Why?
Tynemouth has got its groove back. Ten miles northeast of Newcastle (a 35-minute ride on the Metro), the gateway to the beaches of Northumberland fell from chic Victorian resort to washed-out seaside town. But these days? Tynemouth market has been revamped, there’s a gourmet fish shack that has had the critics raving, and an arts hub is in the works. There’s also a Saharan swathe of beach and a host of wood-panelled pubs — all topped with a Flake and a dollop of raspberry sauce.
What you do
Start under the Victorian canopy at the railway station: its intricate wrought-iron latticework was restored in 2012. There’s a market here on Saturdays and Sundays that’s more cool than car boot, with screenprints and antiques among the treasures up for grabs. Next, check out Front Street’s independent shops and pubs en route to Marshall’s fish and chip shop, a Tynemouth institution. Jimi Hendrix ate here, according to the blue plaque, though it’s hard to imagine him settling on the wipe-clean green seats for mushy peas and a battered sausage (fish and chips from £7; 33 Front Street).
Cutting an impressive figure on the wind-ravaged clifftop, the crumbling Tynemouth Priory dates back to the 7th century (£5.90; english-heritage.org.uk). The resting place of Malcolm III of Scotland (the real-life killer of Macbeth), it has been visited by apparitions of St Oswin and a steady stream of Danish invaders. Come here during the annual Mouth of the Tyne Festival and you can party among the ruins to a soundtrack supplied by Paloma Faith and Beverley Knight, who headline this year (July 5-8; from £22; mouthofthetynefestival.com).
At the base of the priory, the small, sheltered beach at King Edward’s Bay has shallow water where you can rummage for mussels in glassy rockpools. One bay along, Longsands, as the name suggests, is Tynemouth’s biggest beach, with surfers braving the often icy North Sea to slice up wind-whipped waves. The 1920s seawater lido is closed for renovation, but up the stone steps, the former Toy Museum is set to reopen this winter as an exhibition space for local artists.
For a longer walk, there’s St Mary’s Lighthouse, four miles north on a tidal island in Whitley Bay. A concrete causeway gets you there at low tide, but be careful not to get stuck. Check times at whitleybayonline.com/tides.php and take binoculars for seal-spotting.
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A 20-minute walk south along the headland, North Shields Fish Quay is also seeing a resurgence. It’s still a working port, with fishermen in waist-high waders picking crab on the beach. Fuel up at one of the cafes on Union Quay. Oceans Fish and Chips is run by local fishermen — so you know it’ll be good (mains from £6; oceans-fishandchips.co.uk).
Where you stay
With four-poster beds and a sweeping staircase overlooking Longsands, the 19th-century Tynemouth Grand Hotel lives up to its name (doubles from £99, B&B; grandhoteltynemouth.co.uk). Tynemouth 61 is a Georgian guesthouse on Front Street, serving sea views with its hearty breakfasts (doubles from £79, B&B; no61.co.uk).
Where you eat
Made up of two shipping containers on King Edward’s Beach, Riley’s Fish Shack may look humble, but it’s one of the best restaurants in the northeast. Brave the inevitable wait for paper trays heaped with crispy charred mackerel, garlic potatoes and lashings of salsa verde, which you can eat next to a beachside firepit (mains from £8; rileysfishshack.com).
The River Cafe on the Tyne, at North Shields Fish Quay, has earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand for its locally caught seafood. With three courses starting at £7.95, you’ll be hard pressed to get better value (rivercafeonthetyne.co.uk).
