To say that something is tenacious means we view it as determined and persistent. When we talk about life in the garden (or the refrigerator), tenacious is the only word that comes even close to conveying the unrelenting drive to survive of every seed, root, bug, egg, or microbe with a DNA strand. After the wonderful chaos of the Thanksgiving weekend, this onion survivalist was found in a plastic container in the back of my fridge. This onion, mutilated, severed, and chilled, exemplifies the battle that gardeners face on a daily basis against weeds, pests, and disease.
To be a successful gardener, one must be as tenacious as this onion. Against countless obstacles, we gardeners must strive to put down roots and provide a rich growing medium for those in our charge. We must also reach upward and outward for energizing sunlight and faith that we can continue. And we must be sure to stay hydrated. If this onion can keep trying, so can we. Happy holidays! Late autumn and early winter often leave gardens looking bare and unsightly. One way to improve both the appearance and the health of your garden is to use winter cover crops. Cover crops can provide a living barrier against the elements, or they can be grown as a green manure, to be cut back before they flower. Cover crops reduce erosion, suppress weeds, and improve soil health. Even before summer crops are harvested and the last, struggling tomato plant has succumbed to frost, you can plant your cover crops. Any rains that come will help speed their growth.
Grass family cover crops Cereal grains, such as rye, wheat, and barley, can also be grown as cover crops. As an added bonus, they help break up compacted soil as their roots grow deeper than your shovel or rototiller will ever go. Then, before they go to seed, these plants are cut off and left to lay where they fall, or where they are needed. Inexpensive and easy to grow, cover crops are a simple investment in your garden’s long term health. They look nice, too! If you want something that's even easier, simply cover your soil with a mulch of wood chips.
Today we will learn about an insect that smells things with its antennae, tastes things with its feet, and has no ears but can hear ultrasound. If all that was not odd enough, they also have a compass in their antennae. Monarch butterflies (Danaus plexippus) are fascinating uber-travelers. And they are struggling in our modern age. Monarch migrations You might think it impossible, but delicate monarch butterflies travel 50 to 100 miles daily when migrating. Researchers recorded one overachiever clocking in with 265 miles in a single day! And it takes four generations to reach their destination. You read that correctly - four generations. While some western variety monarchs have North American overwintering sites, eastern monarch butterflies migrate more than 3,000 miles to get from their winter homes in Mexico to their summer homes elsewhere. Monarch butterflies have also been raised on the International Space Station. I can only imagine what their internal navigational systems had to say about that.
Monarch populations Traditionally, easter monarch butterfly populations have been measured by how many acres of land they cover when they overwinter in Mexico. In 1996-97, they covered more than 18 acres, which translates into approximately 1 billion butterflies. By 2014, that number dropped to only 1.6 acres. In simple terms, this indicates a 96% drop in population. Before jumping to conclusions, it is important that we understand there have not been comparable drops in summer populations, and scientists do not know why. Monarch butterfly feeding and breeding grounds Monarch butterflies lay their eggs on certain types of milkweed because those are the only plants the larval/caterpillar stages can eat. Popular rhetoric blames herbicides for killing these particular types of milkweed, but many regular monarch habitats are flush with milkweed - and there have been no monarchs. There are mixed opinions on why this is and what it means. As monarch numbers dropped, people became worried and started planting milkweed and nectar plants to provide global food and habitat corridors for the lovely monarch butterfly. In less than one year, news agencies announced that monarch populations had risen from 1.6 acres to 2.8 acres as a direct result of these actions. Sounds great, but it is not that simple. More monarch populations are appearing in previously unused areas. Some Monarchs are not migrating at all. Instead, they stay where they are and feed on popular tropical milkweeds that grow year-round. Sounds great, right? Well, it is, and it isn’t. In “normal” eastern monarch cycles, winters are spent in a state called “reproductive diapause” which means the butterflies are not sexually active. Since native milkweed plants go dormant in the winter, everything was in balance. The tropical milkweed (Asclepias curassavica) does not go dormant in winter, so monarchs can stay in the same place year-round and forego the migration. The only problem with this is that continuous feeding has led to the emergence of a microbial parasite, called OE for short, that can weaken significant numbers of an already stressed species. What is a gardener to do? If you would like to help the monarch butterfly on its road to recovery, you can plant milkweed and nectar plants in your yard or on your balcony. Cosmos, marigolds, and zinnias are very easy-to-grow flowers that provide nectar, but you will still need to provide the proper type of milkweed to support monarch caterpillars. When shopping, look for native milkweed plants, not tropical varieties. If you already have tropical milkweed plants, you have two choices: rip them out and replace them, or trim them back 3 or 4 times a year, to interrupt the parasite’s lifecycle. UPDATE (3/6/2016): Due to conservation efforts, the 2015-16 winter count of monarch butterflies reached 10 acres.
UPDATE (11/20/2016): I added milkweed to my garden and now have half a dozen monarch butterfly caterpillars munching away on the leaves and what looks like a few more eggs getting ready to hatch - and all that is on a single plant! UPDATE (1/3/2017): Frost has killed the aboveground portion of my milkweed and there is no sign of Monarch caterpillars or chrysalis. UPDATE (4/13/2019): The milkweed is coming in strong! Soft scale insects are easy to miss as they suck the life out of your plants. Like their more heavily armored cousins, soft scale insects spend their adult lives protected under a dome. The only real difference between armored and soft scales is that the bodies of armored scale insects are not attached to the dome, whereas soft scale insects are firmly attached. Soft scale domes are usually made of a more cottony, waxy, or powdery material, than the hard plating of armored scale. There are other types of scale insects, but we will leave those for another day.
Types of soft scale insects There are hundreds of types of soft scale. These are the most common soft scale insects found in California gardens and landscapes:
Soft scales are so successful that several other insects mimic their appearance. These copycats include certain species of aphids, psyllids, mealybugs, and whitefly nymphs. There is even a fungus, called Diamond scale, that copies this successful arrangement. Soft scale lifecycle Soft scale has one of nature’s stranger life cycles. One thing that makes soft scales so interesting is that they are mobile only as infants. The initial development stage, or instar, has functional legs, whereas the adults are attached to the inside of a shell, where they feed and lay eggs pretty continuously, until the weather gets too cold or the host plant dies. In the photo above, you can see a large number of established hemispherical soft scales. They suck sap from the twigs and leaves of the plant and then excrete a sugary honeydew that ants love. In fact, heavy ant traffic was what notified me of this very subtle, but potentially deadly infestation. As it was, I had to remove several branches. The problem with infestations such as these is that the excreted honeydew provides a perfect growth medium for fungal diseases, such as sooty mold, and bacterial disease. As ants collect the honeydew and move from plant to plant, they can quickly spread disease throughout your garden. Symptoms of soft scale infestation One of the more inconspicuous insects, soft scale can build up a big infestation without anyone noticing. At first, you may simply see what looks like water-stress, leaves may turn yellow and drop earlier than normal, or leaves may die and stay attached. To avoid the use of chemical treatment against soft scale, regularly monitoring woody plants and stripping any visible vermin away from twigs and leaves by hand are your best bet. You can also use a sticky barrier around the trunks of trees and shrubs to prevent the mobile first instars from establishing themselves on your plants and removing the protection provides by ants. Easily recognized by their unusually large size (up to 4”) and horn-shaped tail, tomato hornworms (Manduca quinquemaculata) can strip your tomato plants of foliage and fruit in short order. Distinguished from their tobacco-loving cousins, Manduca sexta, by displaying white V-shaped markings, rather than single slash marks, both varieties are difficult to see until the damage is done. To learn more about the differences between these two agricultural pests, the University of Florida Extension Office has an excellent resource. Hornworm damage The first sign of hornworm infestation is usually stripped leaves and missing smaller stems on tomato plants. Hornworm caterpillars will also eat peppers, potatoes, eggplant and even jimsonweed ~ all members of the nightshade family. They prefer younger, new growth, but they tend to hide under larger leaves. Their bright green coloration provides excellent camouflage. Once they eat their fill of your garden delectables, hornworm caterpillars will return to the soil where they develop a hard-shelled pupal covering. Within their winter chalet, hornworms undergo a complete metamorphosis from worm to moth. In spring, the large (4-5”), heavy-bodied brown Sphinx moth will emerge to lay light green, oval eggs on upper and lower leaf surfaces. These eggs hatch and tiny caterpillars emerge, and the cycle continues. In some cases, a second generation can occur in a single year. So what can you do if you find hornworm damage on your plants?
Handpicking hornworms from your plants is the best defense. They can be dropped in soapy water, tossed in a trash bag or, my favorite, fed to the chickens! Plants should be inspected at least twice a week through summer. If you happen to be lucky enough to discover a hornworm covered with little white packets, do yourself and your garden a favor: place the hornworm in a container covered with hardware cloth and leave it alone. The little white packets are the eggs of predatory braconid wasps. These beneficial wasps are too tiny to cause humans any problems, but they are your friends in the garden. As they hatch, they will feed on the hornworm body, as nature intended. Since hornworms also feed on weeds in the nightshade family, you can reduce hornworm populations by keeping your garden weed free. Also, in the fall, till the soil where susceptible plants were grown to kill pupae and burrowing caterpillars. Green lacewings and lady beetles also prey on eggs and new caterpillars, so keep your garden predator-friendly with water, plants from the Allium family, and little or no pesticide use. Walking my dogs this morning, I was surprised to see a light dusting of frost on neighborhood rooftops. As all gardeners must do, I made a mental note to adjust my garden tasks as the risk of frost increases. Frost, by itself, isn’t necessarily bad for your plants. The real problem is that frost tends to exist in the same conditions that lower a plant’s internal temperature to the point that cell walls break down. If you’ve ever left a crop of tomatoes, melons or zucchini out in the cold, you have probably woken to a dismal scene of brown wilted leaves and mushy fruit.
Farmers and gardeners in the NE and the Midwest don’t even try to grow the more delicate natured plants in the winter, but we Californians have the luxury of at least trying. We can protect our crops by using the USDA Hardiness Map to determine your planting zone (I’m in 9b) and learning when to expect frost to occur. According to the Cornell Cooperative Extension office, “Cool, clear nights with low humidity, often following a cold front, are signs of an impending frost.” UC Davis provides a helpful table that estimates when various areas of California can expect frost in the fall. Keep in mind that these are only educated guesses and that Mother Nature tends to kick our butts whenever we get careless or complacent. If you live outside of California, you can check with your local Cooperative Extension office or Master Gardener office for your first and last frost dates. Armed with this valuable information, you can determine which plants will need protection. You can also follow these helpful tips to reduce the negative impact of lower temperatures:
How do you prepare your garden for winter? Good drainage is crucial to plants, both containerized or in the ground, to avoid things like root rot, fungus gnats and, well, drowning. So, how do you know if you have a drainage problem?
If you see pooling, puddling, or muddy spots, you may have a drainage problem. Water will either be held in the soil or it will go someplace else. Now, soil is pretty amazing. Picture the spaces between grains of sand. Water passes through those spaces easily. Loamy soil has medium-sized spaces that slow water movement a bit. Clay soil is made of really tiny bits that create lots and lots of tiny pockets for water to hang out in. If you have mostly clay soil, poor drainage can be a real threat to plant health. How can you correct a drainage problem? Adding organic material to your soil is the best way to improve drainage. Period. It doesn’t matter what type of soil you have. Adding compost improves soil structure, increases the level and variety of nutrients available to plant roots and, hey, it reduces the amount of stuff in landfills! As long as it isn’t diseased, you can compost just about any plant material and use it to improve your soil’s health and drainage. By adding compost to sandy soil, you provide smaller bits of stuff that help hold water and nutrients in place. Loamy soil is already rock star material, but adding compost just makes it even better. When you add compost to clay soil, you create bigger pockets that allow air and water to move more freely, keeping the soil and your plants healthier. Really big drainage problems can be resolved with swales, ditches, or French drains. Quite simply, you dig a trench that gets progressively deeper as you move away from the problem area. Gravity and surface tension pull the water away and deposit it in areas better able to handle that much water. Rain gardens are another option. One thing to keep in mind when considering drainage is what is in the water that is draining away. When water drains out of or away from your yard or garden, it’s not going out alone. Every drop of that water contains precious nutrients and microbes. When people use fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides or fungicides, those chemicals are also leached away. This nutrient soup is usually dumped into nearby creeks, rivers, lakes or oceans, disrupting the natural cycles of growth that take eons to evolve (and repair). Just sayin’… Asparagus is one of those crops that requires a lot of patience. We eat the immature shoots of new plants that emerge from the roots of the previous year’s growth. To ensure the longevity and production of your asparagus plants, you need to restrain yourself from harvesting new shoots for the first 2 or 3 years to allow for adequate root development. If you can wait, you will be rewarded with 20-30 years of production. That is, of course, unless your plants become infested with the European asparagus aphid! European asparagus aphid description
Native to Eastern Europe and the Mediterranean region, European asparagus aphids (Brachycorynella asparagi) were first seen in the U.S. in 1969. They are now found throughout North America. Similar to the over 4,000 other varieties of aphid, the asparagus aphid is a tiny (1 mm), soft-bodied, powdery greenish-blue or grayish-green, pear-shaped insect with a pair of cornicles at the tail end of the abdomen. You can think of cornicles as tailpipes that spew a waxy substance in retaliation to attack. Some aphid varieties feature chromed-out monster truck cornicles, but the asparagus aphid is far more subtle and inconspicuous. It has short antennae and a relatively long cauda. The cauda is a tail-like appendage used to fling honeydew away from the insect’s body as it is excreted. Ants and aphids Ants are big fans of the honeydew excreted by aphids. So much so that ants will fight off aphid predators, groom aphids, and, I suspect, they might even bring aphids a latte every now and then, to keep them producing. It was the number of ants on my asparagus plants that drew my attention. I planted my asparagus bed last fall using 1-year old crowns. Most of the crowns made it through our nonexistent winter and our scorching summer, but the ants were a clear indication that something was wrong. Closer inspection showed small, shiny black globules, which turned out to be egg clusters. I also noticed flat gray, oval bodies of immature aphids, upright green bodies of wingless adult females, and black winged adult males. The European asparagus aphid life cycle was in full swing in my asparagus patch and I should have noticed it a lot sooner. (That’s what happens when you go to Burning Man for three weeks at the height of the growing and harvesting season!) Aphid controls One of the most common methods of controlling aphids is to use short, powerful bursts of water to displace the bugs from their host. This can work pretty well in most cases and it beats the heck out of using pesticides, which tend to kill off beneficial insects (predators and pollinators) along with the Bad Guys. Unfortunately, asparagus aphids damage your plants in a rather unique way that makes hoses an inadequate treatment. In addition to sucking sap from plant veins, these little buggers inject a toxin that reprograms the way the plant grows! This reprogramming causes the spaces between leaves and twigs ("internodes") to become shorter, creating a tufted appearance called bonsai growth. This increases the number of the aphids’ favorite feeding sites. It can also delay bud break the next spring (which is struggle enough in our winter-less region). New shoots then emerge all at once, thinner and smaller than normal, draining the root system of desperately needed nutrients. So, what’s an asparagus-loving gardener to do?
So, go check on your asparagus plants and let me know what you see! Diatomaceous earth, or DE, isn't really earth at all. DE is actually the sedimentary rock formed by countless fossilized diatoms, a crusty little algae. You can find food grade diatomaceous earth at many garden and feed stores. It can be used to kill pests, dust chickens, or clean your teeth! Diatomaceous earth is very tiny and it has sharp edges. The edges are too small to hurt humans or chickens, but hard-bodied insects breath through their exoskeleton and DE blocks the insects’ breathing holes. Diatomaceous earth can be used as an insecticide against flea beetles, slugs and snails, mites, aphids, earwigs, and thrips, just to name a few. You can dust around your house and garden to reduce the number of crawling insects that may be infesting your house or attacking your garden plants. Many grains that you buy in the grocery store contain small amounts of diatomaceous earth, to prevent insects from eating all the grain before you do. It’s naturally abrasive character makes it an excellent choice as a toothpaste additive and pot scrubber. Chickens love to take dust baths in the stuff, as it helps remove dander, insects, and skin oils. If you decide to use diatomaceous earth in your garden (or your henhouse), be sure to follow the directions on the package. You really should wear a dust mask and gloves. Use it very sparingly.
Do you ever notice tiny black or orange flying bugs emerging from the soil of your houseplants? This could mean you have fungus gnats. Fungus gnats are actually flies that feed on organic matter found in soil, and they can be a real problem when soil is kept moist, because the larvae of these little buggers love to chew on your plants' roots. This can cause stunting and make your houseplants susceptible to other pests and diseases. Overwatering is a common problem for houseplants and the appearance of fungus gnats means it is time to take action.
First, do not overwater. The use of an inexpensive moisture meter (~$10) is a great way to keep your plants healthy, avoid water waste, and make life difficult for your resident fungus gnats. Second, since fungus gnats love to eat composting plant material, keep your houseplants free of dead and dying leaves, stems and flowers. Pesticides are generally considered a bad idea in this case. Finally, you can make your own fungus gnat trap by half-filling a bowl or wide mouthed glass with apple cider vinegar and a few drops of dish soap. Place the container near your houseplants. Adult fungus gnats will be attracted to the smell and drown. This won't eliminate the destructive larvae, but, eventually, you will halt their life cycle. This can also help get rid of fruit flies in the kitchen! To monitor for fungus gnat larvae in your houseplants, simply put a cut piece of potato into the soil for a few days. A simple magnifying glass should help you see if there are fungus gnat larvae present. Replacing the raw potato every few days can go a long way to interrupting the fungus gnat lifecycle. You can also crumble up a mosquito dunk and sprinkle it over the soil.
Nothing exists in isolation. Our skin is covered with a thousand different types of bacteria, with a population close to a trillion. These critters help protect us against pests and diseases. Plants exist in the same way. There are microbes whose very existence relies upon the presence of a single plant variety's stamen. There are other bacteria that allow plant roots to absorb nitrogen.
As with all other living things, these microbes and bacteria are prey to larger, more complex beings. If these predators arrive too soon, or too late, they will starve, as will their predators, and so on. Plant DNA contains a series of instructions on how to create the various parts of the plant and how to accomplish specific processes within the plant. As each plant part is developed, it is subject to external conditions: soil composition, temperature, humidity, sun exposure, rainfall, the presence of pollinators, and countless other variables that we have yet to identify. In the world of gardening and agriculture, phenology models are used to predict the appearance of specific pests and diseases, allowing us to get a head start on protecting our plants. These models are generally temperature-based, since temperatures play such a large role in insect development. One simple way to learn more about your local phenology is to collect the first fall leaf from your yard, or the first appearance of specific pests, and record the date. As years pass, you will see trends and changes as other factors are altered. While most people think of the praying mantis as a relatively docile green insect, these insects can be found in many shades of green and brown, and they are one of the most deadly predators in your garden.
Many gardeners (this one included) have purchased beneficial praying mantis egg cases (ootheca) online with the dream of a friendly hunter to combat aphids, caterpillars, moths, and earwigs. Unfortunately, the praying mantis isn't very discriminating. They will eat whatever they can capture, good or bad. Also, many of the online varieties are actually from other countries. The Chinese Mantid can grow large enough to capture, kill, and eat a hummingbird! The best way to attract native praying mantis to your garden is to provide a welcoming habitat free of pesticides and herbicides. If mantis hatchlings will find that your yard does not have enough food to warrant staying, they soon leave. In addition to being a good addition to your garden, Praying mantis are also said to make interesting pets... UPDATE: On 4/21/16, the egg case came to life! Tiny praying mantes emerged and began devouring pests almost immediately!
Stink bugs can destroy your garden in short order and they smell pretty bad. Stink bug identification Stink bugs are true bugs, which means they are members of Hemiptera. The word Hemiptera comes from the Greek for half-wing. The forewings (hemelytra) are hard and the hindwings are soft. Stink bugs can be recognized easily because of their flattened, boxy, shield-shaped body and tiny scent gland openings near where their shoulder blades would be if they were human. There are hundreds of stink bug species. Here are just a few:
Stink bug damage
There are 250 varieties of stink bugs in the U.S. and 4700 worldwide. They can be brown or green. Stink bugs eat seeds, grain, fruit, vegetables, ornamental plants, legumes, weeds and tree leaves. They can also transmit tomato bacterial spot with their piercing mouthparts. Unfortunately, insecticides are ineffective against stink bugs. Stink bug controls Wasps and flies, such as the tachinid fly (Trichopoda pennipes) and the Trissolcus basalis wasp will parasitize the eggs, but those critters are not always available when you need them. You can also provide habitat for birds, spiders, toads, and other insect-eating critters. The best method of control for stink bugs is to handpick and deposit them in a container of soapy water. No, deficit irrigation doesn't refer to tossing the national budget into the ocean. Instead, it is a method used by growers to increase the amount of sugar in foods such as tomatoes, basil, pomegranates, and peaches. Flavor facts Plants have flavor because they contain sugar and volatile chemicals. Aroma plays a major role, as well, but we will leave that for another day. The volatile chemicals that generate flavor are used by plants as defense mechanisms. The pungent taste of many herbs is a perfect example of strong flavors being used to discourage herbivore and insect feeding. As water levels within a plant are reduced, those flavors get stronger. This is where deficit irrigation comes in. The opposite of dilution When the water supply is significantly reduced, sugar and flavor molecules become concentrated. More water means less sugar and flavor per plant, while less water means more flavor. It's a simple matter of dilution. Potential problems Some crops are bad choices for deficit irrigation. Cucumbers, melons, and other members of the squash family are more likely to turn bitter than better without adequate irrigation. For crops well suited to this practice, there is still a downside. Improperly done, deficit irrigation increases the risk of stunted growth and smaller fruit. Start too early and you end up with fruits and vegetables that are weaker, drier, and not what you were hoping for. In the case of backyard tomatoes, it's a good idea to significantly reduce watering as the fruit begins to turn red. This way, the size is already reached and flavor is in full production.
Deficit irrigation also helps conserve precious water resources. Who doesn't love garlic? Add some melted butter and you can make just about anything taste amazing. What's even better - it's easy to grow! Cousin to onions, shallots, chives, and leeks, garlic is a member of the Allium family. So why talk about garlic in the middle of August? Most of us gardeners are currently dealing with an over abundance of tomatoes, zucchini, and cucumbers, but fall will be here before you know it. Rather than let your valuable garden real estate go fallow, you can chop up plant material, as plants end their productive cycle, and use this valuable resource to prepare your winter crop beds. Lay the material on top or dig it in a few inches. By the time October rolls around, the worms will have created the perfect growing medium for your garlic. How to grow garlic Garlic can be grown in containers, shade gardens, on balconies or windowsills, or in traditional garden rows. As a bulb, it is a resilient plant that can fit into practically any landscape. While you can certainly grow new plants from a garlic purchased at the grocery store, you are better off buying starts from a reputable grower. Grocery store garlic is safe to eat, but it may harbor diseases that can harm future crops for many years. Garlic comes in two basic forms: hardneck and softneck. The softneck variety stores better, but the hardneck variety produces bigger cloves that are easier to peel. When you are ready to plant, simply separate the cloves from a garlic and plant them approximately 6" apart and 1" deep, with the root end down and the pointy end up. That's it! Garlic lore Garlic has been cited as a cure-all and demon-repellant, among other questionable attributes, but science has shown that garlic really does repel aphids, cabbageworms, codling moths, Mexican bean beetles, peach borers, and even slugs and snails. In my book, that makes garlic worthwhile simply as a natural pest and disease inhibitor. Of course, I love to eat garlic, so I would plant it anyway! Harvesting garlic
Unlike onions, whose leaves are a tube, garlic leaves are flat. When the leaves start to turn yellow and fall over, gently remove them from the ground, dust off the dirt, and put them in a shady spot for a couple of weeks. If you feel inspired, you can then try braiding your garlic crop, but I have found that it's a lot harder than it looks! Be sure to save your very best garlic for planting in the following fall. Over time, your garlic crop will be become better acclimated to your microclimate and produce even better harvests! The Oriental fruit fly is an invasive pest that was found near San Francisco during the summer of 2015. The damage done by this pest can be extensive, so any time it makes an appearance, the state and federal government immediately declare war, putting a series of countermeasures in place to eradicate this pest. Most estimates make the Oriental fruit fly as destructive as the Mediterranean fruit fly. Oriental fruit fly identification The Oriental fruit fly (Bactrocera dorsalis) is slightly larger than your average housefly. It tends to be bright yellow with a dark “T” on its abdomen, though other colorations have been seen. The wings are clear, with a dark outer edge. Maggots are slightly less than one-half inch long and yellowish-white. Oriental fruit fly damage Females use a pointed ovipositor to lay eggs under the skin of nearly 500 different host fruits. These crops include apricot, avocado, banana, citrus, fig, guava, loquat, mango, peach, pear, persimmon, pineapple, plum and tomato. When eggs hatch, the larva, or maggots, begin feeding on the fruit, making it inedible. The Oriental fruit fly is a common pest in many parts of the world and it enters the U.S. through produce smuggled into the country.
If you suspect that you have seen an Oriental fruit fly in your garden, please contact the USDA hotline at (202) 720-2791. Visit the Dept. of Agriculture’s quarantine map to see what quarantines, if any, may include your garden! Kaolin clay is an extremely fine form of clay used to create porcelain.
It is also a deadly weapon against many garden pests, especially those that attack apple trees. Apple maggots, apple aphids, two-spotted spider mites, leaf hoppers, pear psylla, oblique banded leaf hoppers, and codling moths are all susceptible to the effects of kaolin clay. Kaolin clay powder creates a barrier between your fruit trees and common pests. Being edible, kaolin clay is nontoxic and can be used in organic gardens and orchards. There is no known danger to mammals or the environment posed by applying kaolin clay to your apple trees. To use kaolin clay on your trees, it is very important to attain total coverage. Every spot that is not protected can be a point of entry for pests and disease. The brand name is Surround WP and it can be applied in liquid form using a sprayer. Applications should be performed at fruit set, generally early June, and sprayed periodically through mid-August. Surprisingly, kaolin clay, while it looks like a film that would block sunlight, actually increases net photosynthesis and helps keep the tree cooler! To learn more about protecting your apple trees, read the UCANR report Apples: Organic Production Guide As a new gardener, I was disappointed to see my containerized tomatoes starting to look more like apple dolls ~ those wrinkled faces made from withered apples. I thought I had given them plenty of water and nutrients, but the fruit looked awful.
When a plant is severely root-bound, it may be necessary to cut the circling roots to encourage outward growth. To do this, use a clean, sharp knife. Cut vertical lines up the side of the root ball in several places. You only need to go in an inch or so. Then tickle the bottom roots outward as you place the plant in new soil.
Be sure to water this traumatized plant well. Before long, these plants will grow new roots to support delicious above-ground growth! Taproots tend to be straight, conical and tapered (think carrot). Lateral roots sprout from the taproot. Many weeds, such as dandelions, have taproots, which is why it is so important to pull them as soon as they are seen. The longer they are in the ground, the longer the taproot can get. Many plants begin with a taproot, right after germination, but most monocots replace the taproot with a fibrous root system.
Growing plants with taproots in containers is usually a bad idea. As soon as the taproot hits the bottom of the container, the plant will be stunted and may die. Most trees do not have a taproot. Pine and other confers, walnut, and hickory are exceptions to this rule. Tomato plants grown from seed will generally develop a taproot, while tomatoes grown from cuttings will not. Cool, huh? Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD) refers to the recent general die-off of honey bees worldwide. The causes of CCD may surprise you. Healthy hives Healthy beehives may contain 10,000 to 60,000 bees, depending on the season and environmental factors. Traditionally, beekeepers expect to lose 20-25% of their bees each year. Bees are, after all, short-lived insects, that generally survive for only 4 or 5 months. Colony collapse disorder has doubled those losses. Mysterious bee deaths Colony collapse disorder is characterized by the mysterious disappearance of entire colonies of honey bees from their hives. Where there are normally visibly dead bees around a hive, bees affected by CCD have simply disappeared. Unlike the rabble rousers who point to specific chemicals (neonicotinoids), corporations (Monsanto) or technologies (cell phone towers), researchers have discovered that CCD is the result of many factors. The truth about bee losses According to Dr. May Berenbaum, scientific spokesperson on Colony Collapse Disorder and head of the University of Illinois Entomology Department, explains that there are several factors leading to colony collapse: • Honey bees are not native to North America. They were brought here from Europe a few centuries ago • As the practice of beekeeping expanded, common bee pathogens and pests, specifically foulbrood and the varroa mite, led to the use of antibiotics, fungicides and miticides that can negatively impact honey bees while losing their efficacy against pests and disease • Honey bees naturally lack many of the immunity and detoxification genes that the rest of us have Honey bees do have the advantage of eating foods that boost the power of the protective genes they do have. Pollen increases the production of proteins that defend against pathogens and metabolizes toxic compounds. Don’t assume that those benefits extend to other species, such as us, because there is no scientific proof to back up all those popular claims. Because there are several causes of colony collapse disorder, there is no single solution.
So what can you do to help honey bees? Plant flowers that honey bees like, avoid using broad spectrum pesticides, use chemicals according to their directions, buy locally produced honey, start beekeeping in your own yard, and stay informed. Over-watering container plants is a surprisingly common mistake. According to the University of California, improper irrigation is the #1 cause of plant problems.
Unfortunately, the signs of too much and not enough look almost identical: yellowing, wilted leaves, stunted growth, and leaf drop are symptoms of both problems. Rather than drowning your plants, allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Don't guess. As critical as water is for good plant health, this is not a time to assume your plants are getting the water you give them. Soil structure can redirect water away from roots in surprising ways. When plants show water stress symptoms, gently dig down next to the root system to ensure the water goes where needed. An inexpensive moisture meter is an excellent investment in your plants' health. You may have recently spotted (or heard) a large metallic green bug buzzing around your yard. Green fruit beetles, or figeater beetles, are large, clumsy, metallic green pests. My dogs and chickens love to chase green fruit beetles, and I am grateful. In the heat of summer, these pests fly in to lay eggs throughout my garden and landscape, taking a toll on my fig harvest. They also feed on apricots, nectarines, plums, grapes, pears, and tomatoes, as well as manure and compost. Generally, figeater beetles (Cotinis mutabilis), do not cause a lot of damage, but they can if enough of them converge on your garden. Green fruit beetle identification
Green fruit beetles (Cotinis mutabilis) are members of the scarab family and easy to identify. They can reach 1-1/4 inch in length and have a shiny green exoskeleton. They also tend to bump into things as they fly. They are often mistaken for green June beetles (Cotinis nitida) and Japanese beetles (Popillia japonica), both of which are mostly found on the East Coast. Green fruit beetle larva, which are called ‘curly backs’ are large, up to 2 inches long, and a dirty white color, with a dark head. They get their name because they move by rolling over onto their back and using the stiff hairs to propel them forward. The larvae feed on mulch, manure, and compost. It is not uncommon to find figeater beetles and figeater beetle body parts nose down in garden soil. This is how they lay their eggs. Green fruit beetle controls Since these pests are attracted to the smell of ripe fruit, harvest frequently. Also, you can plant crops that ripen earlier in the season to avoid feeding green fruit beetles. Personally, I have trained my dogs to catch them and I use a butterfly net to pin them down, then I feed them to my chickens, but you may not have that option. Luckily, it is very easy to build a green fruit beetle trap. Simply mix 1 part water with 1 part grape or peach juice and put it in a one-gallon container. Then, create a funnel out of screen or hardware cloth and insert it into the container. The adult beetles will be attracted to the juice, climb down into the container, and then be unable to figure out how to escape. (I wonder how chickens feel about beetles drowned in juice…) We’ve all seen then flitting about, but there is far more to dragonflies than you might expect. Members of the Odonata order (“toothed ones”), dragonflies are an ancient breed. Over 300 million years ago, their ancestors had a wingspan of nearly THREE FEET!
Starting out as an egg, dragonfly larva molt 6-15 times, over 2-6 years, before gaining the ability to fly. Their huge eyes are made up of over 27,000 optical units and over 80% of their brain function is dedicated to analyzing visual information. (How they manage 4 wings at the same time is beyond me!) Voracious feeders, a dragonfly can eat up to 300 mosquitos and flies each day, but gardeners beware! Dragonflies also eat honey bees. It is up to you to decide if they are a beneficial or a pest! No, this is not a ghoulish new smoothie flavor, but it is an excellent source of natural nitrogen. Nitrogen is the primary nutrient needed by plants and it is highly volatile, which means it disappears quickly.
Rather than inundating your plants with chemicals and nutrients they don’t need, blood meal is an excellent way to keep your plants well fed. Blood meal is collected at slaughter houses and dried. It can be added to container plants, spread on lawns, or added to established plants. You can find blood meal at your local nursery or big box store. Be sure to water thoroughly after applying blood meal and you will probably be astounded at the results. Within just a couple of days, your plants will be stronger, healthier, greener, and more productive. As an added benefit, blood meal repels such pests as raccoons and deer. Have you noticed fine webbing on your tomato plants recently? Are your leaves looking stippled (spotted white or yellow)? If so, you are like the many other gardeners experiencing spider mites in their garden. Spider mites are very tiny. The females are only 1/20” and the males are even smaller! However, as spider mites colonize on a plant, you will see webbing, especially on the underside of the leaves. Spider mites can suck the life juices right out of your favorite heirloom tomato and these little buggers can complete an entire generation in less than a week! Unfortunately, drought-stressed plants are more susceptible to spider mite infestations. One of the most common causes of spider mite infestations is the use of broad spectrum insecticides, which kill off beneficial predators along with the pests. The easiest (and least destructive) way to get rid of spider mites is to move the infested plant to a clear area of the yard and spray it off with the hose. Insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils can also be used, but watch out for applying them on sunny days. I recently learned the hard way that leaves will burn if insecticidal soap is left on the leaves during the heat of the day.
If spraying your plants does not provide adequate control, you can purchase western predatory mites and Phytoseiulus (spider mite predators). Spider mites love dusty conditions, so you can make your yard less hospitable by giving plants an occasional light rinse. |
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