental trees, evergreens, annuals, 

or vegetables because it is a non-selective herbicide and will 

kill or damage every plant it touches. Chemicals like Killex, or 

selective herbicides that kill everything except grasses, are not 

recommended because they remain active in the soil and will 

damage anything planted in the area. 

Pictured on this page are a few of the common and problem 

weeds in our area. For further information visit our website. 

Creeping Bellflower 

A perennial weed commonly 

found in alleys. Aggressively 

invades lawns and 

gardens through seeds 

Wild Mustard 

An annual weed commonly 

found in newly developed 

areas. 

Ox-Eye Daisy 

Shallow-rooted perennial that 

spreads by rhizomes and 

seeds. Classified as noxious. 

Yellow Toadflax 

(Butter & Eggs) 

Perennial that reproduces 

from seed and rootstocks. 

Spotted Knapweed 

This biennial/short-lived 

perennial is a major problem 

as other plants cannot 

compete with it. 

Field Bindweed 

Introduced perennial with 

extremely well-developed 

root system. Classified as 

noxious. 

Canada Thistle 

A vigorous perennial that 

spreads by seeds and roots. 

Classified as noxious. 

Purple Loosestrife 

This perennial is said to 

invade wetlands and choke 

out plant and animal life. 

Common Tansy 

This aromatic perennial 

spreads by seed. 

It is classified as noxious. 

Scentless Camomile 

Annual or short-lived perennial 

with prolific seed 

production. Classified as 

noxious. 



1 

PeStS & ProBLemSWeeD iDentifiCAtion 

Name(s) Annual 

Biennial or 

Perennial 

Description Spreads 

by: 

Fields 

Beds or 

Lawns 

Registered 

Herbicide 

Control 

Restricted 

Nuisance or 

Noxious 

Weed 

BUCKWHEAT- annual small green flowers seeds fields Nuisance in AB 

Wild or Tartary heart-shaped lvs, clasping stems and beds 

CHAMOMILE- biennial white, daisy-like flowers seeds fields Noxious in 

Scentless dissected lvs on branched stems Calgary & Alberta 

CHICKWEED- annual tiny, white, star-shaped flowers seeds, shaded Killex Nuisance in AB 

Common opposite, oval lvs, prostrate stems layering beds 

CLOVER perennial pink or white flowers seeds lawns Killex 

rounded leaflets 

DANDELION perennial yellow daisy-like flwr. heads seeds, lawns Killex Noxious in Calgary 

basal rosette of toothed lvs. roots beds, fields Nuisance in AB 

FLIXWEED annual small yellow flower clusters seeds fields Nuisance in AB 

dissected lvs on branched stems and beds 

FOXTAIL perennial green foxtail flower spikes seeds fields Noxious in Calgary 

(Wild Barley) linear leaves on round stems Nuisance in AB 

GROUND IVY perennial purple flowers, round leaves stolons beds Killex 

Creeping Charlie square, spreading stems and lawns 

GROUNDSEL- annual yellow flower heads seeds fields 

Common fleshy leaves and stems and beds 

KNAPWEED- biennial purple or white flower heads seeds fields Restricted in AB 

Diffuse or Spotted alternate lvs on branched stems 

KNOTWEED- annual small inconspicuous flowers seeds roadsides Killex 

Prostrate prostrate stems with small lvs 

KOCHIA annual inconspicuous flowers seeds fields Noxious in Calgary 

(Cypress) narrow lvs on branching stems 

LAMB'S QUARTERS annual small green flwrs, grooved stems seeds fields Killex Nuisance in AB 

alternate stalked leaves and beds 

LOOSESTRIFE- perennial purple flower spikes seeds, wetlands Noxious in AB 

Purple (Lyrthum salicaria) seeds/stems invade wetlands stems 

MALLOW- annual tiny white flowers seeds beds Killex Nuisance in AB 

Round-leaved round lvs on spreading stems 

NETTLE- annual pink flwrs, opposite oval lvs seeds fields Nuisance in AB 

Hemp hairy, square stems and beds 

PIGWEED- snnual green flower spikes seeds fields Killex Nuisance in AB 

Redroot red roots and stems and beds 

PLANTAIN- annual long, narrow, green flwr spikes seeds lawns Killex 

Broad-leaved basal rosette of lvs, basal stem 

PURSLANE annual inconspicuous yellow flowers seeds fields Killex 

(Wild Portulaca) prostrate, succulent stems and beds 

QUACK GRASS perennial green flower spikes seeds, fields Roundup Noxious in Calgary 

(Couch Grass) flat-leafed blades on hollow stems rhizomes beds, lawns Nuisance in AB 

SHEPHERD'S PURSE annual small white flowers, basal lvs. seeds fields Killex Nuisance in AB 

purse-shaped seed pods and beds 

SPURGE- perennial yellow flowers, linear lvs. roots, beds Noxious in AB 

Leafy or Cypress stems contain milky sap seeds 

STINKWEED annual numerous, small white flwrs. seeds fields Killex Noxious in Calgary 

narrow lvs, round seed pods and beds Nuisance in AB 

THISTLE- perennial upright purple flwr heads roots, beds Roundup Noxious in Calgary 

Canada spiny leaves and stems seeds and fields Killex and Alberta 

THISTLE- biennial nodding purple flwr heads seeds fields Restricted in AB 

Nodding spiny leaves and stems 

THISTLE- perennial upright yellow flwr heads seeds, fields Killex Noxious in Calgary 

Sow toothed lvs on smooth stems roots and beds and Alberta 

TOADFLAX-Yellow perennial yellow snap-dragon-like flwrs. roots, fields Roundup Noxious in Calgary 

(Butter & Eggs) linear lvs, creeping rootstocks seeds and Alberta

CHriStmAS At GoLDen ACre 

Come in and see our expanded Christmas department! 

Every year our talented staff spend six feverish weeks 

transforming the store into a beautiful Christmas shop. 

We carry a wonderful array of ornaments, garlands, 

trees (both everlasting and cut), Dept. 56 and other 

collectibles, Nativity scenes, Christmas plants 

(naturally) and much more. Make a point of stopping 

in this holiday season; it's well worth the trip. 

freSH CUt treeS 

We bring in hundreds of cut trees every year, filling our 

covered lot by mid-November. Here you will find BC 

Fir and Balsam Fir. We also carry fresh cedar, balsam, 

and mixed evergreen boughs, garlands, and wreaths. 

Ask our staff for assistance and they will gladly give the 

tree a fresh cut, wrap it, and help you out to your car. Be 

sure to pick up a tree-disposal bag and Christmas Tree 

Food. The bag will help reduce the mess left by falling 

needles and the food will significantly increase the life 

of your tree. If you add food to the tree's water, keep it 

away from a heat source like the fireplace or a register. 

Always ensure the water is topped up your tree should 

be fine until well after Christmas. We carry a very good 

selection of decorative tree stands for your cut tree. 

Lately we have had a number of requests for living 

Christmas trees that you can plant outside after the 

holidays are over. Unfortunately, these evergreens 

find it too dry inside and have a difficult time. If the tree 

survives the Christmas season then you are faced with 

planting it either in frozen soil or a dry, climactically 

unstable conditions. The vast majority of trees treated in 

this manner die in Alberta conditions. Norfolk Island Pine 

or Goldcrest Cypress are available in our houseplant 

section and can be decorated for Christmas. These trees 

must remain inside because they are tropical evergreens 

and cannot survive our winters. 

eVerLAStinG 

CHriStmAS treeS 

We have a large selection of everlasting trees in many 

styles and colours ranging from traditional green and 

blue through to silver and even black. The trees come 

in sizes from 24 inches all the way up to 14 feet. We 

also carry a variety of everlasting wreaths, swags, and 

garlands. Ask our staff how to string the lights on the tree 

so you can leave them on until next year. 

1 

CHriStmAS

CHriStmAS 

1 0 

CHriStmAS At GoLDen ACre 

We are proud to be one of the city's largest dealers of 

Dept. 56 ceramic and porcelain houses. Golden Acre 

carries most village pieces and Snowbabies. We hold 

special event days for collectors and the general public. 

Listed below are the Dept. 56 lines we carry throughout 

the year. Come in and see our permanent display. 

DiCKenS' ViLLAGe 

Take a journey back to Victorian London with this collection. 

Quaint shops and homes, inspired in part by the 

novels of Charles Dickens, show us what Christmas was 

like in this bygone era. Made of hand-crafted porcelain 

by highly skilled artisans, this series was introduced in 

1984 to capture both the detail of the times and the spirit 

of holidays past, present and yet to come. Many pieces 

even feature animation or sound for additional authenticity 

and fun. Best of all, a multitude of accessories add 

realism and depth to your holiday village setting. 

nortH PoLe SerieS 

The home of everyone’s favorite jolly old elf, Santa, Mrs. 

Claus and all their busy little helpers. Sprinkled with newfallen 

snow, these brightly-lit, porcelain buildings and 

fanciful accessories make for a legendary wonderland 

only Santa could imagine. Santa’s North Pole is a place 

of joy - where he, Mrs. Claus and the elves live, play 

and prepare for Christmas each year. 

CHriStmAS in tHe City 

Introduced in 1987, it’s just the place for excitement 

and cheer. Inspired by the hustle and bustle of city 

sidewalks, this hand-painted, porcelain cityscape is 

filled with lighted shops, restaurants, theatres, homes 

and, of course, busy shoppers, carolers and loads of 

well-wishers. It’s the quintessential city all dressed up 

for the holidays. 

The enchanting lighted buildings are generally two 

stories in height and are home to the usual cast of 

characters including holiday shoppers, city police cars, 

party-goers, and, naturally, town tree trimmers.

LiVinG GiftS 

We have one of the best selections of flowering plants in the city, including azaleas, orchids, holiday cactus, cyclamen, 

kalanchoe, and pot mums. For unique gifts don't forget to check out the rest of our indoor plants including 

cactus and bonsai. Of course, we carry poinsettias available in red, pink, white, gold, marbled and variegated 

types. We also have new varieties like the double-flowering 'Christmas Rose' and the ruffled 'Carousel'. 

CHooSinG A PoinSettiA 

Look for dark green foliage and brightly colored bracts (the coloured leaves surrounding the true flowers). 

Avoid poinsettias with wilted foliage, broken stems, or few flowers. 

HoW to CAre for yoUr PoinSettiA 

Always take care to keep the plant warm. Never take it outside since exposure to freezing temperatures, even 

for a short while, may cause the leaves to blacken and drop. We will wrap your poinsettia to help prevent this 

but make sure you take it home quickly. The paper sleeve will not protect you plant during an extended stopover 

in a cold car. 

Once you get home place the poinsettia near, but not touching, a sunny window or in another well-lit spot. Make 

sure to keep it away from draughts. Water only when the soil becomes dry to the touch. 

Are PoinSettiAS PoiSonoUS? 

A common myth about poinsettias is that they are poisonous. This is not true (though they are of a low toxicity 

to cats); studies conducted by the Ohio State University concluded that they are not poisonous though certain 

individuals may experience an allergic reaction to the sap. 

re-fLoWerinG 

To get your poinsettia to flower again next year you must follow these steps: 

•Cut the plant back to around 8" high in early April, fertilize with all-purpose fertilizer, and water regularly. This 

should result in new growth by the end of May. 

•You may prune during the summer to keep plants compact but do not prune any later than September 1. Keep 

the poinsettias in indirect sun and water them regularly. 

•Starting October 1 poinsettias must be kept in complete darkness (no light at all - not even streetlights or a 

nightlight) for 14 hours and at a temperature of 16-21 degrees Celsius. In order to do this cover them or move 

them into a dark room every night. Poinsettias also need 6-8 hours of bright sunlight a day during this period. 

Carefully follow these instructions for 8-10 weeks and you should get flowers for Christmas. 

HoLiDAy CACtUS 

Getting your Holiday Cactus to rebloom is a lot like getting a poinsettia to rebloom. Once the plant has stopped 

flowering, begin feeding with an all purpose fertilizer. Do not fertilize while in bloom as this will cause a shorter 

blooming period. You also need to limit the number of daylight hours the plant is exposed to. It needs 14-16 hours 

of darkness and only 8 hours of light each day. Repeat this for 8-12 weeks, and before you know it you will have 

beautiful Holiday Cactus blooms once again. 

CHriStmAS 

1 1

Introducing Miracle-Gro LiquaFeed - 

the unique plant feeding system 

that makes it easier than ever to get 

spectacular results in your garden. 

Getting started is 

as easy as 1-2-3 

1 Attach to your hose 

2 Insert a refill bottle 

of liquid Miracle-Gro 

3 Start feeding by 

turning the dial to 'feed' 

Miracle-Gro LiquaFeed 

automatically mixes plant food 

with water at the perfect rate. 

No more mixing, 

measuring or mess! 

Grows plants twice as big - guaranteed! 

WATER ONLY FED EVERY 2 WEEKS 

WITH MIRACLE-GRO 

LIQUAFEED 

Miracle-Gro 

LiquaFeed is simply 

the easiest way to 

grow your plants 

twice as big, with 

twice the vegetables 

and twice the blooms. 

www.miracle-gro.ca

Garden Guide - Golden Acre Garden Sentre

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