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EUROPE

Hungary travel guide

When to go, what to do, and why you’ll love it

The Freedom Bridge in Budapest
The Freedom Bridge in Budapest
ALAMY
The Times

When you think of visiting Hungary, a weekend in Budapest is likely what first springs to mind. The city that straddles the broad waters of the Danube deserves its reputation as one of Europe’s finest city-break destinations, with a varied history, architectural wonders and choice of local food and drink in abundance. You’ll certainly live well on a visit here.

Beyond the capital, you can expect attractive cities and pretty towns with cobbled streets and elegant squares. There are the thermal baths, beaches and resorts around Lake Balaton, a vast swoosh of water southwest of Budapest (a combination of the two makes for an unusual city/beach break). There are wineries galore growing grape varieties you might not have heard of but will go home raving about. Expect national parks too — ten in total, home to cave systems, fascinating folklore, wildlife and hiking opportunities. A few days in one will give you all the rural escapism you need.

Happily, Hungary is great value for money and also has a decent public transport system. And, should your Hungarian not be up to snuff, you’ll also find that a lot of people speak English, particularly the younger generations.

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What to do

Every trip should start in Budapest, Hungary’s handsome capital. Split by the Danube, this is a city of two halves, with medieval Buda on one side, and art nouveau Pest on the other. Be sure to spend at least one night in the former wandering between its buzzy ruin bars, found in formerly derelict old buildings. The country’s urban attractions don’t end there — the striking cities of Sopron* and Eger are well worth a day or two of your time.

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The best ruin bars in Budapest

The beaches of Lake Balaton* should make it on to your itinerary, too. There’s more to this inland sea than resorts — a ruined fortress, baroque palaces, a medieval town and rolling farmland among them. The wine region of Badacsony is found on the lake’s northern shore. It’s one of 22 in Hungary, with Tokaj, in the northeast, the most famous. If you don’t have time to travel that far, there are plenty of wineries within easy reach of Budapest and accessible on a guided tour. Taking a wine-tasting cruise* is another popular way to sample some local vintages.

Finally, you can’t come to Hungary and not take advantage of its thermal spas. There are spots to take to the waters all over the country — Budapest and Lake Balaton are the most famous.

Where to stay

If you can imagine a type of accommodation, Hungary probably has it. Its cities are home to stylish boutique guesthouses and big luxury hotels alike. Budapest*, in particular, has seen a hotel boom in recent years — you won’t struggle to find design-conscious digs in the city. The capital also has a good number of spa hotels, as do the resort towns around Lake Balaton, which take advantage of the country’s natural thermal waters.

If you’re heading to one of Hungary’s wine regions, there are some lovely vineyard estates to pick from. Naturally, wine-tasting and mealtimes are a highlight of a stay in these. Here, and in other rural areas, you’ll come across plenty of rustic, family-run B&Bs and guest houses. Quirkier accommodation is also a feature — as in Britain, glamping has become increasingly popular in Hungary and you can unearth a whole host of imaginative places to stay, from treehouses and bubble domes in the forest to yurts and eco-lodges on the plains.

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No matter where you head, you’ll find your money stretches much further than it does at home — Hungary’s an excellent place to think about that room upgrade.

Best hotels in Budapest

Don’t miss

The Great Plain is a place of especial romance. Hungarian cowboys (csikos) have ridden the steppe for hundreds of years, rounding up their distinctive long-horned cattle and shaggy sheep, and are still an important part of its culture. You can see them — and even join in — by spending time in Hortobagy National Park, a world heritage site east of Budapest. You’ll get a good understanding of traditional life on the prairie and see the cowboys put on a show at Mata Stud Farm. Guides here can also take you out to roam the grassland on horseback (or in a carriage, if you have no desire to get in the saddle yourself).

The area’s unique ecosystem is another big draw; go on safari in a Land Rover or take a boat tour along the river*, looking out for the park’s plentiful birdlife, and perhaps beavers and terrapins if you’re lucky. It’s worth staying on for a guided tour after nightfall — this is big-sky country and parts of the park are a dark sky reserve. A meal of traditional Hungarian dishes, accompanied by a gypsy band, at the Hortobagy Inn is a great way to end the day before turning in at a local guesthouse.

Best time to visit

Late spring and early autumn are great times to visit, with warm weather but thinner crowds than in summer. Winter can also be magical — come from mid-November onwards for the Christmas markets in Budapest.

FAQs

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Do I need a visa for Hungary?
You don’t need a visa to travel to Hungary — you can stay in a country that belongs to the Schengen area in Europe (as Hungary does) for up to 90 days in any 180-day period. Make sure you’ve got at least three months left on your passport when you arrive. Travel insurance is also a good idea.

Is Hungary expensive?
Short answer, no. Hungary provides great value for money and you’ll spend less on all aspects of your holiday, from hotels to meals out, than you would in many destinations in western and central Europe. Budapest will likely be the most expensive spot you’ll visit in the country, but even in the capital you’ll get a lot of bang for your buck.

Is there anywhere I should avoid?
The Castle District in Budapest can get very busy during the summer months. You needn’t avoid it altogether but you might prefer to time your visit to miss the heaviest of the crowds — try early morning or in the evening. Some of the resorts along the southern shore of Lake Balaton also get very crowded in summer.

Currency Forint

Take me there

Inspired to visit Budapest but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from British Airways* and Jet2 Holidays*. These are the best tours of Budapest from our trusted partners*.

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