The only thing better than visiting one castle in a day, is visiting two. This is especially true when that second visit seemed improbable earlier that same day. In the late morning, my companions and I were standing in the soaking rain at Restormel Castle trying to admire the ruins amid a downpour. At the time, it looked like the weather was only going to get worse. We had gone from drizzle in Truro to drenching rainfall in Restormel. As the morning wore on the weather only grew worse. The forecast called for further showers. This deluge was not my idea of a shower.

I am no weather expert, and certainly not one when it comes to climatic conditions in Great Britain. I figured the sun might come out tomorrow, but today was a lost cause. Much to my surprise, the weather progressively would grow better. By the time we arrived at Bodmin Moor the rainfall had abated enough that the potential for further travel looked promising. While warming up with a cup of coffee in Minions Shop and Tearoom, I began to search for attractions that might be nearby. This was when I came upon Launceston Castle, the remnants of which stood above the town of that same name. I had never heard of Launceston, but its hilltop castle which looms over the town looked promising.

Looking up – Launceston Castle

Border Control – The Looming Castle
Launceston was not on my radar. For that matter, I doubt that it is on anyone else’s radar unless they have family, friends, or work there. Today, Launceston is a moderately prosperous town of 9,200, but it is many centuries past its prime. The town is an excellent example of how history is dynamic and always progressing. Places that were once important lose their status due to changes in politics, economics, society, and culture. A place that once held great status can just as easily become another anonymous town except for those who live in or around it. Such places often contain monuments of their once exalted status, even if they have spent the past few centuries languishing in obscurity. Launceston is one of these as it was once the county town (location of administrative and judicial functions) for Cornwall.

Launceston’s status seems a bit odd because it is not centrally located in Cornwall. Instead, it is in the northeastern extremity of the county, just a couple of miles from the border with Devon. That puts it on the fringes of Cornwall. Like many border towns, security was a paramount concern. As such, the castle came first, as a town grew within its wooden walls. Eventually the castle would be rebuilt in stone, ensuring its permanence and prominence. Launceston was the most important point of entry into Cornwall through the Middle Ages and in the early modern period. The town is located just two miles from the Tamar River, which historically has been both the natural and political border between Cornwall and Devon. Launceston Castle guarded this critical access route into the county.

Keeping watch – View northward from Launceston Castle

The Proud Tower – An Enduring Addition
Anyone wanting to enter Cornwall by land during the Middle Ages and into the early modern period would almost certainly pass through Launceston. It is no surprise then that the Castle has a long, storied, and somewhat infamous history.  The Castle’s direct antecedent was a wooden structure atop a natural hilltop in the same location as the current castle. This iteration was constructed after the Norman Conquest in the latter part of the 11^th century. When the castle was rebuilt in stone during the 12^th century, this included the construction of a shell keep, part of which still stands today. The castle underwent its most substantial transformation under Richard, Earl of Cornwall. His most striking and enduring addition was a tower within the area enclosed by the shell keep. Richard was particularly proud of this tower because it allowed those visiting the castle to get a birdseye view of the surrounding lands which were under his control. If wealth was ever measured by a visual perspective, than Richard was a very rich man.

As soon as I spotted the castle during the drive into Launceston, I knew no visit would be complete without summiting the tower. It stood out as a focal point, drawing the eye upward. The climb was broken up by exhibits in a small visitor center which provided highlights of the castle’s history. This included information about its use as a prison which became rather infamous as those accused of crimes were kept in substandard conditions. As impressive as the castle appeared from the perspective of a tourist, it would have been just as ominous for anyone taken to be imprisoned within its walls. In a dank and stone-cold castle, exposed to the wind, suffering would have been the norm. Survival the best any prisoner could expect. For visitors today, the greatest worry is the lung bursting climb to the castle It was like scaling a miniature mountain, except at its pinnacle was stone sculpted by the hand of man, rather than the forces of nature. Atop the castle flew St. Piran’s Flag (flag of Cornwall), with its formidable color combination of black with a white cross rippling in a stiff breeze.

Flying high – Flag of Cornwall at Launceston Castle

Beyond Expectations – The Improbable Journey
The climb was worth the effort. The tower offered outstanding views over Launceston and far beyond into the surrounding countryside with the rolling landscape covered in a carpet of greenery that stretched into the distant horizon. I enjoyed this view immensely. It was made all the better because my travel companions and I were no longer forced to dodge raindrops. Launceston Castle felt like a gift that had been given to us. A place that a few hours earlier we could not have imagined visiting. The weather at Restormel could not have been worse, at Launceston it could not have been better. A journey that had started in dour conditions had been transformed into one of delightful enchantment. Serendipity had smiled down upon us. After Launceston Castle, there was nowhere to go other than home. In a strange way, I already felt like I was there.

Click here for: A Daunting Presence – Truro Cathedral (Cornwall Chronicles #17)