Posted on 05/12/2018 by David
For those that know Snowdonia well, you might be forgiven for thinking that the words 'stroll' and 'Cwm Idwal' don't belong in the same sentence. Yet they can!
On a fine day a circular walk around Llyn Idwal affords the most jaw-dropping scenery of any cwm, or lake, in Wales, or arguably anywhere in the UK. It's also possible to walk round Llyn Ogwen, though this necessitates some footpath walking along the fast A5 road. Even so, the views easily compensate.
This article focuses on the path around Llyn Idwal. The route requires a reasonable level of fitness and sure-footedness. Although there are no major climbs it does involve walking on stone and loose rock. Many stretches have been laid with stones to make walking easier. Just as well, because it's hard to take your eyes off those incredible peaks and cliff faces all around you.
Afterwards you can grab a snack from the takeaway kiosk at Ogwen Cottage (check opening times), or try one of our suggestions for a more comfortable sit-down break. We recommend options in Bethesda and Capel Curig, so no matter which direction you're heading along the A5, there's somewhere to put your feet up.
Are we ready? Let's get walking!
Wales' very first National Nature Reserve
Cwm Idwal became Wales' first National Nature Reserve in 1954, around the same time Edmund Hillary held reunion mountain climbs here with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and the first conquerers of Everest. Today it's an adventure playground for hikers, climbers and rock scramblers, yet still demands utmost respect as an alpine mountain area.
The walk begins at Ogwen Cottage, which began life in 1815 as a toll house on the London-to-Holyhead postal route. It later became a mountain training school, an outdoor activity centre and a base for the Ogwen Mountain Rescue service. Today it's owned by the National Trust and run as a ranger base, giving people advice and helping visitors discover the area.
Parking is limited so at times it may be necessary to use one of the lay-bys at the foot of Tryfan, just a few hundred yards along the A5 in the direction of Capel Curig. Thankfully there are footpaths either side of the road, and unlike the small car park at Ogwen Cottage, the lay-bys are free-of-charge.
The walk in
The walk up to the lake is a relatively low-level hike (about a 100m ascent) on laid stone slabs. The footbridge crossing the rushing mountain stream is an early highlight. Paths head off in different directions but follow the main path for the lake, even when it appears to veer off course! As you near Llyn Idwal the path levels off and the true majesty of this glaciated col and lake lies before you.
There are shingle beaches here which make a great spot for an early snack, not to mention a worthy pause to take in the views. To your left you may see climbers on a smooth rock-face. This area is known as the Idwal Slabs and is one of the most popular rock climbing spots in Snowdonia. Straight ahead of you is a gap in the cliffs called Devil's Kitchen, a popular route onto the Glyder massif. It's difficult to spot from the lake. To the right is Y Garn and to the left, above Idwal Slabs, the granite bulk of Glyder Fawr.
As this is now a circular walk around the lake, you have a choice which way to go. We'll describe a clockwise walk, heading to the left of the lake first.
The Idwal Slabs
The huge, smooth slabs of rock that the line the Gribin Ridge's northern flank is one of the most popular rock climbing spots in Snowdonia, if not the UK.
Almost certainly you will encounter climbers on the Idwal Slabs. Walk to the left of the lake and, once on the far side, ignore the right turning for now, which is the circular path around the lake, and keep straight on. This path heads up to the Devil's Kitchen, but we're only going a few yards further on, where it's worth pausing to admire the climbers' work on the slabs.
With names including 'Hope' and 'Suicide Groove' there are at least 26 routes of varying difficulty on these rocks alone. Cwm Idwal as a whole boasts around 40 routes, many of which the climbing fraternity describe as 'easy'. Down by the lake and looking up, you'll think they look anything but!
Retrace your steps and turn left to follow the path around the lake shore. A little further on you will cross a stream using a series of stepping stones. The stream is shallow here, just before it enters the lake, so even if it's in spate it's not difficult to cross (but heed the note about ice later on).
Completing the circle
The obvious path now works its way around the shores of Llyn Idwal. Ignore a left turn shortly after the stepping stones, as this is another route up to Devil's Kitchen. Follow the path round, with ever-changing views as you go, until the reach the shingle beaches again.
With the clean mountain air filling your lungs, now's the time to head back down the initial section of the path, back to Ogwen Cottage. It's not a difficult walk, but the scenery makes it exhilarating!
Put your feet up
There's nothing better than some good food after an afternoon walk. If you're heading west along the A5, in the direction of Bangor, pop into Fitzpatrick's Cafe in Bethesda High Street. If the weather's kind, there's a fabulous garden at the back overlooking the river. Check out the cool motorbikes on display, too!
In the opposite direction, you can't go wrong with Moel Siabod Cafe, which opens until 6pm on a Sunday (8pm in summer) and serves great food and drink at reasonable prices. Sink into a sofa and enjoy the warmth from a wood-burning stove.
Ah! This is what Sundays are made for!
Watch out for ice...
Finally, a word of caution. Cwm Idwal is a cauldron of steep cliffs facing north/north-east. This means that once it freezes here, it tends to stay frozen for much longer than most other places as the low winter sun doesn't reach the ground.
If you're heading out in winter, choose your day carefully and have a Plan B if you're uncomfortable walking in icy conditions. Even though the walk is relatively flat, walking on ice is no fun if you're not properly equipped (which means wearing ice or snow grips).
Make a stay of it
Cosy cottage Blaen y Nant sits in the stunning Nant Francon Valley, very close to Cwm Idwal and the impressive peaks of Tryfan and Pen yr Ole Wen. A brilliant base for walkers, you'll love soaking in the hot tub after a hard day's hiking.
Sympathetically coverted, Tai Pont Twr is an old school house in the village Bethesda, a short drive from Ogwen Cottage. Sleeping 6 guests, highlights include a cosy sitting room complete with log burner and a raised, decked garden - both great spots to relax.
Located in Capel Curig, Tanrallt Too is a homely stone-built cottage at the river's edge. Sleeping up to 8 guests there's a pub nearby and you can walk into the hills from your front door too.
Images courtesy: Crown copyright Visit Wales (2014).