‘Some people miss the carvery and some of the anti-hunting posse objected to the new name ... but overall, it has been a massive hit with the regulars,” says Ann Maher, landlady of the Huntsman in Brockenhurst. What once was the Rose & Crown, a traditional pub with a stuck-in-the-1960s vibe, reopened in March after a whopping (almost) £1m makeover. Out with the dated red carpets, in with trendy hexagonal tiling, colourful mismatched chairs and a wood-fired pizza oven.
I arrive on a damp spring evening, glad to get off the packed commuter train. It’s a short stroll from the station to what looks like an average pub from the outside. Inside, though, it’s bright and enticing with décor the right side of trying too hard.
Cheerful assistant manager Jack whisks me through to the courtyard, where most of the 13 bedrooms – all named after game animals – are in a converted stable block (there are four rooms above the pub, too). Mine, Goose, is in tasteful muted tones, with a huge bed and plenty of thoughtful touches, from properly comfy bathrobes to posh teabags.
The bar and restaurant are buzzing when I wander back in for dinner with my boyfriend. “It’s got a kind of steampunk feel,” he muses, checking out the design. Inventive use of copper piping, reclaimed timber panelling, corrugated iron, statement bare filament bulbs and the odd metal antique do add an industrial edge, but it’s cosy at the same time.
In Shoreditch or Brooklyn this would be a hipster honeypot. Here, in the New Forest, the clientele are a relaxed, unpretentious bunch – mixed ages and not a topiary beard in sight.
It’s a big place – 140 covers in the bar and restaurant – but cleverly arranged, with raised banquettes and hidden tables, to give an intimate feel. Bigger still is the garden, where attention to detail continues: high tables with scaffolding for legs plus seating in summer houses with trees growing up through the tables, twinkling lanterns and an open fire for huddling around.
Besides pizza, steak is the star of the menu (cooked in the Josper charcoal oven). The choice of nine cuts includes a 35oz “Bull’s Head”, a côte de boeuf from the Cambrian mountains (which I’m assured merited the £28.95 price tag), and an 8oz rump for £16.95.
The pizzas (from £7.95) are as good as you’ll get this side of Italy, the cocktails are reasonably priced (espresso martini £7.50) and I’d guess the Sunday roasts wouldn’t disappoint. Another tick for catering for all markets – from friends wanting a local ale and a burger, to those celebrating a special occasion, or families on a day out.
A coffee shop serves artisan blends and cakes by day and is hired out for parties by night. Behind it I stumble across another nice touch – a private room with a skittle alley and a long, wooden dining table. It’s hard to believe it’s owned by Marston’s – which counts Pitcher & Piano in its portfolio – under its Revere brand.
Next morning, after a breakfast that lives up to expectations with pastries, cereals and juices plus a cooked option included in the room rate (eggs, avocado, mushrooms and sourdough was a hit), we set out to explore.
Though the pub is on a main road, it’s a great base for some of the best walking in the New Forest. To the left is Roydon Woods. We stroll through the trees, coo at the Thelwell-style ponies and browse the farm shop. Cycling and horse riding can also be organised.
I imagine that on warm summer evenings the Huntsman will be heaving. Whether the staff can cope with the inevitable influx remains to be seen – but I’d wager they will. Ann assures me the wood-fired oven can produce five pizzas in four minutes, and they’ll have 10 chefs to cope with demand. In an area where accommodation and food can be on the staid side, this revamped pub adds a definite element of fun. Carvery seekers, I’m afraid, will have to head elsewhere.
Accommodation was provided by the Huntsman of Brockenhurst, Lyndhurst Road, Brockenhurst, 01590 522 225, doubles from £120 B&B, thehuntsmanofbrokenhurst.com
Ask a local
Ben Hazell, manager, New Forest Cycle Experience, cyclex.co.uk
Cycling
It takes about an hour to cycle to Beaulieu, a great family day trip. Visit the National Motor Museum, house and gardens – and try to spot deer and ponies on the way.
Food and drink
Bongusta cafe in Brockenhurst does great baguettes. The owner’s friendly, the food is fresh and it’s £3 for a meal deal – you can’t argue with that. For afternoon tea, head to Rhinefield House, a lovely country mansion hotel with gorgeous grounds.
See
Started in 1921, the New Forest Show will take place this year from 26-28 July. There’s local farm produce to buy and loads of entertainment, from equestrian shows to wellie throwing to a tractor tug-of-war.
Comments (…)
Sign in or create your Guardian account to join the discussion