A guide to the Swiss fairytale town of St Gallen

This charming Swiss hamlet has a long tradition of exquisite embroidery and family-run ateliers such as Akris
A guide to the Swiss fairytale town of St Gallen

This Baroque hamlet tucked between Lake Constance and the Swiss Alps has a rich heritage of craft, design, food and culture. Among the cobbled lanes banked by turret-capped, shutter-flanked townhouses and tall, ancient trees, visitors will discover a world of gilded medieval libraries, folkloric archives and Rococo cathedrals. This is a land untouched by motorways or skyscrapers, with the blue mountains and rolling hills never out of sight.

St Gallen was once known as the embroidery capital of the world, with century-old textile houses such as Forster Rohner, Bischoff and Jakob Schlaepfer supplying lace across Europe, and the invention of the embroidery machine here in the early 1900s. This tradition continues through fashion house Akris, which celebrates its centenary next year. Originally founded by Alice Kriemler-Schoch as an atelier for embroidered aprons, the family-owned and run brand is now one of the most respected maisons in the industry. Creative director Albert Kriemler, grandson of Kriemler-Schoch, was so inspired by his home town that he dedicated his AW21 line to the region – resulting in a collection filled with locally stitched, bespoke embroidery fabrics and even an intricate recreation of the town map crafted into dresses, skirts and jackets.

With a unique, untouched charm, St Gallen attracts the artistically minded in search of a more rural, design-led way of life. Whether you fancy exploring its food scene or delving around its charming architecture, a trip to St Gallen should be on your radar – here’s our insider pick of its highlights.

What to see

Dominating the St Gallen skyline is the Abbey of St Gall, an eighth-century monastery now home to one of the world's foremost medieval centres. The Abbey Library, with its magnificent, dreamlike hall lined with leather-bound tomes under a vaulted frescoed sky, is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. The inscription above its entrance reads ΨYXHΣ IATPEION, meaning ‘healing place for the soul’, and anyone who’s ever got lost in a good book can attest to this. 

There’s also the Kunstmuseum St Gallen, curated by Roland Wäspe, and the Kinok arthouse cinema at the Lokremise, with weekly themes edited by Sandra Meier. For nature-led escapism, visitors can take a gondola (cable car) to the top of Mount Säntis, the highest peak in the Alpstein massif, for views reaching over Switzerland to Germany, Austria, Liechtenstein, France and Italy, or while away the hours at the Drei Weieren swimming lakes lined with traditional wooden bathhouses. Originally a water supply for the town's textile trade, the ponds have been a popular spot since the 18th century – in the summer there’s a daily ‘bathing bus’ shuttle from Marktplatz. 

And, of course, the town’s artisanal heritage also has to be explored. The Textile Museum, opened in 1886, documents the history of lace and embroidery among other handicrafts and regional techniques, some of which are still used by Akris to this day.

Where to eat

Similar to the textile industry, food here is handmade, authentic and never rushed. Many recipes have been passed through families for generations, if not centuries, resulting in refined plates leaning on time-tested local ingredients. One must-try dish is the St Gallen Bratwurst. Dating back to the Middle Ages, it's a veal sausage cooked with bacon, spices and fresh milk; each butcher in town has their own version, and the exact mixture and method is a closely guarded secret. Though choosing the best would be an impossibility, the offering at Metzgerei Gemperli on Schmiedgasse is highly regarded locally and a good introduction to the delicacy. 

Other foodie highlights are the Gipfel (a Swiss pastry, somewhere between a croissant and baklava) served at La Panetteria, and chocolates from Praliné Scherrer, bespoke versions of which are served at the Akris shows. For an evening meal, there’s Ristorante Facincani, an Italian spot just outside the old city, which makes fagottini, a stuffed, lantern-shaped pasta. And reservations must be made for the best table in town at Einstein Gourmet, where chef Sebastian Zier has earned two Michelin stars for his French-fusion haute cuisine.

Where to drink

Craft beer may be having a moment in cool bars, but in St Gallen it's been a staple since the 1700s. The oldest brewery in Switzerland can be found here; Schützengarten is an independent company creating the finest range of craft ales and lagers. Family-run for two centuries, it pioneered hydroelectricity as a means of production, utilising the Drei Weieren lakes to create its signature flavours; head to its tap room and beer-bottle museum on St Jakob-Strasse to try a brew for yourself. For local wines and gins, head to Weinstein Vinothek, part of the Einstein Hotel – it’s a slick bar and tasting room with vintages from St Gallen’s premier vineyard, Martel Weine. For a softer pit-stop, Chocolaterie Kölbener makes the best Heisse Schoggi (hot chocolate) around.

What to pack 

When packing for St Gallen, think practical but luxurious; good-quality coats that work just as well on the Alps as they do at a bar, and a dress that can take you from an afternoon of gallery hopping to an elegant evening supper. Look for pieces in keeping with the town’s aesthetic – a chic colour palette of muted natural tones, earthy forest greens and sky blues, punctuated with crisp whites and creams. The latest collection from Akris ticks all the style boxes, with grown-up staples such as A-line skirts and fine knits perfectly designed, a slight twist adding an extra touch of refinement to any outfit. Look out for subtle pieces featuring St Gallen-made embroidery, or indulge your inner maximalist with Kriemler’s map-print fabric, an ode to the town that inspired him. Here are the wardrobe must-haves.

An asymmetric skirt that takes you from A to B, this neoprene statement piece is perfect for pairing with boots and a knit for a winter getaway. 

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A smart leather jacket in deep emerald green, lined with silk and with two utility pockets for style and practicality in one.

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An elegant, goes-with-everything cream knit with understated laser-cut embroidery cuffs for a touch of artistry.

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This luxe coat has a tile-embroidery pattern in navy, blue and green – and a secret insulated under-layer for extra warmth.

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A striking twist on the classic tea dress, this zip-up design with high neck and structured panelling in crisp forest green is made from a unique embroidery crafted from the letters in ‘Akris’. A fitting tribute to an inspirational town.

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Discover more at akris.com