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When it comes to Scotland, most travelers focus on the well-worn tourist spots: Edinburgh, Glasgow, and the Highlands. But on the Eastern coast, just ninety minutes north of Edinburgh, the small seaside city of Dundee makes a compelling case for a one- or two-night addition to your Scottish itinerary.
Located on a sweeping bank where the River Tay flows into the North Sea, Dundee is a curious little town that balances its post-industrial history with a buzzing design scene. The city originally thrived as a center of jute processing, whaling, shipbuilding, and commercial marmalade production—industries which have, needless to say, since waned. Today, as gentrification begins to slowly price young people and artistic types out of Edinburgh and Glasgow, Dundee has become an emerging hub for Scottish creativity.
In 2014, the United Nations designated Dundee as a UNESCO City of Design (the first in the U.K., actually) for its valuable contributions to the fields of video games, textiles, and comic book design. Converted warehouses and contemporary design shops abound, and a £1 billion investment by the city has turned its languishing waterfront into one of Scotland’s most exciting places to be. At the heart of that waterfront redevelopment project is the new V&A Dundee, Scotland’s first design museum and the only V&A Museum outside of London. In addition to traveling exhibitions in partnership with other museums around the world, the new V&A promises permanent Scottish Design Galleries chronicling the country’s rich history of design from the 15th century to today.
Whether you’re a design buff heading up to the new V&A (which opens on September 15), or you’re just curious about what makes Dundee such an intriguing place to visit right now, here is a selection of this seaside city’s can’t-miss spots.
Where to Stay
Taypark House
While there are plenty of chain hotels where you could probably use credit card points to get a room for the night, consider staying at this charming boutique hotel located just outside downtown. Once belonging to a wealthy jute baron, the building is one of the area’s last remaining intact mansion houses. Today, Taypark House has been reimagined for the Instagram age—it has an adorable gin bar, an outdoor garden area, freestanding tubs, and gorgeous views over the River Tay.
Where to Eat
The Newport
Technically located across the river in the small village of Newport, this critically-acclaimed restaurant, art gallery, and pub offers waterfront views of Dundee so extraordinary that they are well worth the 10-minute drive. Come for the Perthshire Rabbit with artichokes and wild leeks—stay for what will very soon be the best place to watch sunset over the new V&A.
Brassica
This new hotspot has no shortage of sex appeal to draw in discerning foodies—including a living wall, house-baked bread and pastries, Laurent Perrier by the glass, a historic space (in the Dundee City Arcades), and a globally-inflected Scottish menu sourced within a 50-mile radius. Get the homemade merguez sausage and duck gizzard cassoulet.
The Tail-End
A contemporary take on the classic UK fish-and-chips shop, this local favorite sources all of their fish directly from the North Sea and, specifically, only from a 50-mile radius of Dundee, ensuring the freshest, most local and sustainable catch possible. If a traditional fish and chips isn’t your jam, consider the breaded cod tacos or the mouthwatering seafood curry.
Where to Drink
Draffens
If it’s some Scottish mixology you’re after, consider seeking out this speakeasy hidden on one of Dundee’s most charming cobblestone lanes, although its lack of website or phone number actually make seeking it out quite challenging. You can find it between 36 and 38 Nethergate—just follow the jazz music downstairs. The craft cocktails with foraged local ingredients are well worth the hunt.
The Speedwell Bar
A nostalgic place, this is an Edwardian pub in its purest, most unspoiled form. There’s an imposing, carved wood, L-shaped bar where expert bartenders pour proper drams of whisky (never, ever, ever call it “Scotch” here), and there is live folk music on most nights. Come here for a taste of Old Dundee. Just take note—while the sign out front says “Speedwell Bar,” any Dundonian worth their weight in salt knows that locals only call it “Mennie’s.”
Where to Shop
Spex Pistols
Truly a destination for eyewear enthusiasts, this quirky little shop purports to have something for “every pocket, personality, and profile.” Because of the cheeky name, there’s a strong connection to the music world as well—it’s apparently the only place The Strokes guitarist Johnny Marr likes to buy his glasses in the U.K.
DCA
Shopping the Dundee Contemporary Arts is an essential part of any visit to Dundee. The heart of the city’s cultural and social scene, it houses contemporary art galleries, two small cinemas, a café, and a print studio as well. Keep an eye out for the gift shop, where you can pick up works from up-and-coming designers before anyone back home has heard of them. And if you’re the kind who enjoys picking up souvenirs in the form of one-of-a-kind jewelry, this is the place to do it.
Hayley Scanlan
After training with Jeremy Scott in Los Angeles and stylist Francesca Burns in London, Dundee native Hayley Scanlan returned home to open her own design business and shop on Dundee’s Perth Road. Her funky-yet-adorable brand is a favorite among Dundee’s well-heeled creative types. The benefit of shopping a small boutique like this, in an emerging design capital? The artist will almost certainly be present to personally guide you through her collection.