The Underbanks, in Stockport, has become known as Stockport's coolest district. Its eclectic mix of independent boutiques, bakeries and bars, all of which are connected by a strong sense of community, has seen it referred to as the ‘Soho of the North’.
It's been a major renaissance for a part of the town which - with its historic buildings, steps, brows and bridges - was once one of the finest shopping districts in the region, but fell into decline in the late 20th century.
In the 19th century, it was a shopping mecca - complete with hosiers and milliners and curriers all plying their trade. It became so prestigious that Jacob Winters set up a jewellery shop half way down the street and installed an impressive automaton clock with 'soldier, sailor and old father time' marking the time.
But, by the noughties, the area had seen much better days - with some traders concerned it was being overlooked in favour of the Merseyway Shopping Centre, which opened in 1965.
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So, in 2017, when the council was awarded £1.8m from the National Heritage Fund to restore and refurbish the historic buildings in the Underbanks - in collaboration with Stockport Heritage Trust - there was hope that the area would be restored to its former glory.
As regeneration work has progressed and a new wave of trendy businesses have moved in, Stockport's 'Old Town' has become the centre of scene.
On the last Friday of every month, thousands descend on the Market Place for Foodie Friday, which often spills over into the wider Underbanks. And, if you visited Lower Hillgate during the summer, you may well have attended one of SK1 Records DJ takeovers, which sees people pack out Lower Hillgate for the ultimate Stockport street party.
But, despite this, the Underbanks is still peppered with empty units - with official numbers placing them at 17. And on weekdays, this historically significant series of streets and passageways, including Lower Hillgate and Little Underbank, falls quiet, with some of its best-known independent businesses closed.
There’s a stark contrast between the narrative of a bustling independent quarter, with its trendy boutiques, barber shops and bars and the sheer number of 'to let signs’ and boarded up shop fronts, many of which still bear the scars of neglect.
So what is happening in the ‘the new Berlin’ as it has been dubbed? Martin Wilson who owns magazine shop Rare Mags on Lower Hillgate with his partner Holly Carter, opened the store five years ago, and has spoken previously about Stockport’s regeneration not needing to be an ‘overnight success story’, but rather ‘long-term, organic and real’.
He says that stories about whether it is busy or not can be anecdotal and not always helpful. “We’re in a situation now where our expectations have been levelled off and met so many times that we’re trying not to take a constant read of how busy it is,” he explains.
“It can turn out that a rainy Tuesday afternoon can be the best day of the week and the biggest, buzziest Saturday can be poor for takings, so fixation with saying there’s no one on the street isn’t always the way to look at it. People will come into an empty independent and make a statement about it, but you wouldn’t if it was a chain or your local Co-op.”
"Trying to get people to move around Stockport is a constant battle"
Donna Law, owner of Cherry Girls Wardrobe, believes that people are still reacquainting themselves with Stockport's Old Town. “The 'Rediscovering The Underbanks' initiative has definitely worked, it’s brought people in, and made the markets and road along here more known to people. But I do still get people coming in, saying they haven’t been here in years and saying they didn’t know anything was along here.
Whilst she’s positive about the events taking place to reinforce the narrative around Stockport as a thriving market town, she does point to some ongoing issues with access and visibility that some of the businesses along the Underbank have to grapple with.
“When people come from Merseyway and get to the White Lion interchange they look down Lower Hillgate and because the street bends slightly, if nothing catches their eye they won’t come down it. And then, if they get as far as St Petersgate Bridge there’s still a lot of redevelopment going on, so they see boarded-up buildings or shutters and they may not think there’s any point going further.
“It’s trying to get people to move through the town. At the moment it doesn’t flow as a natural shopping area because even Petersgate and Underbank being on a different level can be challenging for people with accessibility issues.
“Stockport is very spread out and I don’t think the parking helps so people park where they need to go and then leave, they don’t stick around. So, if they go to Peel centre or Merseyway, they’ll just go there. Trying to get people to move around Stockport is a constant battle.”
For Coral Murphy, owner of Emiko, who opened her unisex clothing store on Great Underbank last year, the allure of the area for her was the strong independent spirit. She says people travel all over Greater Manchester to visit her shop, which features a studio space where the team will hand craft all its garments, and a space to shop its newest collections.
However, despite a promising first few months, Coral says she has had to rely on online sales due to dwindling footfall. “I would say around 95% of our sales come from online, which is good because we don’t need to rely on footfall, but also disappointing that we don’t get it.
“I'm constantly trying to do promotions to get more people in and I’ve refurbished the store and I’m seeing a bit of difference. I would say there’s not enough happening right now, it all seems to be two or three years away when there’s more residents here.
“I can see the change happening, my partner sells property in Stockport, and there’s definitely a buzz about it. However, it feels like it’s happening quite slowly, so we’re having to be patient, but some businesses can’t afford to be patient so I’m just grateful we can rely on online sales.”
On Merseyway, it’s a slightly different picture. While the large stores like M&S and BHS may have closed, there’s a steady stream of shoppers, many popping into Primark or heading down to the Peel Centre for shops like New Look, Home Bargains and The Range.
Christine Nutall, who is from Stockport and visits Merseyway and The Peel Centre most weeks but says she doesn’t often venture up to the Underbanks. “From what I’ve heard it’s getting a bit busier up there, but I don’t know if it’s all just cafes and bars opening up there, but obviously you only have to look around and there’s not much opening at Mersey Square here at the moment either.
“It’s a very general shopping experience in Stockport, and a lot of stuff you can just get online, click-and-collect, take it back - that’s why we’re actually here - but if you are here you sometimes end up popping into other shops.
“To be honest, parking is an issue. It used to be that you paid when you came in, and what I found then is that you felt rushed, and you could have got a coffee and looked around a bit but were up against the clock and it seems to be reverting back to that system. I don’t think it works because people would spend more money if they had more time.”
Aidin di lislee, 35 and his wife Rochelle, 31, who are originally from South Africa also visit Merseyway and The Peel Centre once a week, but say there is no time to browse the independent shops on the Underbanks. “We come in once a week and tend to go to Primark, TK Maxx and The Range,” says Aidin.
“We don’t really go up to the Underbanks, but sometimes the Market Hall, but it’s closed on Mondays when I’m off. We also have kids so we don’t often have time and just go to the big shops - to be honest it’s got everything we need down here.”
Meanwhile, Paul and Sue Gaskell, who are waiting outside Primark with their children, are back visiting the UK after moving to Brisbane 16 years ago. It’s Sue’s first time back in nine years and she can’t believe how much has changed.
“Lots of the shops that used to be here are gone and there doesn’t seem to be as much variety as there used to be. I used to come down to Debenhams and M&S a lot.
“Brisbane is a bit like here in that its main stores have closed down but they have heaps of malls and shopping centres, but all very close together so there’s lots of choice and also independent shops within them. Also a lot of amenities, nice, clean toilets and free parking, also lots of food halls so if you have kids you don’t need to be scarpering here, there and everywhere.”
"Stockport is on the up - but more big brands will draw people to independents too"
There’s a sentiment amongst shoppers on Merseyway that Stockport is a good place for convenience shopping, hence the higher footfall, but not much variety, while on Underbanks there’s an issue of weekday footfall and getting people to explore the area despite a strong roster of independent businesses.
David Howarth, who owns the popular independent coffee shop, Coffee Block, on the edge of Merseyway, just down from the Market, believes it’s all about location at the moment. “The idea was to bring an independent coffee shop to the high street, somewhere that could cope with high footfall, but also have that personal feel of an indie.
“I’m from Stockport so I’ve seen the change, it is mega, it’s definitely on the up. I just hope that there’s enough people to fill out all the things that are happening, like the bars and eateries, and more residential so it keeps evolving.”
Sarah O’Brian and Hannah who are working at The Pop Up store on Merseyway this week, and are part of a team that make and distribute hyper-local Stockport places really like the independent feel of the Underbanks, but think it would be good to get some more large retailers to draw people into the town and then hopefully visit the Underbanks too.
“I’ve been down to the Underbanks and spoken to a lot of the business owners down there and it's really nice, a very different feel to Merseyway, more independent,” says Sarah.
“Events like Foodie Friday are bringing people to the market area and Underbanks are amazing, but they’re only once a month so it’s trying to keep the momentum up after the event is done to attract people.
“People go to Primark because there isn’t anything else anymore, no M&S, no Debenhams, H&M went too - feels like we need to get those big brands back to be able to get that footfall and then they can also visit areas like the Underbanks.”
The difference between the two different types of shops people want is also apparent to Andy Beavers, 42, who lives on Didsbury Road.
“I’m up and down the Underbanks quite often. I like it and prefer shopping down here compared to the precinct. It has more character, it has more history and architecture, and feels more welcoming than the bigger stores. But the big shops like Primark definitely have a place in Stockport especially given the cost of things
“At the moment, I don’t think things link up well. With Great Underbanks Street it feels like a big divide really, then Princess Street and Red Rock, each has its own identity, and it’s the same with Merseyway. I think some people stick to Merseyway and big shops, and others will head up here for independent shopping.
“I think the Underbanks will emerge as an eating and drinking place eventually. It currently feels a bit hidden or forgotten once you get around the bend up there, but I’m confident that will change with time.”
2024 will be an exciting time for Underbanks
We asked Stockport council to confirm how many of the units on the Underbanks were empty and how many were currently being refurbished ready for sale or lease. We also asked the council to elaborate on the reasons for the empty units, and whether this was due to construction, heritage or landlord issues.
In response Stockport Council told us that 12 properties weren't ready yet - but that 2024 would be an 'exciting' time for Underbanks. A spokesperson said: "There are currently only 5 properties that are available for occupation and 12 other properties that are either awaiting planning approval or for redevelopment works to start on site. 2024 will be an exciting time for the Underbanks with lots planned to continue the transformation of the area.”
Commenting on the current regeneration around the Underbanks and wider Stockport town centre, Cllr Colin MacAlister, Cabinet Member for Economy, Regeneration and Housing at Stockport Council, said: “The Town Centre is currently benefiting from a £1bn investment programme which will transform the area and provide thousands of new homes and a vibrant new community. The Underbanks has also been recognised nationally as an up and coming area, with the Guardian calling it ‘One of the coolest little corners of the country’.
“Investment from the Council in the Underbanks has led to an increase in private sector investment, which is now a thriving community of specialist shops, cafes, bars and creative businesses. In addition, several buildings in the Underbanks have recently received planning consent, and these properties will be redeveloped for residential and commercial uses.
“We are actively working with landlords to bring these schemes forward. Interest from specialist retailers and hospitality businesses remains high, with some exciting announcements in the pipeline."
Big plans for Stockport
“Since its establishment in 2019, Stockport Mayoral Development Corporation (MDC) has delivered more than 1,100 new homes and created 110,000 sq ft of premium office space at Stockport Exchange with a further 64,000 sq ft of Grade A accommodation due to complete shortly," the council's statement continued.
“We are also making good progress with transforming the area west of Stockport train station into a new residential neighbourhood. Capital&Centric’s £60m transformation of Weir Mill is well underway creating 250 design-led apartments.
“Both elements are helping to bring more people into our town centre, which will help to boost our leisure and retail economy.
“Our new Transport Interchange development will improve public transport links for our residents and bring visitors directly into the centre of the borough. The residential development at the Interchange, together with the transformation of nearby Weir Mill, will also create high-quality homes for people to live in.
“Our new town centre park, that will sit on top of the Interchange development, will help to connect our neighbourhoods and communities. It will be a greenspace that residents from all over the borough can enjoy.
“Merseyway is home to a number of national operators including a very successful Primark, River Island, Sports Direct and Tessutti.
“In addition, we were delighted to announce earlier this year that JD Sports will be moving to a significantly larger store, which used to be home to BHS. The town also has a thriving independent scene and clothing retailer, Old Town General Store on the Underbanks, recently relocated to a larger premises.
“This year we have further invested in Merseyway with the replacement of the pavement plus new planting and street furniture.
“The redevelopment of the former BHS unit continues to create new retail units while we have created the Merseyway Innovation Centre and Stok at the former M&S site, which has repurposed space to attract additional users and generate footfall in the heart of our town centre.
“Both centres will give us more than 250,000 sq.ft. of new workspace in the Town Centre, supporting more than 2,500 new jobs.
“The Council works closely with partners such as Totally Stockport and other local organisations to deliver events and activities to help showcase the Underbanks and attract visitors to the area.
“Events included the Krazy Races, the Art Battle, Secret Street Party, Armed Forces Day, Stockport Pride and the recent Heritage Open Day.
“All of these events have helped us to celebrate, and cement, our status as Greater Manchester’s Town of Culture for 2023.
“Following the success of MerseyBeach in the centre over the summer, which saw thousands of visitors, Merseyway is gearing up for Autumn with plans that include a Halloween event inspired by ’Beetlejuice’.
“This will include free activities taking place at both Merseyway and neighbouring Redrock, while the team will also create an installation for Remembrance Day. An exciting new town-wide event to launch Christmas that is being delivered with our key partners will also be announced soon.
“The monthly makers Market and Foodie Friday in the Market Place are also very popular, attracting visitors from far and wide.
“Our status as Town of Culture has put us on the map as an exciting visitor destination, with a number of businesses and organisations in the Market & Underbanks having received Town of Culture funding to deliver exciting new workshops and activities.
“The street art trail has also been very popular, attracting visitors and adding character to the area. Due to its success, the next phase has recently been launched with three additional sites earmarked for these striking artworks.”
Addressing comments around parking, Stockport Council have also said that the new pedestrianisation scheme for the Market Place and Underbanks has improved the visitor experience for residents and businesses. These changes will enhance safety and provide an improved environment for those walking, cycling and wanting to spend more time in the area and will help with the growing demand for outdoor seating and activation activities on the Underbanks, the council says.
They say there is plenty of car parking provision within the vicinity of the Underbanks with Merseyway a few minutes’ walk away. Car parking remains free after 6pm in Council owned car parks.
Currently part of Great Underbank is blocked off. The council says this is to facilitate the Stockroom development, an accessible, family friendly learning and discovery space in the heart of the town centre, which, supported by £14.5m from the Future High Streets Fund, is moving into the old M&S building.
The council says this 'pioneering' use of empty retail space will help regenerate the town centre, support the local economy by offering access to a wide range of services in a convenient location - and crucially, attract visitors.
