Port guide: what to see and do on a cruise ship excursion in Stornoway
By Julie Peasgood | 10 Feb 2023
The Uig Chessmen. Picture: Shutterstock/Marcin Kadziolka
Make the most of a cruise ship stop in the Outer Hebrides’ captivating capital with a guide to what to see and do, where to eat and which souvenirs to buy on a cruise excursion in Stornoway
A firm favourite on the BBC’s shipping forecast, Stornoway is the capital of Scotland’s Outer Hebrides, an ancient chain of islands home to magical white-sand beaches, awe-inspiring landscapes, remarkable wildlife, fresh seafood and an unrivalled peace and serenity.
Located on the east coast of Lewis, the most northerly of all the Western Isles, Stornoway began as a Viking settlement and is now a thriving port of call. While many cruise lines feature the islands’ largest town on their itineraries, the much-anticipated new Deep Water Terminal – currently under construction – is expected to be a game changer for cruise visitors because larger ships will no longer need to tender passengers in.
Stone circle at Callanish, Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides. Picture: Shutterstock/travellight
What to do on a cruise excursion in Stornoway
I first fell in love with Stornoway, and subsequently the Outer Hebrides, on a ship’s excursion. Although it’s a lively gateway to the islands, it remains unspoilt and has plenty to offer visitors.
Popular excursions provided by cruise lines cover the celebrated highlights of Lewis: the superb monolithic Callanish Standing Stones on the west coast, the historic Gearrannan Blackhouse Village, and Rib adventures along the coastline where you can spot seals, dolphins, basking sharks and dramatic sea caves.
Pre-dating Stonehenge at more than 5,000 years old, the world-famous Callanish Standing Stones are not only free, they are also open year-round. And unlike their southerly counterpart, touching them is permitted, meaning you can feel a connection with the most mysterious stone circle in Britain.
A short drive away is another must-see: the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village features a group of authentically restored thatched crofters’ cottages, so you can step back in time and experience a bygone Hebridean lifestyle.
Gearrannan Blackhouse Village, Isle of Harris. Picture: Shutterstock/Merle Robillard
Which of the Outer Hebrides islands can you visit on a cruise?
The island of Harris, adjoining Lewis to the south, is blessed with jaw-dropping, Caribbean-style beaches and turquoise seas, but given the distances involved, Harris is more likely to be covered by a private car or minibus tour.
Several ships offer day trips with assigned drivers, so although it is possible to rent your own car – and there is only one road south, so you won’t get lost – it may be a little daunting to attempt in a limited time frame.
But if you do wish to be independent and go off-piste, Stornoway is a safe place to explore and has lots to do within easy reach of the picturesque port. The Town Hall houses the Harris Tweed Authority, where you can watch skilled weavers working the looms to produce this unique cloth.
Then browse the Harris Tweed Hebrides shop for jackets, coats, bags and accessories in a myriad of colourful weaves.
Sandy beach and turquoise sea at Seilebost on the Isle of Harris, Scotland. Picture: Shutterstock/Helen Hotson
What is Stornoway famous for?
The Stornoway Smokehouse on Shell Street is renowned for its mouthwatering, whisky-cured smoked salmon, cheese, and peat-smoked kippers (if your cabin doesn’t have a fridge you can always order online for delivery at a later date).
And if you’re a fan of black pudding you’re in the right place, because Charles Macleod Butchers sells award-winning, gourmet black or white puddings that are second to none.
There is a cluster of excellent coffee shops in the town: Artizan, No.9, Kopi Java and my favourite, The Blue Lobster, are all very popular, as is antiques emporium Lewis Revival, full of eclectic, fascinating collectables.
It’s well worth visiting Lews Castle too, an imposing Gothic Revival-style castle built in the mid-1800s and set in lovely grounds overlooking the harbour. And don’t miss the Museum nan Eilean next door: immersive and interactive, it gives both historical and contemporary insights to the Hebrides, with well-presented exhibits including several of the original, iconic Lewis Chessmen.
Lews Castle, Stornoway. Picture: Shutterstock/MyTravelCurator
Which cruise lines visit Stornoway?
Cruise lines that feature Stornoway in their itineraries include: P&O Cruises, Azamara, Oceania Cruises, Hurtigruten, Saga, Fred Olsen Cruise Lines, Marella Cruises, Holland America Line, NCL, Celebrity Cruises, Seabourn, Cunard, Princess Cruises, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Carnival, Viking and Royal Caribbean International.
Highland cow, Isle of Harris. Picture: Shutterstock/BBA Photography
