Why?
Because winter is better in mid-Wales. After a ripe autumn as the playground for hikers and beachgoers, the gorgeous hills and coast around Machynlleth are quieter. Come for morning mist in the valleys, interesting shopping, waterbirds arrowing across marshes and pints by the fire.
What to do
First, some background. Machynlleth hosted the inaugural Welsh parliament in 1404 — the warrior-prince Owain Glyndwr chose it because the River Dyfi marked the boundary between north and south Wales. Well, that and because there was no English castle to kick up a fuss. A museum in a medieval hall on the site tells his tale (free; canolfanglyndwr.org).
Today, “Mach” is celebrated for being the arty, community-spirited town that in 2008 fought off Tesco to preserve its independent shops. Highlights of my potter around the main streets included vintage curios in the Emporium (20 Heol Maengwyn) and second-hand books in Coch-y-Bonddu Books (anglebooks. com), both fine hunting grounds for a one-off gift.
The art — temporary exhibits and a collection including works by Augustus John and Sir Kyffin Williams — is in MOMA Machynlleth (free; moma.machynlleth.org.uk).
Mach’s reputation as Wales’s hippie heartland derives from the Centre for Alternative Technology, three miles north (£8.50; cat.org.uk). A 1973 experiment into alternative living has evolved into an eco-village with inspiring displays on sustainable lifestyles, based on current science. There’s not a dreamcatcher in sight. Given predictions from the recent UN conference on climate change, it has never been more relevant.
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Now see what it’s protecting on the Dyfi estuary, a Unesco biosphere reserve. Until ospreys return to the Cors Dyfi nature reserve in April, when it reopens (£4; montwt.co.uk), opt for the RSPB’s Ynyshir Nature Reserve (£6; rspb.org.uk). Take the 1½-mile Saltmarsh trail and you’ll emerge from frosted woods to an estuary teeming with life: waterbirds such as teal and wigeon in frigid shallows; merlins and hen harriers patrolling the skies.
The rumble of bare mountains opposite is catnip to hardy walkers. You’re taking the most scenic bit of the Glyndwr Way long-distance path. Park in Cemmaes Road, a village six miles east of Machynlleth, join the track by the bridge and head east over whaleback hills — cloud scudding within touching distance, valleys shooting off on either side — to Llanbrynmair, seven miles away.
Catch the T12 bus back on Saturday (lloydscoaches.com) or book ahead on Sunday with Peter’s Taxi (about £17; peterstaxi.co.uk). Congratulations: you’ve earned a pint by the fire at Cemmaes Road’s 19th-century boozer, the Dovey Valley Hotel (doveyvalleyhotel.com).
Where to eat
First choice in Machynlleth is Number Twenty One, a bistro with smiley staff and locally sourced dishes such as stuffed pork belly (mains from £12; booking advised; numbertwenty one.co.uk). Foodies head to Michelin-starred Ynyshir, south of town, for British-Japanese menus from self-confessed “fat-fuelled, meat-obsessed” chef Gareth Ward (£180pp for 20 courses; ynyshir.co.uk). The Friday-night queue along Heol Maengwyn is for one of the UK’s top chippies, Hennighan’s (cod and chips £6; hennighans.co.uk).
Where to stay
The Royston, near Llanbrynmair, is the place to cocoon yourself in style amid wintry hills. The top Welsh hotel in our 2019 Best Places to Stay guide, it has inky wall colours, midcentury sideboards, a terrific honesty bar and squishy sofas by the fire in the lounge. Lovely hosts, too (doubles from £129, B&B; theroystonwales.com). Or go eco-escape: snuggle up with a woodburner in an arty treehouse at Living Room (two nights £379; living-room.co).
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James Stewart was a guest of visitwales.com
